IS250-2007

Hi fargate, I'm yet to resolve my issues with the transmission, from what I've read you probably want to go straight to replacing the AT if you can get one for 1k and replace it for 2k. If I could get one for 1k and fitted for 2k, and it was guaranteed, then I'd do that. I had the lock-up solenoid replaced, it was meant to be the first step that if that didn't work then the mechanic would refurb the transmission including the TCC. The mechanic went quiet on that work. In my research on the a960e transmission I've come across Sonnax Zip Kits which are designed to fix issues with the valve body. I've raised this with different transmission specialists and nobody seems to have heard of these to fix issues with the a960e. When I read the Sonnax website it sounds very similar to the issues I'm having. I've been quoted $1,600 to fit the Zip Kit. I was quoted $2,850 for a brand new valve body fitted. https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/A960/product/596/ https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/345-diagnosing-solenoid-performance-faults-in-a761-ab60-a960-6-speed-transmissions

Lexus sent me to this transmission repairer. They said this is common and to go straight to the specialist, who they send other customers to with similar issues. The mechanic explained the $500 fix was possible to work with the solenoid replacement, but may not and would be taken off the $3,500 bill for the full transmission reconditioning. That's my next step is the full transmission service, which includes sending the torque convertor clutch to be reconditioned. The other transmission specialist I went to recommended replacing the valve body, but nothing else, for $3,000. I've looked online and finding a low km transmission to replace this transmission seems challenging (I could be looking in the wrong place) and getting a higher km transmission could just end up with the same issue.

I've run into the problem with Transmission which seems to kick in with high mileage if the transmission oil hasn't been changed. It isn't part of the service from Lexus, so something to check and can be an expensive (as I'm finding) if you get it. Also check if the rear vents still exist in the boot, if they don't (they perish overtime) then you can tape over them or buy replacements.

Hi GL - yes the codes have been cleared with a scanner and they came back, this time round much faster but that could be because the car was already warm. It looks mechanical with the different mechanics I've had check it out. The latest has recommended to have the solenoid replaced as a first step - $500. If that doesn't work then they recommend a full reconditioned transmission for $3500. The P2757 could be the solenoid or the torque converter clutch. Apparently they see Lexus' come in at 250-300k with this problem, and while 185k is early it is isn't unheard of. They had a GS in at the same time where they were replacing the solenoid. And they echoed what has been shared on this forum that having the oil changed in the transmission is important to do, even if Lexus say it is lifetime and doesn't need changing.

Yes I did the scan and cleared the code by pulling the fuses. The code came back. The thread you sent through is interesting on the ECU being the root cause, I don't think I've got the other symptoms so it seems to be the transmission. I haven't found many references to this being a common issue for the IS250 on the Aus forums, but there's a big thread on this being a common problem once cars gets north of 160,000 kms. https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-2nd-gen-2006-2013/728555-check-vsc-light-need-to-replace-transmission-17.html HERE'S SOME EXCERPTS FROM THIS THREAD Symptoms - oil change and solenoid change I'm having the same problem with the Code P2757. Changed the oil and filter twice and same code appears but its intermittent. VSC light goes away after a couple of days and goes back on. Transmission shifts the gear rapidly at times. I'm in 6th gear while doing 30 on the city street and I also feel the transmission doesn't want to shift to lower gear while I try to accelerate. When the pressure valve is stuck open you won't have any problems at high speeds, but will have slight problems at lower speeds. A mechanic can test this for you by plugging a special scanner into your engine code outlet. While driving, he can use this device to see whether the pressure control valve opens and closes as it should. He can also open and close it manually with the same device. My car had symptoms similar to yours, but barely noticeable. I think mine was OK finding lower gears for hard accelerations, but less reliable when speeding up slightly. I just assumed it was trying to save gas by using higher gears as often as possible. Of course, everything worked fine in sport mode, when choosing gears manually. Changing the solenoid made the car much better at lower speeds, with no problem finding the right gear anymore. At first, the car was confused with the new solenoid, and I had to unplug the battery to reset everything. Then it was perfect. Afterward, I brought it to Lexus for a full diagnostic and they seemed happy with everything, although one mechanic told me it was just a "band-aid fix that wouldn't last." But what he meant is that "the tranny is getting old and other parts will fail, and that it's not worth doing a bunch of repairs vs getting a new tranny." To me it WAS worth $500, even if I have another repair later. But take it to an independent transmission shop because Lexus will charge $800-$1000 for the same job. Incidentally, my car had 135k miles when I first changed the oil and replaced the solenoid. The oil was very old but there was no sign of mechanical wear. Someone changed one solenoid and then got another error: hi guys.unfortunatly after replacing slu solenoid 35280-30050/ error code p2757/ just 500mi ago.new error code just came with all lights/vsc,check,traction/ p0894. any ideas? is that onother solenoid-and if is solenoid which one is it? if is onother solenoid isnt better transmission replace because i dont want to replace every each of them every 500mi? Thanks in advance!!! Only mention I could find of a complete new valve body New to the groups but this is the issue I had last week and the fix...hopefully VSC came on... Codes read... P0751 shift sol "a" performance or stuckoff P2714 Press control sol "d" perf or stuckoff in fail safe The transmission shop "AAMCO" who I am friends with refused to just fix the 2, said from the past only fixing 2 never fixes it. He was able to get a remanufactured valve body w/ solenoids shipped in 2 days later from Michigan. Cost for part and labor ran me $1100. Hope this helps and any questions let me know. He also agreed that the 350 is rare to see major transmission issues. Thanks, Joe Some US dealers saying transmission lifetime is 100k miles Originally Posted by DRivera250 At the dealership right now. I have 135k miles on the car. Service advisor said it may need a transmission flush, but may not solve the problem. $4k for a new transmission. Asked him what is the life of a transmission he stated 100k miles. Which seems really low. But many of us seem to be running to issues at around the same mileage. My story is exactly the same, mileage, dealer, whole thing. Temperature will show the fault I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!

