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  1. 2 points
    I had a lot of fun with the ISF at its first trackday. Bottom line: the ISF got down to 1'10.2, which is only a wee bit slower than the FD was at 1'09.9. And I have to remember that the FD was on really good Endless MX72 pads and Advan AD08R tyres at the time, so it isn't really comparing like with like. At the FD's very first trackday, it got down to 1'10.2 as well; but that was on Kumho KU36 tyres, which are many magnitudes better than the ISF's Michelin rubber on a racetrack. So I reckon the ISF is good for a high 9 on road tyres and quite possibly a low 8 with proper tyres and brake pads. My fastest laps were with the driving aids in Sport Mode, which is to say that the traction control is slackened off and allows a little sliding. When I turned it all off, which I only did for one session; I was about a half second slower. But it's interesting to compare the lap traces against the FD's best lap of 1'09 (the FD is the red line): Starting from the left, the ISF is 10km/h up on the FD's top speed, with the ISF clocking 186km/h before braking. The lines then dive under brakes...ISF's braking point is a little bit earlier, but the big Brembos allow better modulation than the FD's brakes, so you can see that I'm bleeding off the brakes a bit better and getting a slightly better corner entry speed. As the line rises again for the run up the hill, it's roughly line ball, but as the line goes down again for Turn 3-5, you can see that the ISF's trace is jagged, as it has to slow more for the corners, and then accelerate out. In comparison, the FD can take that whole section at a more constant speed, hence the red line is smoother as it heads to the second deep braking point. Then the line rises again, for teh run down the hill into the right hand sweeper, and you can see the FD's red line smoothly arc upwards, because the FD can turn into the sweeper with just a brief lift. The ISF needs a longer lift to settle the car, and so you can see the trace dip a little halfway up as the line climbs. Then it's hard on the brakes at the "1.21" point on the chart, which is the Bus Stop hairpin. The FD gets a higher entry speed, while the ISF brakes to a slower entry speed, but then you can see the ISF's brute force as it outaccelerates the FD up to the right hand sweeper on the back straight. As the line climbs to the final peak of the lap, again you can see the traces for both cars dip, as they back off to turn in for the sweeper, but there is a bigger dip for the ISF which needs a touch of brake, whereas the FD makes do with just a lift, with the FD recording a higher mid corner speed. Then finally the lines dive for the last time as the two cars brake for the final hairpin, with...surprisingly the ISF logging a higher mid corner speed...probably due to the slow point and squirt nature of the corner handing the advantage to the ISF, which gets a much better acceleration out from the apex. So overall the analysis isn't a huge shock; the light and nimble, good-tyre shod FD gets a small advantage in midcorner speed in the long corners, but it has a huge advantage in the series of tight corners (which is where it gains most of its advantage). The ISF wins the race out of the corners, but needs to slow more for the entry, and the tighter the corner, the more it sees the FD motor away into the distance. But given that the tyres and brake pads of the ISF are nothing special, I'm a little shocked it's as fast as it is. The tyres are Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 225 at the front and 255 at the back. Exactly the same footprint as the FD, but the Michelins fade quickly on the track and it's hard to coincide the sweet spot of the tyres, with a clean lap with no traffic. I'll upgrade to Advan AD08R when the time comes, and I'll upsize them to 245/275 which fits fine on the stock ISF rims, and should make a huge difference. The ISF brakes were the oem brembo pads I fitted a couple of days before the trackday. They were really good for the first two sessions, with huge, beastly retardation but after that they got a bit overtemped and began to wear out really fast. After 42 laps, the brand new pads got down to 2mm of pad material, and you could even see them getting thinner and thinner with each session :) The brembos are now in the bin, I'll do it right and get Endless MX72. It's a shame, the Brembos had great feel under road conditions. ...and here's where all the brake pads went :) And here's the vid! What's it like to drive? Well, first thing is that there's plenty of accessible power, and the 8spd