Jump to content

Rs200 Dyno'd


Recommended Posts

Dyno'd the Tezza on saturday,

Came in at 99.6kw @ the wheels.

has anybody else dyno'd theirs?

I'm curious, didn't expect that much loss through the drive train.

even accounting for less horsepower from factory due to not having the nice tasty

jap gas, still puts me at around about 30% drive train loss.

I was expecting closer to 20% like most other rwd cars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


I want to dyno mine but want a full exhaust system before I do it!

even though 99.6kw doesnt seem much at the wheels, it probably is a pretty decent figure. Ive heard of wrx's and similar hp turbo's with less than 100 at the wheels.

comparisons of other altezza's would definately be interesting!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wrx's are well known for large drive train loss... I'm pretty certain standard wrxs (non sti) in australia were dyno'ing up at 60-70kw atw.

The dyno day I was at, was mainly turbo cars so made for bad comparison, but a 2.5litre 6cyl 323i BMW was there, and it got 95kw atw.

anybody know what they are rated at the fly factory?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

The manufacturers specs say 164 kw at fly for manual, which is around 210 hp (correct me if i'm wrong)

I had my car dyno'd , Altezza turbo, while getting it tuned. It came back with 170 rwkw or 225 rwhp. Works out to be 199 kw (fly) or 266 hp.

The guy that did it said there was a 17% driveloss, coz he could only do the power run in 3rd gear (kept hitting speed cut in higher gear). Higher gear = less loss. This car is manual too.

Its a pretty good power gain for bolting on a turbo, with exhaust and pod filter.

35kw = 45 hp @ 5psi boost.

Squid, is your car manual?

Corey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

The manufacturers specs say 164 kw at fly for manual, which is around 210 hp (correct me if i'm wrong)

I had my car dyno'd , Altezza turbo, while getting it tuned. It came back with 170 rwkw or 225 rwhp. Works out to be 199 kw (fly) or 266 hp.

The guy that did it said there was a 17% driveloss, coz he could only do the power run in 3rd gear (kept hitting speed cut in higher gear). Higher gear = less loss. This car is manual too.

Its a pretty good power gain for bolting on a turbo, with exhaust and pod filter.

35kw = 45 hp @ 5psi boost.

Squid, is your car manual?

Corey

sorry have to correct ya it's 154kw at 210hp for manual...:)

I got an 109.09 kw at the wheels bone stock on 96 petro....not sure what it is going to be like now, expecting 115rwkw after intake and filter...but Riachard you have already got Apex-i FIlter and Blitz Muffler...who did your dyno there has to be something wrong.

Matt :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry have to correct ya it's 154kw at 210hp for manual...:)

I got an 109.09 kw at the wheels bone stock on 96 petro....not sure what it is going to be like now, expecting 115rwkw after intake and filter...but Riachard you have already got Apex-i FIlter and Blitz Muffler...who did your dyno there has to be something wrong.

Matt :)

Squid, is your car manual?

Corey

Yep, the car is the 6spd man

I don't know if I'd count a drop in replacement filter as a performance upgrade worthy of a increase in power.

It was done at KiwiRE in pakuranga, on a dynodynamics dyno.

Some of the other cars being dyno'd at the time were all withing 5-10kw of their

previous runs on other dynos.

However, I do appear to have developed a 'hesitation' around 3800-4000rpm

which I'm investigating at the moment which may be the reason.

but hasn't seemed to effect the top-end using a squidsassometer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just curious guys what gear are you dynoing in. Most people are used to dynoing in 3rd or 4th but the dyno should be done in the gear closest or at 1:1 ratio, in the 6spd altezza thats 5fth gear.

I dynoed at

3rd gear @ 160hp/129lb ft the gear ratio is 1:1.585

4th gear @ 163/134 the gear ratio is 1:1.223

5th gear @ 167/138 the gear ratio is 1:1

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just curious guys what gear are you dynoing in. Most people are used to dynoing in 3rd or 4th but the dyno should be done in the gear closest or at 1:1 ratio, in the 6spd altezza thats 5fth gear.

I dynoed at

3rd gear @ 160hp/129lb ft  the gear ratio is 1:1.585

4th gear @ 163/134 the gear ratio is 1:1.223

5th gear @ 167/138 the gear ratio is 1:1

Mine was done in 3rd gear...

Here's the Dyno Plot

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry have to correct ya it's 154kw at 210hp for manual...:)

I got an 109.09 kw at the wheels bone stock on 96 petro....not sure what it is going to be like now, expecting 115rwkw after intake and filter...but Riachard you have already got Apex-i FIlter and Blitz Muffler...who did your dyno there has to be something wrong.

Matt :)

Squid, is your car manual?

Corey

Yep, the car is the 6spd man

I don't know if I'd count a drop in replacement filter as a performance upgrade worthy of a increase in power.

It was done at KiwiRE in pakuranga, on a dynodynamics dyno.

Some of the other cars being dyno'd at the time were all withing 5-10kw of their

previous runs on other dynos.

However, I do appear to have developed a 'hesitation' around 3800-4000rpm

which I'm investigating at the moment which may be the reason.

but hasn't seemed to effect the top-end using a squidsassometer.

Has the car got the hesitation after installing the pod intake system?

I know that you can actually loose power from the pod filters because it alters the intake air flow more than what the ecu can handle. It just makes it sound faster.

The apexi intake kit actually gives settings for the apexi SAFC (super air flow converter) with the instructions for optimum gain.

Maybe put the old air box back in and give it another dyno run at the same place and check the difference.

also what fuel were you running? the japanesse power figures are from using decent fuel, I think they have 100 octane over there. Apparently its not uncommon for cars to loose about 20 odd KW using our *BLEEP* fuel.

Thats why I only run mine on BP 98.octane, I heard that some of our 96octane fuel is really only around 90 octane and the 91 is worse. Apparently the BP 98 is mixed in Aussie and shipped over here

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hows it people?

A BMW 323i(1996-00) 125kw@fly

A BMW 323i(00-04) 141kw@fly

A BMW M3(00-04) 252kw@fly(Just put that in because I want one!)

Think the dyno results could be a bitt suss bro!

my mate did a run in hiss VR CLUBSPORT at torque performance

134.5@wheels and it was stock 180@fly

Torque Performance are the best in NZ without a doubt.

Good Luck.

Graham

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has the car got the hesitation after installing the pod intake system?

***

also what fuel were you running?

***

Sorry for the confusion, but its a Apexi replacement filter, not a pod.

so still have the factory air box.

And it was running BP 98 on the dyno.

(although I have been running it on gull 97 as an experiment.)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Has the car got the hesitation after installing the pod intake system?

***

also what fuel were you running?

***

Sorry for the confusion, but its a Apexi replacement filter, not a pod.

so still have the factory air box.

And it was running BP 98 on the dyno.

(although I have been running it on gull 97 as an experiment.)

Oh yeah i thought you meant Pod.

The gull fuel should probably go the same as BP 98 I think, I have heard they both come from the same place in Aussie and are the same mix. who knows? :unsure:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...




Forums


News


Membership