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  1. Today
  2. Hey guys, new to the world of Toyota/Lexus. I've picked up a 1995 UCF21 and no matter where I search I cant find an answer to my problem. 90% of my cluster works, the only things that don't are the back lighting and the odometer. Fuel, temp RPMs all other lights work fine. Most repair guides are for 89-94, and I cannot find a second hand cluster in Australia no matter how many wreckers ive called which means Im stuck repairing this one. Cluster repair shops wont even look at it, im being told they have no parts or getting quoted ridiculous amounts. If someone can point me in the direction of fixing it, or even buying a second hand one it would be greatly appreciated.
  3. For such cases , always try to take it to the nearby locksmith or dealer, they can do replacement instantly and provide you the new key fob for work.
  4. ISF man sorry to say but all those prices you have quoted are a fkn rort. My flange work cost me $250.00. My stainless 100cell cats $300.00 for the pair. $900.00 for 2 mufflers WTF. There must be gold in all of those bits. In hindsight if you were concerned about excessive noise, you should have tampered with the stock exhaust until you achieved the sound you were after. Any time you fit an aftermarket exhaust system with the intent of a power increase there is no quite, more so the sound and the power increase. Quite is the stock exhaust fitted to your car. Don`t waste any more of your hard earned money. I feel for you ya poor bugger . You have been ill informed. Sorry mate that was my rant too 🤬🤬🤬
  5. As a cheaper option, can you get a low cost chambered muffler, like a Redback or Genie installed, just as a point of comparison? I had a turbo rotary, which was unbearably loud with straight-through mufflers, and even a Magnaflow offset muffler (that was 1/2 an in smaller in diameter) was too loud. But just a generic chambered muffler cut down the drone dramatically. Say, something like this?[Chambered] It's the same length as the huge stock muffler, and just a bit narrower
  6. Kronos

    Spare Smart Key

    There are a number of locksmiths that can program Lexus keys. You just need to ask around. To be honest, if it were like my IS200 I'd just get another dumb key for emergency purposes.
  7. Its a random distribution. The sample size is probably the same as the rest of the IS distribution in Australia. The majority of people chose the automatic option. I spoke to the guy with number one in Melbourne, It's currently for sale and its also an auto.
  8. Almost nothing is directly interchangeable between the two engines that's how far they're apart. But if you want more info you're better off search toymods instead.
  9. Hi there, anything I need to buy or change on the engine bay if I am going to swap my 1G-FE to 2JZ-GTE? I am referring to engine mount? electrical, rack and pinion? thanks.
  10. Hi there I am new here, I had a question hope someone can answer me, I had an Lexus IS200 with 78,000km, I notice recently when I am driving around 20km/h I hear some static noise coming around my center aircon vent especially when I am accelerating but after 40km/h I am not hearing any noise already. Any idea here? Thanks.
  11. _ISF

    Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    Nicely done - i have the same set of products to repair some slight bolster wear on my black leather IS-F seats. Just need to wait for a long weekend of some holidays to commit to it because its obviously a time consuming ordeal. But, your seats look good. Please let us know how it holds up over the coming months.
  12. Yes i will get some pics and upload over the next few days. Cost me $2.1k for the custom mufflers ($900 for 2x mufflers), $550 for the 2x stainless steel cats, and $550 for the flange work, and then 4x new flanges (all prices include labour as there was no itemized labour cost on the invoice). Was more expensive than what i was expecting it to be (i was hoping for $1.2-1.5k) and i was also expecting everything to be stainless tig welded as i always get but they were not, so they have been mig welded and then painted where the welding is to prevent rust. I have had such good work done here previously on other cars by the same guy that i really don't know what has happened this time around - i suspect he was rushing (even though i told him not to worry if he needed to keep the car overnight, as long as it wasn't left outside). I have been looking at buying these mufflers to replace the *BLEEP*ty custom ones which i was led to believe would be the ducks nuts. I have used these AdrenalinR mufflers (which are made in New Zealand) on previous cars and they are mint - beautifully made and really high quality. I have been given a quote for this twin muffler combo incl postage to Australia for $970. These AdrenalinR mufflers were what i was going to buy from the start but was talked into the custom mufflers by the exhaust shop. With some luck, either the exhaust shop or the guy who made the customer mufflers will accept a return and refund and that will fund the cost of the much larger and no doubt better quality AdrenalinR muffers.
  13. Yesterday
  14. I found this on The Tire Rack web site. Tire Tech: Air Pressure for Competition Tires I use Michelin Pilot Sport Cup 2 tyres at the track, & I run front 46psi hot, & rear 38 to 40psi hot. I look at the side walls of the tyre, & if I’m start to run on the side walls I increase the pressure by 2psi. the ISF is front heavy & needs more pressure in the front tyres at the track.
  15. @18ADF Please Hi. Please educate us more on your findings.
  16. Last week
  17. Babalouie

