last1

I went with Pirelli P-Zero Rosso's for the fronts. Have had them on the car for over 6 months. No complaints, happy to buy them again.

Update on my change of fronts... Elected to go with Pirelli (keeping the Dunlop Sport Maxx on the rear because they're still in good condition). I went for the P Zero Rosso because I got a good price ($320 each and free balance and alignement). My thoughts: no noticable difference in grip/handling/braking (was happy with the Dunlops on all these points anyway), but, a big difference in ride. The car feels as if I've got 16s or 17s rather than 18s on the front, making for a much smoother ride. I'll probably complete the Pirelli set when the rears are shot (so long as I can still get a good price on Pirellis at that time). BTW, I couldn't find similar Dunlop fronts for less than $500+ per tyre!

Interesting. None of the places have recommended the Toyos to date. Some have suggested using Khumos and the like when their quotes for the Dunlops come in too high. But they're just suggesting them after I've scoffed at their near-$500 per tire quote to appease my shock. Have narrowed selection, after a couple more recommendations and quotes etc. to 2 options a ) SP Sportmaxx TT (asy rather than directional like the ones I have on the car at the moment) at $409 per tire, keeping the same brand front and rear - but using a tire which most dealers don't rate highly (they rated the discontinued directionals much higher). b ) P-Zero directionals on special at $320 per tire (the tire most recommended to me based on performance/price) and have 2 different branded tires on the car (something that just p###es me off a little). Must make bad decision. But which one to make :)

I'm surprised to see a number of people conducting their own minor servicing. Or maybe it's just an oil change within the recommended period. From my experience (on cars and bikes), the lower the 'w' rating on the grade (ie: 0w - ??) the better it is for cold motors (starting and first few kms). The lower the running temp rating (the 2nd figure in the grade) the more responsive the motor (and theoretically the better the fuel consumption seeing friction is reduced when running thinner oil). And furthermore: The tighter the difference between the w rating and operating temp rating (say 0w-30 versus 5w-40) the longer the oil will hold together since it doesn't require as many additives to either thicken the oil at operating temp or thin the oil at cold temp. It's the oil which is responsible for reducing friction and engine cooling - the additives are there to assist it. Formula One cars run either a straight 5 or 10 oil depending on the likely running temp of the engine (they also use huge oil coolers and warm their engines up prior to taking off) rather than running a 0w-20 or something similar - which would be much simpler than having to lug a huge oil cooler around! Just my 2 cents. BTW I haven't changed the oil in the Lexus myself as yet. I can't even get Lexus Service Dept tell me what oil they've put into the car!!!!

I can't believe how cheap you guys can pick up tires for! I need a new set of fronts and nearly everywhere I've gone have been quoted in the high $400's for Maxx, Maxx TT, and even the Eagle F1 Asy. Most places have recommended I go for the Pirellis which I'm told are better tires for around the $400 mark or just under. I'd prefer to stick with the Dunlops seeing the rears are still the SP Sport Maxx, but I'd love to know why Sydney prices are so cheap compared to Melbourne.

I get this "almost stall" thing happening once in a blue moon. Kind of scary when it's happening - feels as if the car is about to stall, then quickly back to normal, as if nothing happened. Good to see I wasn't the only one. I'm not 100% sure, but I think it's more likely to happen when I'm accelerating hard at one moment, and quickly coming to a stop the next. Problem is I've never been able to replicate it when trying to bring it on. It just happens on occasion, and out of the blue.

Only time will tell. Until then, write both the service manager and your previous contact at Lexus Aus. to ask why the task wasn't performed as per your previous discussions, and let them know you're very dissapointed that it wasn't. Ensure the letter is written more as a "request for response" rather than a rant. Hopefully, they'll respond.

Have you kept correspondence records? Or was all your dealings done in person or by phone? If you've kept correspondence, you'll at least be able to press the case if problems continue past the warrantee period. It still wont guarantee they'll attend to it after the warrantee period expires (seeing they can always say that the origional problem was remedied, but a new and un-related problem has then occured), but it'll give you a much better shot at it.

After I first drove the car and found that the lights turned on as soon as I drove under a bridge a couple of times, I've decided not to use the auto-on anymore. It drove me crazy.

Hope this helps.

I'm with you all the way with this one illusivedreams. Servicing intervals have become a crucial part of the sales-package nowadays. Any manufacturer who'd dare recommend changing the oil after the first 5000km or re-introduce 10,000km intervals would surely be committing commercial suicide with their new car sales. Even if they did recommend it, they wouldn't dare say it. Oil has evolved over the last few years - but not by that much! All your points have been correct in my views. I don't intend to keep the car after the warranty period runs out, hence not caring about replacing the oil more regularly. Dumping a bunch of "long-life" additives to oil isn't necessarily the be-all-and-end-all. (kind of like adding extra preservatives into our food - yummy... not.) Bear in mind that Lexus engines are world-renown for their "gentleness" on oils and the larger than normal sump for a 2.5 ltr motor ensures you're unlikely to run out between intervals. Factory oil change intervals vary from country to country as well. I think I read somewhere that the U.S. interval for the IS250 is 5000miles. You know the motor will love you for it, it's not going to cost you much - just do it! p.s. What type of oil will you be putting in? OEM or something different? What spec??

How come no-one has posted regarding possible ghost/alien interference yet Anyway, at least no one has ruled it out as yet.

18s on mine, speedo seems dead accurate. Tested using sat nav. BTW My 18s are 225/40 and 255/40. The fronts (225) have a lower profile than the rears. The "40" (or whatever other number your tyre is) is relative to the tyre width, not the rim size.

...wasn't really necessary. Could have gone straight into: Hope someone can help you out. There's probably thousands of people who'd love to know how to do it too. :)

Normally, carbon is burnt during combustion and passes out the car's "rear end" as carbon dioxide. Seeing these exhaust gasses are rich in carbon (which may include some carbon which is not totally burnt) they leave deposits on everything they touch (hence the black inside your tail pipes). Unlike the carbon built up inside the cylinder which can usually be removed by re-combusting it (pedel-to-the-metal does a great job! You can also add some products into the fuel which will encourage the carbon to burn), there is nothing to clean out the tail pipe. Personally, I like my tail pipes black, not grey - and I like the chrome tips shiny! :D