Bowen Yong
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Posts posted by Bowen Yong
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thats horrible! guess i will definitly supply my own oil next time
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Update: just had my brakes installed today, and to me, there is no discernible difference between the Bendix General CT pads and the OEM brake pads. I certainly did not have any of the issues described by Bowen Yong.
Update on my GCT, ummm well after about 500KM of using pads, i think its working better now, about 90% similar to OEM pads i suppose. I guess i owe bendix an apology for the bad mouthing LOLS
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Thanks Bowen :)
Here's my action plan: Take it to Lexus and supply my own Spark plugs (from Manukau Toyota $115) and supply my own engine oil. I think I'll save some $$ and still have full Lexus service history this way.
And hoping that they'll give me is350 for replacement car hahaha
Is Mobil1 5-30w the one should I buy?
I think so, it is factory recommended viscosity, however i've seen people using 0-40W just so their engine oil can last longer, none the less always asked your dealer if ur not sure, good luck!
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My is250 90k service is coming up soon too, Contacted Lexus City Melb and Lexus Blackburn they both quoted around $1300 mark.....expensive :(
But I guess it worth doing it on the dealership for the sake Luxus service history? and the quality as well?
Alternatively I now a guy had a workshop specialised in Jap car, preety sure he can do it way cheaper.
Any toughts / input guys?
It's nice to the dealer to do it cos you can have rental car for 6 hour maybe even 1 day, sometimes they give you the is350 which is a blast to drive. Word of advice, supply your own engine oil, I find the lexus motor oil is pretty *BLEEP*ty as it goes down quickly and engine is a bit loud...I'd suggest Mobil 1..don't use castrol, I think the dealer use castrol which is not really good for lexus tbh...
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Bendix CT pads are not as good when compared to the OEM pads, i changed to it today, and i was like what the hell happened to my brake, the brake pedal feels soft during hard brake and the difference is definitely noticeable!
*BLEEP*, my friend told me to get Bendix GCT instead of the EBC Redstuff as he said I wouldn't need it... What are your opinions?
Also if you went EBC would you get redstuff or greenstuff? Going with DBA Slotted rotors too... I heard the pads can wear the rotors quicker? :S I have no idea what to get anymore
Thats what my mechanic said as well! Dont listen to him, get the Red Stuff and pair it with EBC USR slotted rotor! Red stuff is the least dusty, but the only thing is that i heard that it might squeals but thats the issue with any performance pads though.
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@bigdenis: so ultimate is also no good as well? which pads would you suggest? (less squeal and less dusty, and performs)
Bowen Yong, I have no idea on which pads are good. It's just generally well known that the Bendix Ultimates are dusty - a Bendix rep had said this in a Ford forum: http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=3943692
Are Bendix brake pads dusty? Is Bendix heavy duty a better option, for member who requires less dust?
As a whole, Bendix brake pads are very specifically NOT dusty. That is, we have our mainstream product line, General CT, which is not dusty. I think it's really important to squash any talk of "Bendix is dusty", because our core product absolutely isn't. On the other hand, Ultimate is dusty. Brake dust is mostly made up of rotor iron.
I should add that I just bought the Bendix General CT yesterday and will have them installed on Tuesday. I'm a pretty sedate driver, so the Ultimates were just overkill for me. The General CTs were inexpensive, and besides, I hate the how dusty the OEM pads are.
Overall, I purchased the following:
2x DBA2726S (DBA Slotted Rotors) $330.00
DB1852GCT (Bendix Front General CT Brake Pads) $82.00
DB1854GCT (Bendix Rear General CT Brake Pads) $82.00
Total: $494.00
You've got yourself a pretty sweet deal! The place i went they charged me $630 in total, that includes the slotted front rotors, front pads and labour fees. Anyways let me know what you think after you install the CT pads. Because unlike Bluey's experience, i've got really bad feel with these pads, pretty much soft brake feeling. Now i kinda suspect that the mechanic did something shifty, maybe installed a cheaper pads who knows. I guess lesson to be learnt here is that dont trust people too easy
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Hey all!
Apparently my rotors and pads need replacing soon (lexus said) so Im slowly looking into it.
Sounds like DBA + EBC pads are the way to go? Where would be the best please to get these? Repco?
