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Got a few new additions since my last post so just sharing :-) Carbon wrapped door sills, side mirrors and side interior wings near gear selector. Yes there was a few slight air bubbles but since fixed it up :-) Also installed the GROM Vline V2 to override our outdated Satnav setup Installed side skirts, front lip and carbon apron spats Plastidipped rear badges

I decided to email Gates and let them know they have the incorrect belt listed for the IS-F. I got a response within 45 mins saying thanks, yes they have now realised the listing they had for the IS-F was incorrect and are having the online catalogue updated to suit. So other IS-F owners should not encounter the same issue i had.

Double demerits and a long weekend seemed like a good idea to finally do something I'd been putting off since I bought the car, which is to apply the Gyeon Mohs paint coating. I'd done a paint correction on the car when I first got it, but as the Gyeon process takes 3 days (during which you can't move the car), at the time I was too busy driving it to bother. But it's high time I got off my arse to do it. Stage 1 is to give the car a good wash. And after rinsing the car, while it's still wet I clay it down to remove surface contaminants. I don't park it outside much, so it was still reasonably clean from last year's detail, and the claybar didn't pick up all that much. Once the car's dried, I can start on the polishing. And the first stage is the heavy cut. Only put a small amount on the coarse cutting pad (a little like a towel material)...this is enough to do a whole fender. Dab the pad (with the polisher turned off) to distribute the polish around the panel. And then whizz it lightly around on the lowest speed setting, to spread the product in an even haze all over. Once you have good coverage, turn the polisher speed up to max, and slowly move it around the panel in a criss-cross pattern. The polish should almost buff until it's clear, which means that the abrasives are broken down to a fine powder and have done what they need to do. Then buff with a cloth. At this point, it's pretty good. Any swirls are gone and the paint looks nice and deep. In a few spots where I noticed a bit of a scratch, I'd give it a few more goes with the heavy cut to make the scratch less noticeable. But it still has more to give. Next step is the medium cut, which is applied with a foam polishing pad. There's a bit of crusty old polish on the pad from when I did the Hako last, but it all comes off with a stiff brush. Same process to apply as before, and it noticeably does add more gloss. But to get that mile-deep look like the paint is still wet, there is one more polishing step to add that last bit of gloss. This is the fine cut polish, which is applied with a finishing pad, which had smaller holes in the foam than the one I used for the medium cut, and feels smoother to the touch. Again...same process to apply as described above, and it does seem to have knocked the rougher edges off the paint, and it's now quite reflective. Now that the paint correction is done, we can start to apply the Mohs coating. Before we do that, the whole car needs to be sprayed with this stuff. It's like an alcohol, but a bit stronger and it's to remove the oils and lubricants leftover from the polishing stage. This allows the coating to bond better to the paint. It's applied very generously to the car, and then carefully wiped off. There are no more steps before we apply the coating, so it's important to use a new (or at least freshly washed) cloth to wipe it off, as you can't leave any dirty streaks. Do a very small section at a time, so that it doesn't get a chance to fully evaporate and leave a streak. The Gyeon Mohs kit consists of a small glass bottle of the Mohs solution, a foam block, some bits of sueded cloth, and a spraybottle of Q2 Cure (more of which anon) You start by wrapping one of the cloths around the foam block, and dribbling on about 12 drops of the Mohs solution in a line. It goes on like a greasy film, so it's easy to notice if you missed a spot. Just the same, you do a criss-cross pattern to get it nice and even. In the summer heat, it flashes off quite quickly, so I do a small patch at a time (eg half a door or 1/6th of the bonnet), wait 15 seconds and then buff to remove. As with the alcohol-wipe stage, it's super important not to leave any streaks so I use a new cloth and keep checking the paint reflection in case I missed a spot. Any streaks will dry that way. Then you have to walk away and let it sit for 12hrs, before applying the Q2 Cure. It's like a detailer-spray that's meant to be applied every now and then to give the coating some protection and to top it up. Spray it sparingly on a cloth, and wipe it across all the panels, one small section at a time. It can leave milky streaks so as before; wiper on and then use a freshly washed cloth to buff and pick it all up. And then you leave it alone for another 12-24hrs before you can move the car, to allow the whole shebang to cure. Apparently it doesn't fully cure for 2-3 weeks, so the instructions warn you not to wash the car for at least a week. So I think keeping the car dry is probably not a bad idea. The coating is meant to be a hard sealant to protect the paint correction work done underneath, but it also adds a fair bit of reflectiveness. It's meant to last 12mths and is hydrophobic, so rather oddly driving in the rain seems to make the car cleaner. Its water-repellant properties also seem to make dirt less likely to stick, and it's a lot easier to wash and keep clean. I ran a water hose over one of the suede cloths I used to apply the coating, and yeah it seems water repellant; you can run a hose over it, and the water all runs off and the cloth comes out dry. Pretty happy with how it turned out.