    Babalouie ISF Maintenance Thread

    Late last year I decided to have the side bolsters of the driver's seat repaired. Due to the big bolsters on the seats, pretty much all ISFs have unusually high wear on the edges of the seats. A dude came to my house, sanded the leather and applied a new coat of paint which looked great for a while. But it didn't last. Basically the foam under the leather was collapsed, and everytime you sat on the seat, the leather would crease and fold. This flexes the leather and cracks the newly applied paint, which in my case started flaking off within a month. It's not the fault of the paint guy, in fact he did caution me that unless the foam was repaired, the repair possibly might not last very long. And so you see today, the leather is saggy and where it's creased and folded, you can see the darker leather underneath the surface. In comparison, the leather on the tunnel-side of the seat is nice and taut and you can't make it bunch up like the outside bolster, no matter how hard you try. So the foam has to be repaired before we try anything else. So I took the seat out of the car and dropped it off at my favourite trimmer. $250 and a couple of days later, the outside bolster was a mirror image of the inside one again. The creases and folds are now pulled tauter, which kinda makes them more obvious now 🙂 But you'll also notice that the leather is still a little wavy, and isn't perfectly flat and smooth as it should be. More of this anon. Now before we get too carried away with what happens next, we should talk about leather. The grain that you see on leather seats isn't natural at all, but is in fact a pattern that is hot-rolled into the leather with a polyurethane coating. That's why leather seats are such a perfectly uniform grain. When leather comes off the cow, it peeled into 5 layers. the top and bottom layers are used for handbags, book binding and shoes, and it's the middle layer that gets used for seating. It has no grain, which is why an artificial grain has to be imparted on it. So it gets rolled to install a plastic outer layer, which is both the colour and the grain. And when modern seats age, rather than look mellow like a vintage piece of furniture, the colour layer peels or flakes off and the seats look terrible. And the reason why we can't have leather like they had in cars in the 1950s, is because the ye-olde tanning process used chromium and other awful chemicals, and it's no longer legal to make leather that way. Even India has banned it 🙂 So the repair that we're about to apply is called a "dye" but it might be fairer to call it a flexible coloured coating. Years ago I had to restore a leather steering wheel, and so I bought this Leatherique kit which worked pretty well. There was enough left in the kit, that all I had to get was the colour, which was mixed up at to suit the seat. There's multiple steps, and as you'll see the whole process takes about a week. The first step is to apply the Rejuvenator, which is like a moisturising oil. It's not oil and is actually water-based, but it goes on like a sticky, honeylike oil. The idea is that it seeps into the leather to soften if you've been paying attention, then you might be thinking that it can't possibly soak in, because the leather has that hotrolled plastic coating, right? And you'd be correct! The next morning, the areas where the leather is good, still show a thin sticky layer of the stuff...but the areas where the leather coating was damaged and the base leather was exposed...on those areas the sticky goo had been totally absorbed. I think this is important, because leather dries out once the coating is breached. So this is the last chance to get some moisture and flexibility back into the damaged sections. Also, there is still some absorbtion in the "good" areas of the seat, because there are always pinholes and micro-tears in the coating which let the stuff through. And the large sections which are perforated absorbed the stuff the best. Remember how the leather still looked a little wavy after the repadding? Well, the Rejuvenator seems to have fattened up the leather in the creases and made the whole thing more supple, so straight away you notice that it's flatter and more