snaps off aggressive shifts making the whole package feel pretty mighty. In a couple of corners where 2nd and 3rd were both useable, 3rd felt quicker, with enough low down torque to dig the car out of the turn...the top end power can be a bit spiky as it comes in and kicks the tail out, so going a gear higher felt like the better compromise. In terms of balance, it's great...very resistant to understeer, and power oversteer on corner exit is the dominant characteristic. It actually feels like it has more power than it can use, and you have to be quite progressive with feeding it in. And for a big ol' gal, it always hung in gamely and never felt like it would collapse into understeer, and it sure felt nimbler than its 1680kg would suggest, and it sure doesn't feel like a sedan. As for the driving aids, I was a bit slower with them all off, and only ran it this way for one session. There isn't the same feedback as the FD, and rather than ease into a slide smoothly, the ISF tends to transition into oversteer in a bit of a messy spill. So with everything turned off, it could be hard to walk the fine line between sliding just enough, and going way too far with a smoky drift; it was hard to find the middle ground, but maybe I just need more practice. Certainly the traction control is really well judged for track use, it would allow a little power oversteer, and keep the power on for a good drive out of the corners. And you could even feel it straightening up the car, when I'd over-rotated it a little on the ripple strips mid corners. Pretty clever system, I think I'll need a lot more practice before I can better it. Proper brakes and rubber will transform this, I reckon. I'm having a lot of fun with this, this is a damn fine car :)
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    Got some more compartments in today but by popular demand only 1 remains! Grab it before it gets sold!
  4. 1 point
    Same as above. Lexus sent me (2nd owner) a letter.
  5. 1 point
    Usually a silver sticker on the door frame on the driver's side. Should be stamped with a date and Code. Usually you'll get a letter if you haven't had it done or you can chase them up by quoting your VIN at a dealership.
  6. 1 point
    alrighty guys will need to other payment in a week or so feel free to contact me when ever your ready
  7. 1 point
    Passenger. Done without dash removal
  8. 1 point
    It has been said that in some cases manufacturers are replacing the faulty units with the same make and type to mitigate the immediate risk. The ACCC make mention of this in their FAQ's on the Takata recall; https://www.productsafety.gov.au/news/faqs-on-takata-airbag-recalls#some-airbags-are-being-replaced-by-the-same-types-of-airbag-i-m-concerned-about-the-safety-of-my-replacement-airbags-as-i-ve-heard-they-may-degrade-over-time-
  9. 1 point
    Hi guys Finally received the F, about 2 weeks ago. Loving the comfort and that mid ranged note! Fitted tint straight away. LED's internally. Ended up using Precision LED, 6K. Its actually really bright! LED's dim perfect. Also fitted a F sports shift selector. My next venture is exhaust, which I'm almost sold on a Xforce Varex. Air intake? Can you guys recommend a good quality air intake, which works well and is aesthetically appealing? I don't mind spending a little more. Cheers
  10. 1 point
    "MX72 Plus" were about $700 delivered from jessestreeter.com for ISF. They're a good compromise pad; lots and lots of staying power on the track and for street they don't squeal, don't feel "cold" like competition pads often can, and are much lower dust than the stock pads. They're designed for the weekend track warrior that's also dailied during the week. The only downside is price.
  11. 1 point
    Hi All, So wifey and I visit Japan about 3 months ago, and I immediately put Nagoya on our map of travel. It was a purposeful diversion stop off on the way from Tokyo to Kyoto, so it was meant to be. We ended up going to the Toyota Automotive Museum in Nagoya, which is just fantastic for car nutters who like (or don't like cars) in general. The next day, we took a 1.5 hour train ride from Nagoya to Shin-Toyota, where Toyota's global headquarters were. At the meeting point, they had a few cars on display, but not as the museum of course. Our main reason for going to Shin-Toyota was to catch a Toyota bus ride to one of many Toyota's manufacturing plants for a plant tour. We ended up going to a plant assembling our aussie Rav4's, which I thought was quite special (as most of the tourist on our tour slot were Amercian's). Anyway, here's a few pics of all things Lexus! Enjoy!