Just an FYI, PPE got back to me a few mins ago. They are now complete, ceramic coated and they are preparing them for shipping now.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Y9AyUvk4Pw6y30A2rFPZY4cOhWesRKK4 I burnt to an DVD-R DL (Dual Layer.) Works a treat so far (1 day) in my Is350 2012 EDIT: See my post 5 more down this page for single DVD with OZ only maps. Hit thanks if it is ok 🙂

Hello everybody, purchased a 2012 GS350 F sport, best car I have ever owned.

Hi all, Recently sold my trusty IS250 and thanks to the crazy used car market atm I got the same as what I paid for it 6 years ago. Anyway, was always going to get another Lexus but it had to have more power than the old 2.5L 4GR-FSE so I grabbed one with a couple of extra cylinders. Very happy with the decision.

We purchased our first Lexus last November. RCF 2014 model. We have owned BMWs for the last 20 years but not anymore. We became weary of the repair costs, and they are more expensive to maintain as the years roll on. We searched for a performance vehicle from Japan and came up with the RCF. After owning this vehicle for a few months and putting it through its paces on isolated country roads, there is no comparison with BMW in performance and finish. Having four wheel steering is a winner. The RCF is becoming more affordable as they get older, and with Toyota's reliability you can't go wrong.

Hi all😃 Just thought I should stick my head around the door and say hi to you all. I come from the uk and own a Lexus IS 250 in the uk we call it the SE-L version not sure what you call it over here but no doubt they are very similar. I'm a member of the lexusowners club uk site,you seem to have more info on certain things than the uk does so thought I should join this site too. Will be posting / asking some question so go easy on your pommey cousin.😊 65mike.😊

Hey guys i have my GSF PPE Headers which were ceramic coated for sale. They will suit a RCF alsoThey have only done approximately 3000 kms. They were removed by Lexus of Adelaide professionally and are in excellent condition. Please let me know if you are interested. $2800

Ended up running 2 cycles of 4x steradent tablets + hot water through the washer water bottle. Pumped it back out twice using one of those cheap handheld siphon kits for aquariums. Smell is all gone! A good fix for all those that run into this issue in the future on any car.

Took the new Lexus out to Willowbank Raceway to run it over the 1/4 mile. Best of the night was 13.73 @ 100.67 mph. Hot day (28 degrees Celsius) or 82F and humid. Engine bay heat soak was something of an issue, so that is something to control in future runs. Getting off the line is easy. No burnout, just in sport mode, ABS and VSC disabled, 1,500 on the converter and nail it. A little chirp when I did the 13.7 and best 0-100 km/h time of 5.61. Still learning how best to launch the car. I have done a 5.47 0-100 so I think there is a 13.5 if I get the right conditions. Love the car and it is a gem. 85,000km and one owner. Really impressed with the Dragy app. So very close to the track times, a couple were identical in other runs. Next meeting is the 27th. Uploaded the video. For some reason the sound was not recorded. Car is stock except for a F-Sport intake from the US. Sound is awesome (it's true) 🙂 2012 Lexus IS350 F-Sport * Dragy Test * 1/4 Mile * Willowbank Raceway * 13.7 The runs were; 1: 13.907 @ 101.37 mph 2: 14.113 @ 99.2 mph (Lots of heat soak) 3: 13.730 @ 100.67 mph (After a good 45 minute cool down) 4: 13.965 @ 99.38 mph.

Wow, I bought a disc from that gumtree guy as well many months ago. Good thing I came across this page, so I know never to buy from him if he pops up on Gumtree again Shame people are such rip offs. Its funny, he installed the disc and made sure to show me it was V26, but clearly an edit in the file he has done, per the previous posts An image can be made via DVD decrypter from memory just fyi, but i guess no point if its an edit

dealers will have them or we can order them in for u at lexmania please message us through facebook via our lexmania business page

Congrats on the purchase, they are great cars and even better sleepers as the wider community have no idea when it comes to the ISF. Most probably assume its a 4 cyl lol. Ive had mine for about 5 yrs now and still love driving it as much as i did when i first got it.

