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Driving Light


Golden Eye

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Hello,

Golden Eye here,

Has any one managed to fit a LED light bar or driving lights to an NX300 and get it to work according to Victorian road laws? Mine is a 2017 make with LED lights all round. I have managed to get the LED light bar to function with out any errors showing, but at this stage I cannot control it with the high / low dip switch. I thought I had found the appropriate fuse to tap into in the engine bay fuse box on the LHS. What I presumed was the correct fuse is not part of high beam through the the dip switch.

Can anyone help me find the correct fuse, or wire that I need to tap into to gain control of the light bar, so it is legally wired?

Any help, support or directions will be gratefully appreciated,

Golden Eye

 

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  • 7 months later...

I have Xenons in mine but I also have not yet had a look how thay are wired.

What I have done in the past is find the wiring loom to the lights and isolate out the one with 12v on it when lights (high beam) is on. I then use that wire to feed a 12v relay .

The relay has its 12v power line from battery/fuse box . The other side of relay contacts go to the aux lights.

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Hi Darren And Bazzle,

The NX300 proved to be very challenging to fit driving lights. Like Bazzle, in the past I have found a high beam light wire and used it to run a relay to link in the driving lights. The challenge proved to be the CANBUS electrical system that runs LED headlights. An excellent mechanic and I tried finding a high beam fuse, but there wasn't one, and to make it worse, there are two sets of fuses under the bonnet that are identical. I ended up buying an XBB kit that uses a dongle in the OBD2 terminal to read the high and low beam lights on. This was then programmed to send a Bluetooth signal to a Relay under the bonnet and this is called a power unit. With this Swedish unit the driving lights synchronised with the vehicle high / low beam and worked perfectly except for one thing, I could not turn the driving light off and just use the NX high beam. To overcome this issue, and to make the driving lights operate legally, I then bought an XBB Smart Button to link in with the dongle and permit turning off the driving light and still maintain the NX high beam. This button also turns the driving light back on when the NBX lights are on high beam. With this system there is no wiring done inside the vehicle and the relay (power unit) is wired in exactly as you would wire in any normal relay for for lights. If you are interested in learning more about the XBB system, do a search for XBB. I cannot insert the link as this dialogue box will not permit me to. There is Swan Hill firm the markets the bits and its name is Ultra Vision Sales. The NX300 high beam lights are now fabulous, not just good as they used to be. Another advantage to the XBB system, is that you can easily take the important bits with you and program them into another vehicle that has CANBUS lights.

Golden Eye

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Thankyou so much for this invaluable information. Can I ask was it easy to get the signal in the canbus system that operates the high beam. 

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41 minutes ago, Darren said:

Thankyou so much for this invaluable information. Can I ask was it easy to get the signal in the canbus system that operates the high beam. 

 

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Hello Darren,

Nice to hear from you. Once the XBB Power Unit (Bluetooth Relay) is installed and the driving light/s are attached and tested, you insert The XBB dongle into the OBD2 connection. Explicit instructions come with the kit and you will need to download the app to your phone. You need to log into XBB, and will be guided through the process of selecting the make and model, and how to test it for correct function. Now Darren, I am a seventy three dinosaur, and I managed first time. Programming the 'Smart Switch was a fair bit more difficult, but I contacted the trouble-shooting section of XBB, explained what I was after, and got an instant response from the guy who invented this system. This took a while to sort out, mainly because some of the language and wording is different than what we use in Australia on computers and smart phones. In hindsight, I may not have installed the smart switch. I believe if a mechanical switch is put in between the relay output and the light/s it would do the same task, only for a much lower cost. Only problem is you need to 'mouse' a figure 8 wire into the vehicle for the switch, I found a big grommet behind the brake master cylinder. Finding an appropriate spot for switch is a challenge. The spot on the RHS of the steering column looks like a perfect as it looks like there is a 'dummy' switch cover, but it isn't! There is some complex electrical work attached on the rear RHS of this cover. I experimented with a hole in the LHS of the 'dummy switch cover' for a switch in the early stage of trying to wire the lights in though the fuse box, The switch fitted worked, but when this system failed, the switch and associated wiring was removed and I made a cover to hide the hole I put in the dummy switch cover. It was here that I decided to go with the XBB system. I hope this rambling makes sense to you Darren.

Golden Eye

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Peter,

What a great post about the XBB kit from Ultra Vision in Swan Hill.  Could you please tell me where you sourced 12V power for your driving lights?  Was it directly from jump start terminal in Fusebox in engine bay?   I have installed Ultra Vision 7 inch diameter Nitro Maxx 80 driving lights behind grille of brand new NX450h+ and I have just ordered the XBB kit.  I will submit photos & details to this forum when installation is complete. 

With thanks,                                                                                                                  Neil    

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Hello Neil,

Great to hear from you. With the XBB kit you get the Dongle which plugs into the OBD2 plug, and the Power Unit, which is a Bluetooth relay that goes under the bonnet close to where the Dongle is situated. The kit comes with all the instructions needed. I sourced the 12 volt positive supply direct from the battery, with an inline fuse fitted the next size up to what the driving lights current draw is. Say your lights draw ten amps, then I would fit a fifteen amp fuse to protect the system. By sourcing direct from the battery, you do not get any significant current drop off, as long as your wires are suited to the current draw. I also ran the negative wire to the Power unit from the battery. The wiring was relatively easy but longest part of the exercise. If you have wired in a relay previously, then you will find it an easy task. I will strongly recommend you get and use relay base for the Power unit, it makes it much easier.

I hope this helps you out Neil,

Regards Peter

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