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Peterkay last won the day on June 5

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About Peterkay

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    2013 ISF
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  1. The header replacement is a 3 hour job, 4 hours max ! ! ! ! The front sub frame is only dropped down by aprox 6 inches, it does not require removal at all.. $1000.00 including stainless high flow cats would be about right. Watch this video it might open your eyes a little to give a better insight on the job at hand. Hope this helps.
  2. Too easy. Engine Reconditioner spent 3hrs @ 80 an hour with the port work. Time I spent to r & r the inlet manifold 2hrs. Hope this helps.
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  4. Hahahaha i knew this would happen. In the US RR Racing motor sports have done this & found there to be a 6hp difference in favour of headers. They have a race car that they have just simply de-catted & left the stock headers on there. So for those that are looking to save dollars why not. I am sure that after your headers you have fancy cats also
  5. Cut a long story short, no. Had the time to do it last xmas but was lazy, holiday mode. So we cut off the flanges from the stock headers & fitted 3 inch flanges.It was an easy mod with very good gains considering how cheap it was, only $260.00 with an exhaust shop we use. I am still thinking to do it, it is just a matter of making the time to do it & not tying up a hoist in our workshop for too long. The next best thing was porting out the inlet manifold. There were very good gains there, done it 4 weeks ago. This is what we did, same as this link below. We gave the inlet manifold to a reconditioner that we use & he did his work. The trick to our engines is flow flow flow.
  6. There is a cheaper way to this madness. Remove the stock headers, cut off the stock cat/converters below the primary oxygen sensor & weld new 200 cell high flow stainless cats. Power difference of around 5kws less at the wheels as compared to headers ( proven in the U.S ) . To drop the sub frame and do this would take around 3 hours. Sikky headers have released a video showing how to install their headers, it is on the ISF usa forum. The work is easier than people think. High flow stainless cats around $180-200 each. But if you are to do this fit a cat back system to reap the benefits. Otherwise cut the flanges off the stock headers & replace them with 3 inch flanges as compared to 2 inch. There is a really good gain just from doing that. ( 13kws atw )
  7. As 2bling says, how long you`ve had the current one, you must decide how long you are going to keep it if you decide to go that way. And then if you do keep the older one and spend more mouli on it you will need to keep it longer to reep the investment you have spent to get it where you want it. Lots of pros & cons. you do not want to look at it and think........ i wish i had a newer model. Cross your T`s and dot the I`s. As for the exhaust, if you have the old system you only need to modify the flange on the front of the mid section to fit to the headers on the older car. Then when ready do the header flange mod on the newer car and fit your system to it, easy done. You will lose the tune, oh well. keep the intake. Hope this helps to fry your brain more
  8. As for me personally i would do it. When i went through the rim roll just over a year ago i looked at models like yours and went for the 13 model , more so because it is newer & all the little updates it has over the older models. Your exhaust, intake & ECU tune they can all be fitted to the next car you get. As for the flange mod you will have to do it again. My mod was cheap as back then only cost me $240.00, that was the easiest mod spent for a quick 15kw gain. For memory also the dark grey is not available in the 13 model, just the Mercury Grey and the paint on the 13/14 cars is better again. In regards to your bilsteins i drove a few 09 cars and the set up was rock hard so the 13 is a nicer ride with the Sachs struts. Just be sure to find one with much less ks than yours so it feels newer and is worth the swap. I have been recently keeping an eye on the market for a friend who wants a 13 plated one and they are a bit scarce, more so with low ks. Cheers Peter.K
  9. Hey check this out
  10. Hey check this place out as they have nearly all the brands to choose from. And Aussie site too ( Brisbane ) Check out the QFM range DB1845QFM/HPX low dust, quite & heat range up to 550c. You can call QFM also as they are on the Gold Coast. I`m nearly due for fronts on mine so I`ll more than likely go with QFM/HPX and if my rotors can not be scimmed and are screwed will go for DBA42759S | DBA 4000 Series T3 Slotted Brake Rotor
  11. Way to go HOONAGAIN
  12. The latter of the 2 part numbers is specified for the CVT transmissions so why they would price you that one is strange.......maybe someone got their wires crossed ??? As for the trans service kit it is only the pan gasket & filter that is required if you choose to go that way , depends on km done. Otherwise drain plug removed & fluid re-filled, preferably cold, aprox 3.5ltrs
  13. Ha too funny Ebay / Sydney City Parts sell that container for $69.95. The Penrite equivalent sold at Repco for $51.00. Boys it does not harm to replace the the trans oil every service or 2nd service. Cleaner the oil the better. I serviced mine not long ago ( 40,000km service ) and replaced the trans fluid. Will do next service as well. We service a lot of Toyota`s here that use the WS fluid and and most places neglect to change the fluid. Seen various Aurions, Klugers, Hi Lux & so on with 40-60,000km where the fluid is already dark. So for me the cleaner the better. DFH6B-11A NGK spark plug $38.00 each WACF0040 Wesfill cabin filter $24.00 each
  14. 2blig I have had my xforce cat back system ( non varex ) on for nearly a year now & quality is very good, so i think anyway. 5 year warranty also. If you are not sure ring Xforce head office in Sydney & speak to Dean there. Ask him all the questions you like & as for the sound Also no check lights on & we disconnected the battery before we fitted it aslo to be safe & to also help the ECU to do a re-learn. Finally, NO DRONE.
  15. Also check out this chart If you compare our original size tyres it gives you an insight on what tyres are suitable without throwing the speed out too far. In QLD you are allowed 15mm under or over the oem spec tyres overall diameter. Hope this helps