My new steed. What a great car to drive. I had been admiring this little beauty for years and now it is mine. Very happy indeed.

Hi, I've had my MY11 2010 for just over 2 years, no major problems. I had a transmission wire loom connector that had a hairline crack in the molding that allowed transmission fluid to electrics that tripped CEL and sent the trans into limp mode. A new genuine part was only around $50 and Lexus fitted it in 30 mins or so. I couldn't see that this was a known issue on forums so just bad luck. Some forums talk of valley plate gasket leaks which is a decent job to get done, no issues with mine. On the US forum I think I saw a few threads on water pump failures (easy fix for a new one as it can be accessed at front of engine without taking cam chain and cam covers off). Again no probs with mine. Inner front tyre wear from soft bushings is a common forum thread, again this can be fixed with after market upgrades or RCF bushings. All forums say ISFs are reliable like most Lexus' of that era, 'bullet proof' is term thrown up for Lexus of that era. Compared say to M3 or C63 that I have read have some known potential engine problems. Then again any piece of machinery requires maintenance to operate to specification, of course the level of engineering or over-engineering will have an impact of tolerance of various parts functioning to spec if there is a lack of maintenance or constant use a the higher end of machinery operating envelope eg track use warrants more frequent maintenance/higher spec consumables. Parts prices can be high from dealers, so shop around on eBay and the usual internet third party sites for cheaper genuine or OEM rated parts. This forum put me onto Amayama for Toyota/Lexus and I already used RockAuto. I am very happy with mine although the previous owner did invest in good modifications - headers, exhaust, ECU remap, suspension, intake, throttle controller. Interior/trim seems to hold up quite well, as with any seats that have decent bolster these get squashed but the leather on mine hasn't scrubbed away. I think it was MY10 onwards that went to mechanical torsen LSD, prior to this it was an electronic 'LSD" that used the rear ABS sensors maybe to brake the spinning wheel. There a probably threads on this and overseas forums with more information too. I am not on Facebook but I have seen reference to material on there which is frequented a lot more than this forum. Goodl luck shopping.

We compared a bunch of files in "v26" DVD that Bballplayer86 brought from the gumtree guy to the files in v22 DVD. There were the same size. Also, Bballplayer86 realised some 3 year old roads in a suburb somewhere were not recognised by his DVD. The gumtree guy updates the content in the version file and sells copies of v22 each year as if it was a new version. If the last DVD Lexus advertises online is v24 then I would think that is the last official DVD.

You're welcome. I also wanted to add some additional information for anyone else looking to do their own install. I made up my own 'T harnesses'. i.e. OEM harness plugs into custom T harness, custom T harness has some wires tapped in the middle, and the other end plugs back into your amp. Makes things 100% reversible with no damage or modification to any OEM wiring. Suitable for someone needing subwoofer signals, front door speaker/woofer signals, remote wire, grounds, constant 12v etc for aftermarket line out converters. Here is the info, again for this particular year range and plug type: Plugs A+B. Standard Toyota 6+10 pin plugs. I bought male ends to plug into amp, and female ends to plug into the factory amplifier wiring (and then connect them together to make your custom harness and tee off whatever signals you need) I didnt need to use plug A, but plug B comes in handy as its a speaker plug and used to Tee off subwoofer signal wires Note: The only reservation I have with a pre-made 'Plug A' , is that the OEM Toyota 12v harness wires appear to be a thicker gauge than the rest of the harnesses for the 12v wires going into the amp. The aftermarket pre-made 'Plug A' 6 pin (where 4 wires are used) would not be to my liking as a 'pass-through' If I had to actually tap into 'Plug A' (which I dont in my setup), I would have either de-pinned the aftermarket harnesses to put replace with a thicker gauge to match OEM, or just buy a 'crimp it yourself' solution for this plug and make one from scratch. The pre-made aftermarket stuff seem to be fine as a pass-through in terms of wiring gauge for plugs B+C (speaker wires). Visually they appear to be the same gauge and copper wires. Male end: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32670180830.html Female end: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1245505321.html Plug C One of many 12 pin plug combinations. Another speaker plug per the above diagram. This one is commonly referred to as the "5+7" plug for Toyota. This harness already had both male and female ends, and a 'Tee off' already done for you into a 3rd plug (which you could cut off). Plugs into amp wiring, and other end into the amp. Good to take front door woofer signals etc. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000897175949.html Plug D Another 12 pin. Mainly data signal based stuff Only real thing to 'tee' off here, is a remote wire (That is, if you dont want to run a fresh one from your fuse box, or use a 'remote turn on' feature from many modern line out converters) I couldnt find anything pre-made, but this is a male and female end, with crimp pins. You can get this from Digikey, Mouser etc. Female side part 1473407-1 . Pins part 1674742-1 Male side, part 1318774-1 . Pins part 1123343-1