relaxed-looking. Next step is Prestine Clean, which is a cleaner/solvent that's brushed on... And then you use a leather brush to clean/scrub... ...before wiping away the dirty detergent with a damp cloth (that you need to keep rinsing) Rejuvenator and Prestine Clean are what Leatherique recommends to clean and condition leather as part of your normal maintenance, so I did the whole seat, which now felt noticeably clean and softer. You then have to wait 48hrs 🙂 before progressing to the business end. Which involves sandpaper. You fill a bowl with the Prepping Agent, dip some 600 emery paper into it, and go to town to remove the old damaged dye and leave a smooth surface. After all that, wipe down to see that you have well and truly passed the point of no return 🙂 Run your fingers across the leather to see if what you feel is a totally smooth, even drag. If you can feel it on your finger tips, you'll see it under the new dye. In this pic below, you can actually see on the left, that the paint repair was actually slightly browner than the seat colour. Then you mask the black stitching with electrician's tape, which I figured was more flexible to accommodate the bumpy stitching. Shake the crap out of the bottle of dye, pour it into a container and stir it again...then get a clean cloth, rinse it and wring it dry, then form a "puff" with it that has no edges. Then rub on the dye with light, circular strokes, like polishing a car. I start off with light, thin coats, which dry in 10mins with a hairdryer. After a couple of can still see the dark patches where the old colour came off. But after about 6 light coats, it's looking pretty good. The finish is an even semi-matte, and you can't see any strokes or splotches. So...a pretty good result 🙂 The only thing I'm not 100% happy with, is that the dye is maybe a little more yellowy than the original colour. When the guy mixed up the colour, we smudged a little onto the seat and the colour match looked spot on, so maybe I didn't shake or stir it enough. But then again, this is in my kitchen under downlights and sitting on white tiles, so perhaps it isn't noticeable once it's in the dark cabin. The old spray repair was actually more brown than it should be and wasn't noticeable, so fingers crossed.'ll be 48hrs before I can sit in it 🙂 As to whether this repair lasts, I guess we'll see. But the fact that the foam is back to its old self again means we have a significant head start.
  18. Hey guys, Just looking for some thoughts and personal experience for an axle or cat back exhaust for a 3IS 200t (2017, facelift). I've been searching around on the forums and other places but can't really find exact information, I'm looking for quad tips which will fit with the factory diffuser. Brands I've managed to find so far in Australia are; Invidia, Ark and custom. There doesn't seem to be any quad tip options available for the IS but a multitude for the RC. Has anyone fitted an aftermarket quad tip RC on the IS without changing anything else? Went to a few shops around Sydney today to speak to people. One place recommended getting an invidia RC tip but I'm not sure if the aesthetic fitment will work. There is the single tip option for axle back (will add the mid pipe down the line). Or the Ark catback, but for the price it doesn't seem worthwhile on a 200t. Can anyone give personal advice and pics of what they've done (also where and price)? Cheers,
  19. I have got new key from locksmith and they deleted the old key fob off system, is there any issue with it anymore.
  20. I searched the Internet, and I asked in novsight customer service.
  21. Mate sorry to hear this! i would say bite the bullet sell it and start again but it will be tough to sell a butchered up exhaust like that. not point in trying to polish up a turd. If you hate it scrap it. Again unfortunate. how much was it for the mufflers, the hi flow cats and the flange work? any pics to help describe what you’re talking about?
  22. Hi All, Just made the upgrade to R Compound Semi Slicks, NT01’s (100 UTQG), and had my first track day on them earlier this week. Previously I have used 595 RS-RR, RS-3 & NT05 UHP Tyres / ‘Street Semi Slicks’ with 200 UTQG Treadwear and ran 40+ psi hot routinely as they yielded the better lap times. What do others think though is the optimum hot psi pressure for R Compound Semi Slicks on our ISF’s? Thanks, Matthew
