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st87

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Everything posted by st87

  1. Yes. That is precisely my situation and it works well. I think it's working as it should be thanks to the Bluetooth profiles on these things if you look at the icons assigned to these things under Bluetooth settings (sees car as an earpiece and the dongle as an audio device)
  2. Hey guys, any ideas where the PCV valve is located on the second gen IS250s? I've searched google images and found this: The layout just seems inverted on the American model (battery is on the other side). Just wanted to be absolutely sure in case I swap the wrong part out lol. Cheers.
  3. Hi guys, thanks for hearing my rant. Anyway, yes. It's done. I'm out of beers. Damn. At the end of the day, I snapped two of them. Those things are hopelessly brittle. BUT, I found that another one of my plugs (front most, under manifold) was also snapped, and would have been since at LEAST my previous spark plug change 4 years ago. Guess it's just one of those things that you won't really notice until you start doing things yourself. I guess the peace of mind is that those plugs stay in quite well without the assistance of the clip, so I'll just keep it there for the time being. Worse case scenario, I'll be running on 3 cylinders until I get to the nearest mechanic.
  4. Omfg what kind of moron designed this engine layout, seriously??? I've finally swapped the spark plugs. Another clip (again) snapped cuz of the cheap plastic. I've just spent in excess of one hour trying to reinstall this one lousy screw that mounts the intake manifold to the frame near the throttle body. Do they employ child labour over there in Japan or something? Cuz my adult hand can barely fit behind the damn frame, let alone holding a screw steady. Forget about trying to rotate a screw while you're at it. It's a bloody miracle that I haven't lost this screw yet. If I was locked in a room with Stalin, Hitler, and the guy who designed this layout, and I had a gun with two bullets..? Yeah you know who I'd shoot twice.
  5. Unbelievable. Deadset unbe-f-ing-lievable. Here I am trying to learn how to change my spark plugs, and I'm trying to take out my intake manifold, and I come across this f*cker and his twin brother!! Seriously, besides the fact that I can't sleeve my ratchet or spanner across, why in the world is this nut literally caked on as though they applied super glue? I've attacked it with my ratchet, spanner, and even my pipe whench. It's just not going anywhere! Wt big f?! Any ideas on how to take these two nuts off? I'm out of ideas and I'm getting more and more pissed about my car each passing day. The engine layout is just awful to work on!
  6. Ok for now I'm just taping it over with duct tape. Not that it really is making much of a difference. On another note, can someone tell me how f*cked I am? I was trying to change my spark plugs tonight. On the drivers side, middle cylinder, when I was disconnecting the cable that plugs to the ignition coil, the bloody clip that secures the cable to the socket broke off! Now there is nothing that's keeping the connector plugged. It's just shoved in. I took a test drive down to chatswood and back again... Didn't seem to get any misfires.... The cable doesn't seem to be springing out either, but still.... Can these connectors actually be replaced? I noticed that this was the only black one (the others were white, giving me the impression that these were changed before).
  7. Oh... sorry... that I cannot help you with. The thing with my Xperia is that it is the PERFECT size for the cup holder. The width is almost identical with my protective casing, and the length extends exactly to the gear selector when it is at D. I skip tracks simply by swiping left/right. Sure my left hand is leaving the steering wheel, but my eyes don't leave the road for it.
  8. Hi guys, can you check out the attached pic? At the front of the manifold, between the top and bottom half, there appears to be quite a gap. Doesn't look normal, but what do I know... Any thoughts? Also, I am getting P172 and P175 codes for system too rich. Wondering if it be related... Cheers
  9. Dude. This thing. Get it. http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-5526_HA100.html This is the one I'm currently using. It's paired to my Xperia Z3+. Absolutely awesome. The issue I have with other ones (I haven't tried every single one) is the fact that you either need to connect to it via the phone each time, or press the "connect button" on the device itself. With this one, like my previous older Blackberry Bluetooth Stereo Gateway, it automatically connects when powered. Not sure if iPhones perform as well, but with my Xperia, once you turn on bluetooth (when the device was already powered), it will find the device and automatically connect to it. It's also got the NFC tag. Now sure how well it performs, but could be a brilliant idea to stick it somewhere if someone in your family wants to play music from their phone too.
  10. Hey guys, So with much pain, my MIL accidentally scratched her brand new CT200h. Lexus has quoted a whopping $2300 to fix it. Not only that, they won't be able to get to it until end of May. She has approached a third party repairer who has quoted a much fairer price of around $1400. Is there any concern that warranty would be voided? Damage includes a slightly warped fender and bumper with slight scratches which will need a respray. Cheers.