I'm 4km,s west of Moruya NSW F##ing sh#tting for weeks, stay safe everyone this fire season is off the chart. I hope this scale never happens again, BIG THANKS TO ALL THE FIRE AND SES AND EVERYONE INVOLVED CHEERS.👍

I've tried to take a few photos at night with the brake lights on/off but my phone camera's a bit crap.The lights look a 100 times better in reality. I've also added a photo of a $10 eBay Lexus door projector light.

Forgot to update here for those who dont have FB or Instagram. Just wanted to share now all is working well. Another use for my Vline. As per my pic, i can now control my exhaust valves through the OEM screen, its a novelty but quite cool. Driven past police a few times and could easily close the valves so it became very quiet but then press 100% moments later and it was loud again. Last thing i want to do is reach for my phone to operate it with police nearby so this setup is working out quite well for me.

Looks awesome John, welcome to the "Carbon Wheel" club lol. On its own it looks great but once positioned and mounted in the car, it looks even better and feels great to drive. I love my blue/red stripe but saw one of his wheels with a yellow stripe that looked unique too but better to keep it simple, dont want a rainbow of stripes on my wheel haha. Take some before and after shots, youll have a laugh when seeing the comparison

Not too far away from going into the fab shop now, couple little bits to go

I know what you're thinking, which is that surely brake-stalling the trans has an element of friction or slippage, like slipping the clutch in a manual, but it's not the same as a neutral drop, and to explain why, you have to see what an auto transmission looks like inside. Here's a trans I had rebuild a while ago; it was an electronic 4spd auto, the sort that was quite common until the early 2000s. The 8, 9 and 10 spd autos we have today are ironically more compact, but the principles are the same, and it's far easier to visualise how it all works with an older style trans like this one. [i The way an auto works is that each gear is like a spinning drum (which you can see several in the pic above). And here's one below: In Neutral, all 4 drums are spinning, and no drive is being sent to the wheels. In the pic above, you can just about see the clutch band wrap around the drum. When you select Drive, what happens is that hydraulic pressure wraps the band tight around the drum, forcing it to stop spinning. This engages gears inside the drum, and 1st gear is now selected. When the trans shifts to second, the hydraulics release the 1st gear band, allowing the 1st gear drum to spin again, and engages the 2nd gear band which stops the 2nd gear drum from spinning, and so on and so forth. But unlike the clutch in a manual, the clutch band in an auto is a frail looking thing, with only a very thin friction lining. It's immersed in a bath of transmission oil, and it engages with hydraulic pressure, rather than the massive clamping force of a manual clutch spring. Here's some clutch bands below, and as you can see they're not terribly robust and are really just strong enough to disengage one gear and select the next. They aren't actually designed to transmit the torque of the engine at all. When you do a neutral drop, you have the 1st gear drum spinning at huuuge rpm (instead of idle rpm like normal when you shift from P to D) and the little clutch band has to arrest it and engage 1st gear. Basically it isn't designed for any of that, and isn't strong enough to absorb the shock from a clutch dump (or neutral drop). And that's why a neutral drop is a very damaging thing to do to an auto trans. So now you're thinking...so what happens when you brake-stall it to 1500rpm? Well now you know that when you're doing a brake-stall launch, the selector is in D, the 1st gear drum is locked in by the clutch band and the trans is good to go. The "slippage" is not inside the trans at all, but in the torque convertor, which looks like this: Best way to understand what it does, is to imagine that the donut-shaped casing is bolted to the flywheel, and spins at engine rpm. Now imagine a shaft from the trans going into the donut, attached to say, a paddlewheel from an old style steamship. Now imagine that the inside surface of the donut is full of vanes, and the whole shebang is filled with custard. As you rev the engine, the donut casing will spin, and the vanes will move the custard, which will eventually move the paddlewheel...and the transmission will now spin, too. Inside the torque convertor the metal parts don't contact each other at all, and it's the custard that transmits the force from outer to inner. Now, the torque convertor is always working with a certain amount of slippage, for example when you're stationary in D...the donut is spinning at idle rpm but the paddlewheel is held stationary by your foot on the brake. This happens all day, everyday. The transmission fluid (it's not actually custard in there 🙂 ) is designed to cope with that. Brake-stalling increases the amount of slippage, but it isn't actually a mechanical slippage or impact; it's basically just the custard/fluid that is being whipped into more of a frenzy than usual. Now, if you brake-stalled it to 1500rpm and held it there for a really long time, then you can imagine that the fluid will start to overheat, and that's not good for it. But a brief brake-stall for a heartbeat as part of a launch is actually far less of a mechanical shock than dropping the clutch in a manual. A neutral drop is actually very similar to a clutch dump in a manual, except that the components taking up all the shock aren't really designed for it.

