Babalouie

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Babalouie last won the day on August 5

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About Babalouie

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  • Lexus Model*
    IS250
  • Location*
    New South Wales
  1. Suspension Upgrade/modification

    I had Aragosta on my RX-7. Such nice shocks. Double the stock spring rate, but a better more comfortable ride than stock. They're actually made in the Netherlands by the same mob that makes Moton racing shocks, so they have a ton of pedigree and are beautifully made. I'd love to have a set for the ISF but the ISF offerings start close to the top of the range at Type-S and they're $3800 before shipping. Ppl like jessestreeter.com.au usually get trade price and so I wouldn't be surprised if he can sort it out so that the landed cost is $3800, but it is a more expensive option than Kw V3.
  2. Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    "MX72 Plus" were about $700 delivered from jessestreeter.com for ISF. They're a good compromise pad; lots and lots of staying power on the track and for street they don't squeal, don't feel "cold" like competition pads often can, and are much lower dust than the stock pads. They're designed for the weekend track warrior that's also dailied during the week. The only downside is price.
  3. Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    Too late :) MX72s are here :) Oem Brembo pads are fine for say 5 hard laps at a time, but the issue is that Wakefield public practice days can be quite crowded with 15+ cars on the track per session. So as a result you encounter a lot of traffic, and so might get only 1 or 2 clear laps in a session...and they tend to be at the end of a session when the brakes are pretty temp'd up, and you need to have a bit more in reserve. I had the same issue with FD, and only after upgrading to MX72s did I have good brakes and a clear lap at the same time :) I'd imagine EC is so much bigger that the field spreads out a lot more.
  4. isf suspension noise-updated

    They changed the pair in my case
  5. isf suspension noise-updated

    It should be covered under warranty. I've had Lexus replace shocks at about 20k when they were faulty before, but in that case the shocks had a visible oil leak
  6. isf suspension noise-updated

    Find a road where the suspension clunking noise can usually be heard. Drive along it, with your foot touching the brakes a little. Does the noise go away?
  7. RR-Racing Brake Upgrade

    MX72 are good pads, you'll be very happy with them :)
  8. Rr racing vs figs

    It depends entirely on the quality of the bearing used. I've had suspension pillowball bearings wear out in 8000kms, and I've had them last 40,000kms and are still going strong...I have had more luck with japanese bearings than USA ones (even name-branded ones).
  9. Low fuel light, how many remaining km's left

    FWIW I went all the way down to 0km remaining, and managed to get from Wakefield Park to the nearest petrol station in Goulburn, which was 15km away. In theory using the last of the fuel in the tank could suck up some crud, but I've never seen any crud in a petrol tank that was worth worrying about. Unless the car in question was sitting for many years and the inside of the tank actually went rusty
  10. Rr racing vs figs

    The SuperPro kit is a great option, and will be heaps cheaper than the American alternatives! You will need a press to DIY it, but any good suspension shop will be able to do it...and it'll just be 15mins labour more than fitting up the ready-made RR unit. Or...you could DIY it and take the old bushing housing and SuperPro bits to a pro to have them pressed in...they'll probably only charge you $25 and then you bring it home and refit :)
  11. Rr racing vs figs