The transmission said that it requires a Vale Body Replacement and that this will cost $3,100 and includes the new gasket and oil. They said this is a common issue that they see on the A950 transmission. Has anyone come across someone replacing the Valve Body to deal with these issues?

Hi all, Anyone had any experience with P2757 error code? Reading the forum the first steps appear to be oil cycling and filter change, possibly solenoid change, and some comments saying once it appears it could be terminal for the transmission. Details on what's happened below. A couple of weeks ago I got the Check VSC engine warning light, nothing dramatic happened while driving or any real noticeable change - the only thing leading up to this was that it had stalled a couple of times when I was reversing into the garage. I pulled the fuses and cleared the warning light (and ordered Techstream cable) if it happened again. The warning light didn't come back on and the car has been noticeably smoother since I pulled the fuses (this seems to be common in the threads I read on this). Last night the warning light came back on and using Techstream I'm getting the P2757 code - again the car seems to be fine. The timing just before Christmas isn't great, but I'm off to a Transmission specialist this afternoon (recommended by the mechanic) for them to have a look. From reading the forums (here and UK) the recommendation seems to be oil cycling and filter change (and possibly solenoid chance). When I spoke to them on the phone and asked about the oil cycling they seemed to think that this was a waste of time, interesting to see later if they have alot of IS250s come through. Thanks, Steve

Yep the one I ordered from the UK arrived this week, fitted it yesterday, and it seems to work fine, which is great. I had contacted Pioneer Australia and they said that they'll do an assessment for $70 of the amp (including return postage) and tell you how much it will cost to repair.

Hi Leo, For the carbon buildup question - mine was running rough and had a mechanical knocking noise when it started cold. When I took it for a service at Lexus Sutherland it cost ¬$120 for them to do a carbon clean. It ran amazingly smoothly after that, a really big difference. Thanks, Steve

Hi, I'm a new poster on the forum, but have been reading through all of the great information for the last year. Thanks for posting! I bought my 2007 IS250 just over a year ago (162k) on the clock and have run into the faulty amplifier problem earlier this year. I think I may have inadvertently damaged the head unit aswell. Are there any amp repairers people have used? All sound stopped working just before I took it for its 175k service at Lexus Sutherland. They quoted me $1,000 to have it fixed by Pioneer. I would hear the click click noise from the front left speakers and it would intermittently work (generally after the car was not used for a week or so, and then once the car was turned off it again it wouldn't work for another week or so). I took it out to seal the pressure vent on that side and when I plugged it back in I went for a drive. The radio was working and I noticed a weird smell in the cabin (I had been to Bunnings so thought it was to do with the soil). There was then a high pitched noise from the speakers and the radio wouldn't turn off. I unplugged the amp and the noise and smell stopped. I think it might have been something in the head unit burning. I've ordered a secondhand amp from the UK for ¬$220, which will hopefully work and will allow me to test to see if the burning smell comes back. It would be great to find a mechanic who is experienced with the faulty amps who might be able to fix the existing amp and see if there is a new fault with the head unit. Thanks, Steve