Gidday fellas, So a read a lot, looked at Youtube videos that were available, spoke to a few knowledgeable people and also my trusty local mechanic. (good mate) Lexus wanted $1600.00 plus GST per housing, which I was serious thinking about doing. Lexus wreckers wanted $440.00 per housing for 2006 - 2007 housings, didn't give this a second thought as I would only end up with old housings again. After all my reading online both here and OS on forums etc, one person said to replace with new Lexus original globes and this will fix the problem. So I brought 2 x new HID globes for $350.00 each from Lexus and fitted them up. Fixed the problem straight away. They are perfect and super bright. I ran the car for 1 hour, not a flicker or fault for either side. So there you go, Lexus housings do not like Phillips low beam globes, I don't care what you think as I put up with this inferior standard lighting for two years and paid $100 dollars for *BLEEP* Phillips after market globes thinking it would help, but no it didn't, so its original all the way for me from now on with anything to do with lighting on this car. The Phillips globes would work for 15 minutes, then flicked off and on, would go out completely on either side at random intervals. Even my local mechanic was a little amazed, yes the cost is hard to justify but it fixed the problem and a lot cheaper than the cost of 2 x new housing.. It is not a ballast issue, ballasts never fail in Oz as our climate is to mild, so consider your globes, and consider Lexus genuine parts on the issue, oh please don't get me wrong, I love a bargain and always go for aftermarket parts, but this is a lesson learnt :) Cheers Grant

I’ve finally got my car booked in next Friday at autowerks with sonny after the headers went on in January. Very interested to see how it preforms after the tune .

Hi All, Thanks LTuned for the advice ... again! I had no problem attaching these couple of photos this morning from my iPhone, but it wasn’t working with the iPad late last night for whatever reason. Have a great day all! Matthew

Come on who bought this car to worry about fuel economy NOT ME, after all it is a sports car. But I average 13 and boot it as much as the other road users let me ( get out of my way) cheers.

There are some pretty fast down hill quarter mile tracks in the US 😂

see attached - note this is the quickest time slip for the day, the 1.8sec 60 foot time netted me a 12.4 funnily enough?! i can post that when i go home if anyone wants to see it

First run I did was 12.3 at 188kmh - 1.86 60 foot track temp was warm too - full tank of juice and a bunch of work *BLEEP* in the boot - ran a few 12.4s after that - the trap speed says it's good for high 11s