I went to Repco and Supercheap Auto and Autobuhn, they only sell Bendix CT or Ultimate, for EBC pads you gotta go brake and clutch specialist places, be sure to know your stuff and make sure that they install the right product cos sometimes shifty mechanics can switch the pads. @bigdenis: so ultimate is also no good as well? which pads would you suggest? (less squeal and less dusty, and performs)
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The general CT pads does not require to be bedded (from Bendix Website) and the mechanic guy told me that he already bedded it anyway thats why it almost took all day to get it done. The feel of the brake pedal is very different, if you suddenly brake, these pads does not give you the instant stopping power like what the OEM pads does rather, you need to pump the brake really really hard for that sort of braking power. And theres a significant difference in braking distance, you can feel it! It take much further to come to a complete stop with some hard pumping. The car's brake feels so soft after the change. Maybe it does require more time to adjust? I will update this in the future. These pads are not all negative though, it does offer much much quieter and smooth braking, theres no hard grinding or squeal at all but whatever it is i should have gotten the Bendix Ultimate or something better. It was just a bad decision in going for convenience and lack of research that lead to all these frustration.
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Bendix CT pads are not as good when compared to the OEM pads, i changed to it today, and i was like what the hell happened to my brake, the brake pedal feels soft during hard brake and the difference is definitely noticeable!
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Just had mine done today, got the DBA slotted rotor with the Bendix General CT pads. And i was surprised to the fact that these pads are pretty *BLEEP* compare to OEM, the whole braking experience feels more softer and not sharp like the OEM brake pads and i am definitely not happy with this. I was really going for the Bendix ultimate but the mechanic guy said it was too dusty, now i am in remorse. next time maybe
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Why did you choose the 350 over the 300h ?
IS300h has a CVT, and a 2.5L 4 cyclinder engine. In reality though nobody likes CVT except older people
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From my experience Castrol is rubbish, the Edge Titianium goes down fast and the engine is especially loud compare to Mobil. In my opinion Mobil is pretty good! Definitely will supply my own Mobil oil next time i go for service.
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Hi all,
i am looking to buy some brake pads for the IS250X, does any of you have some tips in regards to what to chose and what not? i am really looking to buy pads that are less noisy then the OEM and good braking power and pedal feel. Anyone any suggestion?
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Actually my oil goes down really fast lately, I am running around 6000km since my last service and I checked my oil level, it is just above the first dot which means low...is this normal?
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Driven my mates MY11 E90 320i, it's very underpowered and underequiped for the price. He also driven my 6yrs old IS250 and he can't beleive just how better on everything my car is.
At the end of the day, we live in an increasingly materialised society, people are more conscious on brands that can give them a "better" image.
In some Asian cultures it's even worse, the car you drive becomes an explicit status symbol, hence those under-educated uni kids show-off their over-priced vanilla bimmers.
I have great respect on BMW, but I'd take IS over a South Africa built 320i anyday.
If it's the 335i then it might be a different story...
You'd be surprised! In China, most people dont really buy BMWs although it's gone so much cheaper since the 3 series and 5 series is actually made in China not imported and the same goes with Audi, and Merc. I think the perception of a brand really depend on the level of education of a person's background and the history. If a person has a low level of education, the power of a well marketed brand is significant in making purchase deicisions.
I love the styling of 335i coupe, but i dont know if i will choose it over an IS350 in long run. And to me the e90 interior looks really boring. But if u ask me to choose between an ISF and M3, i'd be a fool not to choose the M3.
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am getting an Evoque due to a change in circumstances..bybye lexus ISF :(
Evoque is a great car! A lot of good reviews! you might also wanna consider the Q5, My dad has it, very smooth and comfy! and the panoramic sunroof is amazing! but maintenance cost is relative high, it requires it every 5000km just like every other german cars.
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I dont mean to generalise but bimmer owners are the biggest show offs at my uni..Especially kids who owns their e90 320i, they just have to put their keys on the table in class for everyone to see, and its almost like that with every bmw owners( not to generalise, and not talking about down to earth type owners). The worst type are those fanboys who cant afford anything and they goes online and making nasty comments about the IS250, saying stuff like its boring, its a car for granny, it shares parts from a camary, stuff that's pure hate instead of constructive criticism. Its just stupid how they dont know what its like and they make a snap judgement based on badge. I am sure 3 series are great cars that has been glorified but it nvr did that much appeal for me to buy one. To me its very overrated! The e90 320i has the same price as IS250 significantly underpowered, multiple reliability issues, horrible looking interior and no comment on the exterior..and wow i am turning into a hater from these people.