  23. point 3 no selling on model section please use the market place
  24. ok for starters u posted in the wrong section and now for the question your car runs xenons from factory and should be a d4s bulb where did you get the info of h7 working on your car?
  25. Hi, I have a 2015 is300 and recently purchased an H7 LED conversion kit from NOVSIGHT. When I received it, I quickly realized it would not work because it is designed for cars that have the H7 plug/harness accessible outside of the headlight enclosure. As you likely know, the headlight enclosure on the newer is300 has a single wiring harness that delivers power to all of the bulbs and it is distributed internally within the, no H7 female to plug the bulb into. The factory bulb plugs into a small round gray holder which has metal conductors on the sides. The holder serves two purposes - 1. It complete the electrical circuit to get power to the bulb. 2. It twists into the opening in the enclosure and holds the bulb securely in place. So, for my question - Does anyone know of an LED conversion kit that will work with my car? Or, are the some good mod plans that aren't too crazy difficult to get a kit to work/fit properly? Thanks! Bruce
  26. Well.....after a looooong wait (2.5 months when i was initially told 2-3 weeks) i got the following done yesterday: - OEM exhaust manifold lower flanges opened up to 2.5" to increase flow - 2x 2.5" stainless steel cats welded into the mid pipe - 2x 2.5" chambered mufflers on the rear to replace the xforce mufflers I am pretty happy with the manifold flange work and the cats - but the custom mufflers which i have waited for what seems like an eternity are a huge disappointment and as far as im concerned, a total waste of money at this stage. The cost for the work listed above was considerable (in my eyes anyway) so i am pretty disappointed overall. The quality of work that the shop has done is also lower than what they have done for me before on other cars (i have used this shop for a number of years with 3 or 4 different cars) which further adds to my disappointment. Sound wise, the new mufflers are perhaps 10-15% quieter than the xforce mufflers, but no where near as quiet as what i was hoping for (i want 40-50% quieter). Still very loud inside the car at low throttle inputs and when backing off and slowing down for a traffic light etc (also considerable drone between 1,500-2,000rpm). Sounds nice when you put your foot down, but for 95% of my driving which is under 3,000rpm they are far too loud still. Looks wise - they look ridiculous. They are a tiny 8"x3" oval body (considerably smaller than the xforce ones) so when you look at the back of the car through the exhaust tips you can see past them and see the road/suspension etc. I thought what i was getting was a nice big muffler (similar to the Borla mufflers on their ISF exhaust) which was going to make full use of the space under the car and give me as much reduction in sound as possible. Currently talking to the exhaust shop about what we can do here - he has admitted that the mufflers were smaller than what he was expecting so he is going to speak to the guy who makes them for him to see what can be done. Either way, these mufflers will not be on the car for any longer than absolutely necessary as i hate them. Rant over - annoyed and disappointed (and now poor) IS-F owner.
  27. Dutchy

    Lexus Enform App

    Agree it does crash even on IOS however the functionality in Australia is limited to what is available in the US. I've used it for destination downloads, brilliant, and I've used it for finding cheap petrol, also brilliant. I'm not really sure how the time to destination works and how accurate it is and it seems to conflict with the native map guidance so not sure what's going on there. It is what it is I guess, if only saving you time trying to enter destinations when you get in the car then it's excellent.
  28. adammilne

    Spare Smart Key

    Ventura Locksmith had provided me this brand key at $170, isn't that good price.
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