I had a lot of fun with the ISF at its first trackday. Bottom line: the ISF got down to 1'10.2, which is only a wee bit slower than the FD was at 1'09.9. And I have to remember that the FD was on really good Endless MX72 pads and Advan AD08R tyres at the time, so it isn't really comparing like with like. At the FD's very first trackday, it got down to 1'10.2 as well; but that was on Kumho KU36 tyres, which are many magnitudes better than the ISF's Michelin rubber on a racetrack. So I reckon the ISF is good for a high 9 on road tyres and quite possibly a low 8 with proper tyres and brake pads. My fastest laps were with the driving aids in Sport Mode, which is to say that the traction control is slackened off and allows a little sliding. When I turned it all off, which I only did for one session; I was about a half second slower. But it's interesting to compare the lap traces against the FD's best lap of 1'09 (the FD is the red line): Starting from the left, the ISF is 10km/h up on the FD's top speed, with the ISF clocking 186km/h before braking. The lines then dive under brakes...ISF's braking point is a little bit earlier, but the big Brembos allow better modulation than the FD's brakes, so you can see that I'm bleeding off the brakes a bit better and getting a slightly better corner entry speed. As the line rises again for the run up the hill, it's roughly line ball, but as the line goes down again for Turn 3-5, you can see that the ISF's trace is jagged, as it has to slow more for the corners, and then accelerate out. In comparison, the FD can take that whole section at a more constant speed, hence the red line is smoother as it heads to the second deep braking point. Then the line rises again, for teh run down the hill into the right hand sweeper, and you can see the FD's red line smoothly arc upwards, because the FD can turn into the sweeper with just a brief lift. The ISF needs a longer lift to settle the car, and so you can see the trace dip a little halfway up as the line climbs. Then it's hard on the brakes at the "1.21" point on the chart, which is the Bus Stop hairpin. The FD gets a higher entry speed, while the ISF brakes to a slower entry speed, but then you can see the ISF's brute force as it outaccelerates the FD up to the right hand sweeper on the back straight. As the line climbs to the final peak of the lap, again you can see the traces for both cars dip, as they back off to turn in for the sweeper, but there is a bigger dip for the ISF which needs a touch of brake, whereas the FD makes do with just a lift, with the FD recording a higher mid corner speed. Then finally the lines dive for the last time as the two cars brake for the final hairpin, with...surprisingly the ISF logging a higher mid corner speed...probably due to the slow point and squirt nature of the corner handing the advantage to the ISF, which gets a much better acceleration out from the apex. So overall the analysis isn't a huge shock; the light and nimble, good-tyre shod FD gets a small advantage in midcorner speed in the long corners, but it has a huge advantage in the series of tight corners (which is where it gains most of its advantage). The ISF wins the race out of the corners, but needs to slow more for the entry, and the tighter the corner, the more it sees the FD motor away into the distance. But given that the tyres and brake pads of the ISF are nothing special, I'm a little shocked it's as fast as it is. The tyres are Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 225 at the front and 255 at the back. Exactly the same footprint as the FD, but the Michelins fade quickly on the track and it's hard to coincide the sweet spot of the tyres, with a clean lap with no traffic. I'll upgrade to Advan AD08R when the time comes, and I'll upsize them to 245/275 which fits fine on the stock ISF rims, and should make a huge difference. The ISF brakes were the oem brembo pads I fitted a couple of days before the trackday. They were really good for the first two sessions, with huge, beastly retardation but after that they got a bit overtemped and began to wear out really fast. After 42 laps, the brand new pads got down to 2mm of pad material, and you could even see them getting thinner and thinner with each session :) The brembos are now in the bin, I'll do it right and get Endless MX72. It's a shame, the Brembos had great feel under road conditions. ...and here's where all the brake pads went :) And here's the vid! What's it like to drive? Well, first thing is that there's plenty of accessible power, and the 8spd snaps off aggressive shifts making the whole package feel pretty mighty. In a couple of corners where 2nd and 3rd were both useable, 3rd felt quicker, with enough low down torque to dig the car out of the turn...the top end power can be a bit spiky as it comes in and kicks the tail out, so going a gear higher felt like the better compromise. In terms of balance, it's great...very resistant to understeer, and power oversteer on corner exit is the dominant characteristic. It actually feels like it has more power than it can use, and you have to be quite progressive with feeding it in. And for a big ol' gal, it always hung in gamely and never felt like it would collapse into understeer, and it sure felt nimbler than its 1680kg would suggest, and it sure doesn't feel like a sedan. As for the driving aids, I was a bit slower with them all off, and only ran it this way for one session. There isn't the same feedback as the FD, and rather than ease into a slide smoothly, the ISF tends to transition into oversteer in a bit of a messy spill. So with everything turned off, it could be hard to walk the fine line between sliding just enough, and going way too far with a smoky drift; it was hard to find the middle ground, but maybe I just need more practice. Certainly the traction control is really well judged for track use, it would allow a little power oversteer, and keep the power on for a good drive out of the corners. And you could even feel it straightening up the car, when I'd over-rotated it a little on the ripple strips mid corners. Pretty clever system, I think I'll need a lot more practice before I can better it. Proper brakes and rubber will transform this, I reckon. I'm having a lot of fun with this, this is a damn fine car :)

theres an unwritten rule about owning a sports car: dont talk about fuel consumption. its like signing upto the gym but complaining about getting sweaty. its part of the package :)

Brake calipers now painted classic Brembo red. Caught the old girl in some nice light this afternoon at my shop!