  12. 1 point
    alrighty guys productions in now just the waiting game
  13. 1 point
    I have to admit the passion of Alfa Romeo tempted me for a drive in their 375kW/600Nm 1585kg saloon, but the legacy of reliability and resale also hang over the marque for me too. They're $143,900 + ORC. I think they will be great buying in ~2 yrs coming off lease dipping well below $100k before the ISF did for the same age...the capped servicing & 150k kms warranty goes a way to allay my concerns. From some angles, particularly rear 3/4 view IS F and Guilia are very similarly looking - apart from the Lexus' 'greek nose' I really like my IF S shape, content that years after my IS F was released that from certain angles the latest Alfa looks similar. Our interiors have dated...but not the body in my view. I'd never make a motoring journo but onto the drive - I had a 30min loop around some b-roads (Sutton Rd near Queanbyan) then back along new strip of Majura Hwy is a great autobahn-like smooth bypass here in Canberra. Along the latter the QV disguises is speed even better than the ISF - wife and I really didn't feel were doing, well...way more than we should! Funny thing I never see IS F on the road in Canberra... saw a black and vermillion (red) on this one test drive. The (N)ormal in the DNA drive mode suspension-wise, felt very similar to my MY12 (D)ynamic hardens up the dampers even more for a harsher ride, but you can elect to push a button and soften the dampers but retain dynamic mode. The sports mode exhaust was unlocked all the time with after-market mod that can keep the bimodal flap open - that familiar bruuup bruuup when changing up like audi S3 etc. I cannot wait until I get the deep catback system for a V8 rumble on my IS F. The QV is very fast, motoring tests talk about some turbo lag, I didn't really notice, sitting behind a car @80km/h on a single lane road and going down 1-2 cogs to over-take, the turbo surge pick-up brings out the Whoop! Whoop! hoon in me when I really nail it - rocket ship more akin to my bike (Suzuki Hayabusa) and perhaps what I miss in the ISF. Of course an IS F fairly flies once it builds past its low-rpm torque deficit (well it feels that way I at least - I think IS F torque curve paints a better picture than how it drives?!) Guilia QV carbon-fibre bonnet & roof are reminders the IS F is carry too much extra weight...it's only 105kg more...IS F's 1690kg just sounds so heavy for small sedan but significantly, like most turbos, the QV's delivery of torque lower in the rev range and there's ultimately more of it - 600Nm all delivered from 2500-5000 rpm - nice! The rear factory diffuser/splitter is fantastic looking! Plenty of headroom - @6ft in the IS F I have to recline the seat slightly more than I normally would and for track days I have adopt an awkward slouch to fit helmet in! Brakes are sensational - a little sensitive to what I'm accustomed to. Wife was complaining I was making her sick, so no testing of ultimate handling - even though I really wasn't push around any corners. In a nutshell, like a new car I got in and drive way from the dealership (after a quick passenger familiarisation ride with sales) it felt foreign and bit plasticy interior, the fuel saver kept cutting the engine out (this can be switch off) and initial impressions were 'oh no, not for us' - but that of course is without any time in it and is prejudiced - but sometimes those first impressions can never be quite shaken - but not this time - toward the end of the drive I really liked the car - still hated the economy shut off, but every thing else hahah or maybe just that wave of torque was very appealing. The biggest concerns I have were the ones existing before I drove the car: resale and market perceptions about Alfa, reliability of the V6 with what is hear 35 20 PSI of boost running through it. For that reason I'd not swap over on lease for new one....but if, in a couple years I'm looking for change from my 'built like a tank" IS F, I could be in the market. I will be watching resale and reliability reports with interest. On the way out of the show-room we walked past a slightly retro-looking convertible, and seeing the Abarth badge on it thinking it will be pretty premium over the likes of MX5 - it was of course at this moment the penny dropped as I recall reading something about a pseudo joint venture between Fiat & Mazda resulting in the Abarth 124 Spider - MX5 chassis with different panels, 1.4 Turbo, slightly changed g/box, 17", Brembos, Bilsteins, uprated swaybars and all pretty much for the same money as MX5 2.0lt GT. We both were really surprised that the Abarth was priced competitively with Mazda - after buying our Jeep Wrangler at the same dealer recently we eyed off a Wrangler with shorty guards, wheel & tyre package and Rubicon bumpers on the showroom floor...and the drive-away price was crazy with the dealer-fitted extras on on it. Here was a Euro sports made in Japan! - the best of both worlds - I said to my wife, drive it you'll love it - I still remember the fun I had in I think was 2nd gen MX5 test circa '98 - of course it was a hair-dresser's car so I didn't buy despite how fun it was to drive - I was young and it was all about Kw and torque and nothin' else...hmm I'm older and wiser now but not much has changed hahahah! Long story short - we love the Spider so much (as long as you leave it in Sports mode), they're not common and I don't think will date in the looks dept like the current MX5 - we're thinking about one!
