timmo1

Hi mate The ECT switch does a few things depending on what spec you car is: when engaged, it hardens the shifts, changes down more readily and holds on to gears longer (ie higher revs) - this is obvioulsy for auto trans cars only. Also, because Soarers have variable assistance steering, it reduces assistance (which makes the steering a bit less dull). Im not sure, but i also think it increase brake assistance (it also seems to do this when moving from Cruise control straight onto the brakes- it assumes that if you havent had the time to disengage CC using the control, then you may be taking evasive action and need extra brake assistance...but not too sure about these points). Perhaps the biggest difference is if your car is equipped with TEMS (Toyota Electronically modulated Suspension)- if it is, then it increases the damper rates and gives a firmer ride/better handling/bumps are better controlled.....I spose thats one good thing about having a car full of electrics: everything can talk to each other...

JzDream: no mines an auto...but it doesnt really worry me as it such a nice box. I think theres a manual R-154 on trademe at the moment i think (i cant search at the moment as im at work and searching on trademe gets blocked :()...You heading down to Taupo for the trackday (check the events board)- would be good to have another Jzz30 owner there

Well, because of the ceramic turbos there isnt much point upgrading the IC (usually you need to in order to raise boost: prevent detonation) unless you upgrade the turbos too. I think the standard boost level is 0.6bar and you can only go to about 1.0 bar if you want your turbos to last: at that boost level the stock cooler is fine. In terms of the airfilter: did i read it right that after removing the stock IC, duct up from that empty space into a pod? It seems like a good idea but be careful of water entry. I have made the well documented BFI for my soarer which doesnt let water in (still uses standard panel filter with the front cut away from the airbox).....If using a pod, make sure to seal it off from the engine bay/hot air otherwise you may actually lose power. Im not sure what you mean by 'turbo spinning backward' noise...people spend a lot of money trying to prevent that....it kills turbos :)....I think a BOV is what you mean: best to talk to the professionals about that (bear in mind you will only hear when you take your foot off the throttle: not in gear changes [im assuming you have an auto soarer]......if you listen really carefully, you can hear the stock valve squeaking/venting back into the intake

Any luck with this? Do you know how they attach? My Soarer doesnt have a front lip but the bumper moulding has a 'quasi' lip built in......can anyone provide a pic of a front lip installed?

JZdream: are those the mags you intend to fit in your profile pic? I was also thinkin of putting gold rims on........Metallic blue or mettallic green with gold rims would look great i reckon.....The main reason for upgrading my wheels is for traction!...pesky 16" wheels start spinning too easliy : yours a manual or auto?

Hello Nz Soarer owners: I was just wondering about other owners in NZ, what part of the country you are from, good/bad places to go for work on 'her', what mods etc........I have just purchased a 91 Jzz30 Limited, Dark green and standard bar a BFI. I intend to high flow the towards the end of the year: has anyone had this done or know a place that can do it?

JZ dream: You mentioned you got a replacement AC unit as the display had heat damage. Mine appears to also have this (ie blothcy black LCD puddle on display making reading the settings difficult).....Is it possible to just replace the LCD screen or is it easier to just replace the whole unit? Are you in Aussie or NZ? (im in NZ) How much was the replacement unit? Thanks