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I only owned one car so far my 07 Lexus IS250, its my first car and its a great great car, love it so much! In the future when i graduate and get a proper job, i was hoping to get an Audi A6 3.0 TFSI supercharged Biturbo, Dual clutch S-tronic! It look so sexy and at the same time, so exhilarating with all the tech and power offered! and did i mention the 16 speaker bang and olufsen sound system?! its just great! GTR seems like a great option as well if i am ever gonna be successful. My dream car is a red Audi R8 Spyder V10 Plus! God bless!
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Yes it sounds like air in the coolant. Mine needed bleeding to eliminate the gurgling noise.
How much did it cost you to fix the gurgling noise? its quite annoying, mine sounds like a short fart coming from AC vents, and it happens infrequently. DId they mention what was the issue? I think my coolant cap is leaking, cos around the cap theres pink stuff
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its normal, cos the IS has high compression ratio of 12:1 which means it heats up quite easily due to high pressure direct injection, this cos engine to heat up quite easily
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Hi everyone,
I just bought my first Lexus ever (2008 IS250) less than 2 month ago! Whilst I’m pretty happy with the car, but something is really annoying me!
Occasional and intermittent Ticking/Rattling/Tapping Noise at start up!!!! (just happened 3-4 times since 1 month ago and NONE of them happened at the cold start!)
I know there were well know problem of rattling noise at the cold start for pre-07 models which apparently the problem was faulty VVT hub or something like that and it was a TSB published regarding this problem. BUT mine is 2008 model (apparently they already fixed the problem after 07!) and never happened at the cold start!
I bought the vehicle second hand from Lexus dealership and will run out of statuary warranty soon (2 weeks), I tried to convince them about the problem but since it’s occasional, then I couldn’t replicate the problem at Lexus dealership and prove it to them!
I tried to capture it on tape but no success yet. They are refusing to fix the problem
The sound is more like a very rapid clicking (like switching noise - something (electronic?) is switching in the engine bay rapidly for less than second or trying to switch) which happen when the speedometer & tachometer needles getting close to the end range. I checked if the noise coming from needless or not , but the actual noise coming from the engine bay or somewhere behind the dash.
The sound is very similar to the clicking sound of engine if someone try to start it with dried battery (but this clicking sound is much faster and happens when the engine already started running) - i tried my best to explain this strange sound
the period of the sound is sometime just one click/rattle after start up and sometimes 4-5 click/rattle after start-up(which all happens in less than second)
Also,
Another intermittent and occasional problem is water gurgling (bubbling noise) sound coming from behind the dash and more frequent in hot days. This problem is also very intermittent and occasional and happens in start (NOT necessarily cold start). My research end up with possible water-pump problem or coolant air-lock (just saying as I'm definitely not an expert or mechanic!).
I desperately appreciate your help!
Any idea? How can I prove it to them? I sold my PUG407 and bought a Lexus to live a hassle free life! Cannot afford another challenge and fight for this one again!
Please tell me how to handle this problem or better to sell this
! I’m so fussy and spent heaps of $ to rectify numerous problems on my previous car and don’t have neither money nor energy for this one!
thanks mates!
my car recently started to have that water gurgling noise now and then too! It almost sound like a fart sometimes, its very weird. It only happened after i got my car serviced, and i dont think it's the water pump cos if that happens, the dealer should've told me about it during the service. My theory is that theres some air in the coolant in which it needs to be let out or something. But if its serious for you i suggest you to have your dealer inspect your car, that way u can have some reassurance about the issue and deal with it before it gets big. and don't worry, the IS250 is still a very reliable car, i am sure if u buy another car a lot of problems can happen thats much more of a headache then Lexus.
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thats a lot of issues, seem like the previous owner didnt take a good care of the car at all
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yeah i was thinking that as well! wondering what sort of motor oil do they use. I am pretty sure it is fully synthetic, i meant they cant put like semi synthetic motor oil in your car and not tell you about it. i would never agree to that. i heard mobil 1 is pretty good with Lexus. I might ask this question next time i do my service
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Shiver At Idle
in Lexus IS250 / Lexus IS250C / Lexus IS350 / Lexus IS350C Club / Lexus IS-F / IS300h
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i read this somewhere in the owner's manual, it says that sometimes the engine will knock under rapid braking from high rev or heavy braking from going up a hill, the manual says its normal.