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Rural last won the day on April 26 2017

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  1. Looks like the main GPS data files are identical to v22. Looks like there's a version.txt file that you can put whatever you like into it - that's what comes up on the car GPS as the version number - could call it anything. That file was created on the 25th of Jan 2017 in this v23 version where the original V22 file was 7th of March 2015. So it looks like they started working on v22 back in March 2015!
  2. If you have an ISO that is too large to burn on a single layer DVD-R, here's how to shrink it to fit with common freely available utilities... - Use 7-ZIP to expand the original too large ISO to a directory. - Delete files from that directory that you may not want. Point of Interest files can be opened with notepad to see what they cover. (E.g. POISR008.IDX and POISR009.IDX are NZ North and South Islands; TOYOTA_EGA and TOYOTA_VGA image directories are not needed for Lexus) - Use ImgBurn with default settings and the default automatic speed of AWS to burn the contents of the directory that now fit on a single layer Disk
  3. Just sat down and there's a massive crack..... no, not that crack! It was the snapping sound of the smart key card in my wallet. Postmortem showed the power traces and the surface mount resistors were cut where it cracked. Not going to be able to fix that. I love not having keys and only needing my wallet with me (with the smart card in it). So where's the best place to buy a replacement from? Am I on the ebay hunt or is there a better option? I don't have to worry about the physical key as that didn't break, but I imagine I'm going to have to figure out how to program whatever card I buy to the car and figure that out??? Any advice there - easy to do? software needed? or something for the a dealer? If I buy second hand will I be able to program an existing code to my car or are they linked to the original car and not re-writable? I've got the HYQ14AEB style card which I think is the same frequency as the HYQ14ACX card. I'm pretty sure all the other cards have a different frequency and won't work?
  4. Just to save others searching and for some detail on burning a backup copy of the navigation DVD... The ISO is slightly larger than a single lager DVD can handle (4.7G) so from what I can tell you have some choices to sort that out.... - Use a Double layer disc as it can hold 8.5G. There are reports of both +R and -R DL discs working, but as bazzle mentioned above +R may not work for this ISO. There's a layer break boundary, so I assume the original ISO MDS was created from a -R disc and that set the layer boundry to the size of a -R disc which is slightly larger than a +R. You should be able to change the layer boundary with ImgBurn and get it working. - Use DVD-R which doesn't complain when you Overburn it to try to squeeze extra in or truncate it (You can't do this with a DVD+R disc). - Some people say to edit the ISO and delete the Loading.KWI file which is 330MB and brings the DVD image in under 4.7G. - Use DVD shrink to remove empty space that is often inserted into DVDs to make them of a size that is harder to copy DVD-Rs are cheap compared to a double layer disc (and I didn't have a DL disc handy), so I tried a single layer DVD-R, overburning failed, but truncating worked and the disc loads in the car without issue. Whatever it truncated off is obviously not something that it's needed when it loaded the maps. The Windows 10 built in burning software complained and wouldn't do it, but ImgBurn had no issues with offering to truncate it.