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karoonga

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Posts posted by karoonga

  1. I purchased a set of Bilstein coilovers to suit Aristo and after fitting them found them to be extremely rattly particularly the rear. Does anyone know if rebuild parts are available readily and is this a job for a specialist. Any help appreciated!

    My Aristo arrived with 245 low profile tyres at front and 265 at the rear. Is this commonplace with the imports. I have since picked up a second set ( different brand) from Japan as spares, as the Italian made OZ Racing wheels are so light that I have had to have welding repairs due to cracking in the rims- once detected only after a slow leak was found. I am not sure what the standard wheels are like but the handling with the wide low profile tyres is superb.

  2. My son bought my Aristo for me in Japan. I did the compliancing. This involved fitting new coil springs which were ordered by Lexus in Adelaide and were here in about 2 weeks.( vehicle was rather low due to cut down springs) A few coloured light bulbs had to be replaced and baby seat mount fitted. All in all a very simple compliance compared to the MX5 and 300ZX's which I have done. Twin turbo models may be more of a problem perhaps. I have had no other expenses to date. Vehicle has travelled 126,000kms.

  3. Greetings,

    I am the first to admit that I am in love with my Aristo. However, when it comes time to look for a new one I must say that I will be a little more wiser. I have only had it for about 2 months and already I have spent a small fortune since.

    Obviously there are a few ways of ways to buy a grey import like the Aristo. Privately, through a dealer who has imported and complied it and doing all of that stuff yourself. This was my first import so I took the dealer path. I guess not a bad option but there were of course pluses and minuses.

    Try to have a couple of grand set aside in addition to your landed and complied costs and registration etc. The complience place, whoever they may be, are really only willing to get the car OK'ed for roadworthy. Just like any 2nd hand car dealer really. If they can avoid spending extra money I believe most of them will. You may be almost due for new plugs for example, or a new timing belt. Sure they put oil in it and do a basic service, but are you prepared to trust what oil went in it etc? Maybe you are, but be prepared for dealing with shortcuts performed along the way. Brake pads may be another example as they may be roadworthy but due to be replaced in 5,000km. Don't forget also that this is car is a 'special car' that needs special attention, so you may choose those 'special brake pads and not just the OEM ones. There you go, you have just doubled the price of your pads!

    On the Aristo, make sure you get your suspension and steering checked out. These are common to be worn and cost thousands depending on how far you wish to go. Most people have gone for the HSD coilovers as they are about $1350- plus fitting and I have heard that the Toyota genuine strut replacement cost is astronomical. One of the reasons th strut are so expensive is that the Aristo uses an electronic setup in which when the power button is pressed the suspension stiffens up to a degree. (Obviously, This would not be utilized if you got coilovers).

    Steering rack ends, wheel bearings etc.

    Watch for oil leaks, my main seal is leaking slightly, the only way to fix it is to pull out the gearbox.

    If you get the opportunity to have the vehicle before complience, try to get it checked out by a qualified mechanic first and then give the complience blokes the list of things that need to be done. At least give it a go.

    All this even before getting that shiny new boost guage or turbo timer. While I think of it, make sure you get an alarm or immobilizer that is compatible with turbo timers if that is what you want to do later. (Turbo timers are not exactly legal). I had an immobilizer fitted at the time of purchase and now have to upgrade it to use a timer!

    Overall the car is great, but it is still an 11 year old car regardless of it having low milage, so expect to pay a few dollars to get it up to scratch after your initial purchase. Something I did not fully discover until now. I think the low milage thing and the shiny well looked after paintwork blinded me and I failed to look at it as a secondhand vehicle to some degree.

    Happy Aristo'ing!

    Chris

  4. Greetings,

    I am the first to admit that I am in love with my Aristo. However, when it comes time to look for a new one I must say that I will be a little more wiser. I have only had it for about 2 months and already I have spent a small fortune since.

    Obviously there are a few ways of ways to buy a grey import like the Aristo. Privately, through a dealer who has imported and complied it and doing all of that stuff yourself. This was my first import so I took the dealer path. I guess not a bad option but there were of course pluses and minuses.

    Try to have a couple of grand set aside in addition to your landed and complied costs and registration etc. The complience place, whoever they may be, are really only willing to get the car OK'ed for roadworthy. Just like any 2nd hand car dealer really. If they can avoid spending extra money I believe most of them will. You may be almost due for new plugs for example, or a new timing belt. Sure they put oil in it and do a basic service, but are you prepared to trust what oil went in it etc? Maybe you are, but be prepared for dealing with shortcuts performed along the way. Brake pads may be another example as they may be roadworthy but due to be replaced in 5,000km. Don't forget also that this is car is a 'special car' that needs special attention, so you may choose those 'special brake pads and not just the OEM ones. There you go, you have just doubled the price of your pads!

    On the Aristo, make sure you get your suspension and steering checked out. These are common to be worn and cost thousands depending on how far you wish to go. Most people have gone for the HSD coilovers as they are about $1350- plus fitting and I have heard that the Toyota genuine strut replacement cost is astronomical. One of the reasons th strut are so expensive is that the Aristo uses an electronic setup in which when the power button is pressed the suspension stiffens up to a degree. (Obviously, This would not be utilized if you got coilovers).

    Steering rack ends, wheel bearings etc.

    Watch for oil leaks, my main seal is leaking slightly, the only way to fix it is to pull out the gearbox.

    If you get the opportunity to have the vehicle before complience, try to get it checked out by a qualified mechanic first and then give the complience blokes the list of things that need to be done. At least give it a go.

    All this even before getting that shiny new boost guage or turbo timer. While I think of it, make sure you get an alarm or immobilizer that is compatible with turbo timers if that is what you want to do later. (Turbo timers are not exactly legal). I had an immobilizer fitted at the time of purchase and now have to upgrade it to use a timer!

    Overall the car is great, but it is still an 11 year old car regardless of it having low milage, so expect to pay a few dollars to get it up to scratch after your initial purchase. Something I did not fully discover until now. I think the low milage thing and the shiny well looked after paintwork blinded me and I failed to look at it as a secondhand vehicle to some degree.

    Happy Aristo'ing!

    Chris

  5. After towing a trailer with an intermittent earthing problem, I was pulled over by victoria's finest and informed i had no rear lights. I agreed to continue on with hazard lights until I could have the problem sorted. On re-starting the car i could not select gears , the result of a blown fuse which was eventually found. Since then I have checked all fuses and they all seem ok. The number plate light works and upper (eye) level brake also still works so I guess they operate surprisingly on another circuit. Has any one had a similar problem? if there is some sort of relay or resistance sensor that has failed, then will it be quicker for me to just jump wires from the parkers and brakes respectively and disconnect the little dash warning light that constantly informs me of light bulb failure. Any help appreciated.

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