    I reckon a 3rd option is the FIGS item with the poly bush: http://shopfigs.com/v3/by-vehicle/IS/CAT-LEXUS-2IS-3GS-ISF/G2ISHP-FRLCA-SP3491K-IN-BRKT I like the conical bush on it, it should be more refined than the RR while still providing the same side to side stiffness
  12. Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    I had a lot of fun with the ISF at its first trackday. Bottom line: the ISF got down to 1'10.2, which is only a wee bit slower than the FD was at 1'09.9. And I have to remember that the FD was on really good Endless MX72 pads and Advan AD08R tyres at the time, so it isn't really comparing like with like. At the FD's very first trackday, it got down to 1'10.2 as well; but that was on Kumho KU36 tyres, which are many magnitudes better than the ISF's Michelin rubber on a racetrack. So I reckon the ISF is good for a high 9 on road tyres and quite possibly a low 8 with proper tyres and brake pads. My fastest laps were with the driving aids in Sport Mode, which is to say that the traction control is slackened off and allows a little sliding. When I turned it all off, which I only did for one session; I was about a half second slower. But it's interesting to compare the lap traces against the FD's best lap of 1'09 (the FD is the red line): Starting from the left, the ISF is 10km/h up on the FD's top speed, with the ISF clocking 186km/h before braking. The lines then dive under brakes...ISF's braking point is a little bit earlier, but the big Brembos allow better modulation than the FD's brakes, so you can see that I'm bleeding off the brakes a bit better and getting a slightly better corner entry speed. As the line rises again for the run up the hill, it's roughly line ball, but as the line goes down again for Turn 3-5, you can see that the ISF's trace is jagged, as it has to slow more for the corners, and then accelerate out. In comparison, the FD can take that whole section at a more constant speed, hence the red line is smoother as it heads to the second deep braking point. Then the line rises again, for teh run down the hill into the right hand sweeper, and you can see the FD's red line smoothly arc upwards, because the FD can turn into the sweeper with just a brief lift. The ISF needs a longer lift to settle the car, and so you can see the trace dip a little halfway up as the line climbs. Then it's hard on the brakes at the "1.21" point on the chart, which is the Bus Stop hairpin. The FD gets a higher entry speed, while the ISF brakes to a slower entry speed, but then you can see the ISF's brute force as it outaccelerates the FD up to the right hand sweeper on the back straight. As the line climbs to the final peak of the lap, again you can see the traces for both cars dip, as they back off to turn in for the sweeper, but there is a bigger dip for the ISF which needs a touch of brake, whereas the FD makes do with just a lift, with the FD recording a higher mid corner speed. Then finally the lines dive for the last time as the two cars brake for the final hairpin, with...surprisingly the ISF logging a higher mid corner speed...probably due to the slow point and squirt nature of the corner handing the advantage to the ISF, which gets a much better acceleration out from the apex. So overall the analysis isn't a huge shock; the light and nimble, good-tyre shod FD gets a small advantage in midcorner speed in the long corners, but it has a huge advantage in the series of tight corners (which is where it gains most of its advantage). The ISF wins the race out of the corners, but needs to slow more for the entry, and the tighter the corner, the more it sees the FD motor away into the distance. But given that the tyres and brake pads of the ISF are nothing special, I'm a little shocked it's as fast as it is. The tyres are Michelin Pilot Super Sports, 225 at the front and 255 at the back. Exactly the same footprint as the FD, but the Michelins fade quickly on the track and it's hard to coincide the sweet spot of the tyres, with a clean lap with no traffic. I'll upgrade to Advan AD08R when the time comes, and I'll upsize them to 245/275 which fits fine on the stock ISF rims, and should make a huge difference. The ISF brakes were the oem brembo pads I fitted a couple of days before the trackday. They were really good for the first two sessions, with huge, beastly retardation but after that they got a bit overtemped and began to wear out really fast. After 42 laps, the brand new pads got down to 2mm of pad material, and you could even see them getting thinner and thinner with each session :) The brembos are now in the bin, I'll do it right and get Endless MX72. It's a shame, the Brembos had great feel under road conditions. ...and here's where all the brake pads went :) And here's the vid! What's it like to drive? Well, first thing is that there's plenty of accessible power, and the 8spd snaps off aggressive shifts making the whole package feel pretty mighty. In a couple of corners where 2nd and 3rd were both useable, 3rd felt quicker, with enough low down torque to dig the car out of the turn...the top end power can be a bit spiky as it comes in and kicks the tail out, so going a gear higher felt like the better compromise. In terms of balance, it's great...very resistant to understeer, and power oversteer on corner exit is the dominant characteristic. It actually feels like it has more power than it can use, and you have to be quite progressive with feeding it in. And for a big ol' gal, it always hung in gamely and never felt like it would collapse into understeer, and it sure felt nimbler than its 1680kg would suggest, and it sure doesn't feel like a sedan. As for the driving aids, I was a bit slower with them all off, and only ran it this way for one session. There isn't the same feedback as the FD, and rather than ease into a slide smoothly, the ISF tends to transition into oversteer in a bit of a messy spill. So with everything turned off, it could be hard to walk the fine line between sliding just enough, and going way too far with a smoky drift; it was hard to find the middle ground, but maybe I just need more practice. Certainly the traction control is really well judged for track use, it would allow a little power oversteer, and keep the power on for a good drive out of the corners. And you could even feel it straightening up the car, when I'd over-rotated it a little on the ripple strips mid corners. Pretty clever system, I think I'll need a lot more practice before I can better it. Proper brakes and rubber will transform this, I reckon. I'm having a lot of fun with this, this is a damn fine car :)
  13. How to post videos in a thread