  11. YIKES that's steep. Wasn't too far off from what I paid, I guess. Lexus in chatswood quoted me $950 for a refurb unit. Won't even quote me on just fixing the faulty digitizer.
  12. Ah but yours don't come with the labour :-) For me, I was more or less compelled to spend that much, simply because I needed the supplier to provide the service too lol.
  13. Actually, my led bulbs definitely produced more light than HIDs from what I observed. I even swapped my ryobi HID light with a spare 25w led and it was way brighter. What I mean to say is that the light coming from my projector housing, regardless of HID or LED, is dimmer than stock HIDs coming from other cars on the road. At least from my conversation anyway. Thought something might be wrong with the housing.
  14. Hi, I've noticed this for a while but couldn't confirm this until recently. I've always drooled/look with envy at neighbouring cars and just how bright their lowbeams are, especially when compared with mine. In particular, the new mercs seem to have really wide firing beams that really lights up the road. I thought it was just because of cheapo headlights (I did get them off eBay). I've been trying new headlights here and there, and recently bought two set of 55w x 2 LED headlights - a pair for my 9005 highs, and a pair for my H11 lows. It was up at this stage that I realized just how bright these headlights were, and just how much light was lost in the projector housing. I was coming from a drive back from Wollongong last night and I was overtaking the leading Mazda with highbeams on. As I overtook him, he passed the baton for me to activate my high beams, and even I was shocked at how stupidly bright these lights were. Now both headlights are practically identical - the same brand and power - the only difference is the fittings that I ordered. The final amount of light I get from the projector lens is disappointing to say the least. I'd hazard a guess that it's probably dimmer than a stock set of 35W HID's. It was certainly only a fraction of the light that I was getting from the reflector housing on my highbeams. Is this a normal occurrence, and is there a way to improve the situation?
  15. How'd you go with it? I had the exact same issue. It suddenly died. Turns out the ribbon cable at the digitizer panel was the culprit. You have to replace the entire touch screen. I remember it set me back around $500. Let me know if you need the contact, as I'll need to spend some effort to dig up the information. I think for me, the guys were originally in Melbourne (i.e. the supplier and service), but they were able to ship the part and organize someone in Sydney to install it for me.
  16. No problem at all, fzrashid. Glad it helped. Yes, the light output isn't exactly the best as some others may have pointed out, but it's the only model that I risked in terms of it being able to fit =)
  17. Hi there, Not sure if I'm reading you correctly... What do the corresponding test results mean? Is this test result a descending order of lifespan?
  18. Those are bloody expensive, mate! But I guess if they are of trusted quality to you, then it's worth every penny. I've only used mine for a few weeks; fingers crossed they won't break down. Having said that, I just took a look at the measurements… 90.5mm - 34mm leaves you 56mm sticking out from where the fitting is… not sure if this is exactly something that will fit inside the housing. As I noted in the original post, 4cm was kind of close to pushing it already. If you do end up getting one, do post back the results as it will definitely be helpful to everyone. I should also mention that mine doesn't have a ballast/controller, so there is no need for drilling the access panel (for those who haven't drilled already and want to keep it that way). As far as I've seen, that controller is purely circuitry to control the fan. I could be wrong. As for T10s, that's something I've constantly been changing. I'm still looking for the "best one". Best as in a fair trade-off between lifespan and brightness. I've had the maximum of 7W/bulb before. They sure are bright, but they didn't last too long. It's fan cooled? I didn't realise this. I looked at the posting again and there was no mention of any fan. It's definitely attached to a heatsink, with quite a number of slots to increase surface area for better dissipation. As far as I'm aware, the information on the listing does not list any fans… I also did not notice any sound at all coming from them. I've seen some other ones that explicitly mention a fan in their detailed explanation on how they deal with heat. Since you're changing from halogens, I might also point out that some of them come with an external ballast, and some don't. For someone like me, this isn't so critical, as I've already drilled a nasty hole on my access panel. But for you, since I'm guessing that you haven't drilled anything, I would point out that there is this difference in case it's important to you. The one I've listed does not have a ballast. Everything goes INSIDE the housing, and the panel closes completely. I don't have any pictures of the installation itself, but I did stop to take one photo. The attached photo shows a side-by-side comparison between the new LED and my existing 55W aftermarket HID after a minute of warm up time to reach the operating luminosity. You can see that the flare on the 55W LED is a bit stronger than the LED, but hey, the LED is less than half the power. I also like how it just goes straight to the maximum brightness unlike HIDs. I'd say take a look at the 36W LED model if you want that brightness, but again, I cannot guarantee that it will definitely fit. Hope this helps.
