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Is It Advisable To Buy A Lexus From Auctioneers?

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In general

buyers go to auctions to purchase cheap used cars

though most of the time the conditions in late model cars are good

lexus is a pretty solid reliable car so i dont think you whould have any issues though

but going to auctions these days

you would find that purchasing from private buyers are better as some people at the auctions just pay stupid money for some cars

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Its not my thing personally, but you could pick up a bargain. My first bit of advice would be to look through the manual to see if the book is stamped as required, and where it is stamped. If it has been stamped by either a Lexus dealer, or other reputable dealer, you're on a winner. The second step would be to look for major structural damage. Difficult for the non-mechanic (like me), but there are some ways that you can check. Look for uneven tyre wear, changes in paint (especially in door hinge areas), check for Lexus panel ID markers on the doors, look at the 'lines' of the car, look for little bubbles or pitting on the surface, especially the plastic parts, which would indicate an average re-spray job. As for whether the vehicle has been thrashed, look for the colour around the exhaust too - want to see a dark graphite grey residue, not a light ashy or jet black colour.

And then of course, there's the general 'running sound' and 'start up' and of course the electricals (check windows, mirrors, lights, dash, stereo, locking, seat controls, A/C - check EVERYTHING), provided you're able to turn the car on at the auction house!!!! The sound on start-up would be important to me too - would not to want to hear a rough or rattley sound.

Also with auction houses you typically don't get much time to inspect the car, but as a third check you might be able to ring through the rego and VIN through to a friend on the phone and they could check on-line for you if it 'checks out' (Whether the car is written off and/or still subject to finance).

I'm sure some of the community here could also pass on more "what to look fors".

And of course, lastly do you research on-line and determine what a typical price range is based on year & kms, and set your limit considerably below that.

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Thanks for your replies and advice, Danny and Sapphire Cam - that was an excellent summary of what to watch out for.

If I understand it right, in this case the IS250 is a "fixed price" sale ie, it will not be auctioned, and it can't be test-driven. I didn't ask any further questions about things like being allowed to start up the engine etc. Will keep you posted of progress, if any.

Thanks again - much appreciated.



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I went to an Pickles auction and was surprised how expensive a Lexus that I was interested in was sold for.I ended up purchasing from a Lexus dealer. Depending on the age (still under warranty?) and mileage I think it is reasonably safe to purchase from pickles just don't expect a bargain. If you go to an auction know exactly what you would pay for the same car elsewhere and factor in add-on's eg commision, registration etc

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if the day you go to the auction and the car you want is high demand - lots of bidders - then the buying price is maybe too high

Conversely a similar car on quiet auction day may go under the hammer for a genuine bargain price

But and here is the but you never know when the auction will be busy so it is a lottery

And also caveat emptor - many cars in an auction may just have bodged up repairs to get them sold at auction

IMHO are private seller is often the preferrred way to acquire a quality used car!

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I think the car in question is a fixed price deal so not under the usual bid process. IMo, I think the saving against a dealer or private sale would have to be considerable to take on the risk of buying the car without a test drive.

I am not sure why Pickles do not allow a test drive or mechanical examination on their fixed price cars, it would really put me off purchasing one. I guess the positive is that it would still be under factory warranty, but I would want to make sure that this hasn't been invalidated in any way.

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Thanks for picking up on some basic points, Melchels - it is a fixed price car and like you, I'm suspicious of a process that does not seem to be open and transparent. My guess is that the real price differential would be about $3-5K - and isn't worth the risk - so this one isn't for me!!

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