    Hi everyone What's the go for posting vids in a thread? The usual forum code [youtube] [/youtube] doesn't seem to work.
  14. Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    The Toyota IS500 got a bit of love on the weekend For...this! An X-Force dual exhaust, supplied at a very reasonable price by sparesbox.com.au So the first step is to remove the old system... First to be removed is the axleback section, and that starts with dousing all the rubber hangers with spray lubricant. They don't come out easy, as the "mushroom" on the end of the hangers is pretty big. It was easier to remove the hangers from the bodyside as a result. These are the hangers next to the diff. The hangers for the twin mufflers are much harder as you don't have access to spray the front with lube, and there isn't room to get a prybar in there. But I figured if I let the axleback section hang down... ...I can get my hand above the muffler to undo the three bolts that attach the muffler hangers to the chassis. Ever wondered why Lexus are usually pretty heavy? Well it's because they do things like make chunky muffler brackets that are held on by three massive M10 bolts. I'm not sure why they need to be so overbuilt, you could probably support the weight of the whole car from one of them. Axleback section out...you have the space and time to prise out the rubber hangers from next to the diff. The stock mufflers look massive and are heavy, but the choke point of the whole system is probably this squashed oval section that goes under the diff. Next step is to remove the centre section. The trans tunnel has two braces; one is easy to unbolt, but the other has bolts which are behind the plastic undertray But if you undo a few plastic scrivets, you can prise down the undertray enough to reach the bolts easily enough. Then you remove the two O2 sensors. The ISF actually has four; the other two are on the headers. For this, you'll need a Toyota/Lexus O2 sensor removal tool, which I bought off eBay for $80. Because the O2 sensor has a tubular shield around it, you can't get a spanner onto the hex. And a conventional O2 sensor tool is probably too long. And with the O2 sensors out, the centre section can be removed from the car, by supporting the back on a jack, while you unbolt it from the headers. The X-Force is a dual system, with one 2.5in pipe per bank, that merge together in an X. The stock pipes actually start out as also 2.5ins, but they merge into a central resonator, then into that squashed oval bit, before finishing in 2.2in pipes to the mufflers. Now, as to why you need the pipes to meet in an X...I think the Engine Masters boys do a much better job of explaining it than I could :) https://youtu.be/fCio5K0WfHU So the X-Force should be less restrictive on pipe size, but the new exhaust is catless, so the secondary cats are eliminated. This should remove quite a lot of restriction. The car itself still has two cats inside the headers though. And here you see that the headers don't use a conventional gasket; instead there's a crushable ring. The stock exhaust has a recess for the crushring... But the flange on the X-Force does not...I fitted a new oem crushring, and when you tighten it all up, the flanges don't actually meet when the ring is fully crushed. It doesn't leak, so I figure this is how it's meant to be. Fitting up the new exhaust is much quicker then removing the old one. I'd say the whole job took three hours, and 70% of it was getting the old one off. On a quality note...the X-Force system is VERY reasonably priced, and is half or a third of the price of alternatives from the USA (PPE, Borla) or Japan (HKS, ISS Forged). But there are some corners cut for the price. Firstly the gaskets are very flimsy, but given the weird hole to boltspacing ratio, I couldn't find alternatives. So they went on with a lick of Permatex Ultra Copper sealant. This was a little frustrating...whoever welded the resonators together, didn't remove the plastic wrap first. Now the resonators are pressed together and there is no option but to let nature take its course and melt the plastic once we fire her up. There's also lots of nasty paper stickers which take forever to remove. It fits and doesn't leak...but you won't be lying under the car admiring the welding