  14. 1 point
    Excellent news. I will also be attending an F Club event at the farm. I have been there once before back in 2012, it’s very nice. less than 2 week to go, see you there.
  15. 1 point
    Just new in stock out of a low KM wreck 23K kms comes with all shaft etc $2900 last one got sold within weeks upgrade your single legger isf to dual leggers
  16. 1 point
    Super happy with the new rims. Meaty rubber on back makes it look more performance orientated. 275/35 is a great size upgrade for the rear. Never loose traction now. Have my first track day in a few weeks since putting on the new rubber - let you know how I go
  17. 1 point
    It does pop up, but the power never drops anymore, the diff sorts it out without power retardation and brakes being involved. Its honestly night and day, little "squirts" from traffic lights, tight turning, going up hills on angles etc, all used to spin the inside tyre then after a bit the brake would grab and the car would lurch off amidst power drops and sometimes snap oversteer. Now its a split instant (if anything) and no dramas at all, it just gets going. Also, when really getting into it out of a flowing corner, the inside tyre would slip and upset the balance of the car, it felt like the body was rolling, the traction light comes on, power and revs were artificially dropped, then it would sort itself out.. You felt like the car was on edge. Now, it just stays balanced, and powers out. Its much more predictable, faster, and safer, so much better in fact that i cant fathom how it was released from the factory without it. If the car had launched from factory in 2008 with a LSD im sure it would have been received MUCH better by the market and journos, and would have been much more popular instead of the unknown gem it realistically is. I can only imagine how good a proper "OS Giken" centre would be in our diff, which from what i have read is far superior than the mechanical torsen. Someone should buy my old diff, and put the OS into it, that way no downtime without a car!! The power gets put down to the ground almost instantly, much more traction in 99% of situations, but then when you want to be a hooligan its BLOODY AWESOME!! I knew i was going to love going properly sideways again after having LSD cars previously, but am so so happy. Probably the best mod i have done to the car for overall performance and enjoyment.
  18. 1 point
    Any real evidence to back this up? im finding your statement quite amusing considering they simply cant tune to our exact conditions from the other side of the world.... Any dyno sheets performed in australia with the rr racing tune? Sydneys tuning is a little pricey compared to brisbane. My tune was performed way back in 2015 for around the $1400 mark. But in saying that by the time you receive rafi's equipment and if was me id be atleast running it up on the dyno to check your still going to be well over $1000 deep for a generic tune at the end of the day.... I liked how you described sonny's tuning as basic... im still yet to see a dyno sheet from a rr racing tuned car in australia... Has not been done to my knowledge so since youve done all your homework show us some of his work used in australia to back up your statement. In the scenario rafi's tune needs editing to suit our conditions how do you plan on getting it tweaked? sending tunes back and forth isnt really ideal and very time consuming and do you really want to risk anything happening to your engine to save a few bucks?
  19. 1 point
    GaijinISF, that Wald bootlip is unbelievably hot looking.