There is a cheaper way to this madness. Remove the stock headers, cut off the stock cat/converters below the primary oxygen sensor & weld new 200 cell high flow stainless cats. Power difference of around 5kws less at the wheels as compared to headers ( proven in the U.S ) . To drop the sub frame and do this would take around 3 hours. Sikky headers have released a video showing how to install their headers, it is on the ISF usa forum. The work is easier than people think. High flow stainless cats around $180-200 each. But if you are to do this fit a cat back system to reap the benefits. Otherwise cut the flanges off the stock headers & replace them with 3 inch flanges as compared to 2 inch. There is a really good gain just from doing that. ( 13kws atw )

Sorry i thought yours was over 270. 271 or something like that. I think i might have got yours confused with another ISF, as the latest one Sonny posted on his FB page, im sure was 270ish. 270 seems to be the magic number give or take a few kws for an intake, catback, cat exit expansion and tune. Only seen LTuned with alot more due to his headers but he assures me, he is fitting a supercharger next week and is aiming for 350 @ the wheels lol (sitting back with popcorn waiting for his reply haha). Ps if you find bargain performance headers, please let me know.

Bad news... My supplier has informed me that they were only able to get 1 of the compartments in. Toyota has had a manufacturing issue and could not supply the other 3. They estimate that it will take around a month for the rest of the order to come through. If you guys are happy to wait a month then I'll put the order through. If not I'll just cancel... The steering dampers have no issue so no worries there.

Put the order through and I should have the shipment by mid next week. For those you haven't please PM me your details for shipping (for interstate buyers) and your number (for local) to arrange pickup/installation/shipping.

I got a very good quote for 150k service (timing belt) at the new Lexus dealer - Lexus of Macarthur in Campbelltown region. (Who also happens to be toyotta dealer - Clintons Toyota) Not only that their quote was cheaper than any other lexus dealer in sydney region....but also less than lubemobile and other independent mechnics Also, They arranged to pick the car from my location and offered a courtesy vehicle (is200t). Now how cool is that.... For all your future service jobs, i strongly recommend that you ring them up and ask for Micheal.... it doesnt hurt to get a quote for comparison...

If you just want the just the belt done should be $500 if you want seals, water pump, belt $1200 or get your own aftermarket parts and some quotes it depends on car condition and how long you want to keep the car and your own preference. I am a mechanic cheers.PS It is a Toyota motor which are super reliable.

ECU will be shipped out tomorrow via International Express which probably means another week or so. I estimate turn around time to be around 2 and a half weeks to 3 weeks. This is only for the bench flash. OBD options will be available after ECU is sent and returned the first time. I'll post up Dyno results once I receive the ECU.

Gidday, Sorry to hear about the lock fail, and I'm also sorry to see 30 views of your thread and not one reply, not even a word or two of encouragement, not that any encouragement can physically fix your car issue can hey, we are a forum after all and its comforting to know that some people give a *BLEEP* about things. I myself have not had this locking problem, but with more bells n whistles on our cars than a Christmas tree, I'm always holding my breathe for that day that something gives. I like a good Google research to solve any issue, so I'll start with reading about this locking issue and see what comes up. Best of luck and I'm sure it will be something very simple at the end of the day, issues generally are.

Here are a couple of my GS Ltuned in Tasmania. We went for a drive around Tasmania. What a nice place it is.

Hi, It's been about 5 years since I posted my original comment... ;) My GSH450h is still going strong after more than 120,000km. My batteries are fine - never had any problems with it or anything else on the vehicle - gotta love Lexus quality. My fuel economy is practically the same as it was when it was new in 2007 - I still get 700km tank average. It was only very recently that I managed to have the time to make some mods to my car, specifically around the Navigation Lock override and DVD lockout as well as introduce an after market ipod and Hard Disk integration I also installed my own bypass switch for the Nav lock and DVD lock override purpose - if you are interested and you would like me to help you do this change to the car, do let me know. Regs,