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Sciflyer

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Everything posted by Sciflyer

  1. Because you cant get the DFE type in the cooler heat range
  2. The Bullet HTV1900 is a Harrop. I know because I had this exact s/c on my V8 Soarer... It is definitely a far better s/c than the centrifugal from RR Racing. shouldnt have to lose port injection because the injector bosses would be integrated into the s/c lower manifold if I was to go this far I’d not be worrying about intercooling and instead would convert to E85 as not only would you maximise gains but E85 runs cooler and gives additional headroom against pinging
  3. 17x10s with R-comps on the rear Obviously look different to the stock 19s on the front (17s arent doable on the front anyway) but they give far more and cheaper options for tyres for track days
  4. PMu HC+ which I think are equivalent to HC800 are great pads capable of track days. Anything less than those in the PMu range aren’t really up to track work, I have a set of B-Specs and while the rears were ok, the fronts were getting too hot after 2 or 3 laps. Given that in my experience the HCs work from cold and have good bite, I should have just bought a set of those and not had to worry about changing pads if I do a track day.....
  5. This is standard for the ISF it seems, it is not a fault. I suspect it may be for fuel economy/emissions reasons, to set the idle rpm as low as possible. I agree, in reality it is too low and a bit annoying but you can overcome it by turning on any source of electrical drain such as headlights/sidelights, window demister, A/C, etc... or put it in Neutral :)
  6. The AUX input is no different to any other source except it is analog - it is still processed the same way, still goes through the head unit EQ and sound processor. The only difference is unlike the digital inputs you have the opportunity to pump a strong signal into it to compensate somewhat for the low gain, which may or may not work... I have run various sources through both the USB and analog inputs and they all suffer from the low gain of the stock system regardless. The difference in audio quality is barely worth worrying about.
  7. My invoices from Lexus Perth say they use Mobil 5w 30...
  8. $8k USD for a messy inefficient centrifugal s/c install running only 3 pounds boost? Yeah no thanks. ill give them the benefit of the doubt and assume it's still early days but when s/c kits for the likes of the Toyota 86 (which runs higher static CR than this engine does) are superior twin screw blowers pushing 3x the boost for the same price, i think there's considerably more development to be done. [edit] For a more relevant comparison, the new Mustang has barely been released in AU and already there is a twin turbo kit in development (which is specific to RHD cars so its not just a US copy) which will be running 10-15psi (98/E85 fuel). Estimates of 450-600rwkw. Similar spec engine to the IS F - 5L V8, 11:1 CR https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=475487125985099&id=266306216903192
  9. Fair enough, obviously the price/exchange rate is a lot worse since I got mine then!
  10. Your car is actually a MY2013, the changeover date was August 2012 :) http://www.goo-net-exchange.com/catalog/LEXUS__IS_F/#8/2012 MY2012 cars (ie, built from Aug.2011 - July 2012) do not have the HDD nav or BT streaming
  11. Mine doesnt, and it is a MY2012....
  12. 2012 cars dont have BT streaming!
  13. Considering the PPEs can be had through Chatswood for around $1600 delivered thats a ridiculous price for labour.
  14. No need unless they are damaged/missing. only consumables are rotors and pads.
  15. I got a complete set of front and rear OEM-spec crossdrilled rotors from GSL Rallysport for $380 delivered Put a set of Project Mu B Spec pads in and the brakes are better than factory plus far less dust, win-win :)
  16. Was speaking to a couple of guys at Lexus when i got my F serviced recently and i commented on the very average reviews of the RCF and mentioned the GSF, one guy said he wouldnt be surprised if Lexus had made some revisions to the 2UR in the GSF as it felt noticeably quicker than the RCF!
  17. For cats to work properly (and get rid of the smell) they need to be as close to the engine as possible, so in your case you would want to bolt them onto the end of the headers, then bolt the rest of he exhaust onto the cats. Presumably you will need to cut the front of the Borla system by the same length as the cats take up in order for everything to line up again...
  18. I can confirm that the cost of ONE front BBS OEM wheel is $7196..... because i had to get one replaced through my insurance....
  19. Hi Jeff yep doing Racewars, i remember your car from that one-day rally at the Plex we did a few years ago :) I fitted the headers, it was a bit of a PITA doing it in my shed as you have to drop the subframe but its done. I was going to pull the diff out myself as it shouldnt be too difficult but i'll have to take it to a diff place to get the crown and pinion fitted and set up properly. Assuming all goes to plan it should give the car noticably more punch off the line which it could do with...
  20. IS350 ratio or any ratio around high 3s/low 4s will be too short for a daily driver, a few guys in teh US have made this swap and most (all?) of them ended up going back to stock as although it was fun for a while the car hits speed cut very early and it apparently causes the box to behave a bit weirdly because of the 40% difference between wheel speed and transmission speed over the stock ratio. I have in my possession a brand new crown wheel and pinion kit from a late model Supra diff which according to my research shoudl fit the IS F torsen centre. The ratio is 3.266:1 which represents about 11% difference over stock, in my experience this should be enough to make a noticeable difference but hopefully will not cause the issues that the IS350 diff causes. I just need time to take the IS F off the road to fit it.... BTW, this is my thread over at CL - http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-f/761841-3-266-diff-crown-and-pinion-fit-isf-diff-or-not.html
  21. thats why you have Encore 24hr roadside assist... just tell them you dont have a spare I never carry a spare around town - never been stranded by a flat in 20+ years of driving On a country trip, yes
  22. ah ok, like i say, there was a bunch of cars including ours that had sat on Carsales slowly dropping in price since the start of the year, i would guess because the list price the last time i saw it had dropped over $10k since i first saw it and they were probably close to losing money on it depending on how good a deal any buyer could strike! I know that my car is also an ex-east car that had been at at least two dealerships and they couldnt sell it, i knew this and got a pretty good price on it! I have also novated it too :)
  23. Nice one. I looked at this car earlier in the year, it appeared faultless aside from some light scratches on the bonnet. I say appeared because the dealers were idiots, they wouldnt let me test drive it unless i made an offer on the car. I dont play those games so i walked away. Ended up getting a 2012 Flame blue one anyway so it all worked out in the end :) In the past couple of months 4 IS Fs on Carsales in WA have found new homes after a bunch of them have sat there for most of the year, hopefully some happy owners out there (me included!) Enjoy it! BTW, to any prospective buyers, the grey one that has only 8000km on the clock already has a new set of back tyres.... thrashed ex-repossession maybe?
  24. Hi there If you have a 2012+ car with the 8.5in front wheels i would go a 255/35 on the front as this will be pretty much identical to the rolling radius of the original factory fitment I have a 2012 car and went with 245/35s but i can see the wheels could easily take another step up in tyre width. On the rear a 265/35 is about as close as you'll get to the RR of the factory fitment even though again i think you could easily run a 275/35
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