  20. 1 point
    inside sources suggest its a V8 TT 2 of the 2T motors put together 600hp +
  21. 1 point
    Hey guys, picked mine up in November last year, just getting through some basic mods and still going. Currently got: PPE Headers with Borla Axle Back Exhaust MCA Red Coilovers Advan GT Rims Genuine Wald Diffuser Genuine Wald Bootlip FlowDesigns Side Splitters BaysonR Front Lip Carbon Fibre Steering Wheel In the process of organizing custom cat-back exhaust. 2.5" dual all the way with X-Pipe and Magnaflow Mufflers with Quad Tips. After that will be sourcing some MY11/12 Headlights and that should be most of the mods done. Loving the car every drive and hopefully once exhaust and tune is done I can get back out to the track :)
  22. 1 point
    Holy smokes, this thing is fast. (Many thanks to my good friend Reggie for these epic pics) It's been a month and a bit of ownership, and I did spend the first few weeks being a little intimidated of the car. It seemed to light up the traction control indicator all the time, and when shifting in manual mode, it would change gears with such violence that it would often bark the tyres, and in one notable occasion; spit the tail sideways with sufficient force, that a half turn of opposite lock was required to get it back. It felt heavy and a little wooden, and alternated between feeling like it didn't have enough grip at either end. Looking at the tyres, they *look* big at 19inches, but the actual footprint of 225/255 is actually exactly the same as my wife's bog standard IS250...which notably doesn't have a heavy V8 hanging over the front axle. But the funny thing was; when you got it on a winding road and you were driving properly, then it became a pussycat. Ie, when you're braking into corners and accelerating past the apex, it settled down a lot and the feedback started to really flow through. The traction control could be left totally off without fear and it's especially fast and really rock solid in the 3rd gear and upwards corners. In the tight and nadgety stuff it does feel big, but it still gets stuck into it and I think it's mainly a confidence issue on my behalf, because I'm used to much smaller and lighter cars. So yes, having lots of fun with this and it's got a lot of personality. But one driving issue I had, was dealing with the manual mode shift, which is set the wrong way, requiring a push-forward to change up. Sure, on a winding road it's more natural to keep your hands at 9 and 3, and use the paddles...but if you have a bit of oppy lock on, it seems more natural to reach for the stick rather than wait for the wheel to straighten and then pull the paddle. And without fail...I'd instinctively pull back for an upchange, which is probably as a result of way too many decades playing video games. A DIY solution to swap the gearshift around exists though, and the first step is to remove the side pieces on the centre console trim. You very gently prise the back part upwards... ...and work towards the front. The clips are oriented such that you pull the trim off diagonally backwards. Then you spin off the gearknob, and pop off the centre console trim Unplug the 2 wires for the seat heater and the light for the PRNDL plate, and the centre console trim can be set aside. If you have coffee stains or what have you, that you can't clean off on that plastic plate under the gearlever wigglegate, now is the time to slide it off and give it a good going-over with the plastic dressing of your choice. To get a bit more room to work; remove 2 screws and the ashtray will come off. The wiring connector we need to hack, is that one right there, at the front of the gearshift assembly. Once you unplug the connector, you can see pink and light purple wires at the top...they need to be swapped around. First, you prise this pin lock bar upwards. The wiring pins have these tabs that stick up, and when this pin lock bar is clicked-down in place, the pins are locked in position. So you need to scooch this up by a few mm to unlock it. And now you can juuust about see in this pic...that the metal wiring pins are held in by these plastic locking tabs. What you can't see, is that each tab has a handy little ledge that sticks out. To release them, you get the smallest, 1mm wide screwdriver from your tiny-screwdriver set, and prise the ledge upwards, and this will allow the wiring pin to be wiggled out the back of the connector. And if you're like me...then you'll easily get the first pin out, and then in your impatience, you'll mangle the little ledge on the second pin's locking tab..mangle it to the point where that it ain't gonna come out for no man. ...and that's when retail therapy comes to the rescue. TOM'S Racing has a product which reverses the shift pattern, and after a little paypal action, the EMS Fairy delivers a box to