Iggy

I ended up buying the same intake from Japan and I love it, the sound coming out of it after 3500rpm is very throaty...make you want to drive the car at those revs all the time. Below that it is very quite and refined just the way I like it.

just make sure you get 2 x 1l cans, as you will need approx. 1.1l of oil.

I changed the all the rotors and installed bendix brakes front and back last year and they were squealing when you are just about to stop + they had a good bite but it was too much for me compared to OEM it lost its smoothness. Changed over to OEM and no issues what so ever (well....except dust) .

I was using a Nulon 5-30w (changing oil every 12 months) and the same was happening to me, now I have switched to Toyota 5-30W (mineral i think) every 6 months and it looks promising after 3k. Also I noticed you used 6l, you need around 6.3l of oil to fill her up (inc Filter) so I suspect you may have under filled a little initially.

Acceptable time lag when engaging a gear: Time lag: N → D less than 1.2 seconds Time lag: N → R less than 1.5 seconds

mine also does that and it always did for the lat 5 years....I just assumed its normal...about 1/2 sec delayed response.

i got mine from battery world liverpool, they helped me choose a correct battery.

my 2 cents....just looking at it, the unit is for a left hand drive since the temp buttons are on the wrong side?

i had RDA rotors and bendix pads and the setup was to grabby and not progressive. It was good for confidence, less dust but bad for smooth driving. I changed back to OEM pads and the pedal feel is a lot better but the dust is back...

just remember that the paint on the lexus is very soft. if there are no scratches on the car the dent removal guys can do with easy assuming that he can get a little access behind the panel. (thats my 2 cents) I hit a garage wall on the same spot and had to get it repainted.....regret it to this day (damn you capital SMART)

I am not an expert and just a home diy guy but I have done some internet research and most suggest that glazing is the probable cause. The downside none agree on a solution, some suggest regrinding the rotors and replacing with new pads others light sanding the pads and/or both. Also some pads could have a little more metal in their pads which are more prone to grinding/squeaking .

is the grinding noise occurring when the car is about to stop completely? The pads could be glazed if they weren't bedded properly.

sorry to resurrect a dead thread, I had a similar experience of uneven/almost shuddering feel after replacing the rotors and pads. It was weird because there was none of that when braking harder only when normal pressure is applied. I took apart the whole rotors and pads and found nothing wrong but discovered that the pins were not sliding very smoothly, one side was almost ceased completely. I took them out cleaned and applied brake pin grease and what a difference it made. The braking is progressive and smooth like it was when I first bought the car. I have changed brakes/rotors on all my cars for the past 15 years but none needed pin lubrication, so I learned a lesson here and maybe someone can learn from my mistakes and lubricate pin every time.

The reason I asked I have the same rattle from time to time and my car is out of warranty. It has gone better since I changed the oil recently but still there at times.

have they ever done a recall on that rattle issue?