  19. Hi guys, I recently upgraded my low beams to LED. Just thought I might share my experience in case anyone else is sitting on the fence as I was. One of the major concerns I had was how much room I actually have in the housing, when considering the heat sinks that these things usually have attached to them. I got the following one in my car: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NIGHTEYE-50W-H11-LED-Headlight-Kit-Bulbs-Pair-8000lm-6500K-White-Replacement-/282116460588?hash=item41af73902c:g:o80AAOSwIgNXwT1Y It fits quite comfortably - just looking at the dimensions, around 4cm is sticking out, but I can still close the access panel of the housing. I wouldn't risk anything larger, but the slightly more powerful 36W model from the same brand *might* fit as well…. For 25W, it's actually quite good. It's only slightly dimmer than my 55W HIDs (I installed one to visually compare side-by-side). Of course, I can't help but wonder if the 36W model will be much better (it's actually $2 cheaper for some reason). One of the things I can now enjoy is to stick my headlights on auto. The reason why I never did this before was in case I came across a series of tunnels. It's okay for HIDs to turn on and off, but it's not good for HIDs to turn off and on. Something about the salt inside not crystallising before the arc strikes again apparently leading to a shorter lifespan. Also, there seems to be a chronic problem with my car (not sure if it's like that on yours as well). There appears to be a great deal of "leakage" in the headlights. The issue is not specific to these LED bulbs; it'll happen no matter what bulb I put in. So if you look at the headlight housing with the low beams on, you see quite a bit of light coming out in the housing. This means that the light I'm seeing is not reflected forwards, which means the construction of the assembly makes the headlight reflector + projector system to be not as efficient as it could be. When driving next to other cars on the road, I constantly envy how bright their low beams are. Even going with a 55W HID, everyone else's lights just seems to completely flood mine. Anyone else noticing this problem? Anyhow… tl;dr version: this bulb works and fits in our car.
  20. Damn… I wish you told me that earlier lol! Yes, all done yesterday. Price plus labour totalled $500. It's okay I guess…. better than $950 from Lexus from a refurb model.
  21. Lol thanks. Anyway, won't need to do that for now... (fingers crossed)
  22. Unfortunately, this is not a trait that I've developed over the years so far. =) UPDATE: I've done enough additional damage just by removing the vent. Turns out, the other three clips were busted. It should have a mechanism to clip onto something when you flip them down. That edge on the three were gone, hence why they sprung back up immediately. After taken the navi unit out, and removing the face plate with maximum effort, I see how delicate the job is. With nothing to lose, I've tried that repair guide using solder instead of the circuit writer (curiously, I couldn't find my conductive pen until AFTER the fact. Story of my life). Needless to say, I didn't make any positive progress. I decided to call it quits. The quote I received from NaviPlus was $200 for the panel, plus $300 labour for their rep in Sydney. Not a bad price, so I decided to stop risking additional damage while I'm still ahead. While reassembling the unit, I must have done something to the cable for the AUX input - the sound is muffled, almost non-existent, and just... weird. I'll get the guy to let me know when he's taken the unit out so that I can inspect the connections and wiring. I'm not taking that thing out again. Who knows what other mishaps will come. Anyhow, negative nancy aside, I should be able to have it all fixed up by this coming Wednesday, so I'm really happy about that. At least the guy runs a mobile service so I don't need to take time off from work.
  23. Thanks. So pissed off atm. Those 4 vent clips, only the left one pops down. The other three spring back up immediately like a Lil bitch! Can't get the vent out argh!
  24. Thanks. A bunch of Danny's came up when searching members... Unfortunately, none of them have visited the forum for the last 2 years. Any way of contacting him?
  25. Hi guys, Not sure if I should have revived a 2 year old post, so I thought I might create a thread. Does anyone have any experience with a dead-ish touch screen and can advise what I should do? Touch screen suddenly stopped working, now stuck on the "I Agree" screen. From what I know, the touch screen isn't completely dead - if you touch the physical menu button, and you hit almost anywhere, chances are, it will "touch" screen setup. No matter which part of the screen you touch, it will either not respond, or hit that particular location. I think my options are: 1. Buy an aftermarket screen from eBay. Probably the cheapest option but not sure how well they work so I'd appreciate it if someone's done this before and can answer a few questions 2. Go to Lexus for a refurb replacement unit, currently an estimated wait time of 6-8 weeks, for a cost of $950. 3. Go to Ramspeed for the repair. Cost of $800. 4. Contacting a company called NaviPlus. Awaiting quotes. Any other suggestions or advice? Cheers.
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