porn. But...refit the O2 sensors, after giving them a couple of twists anti-clockwise (so that the wires are straight when it's done up). And we are done! The only fitment issues to note were very minor: one pipe fouled the diff mount...but when the muffler was bolted up, it pulled the pipe away from it and there's adequate clearance now. Another was that one of the hangers fouled the aero undertray that bridged the floorpan gap where the driveshafts are. But I made a little hole in it, and now they can co-exist. But apart from those minor issues, the X-Force is a decent product, especially for the price. Unusually, it comes in several short sections (7 in total) instead of one big piece like most aftermarket system do; but I suppose this makes it more feasible to ship, and it also makes installation a bit easier as you're not lifting a huge, heavy section in one go. Being able to bolt up the sections one by one, also makes it more forgiving when it comes to fitment, as you have a little bit of wriggle room where each section bolts up. And oh...a bit of a lifehack...you can use a jacking puck for a Porsche 964. That generation of 911 had sill jacking points which were metal holes in the side skirt. There is no way that you can get a trolley jack under there without ruining the side skirt, so you can buy this padded metal puck that fits into a hole in the jacking point. ...and I fits perfectly into a handy-dandy hole in the middle of the crossmember. And the rubber padding means that the jack cup doesn't leave scratches on the crossmember too. Last thing before she comes off the stands, is to fit a new set of pads to the front. We'd fitted new Brembo pads and DBA rotors at the back a few weeks ago, but the front discs were pretty new at 29.5mm thickness (new is 30mm, worn is 28) and the pads were an unknown quantity. With the prospect of trackdays looming, I felt that brembo pads all round was a good idea. To remove the old pads, it's exactly like the rears, and you use a hammer and punch to tap out the pad locating pins Then unbolt this doohickey...which I think isn't for the purposes of retaining the pads in place, I reckon it's more to act as a strut brace for the very long calipers and to give some strength to the unsupported middle of the caliper. I have no idea what the old pads were...they're green but don't look like Project Mu green. By the way, the Brembo pads were sourced from https://www.brakesdirect.com.au/ at the shockingly reasonable price of $69. I think Lexus charges $600, so this is a massive saving. The pads are actually listed for AMG CLK63 but seem to fit just fine. FD3s front brake pad for scale. And with that...we test! Overall the car does feel more sprightly, and the sound of the new exhaust seems to be a good compromise. It's burbly at idle, but mostly disappears if the windows and sunroof are closed. The only downside seems to be that the great induction snarl is a little drowned out now. The stock exhaust is so silent that the induction is all you normally hear when the airbox flap opens at 3800rpm...but the exhaust overwhelms it now. But in return, there are all sorts of nice muscle car noises from idle to 4000rpm, so it's swings and roundabouts. Very importantly, it doesn't drone at freeway speeds and there is just a distant woofle...there is a little budda-budda-budda backbeat under load from 1500-2000rpm which is a little intrusive, but I'm thinking that as the system packs out with carbon from use, it might quieten down.
  15. Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    Thanks for the welcome! ...as for brakes, nowadays I find that the best compromise is to run low-dust pads for street use, and for that one trackday a year I get to do, I fit harder pads beforehand. The Brembo pads already look pretty dusty, so I reckon I'll order a set of PMu NS400 all round, which should keep the dust at bay between weekly washes. They're only rated to 400C, so will turn to butter on a track, but the Brembos are cheap as chips ($99) so I'll keep a set of those for track days. Over the years, I haven't found a pad that does both jobs effectively. The closest were Endless MX72, better on dust than the Brembos and oem pads, but certainly not zero dust. Oh and an XForce exhaust has already been ordered, ETA next week :)