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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
  2. 1 point
    mate - Chatswood all the way. Speak to Scott or Chris - tell them that Alex D with the ISF sent you. They will take great care of you
  3. 1 point
    Now available in Australia officially Lexus ISF owners have a new choice of exhaust system available With inbuilt cat converters in the headers it is a bolt in bolt out solution to your ISF Prices are Headers $5700 Cat back $7930 Full system $12510
  4. 1 point
    I know what you're thinking, which is that surely brake-stalling the trans has an element of friction or slippage, like slipping the clutch in a manual, but it's not the same as a neutral drop, and to explain why, you have to see what an auto transmission looks like inside. Here's a trans I had rebuild a while ago; it was an electronic 4spd auto, the sort that was quite common until the early 2000s. The 8, 9 and 10 spd autos we have today are ironically more compact, but the principles are the same, and it's far easier to visualise how it all works with an older style trans like this one. [i The way an auto works is that each gear is like a spinning drum (which you can see several in the pic above). And here's one below: In Neutral, all 4 drums are spinning, and no drive is being sent to the wheels. In the pic above, you can just about see the clutch band wrap around the drum. When you select Drive, what happens is that hydraulic pressure wraps the band tight around the drum, forcing it to stop spinning. This engages gears inside the drum, and 1st gear is now selected. When the trans shifts to second, the hydraulics release the 1st gear band, allowing the 1st gear drum to spin again, and engages the 2nd gear band which stops the 2nd gear drum from spinning, and so on and so forth. But unlike the clutch in a manual, the clutch band in an auto is a frail looking thing, with only a very thin friction lining. It's immersed in a bath of transmission oil, and it engages with hydraulic pressure, rather than the massive clamping force of a manual clutch spring. Here's some clutch bands below, and as you can see they're not terribly robust and are really just strong enough to disengage one gear and select the next. They aren't actually designed to transmit the torque of the engine at all. When you do a neutral drop, you have the 1st gear drum spinning at huuuge rpm (instead of idle rpm like normal when you shift from P to D) and the little clutch band has to arrest it and engage 1st gear. Basically it isn't designed for any of that, and isn't strong enough to absorb the shock from a clutch dump (or neutral drop). And that's why a neutral drop is a very damaging thing to do to an auto trans. So now you're thinking...so what happens when you brake-stall it to 1500rpm? Well now you know that when you're doing a brake-stall launch, the selector is in D, the 1st gear drum is locked in by the clutch band and the trans is good to go. The "slippage" is not inside the trans at all, but in the torque convertor, which looks like this: Best way to understand what it does, is to imagine that the donut-shaped casing is bolted to the flywheel, and spins at engine rpm. Now imagine a shaft from the trans going into the donut, attached to say, a paddlewheel from an old style steamship. Now imagine that the inside surface of the donut is full of vanes, and the whole shebang is filled with custard. As you rev the engine, the donut casing will spin, and the vanes will move the custard, which will eventually move the paddlewheel...and the transmission will now spin, too. Inside the torque convertor the metal parts don't contact each other at all, and it's the custard that transmits the force from outer to inner. Now, the torque convertor is always working with a certain amount of slippage, for example when you're stationary in D...the donut is spinning at idle rpm but the paddlewheel is held stationary by your foot on the brake. This happens all day, everyday. The transmission fluid (it's not actually custard in there 🙂 ) is designed to cope with that. Brake-stalling increases the amount of slippage, but it isn't actually a mechanical slippage or impact; it's basically just the custard/fluid that is being whipped into more of a frenzy than usual. Now, if you brake-stalled it to 1500rpm and held it there for a really long time, then you can imagine that the fluid will start to overheat, and that's not good for it. But a brief brake-stall for a heartbeat as part of a launch is actually far less of a mechanical shock than dropping the clutch in a manual. A neutral drop is actually very similar to a clutch dump in a manual, except that the components taking up all the shock aren't really designed for it.
  5. 1 point
    Results are in....265kw at the wheels. Same dyno, similar/same weather conditions, same dyno operator, no other mods or changes to the car other than the RR Racing ECU tune. Previous results (prior to the tune) were between 247-249kw, so the tune has increased power and torque all through the powerband with a maximum gain of around 16-18kw at the wheels. Attached dyno graph shows a comparision between the stock tune and the RR Racing tune (gains in power and torque all throughout the rev range, but where the stock tune died off at around 6,000rpm, the RR tune keeps going until redline).
  6. 1 point
    ISF has a very extremely tight turning circle, and coupled with the very stiff, square-shouldered tyres, at full lock at low speed I think it will do funny things. But it doesn't mean that there's anything wrong with it. My wife's IS250 has big baloony tyres and doesn't do it.
  7. 1 point
    Yep. I get this too. Running 255 Pilot Super Sport fronts and RR USRS. I get this very early in the mornings when the temp is freezing and reversing on full lock coming out the driveway. I haven't noticed this feeling when the tyres or temperature has warmed up. Not sure what is contributing to this but I'm dealing with Mercedes atm with a C43 & GLC that gets this tyre skip too
  8. 1 point
    Gidday fellas, So a read a lot, looked at Youtube videos that were available, spoke to a few knowledgeable people and also my trusty local mechanic. (good mate) Lexus wanted $1600.00 plus GST per housing, which I was serious thinking about doing. Lexus wreckers wanted $440.00 per housing for 2006 - 2007 housings, didn't give this a second thought as I would only end up with old housings again. After all my reading online both here and OS on forums etc, one person said to replace with new Lexus original globes and this will fix the problem. So I brought 2 x new HID globes for $350.00 each from Lexus and fitted them up. Fixed the problem straight away. They are perfect and super bright. I ran the car for 1 hour, not a flicker or fault for either side. So there you go, Lexus housings do not like Phillips low beam globes, I don't care what you think as I put up with this inferior standard lighting for two years and paid $100 dollars for *BLEEP* Phillips after market globes thinking it would help, but no it didn't, so its original all the way for me from now on with anything to do with lighting on this car. The Phillips globes would work for 15 minutes, then flicked off and on, would go out completely on either side at random intervals. Even my local mechanic was a little amazed, yes the cost is hard to justify but it fixed the problem and a lot cheaper than the cost of 2 x new housing.. It is not a ballast issue, ballasts never fail in Oz as our climate is to mild, so consider your globes, and consider Lexus genuine parts on the issue, oh please don't get me wrong, I love a bargain and always go for aftermarket parts, but this is a lesson learnt :) Cheers Grant

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