your door. What a time to be alive. It's not really rocket science (and I think I won't be applying those stickers) It's just a male and female version of the stock wiring connectors and if you look closely, you can see that the red and brown wires swap over. Same result as the cheapass DIY version we were trying to do. It just plugs in between the stock plug and the gearshifter and that's it. While I was at it, I also got the splendidly named TOM'S Super Ram II Street High Performance Air Filter It looks to be the same as the R-Magic branded filter I have in the FD, which is made by Pipercross and is a washable dry-foam which needs no oil. In the FD, I reckon it does make it a tiny bit crisper on the throttle, but given that's an oldschool turbo and the ISF is normally aspirated, I doubt there'll be any discernible difference. First we pop off the engine cover to reveal the mess that was hiding underneath. The valve cover breather tubes are held in with spring clips, which have these ears sticking out, and you can just compress them with your fingers and wiggle the hoses off the intake pipe. Then the L-shaped intake pipe between the airbox and throttle body can come off.. Then you undo these clips on the airbox and slide the cover back to swap the fliter elements. The old Toyota-branded one wasn't too dirty. A popular stage-1 mod is to replace the intake pipe with an aftermarket one, which frees up a small handful of hp. BTW that protruding box is like an echo chamber, to amplify the induction noise. But there's just a little hole that leads to the chamber, and the inside of the intake pipe is relatively smooth. So I think I'll be sticking with the stock piece for the sake of the noise; it doesn't look like it impedes the airflow all that much. Last mod for the weekend, is to do something about the rear brakes. The discs look very lipped and the pads are just an mm or so away from the pad indicator. The 2 piston Brembo-made calipers hold the pads in with two pins, and that cross-shaped pad spring. First, you gently tap out the pins with a 6mm drift and a small hammer. The pins have this spring loaded ball thingo at the end, which clicks into this internal groove in the caliper. So once you tap them out of the groove, you can wiggle out the pins by hand. Yeah, those are toast. The pads are Toyota-branded. New pads are Brembo. They are rated to 650C, so should be okay for light trackday use, but reputedly they dust up pretty bad, so I may just keep them as track pads. We'll see. Once I pull out one pad, I use it to lever the caliper piston back. Then I put a new pad on that side as a placeholder, while I lever in the piston on the other side. If you don't put a new, thick pad in there, the piston on the other side will pop out as you push in the opposing piston. Pistons all pushed in, the caliper is unbolted and hung from a hook, so that the hose won't stretch The discs have these M6 threads, so that you can insert some M6 bolts and as you tighten them the discs will push away from the hub. Oh...make sure the handbrake is disengaged before you do this, for reasons which will become self evident. Because once teh disc is off, you can see that the handbrake mechanism is a drum arrangement.... ...that used the inside of the disc as a drum brake surface. The old discs were down to 26.8mm; min thickness is 26mm, so while there's some life left, we might as well swap them out. I actually don't like cross drilled discs as they're a bit more crack prone, and I notice that Lexus has fitted undrilled but slotted discs to the RCF and GSF, so I figure that's good enough for me. The new discs are DBA T2. That thing with the slot is a rubber plug that you swap over from the old discs; removing the plug gives access to the handbrake adjuster mechanism. And then we hit the road to break in the new pads and discs. The objective of this is to 1) bake off the resins from manufacturing that are inside the pad and 2) lay a thin layer of brake pad friction material onto the disc. To do this, you just find an industrial road where you can accelerate to 80 and brake hard down to 10km/h about 15 times in succession (without stopping). And then hit the freeway for about 5-10mins of cooling down, and that's that.
  23. 1 point
    Sorry i thought yours was over 270. 271 or something like that. I think i might have got yours confused with another ISF, as the latest one Sonny posted on his FB page, im sure was 270ish. 270 seems to be the magic number give or take a few kws for an intake, catback, cat exit expansion and tune. Only seen LTuned with alot more due to his headers but he assures me, he is fitting a supercharger next week and is aiming for 350 @ the wheels lol (sitting back with popcorn waiting for his reply haha). Ps if you find bargain performance headers, please let me know.
  24. 1 point
    Hey guys, MIL just picked up her CT200h at Chatswood today. I'm partially to blame for it. Have been quite the advocate for Lexus in the family with my car and all. Anyway, everything is fine, except I had a slightly unpleasant experience at the dealers today. Something that actually made me quite angry, in fact. It's almost 2am, and I'm still quite upset over it, so I need to vent to get this off my chest and hopefully sleep. I don't exactly want to send a formal complaint to Lexus as I don't want the guy losing his job over it, so I'm hoping to just bury this here... So I did not accompany my MIL when she made the purchase or went for the test drive. Everything seemed fine, and from what she and my wife tells me, the service was excellent. Today when picking up the vehicle, there was the usual process of a salesperson inducting you to your car, showing you all the features, and answering whatever question you may have. Now the person assigned is not the person who sold the car. He explains that the original person was off sick that day and he was there as a substitute at late notice - no problems there. He showed many features diligently, however the atmosphere he created wasn't the most pleasant. It felt rushed and I personally detected some impatience. Again, that's no problem. I asked him what the "B" mode for, to which his response was more or less "you don't need to know about it. It just stands for Battery, which your car automatically charges". When asked then why the car has this special mode and a lever specifically selectable to this "B" position to the end user, his response was still evasive. Again, no fuss there - thought I might just ask you guys about it here. So then we were presented with a feedback form, which my wife filled out. She (being the cheeky and upfront person that she is), put down a 9/10 for the first item (which was the quality of the presentation/introduction to the car or whatever), and 10/10 for the rest. 9/10 isn't a bad score. In fact, it is quite good. But what made it not-so-good was this guy taking it personally and kept pushing why we gave them that score. My wife response is simply "well I feel that this is the correct and fair score". So the next 2 minutes was him pressuring my wife to change it to a 10, which he eventually succeeded. I jumped in and said "you know, if you keep pushing, she will probably change it to an 8". Judging by his hostile glare at my remark, I think he did not like that. Without mentioning his impatience, I explained to him that I was unsatisfied with his response on my question. He insisted at that point that the "B" mode doesn't do anything and that the car will automatically set it. I pushed on further to point out that my question was asking what it did and when the user would select it. His response was still "it charges the battery which your car already does" and "the user doesn't need to push that button". Eventually, I explained to him that as a design engineer, I do not make an obviously accessible feature with the intention that the user doesn't touch. I mean, why would you put it there if you don't want the end user having anything to do with it, right? It would be a redundant thing to have, and create unnecessary confusion. Eventually, I just went with something along the lines of "Look, how about I ask it in this way: What the hell happens when I select B? This is what I have been asking time and time again, and all you say is that I don't need to worry about it, which is NOT answering my question! You've basically failed to answer my question and you are trying to palm it off" His response was remarkable, and it was something along the lines of "In that case, I'm sorry. I don't know the answer. This is something that you'll have to ask Lexus." I just lost it in my head. I said very sternly "Excuse me? Where do you think I am right now? I'm at Lexus. You are REPRESENTING LEXUS AT THIS VERY MOMENT and I AM ASKING YOU." Let me get this straight. I'm not asking him to know the product back to front. It's okay not to know everything! I don't know 100% the product I am selling myself either, as I'm not the one who designed every single aspect of the product. It's impossible to know it all sometimes, and that's perfectly OK!! But in that situation, you do NOT sell your customer bull*BLEEP* information. You do NOT try to evade answering their question! You DO offer immediately that you don't know the answer to the question without wasting time trying to pretend you know the question and you DO offer to go and research a suitable answer and get back to the customer! Least to say, you do NOT pressure your customer from filling out a feedback form in an honest manner. Honestly, this one made me want to put down a 5. That's not what "Pursuit of Perfection" means. Although ironically, what he's done is quite the literal form of it. /end rant PS: The business manager was very impressive. Guy's name is Uwe (don't know how to pronounce that), and he demonstrates quite a bit of technical knowledge of the cars quite well. He explained the "B" function (which apparently stood for Brake, not Battery) exceptionally well, and contradicted that first guy quite a bit. I'm glad SOMEONE answered my question. I was pleasantly surprised at the level of knowledge that he displayed, especially for a business manager. I was VERY impressed.
  25. 0 points
    Hi Sydney people, I hope no one has had their ISF stolen recently. Good friend of mine advised me he saw a Black ISF abandoned on Beech road between the roundabout and Campbelltown road (near Costco, Crossroads). Drove past last night and saw the bonet was missing, 2 rear wheels. I have since been told it appears burnt out by another friend (assuming same car as he described the location of where it was).