Bluey

Have a look at KYB shocks from the US. Much cheaper than purchasing OEM

Hi Trev

I took mine to pedders and they have told me my rear shocks are buggered, after a series of checks/tests, and need replacing. Apparently everything else is ok.

Maybe get the service team to check them

Hi Learningman

Did you get this sorted? I have been told my shocks are shot and need replacing. Pedders quoted $980 for a pair Koni's fitted, including 4 wheel alignment. $770 for the shockers, then labour and alignment etc.

Apparently they rang Lexus for OEM part pricing and were quoted $660 each. ouch

Thanks Trev.

I'll do some investigating of my own. Mine feels like a heavier clunk than I would expect from a park brake shoe, but is definitely an easier fix than pulling out the suspension if I don't need to.

That's interesting Trev. Just wondering when you noticed the clunk? I am getting it over potholes and manhole covers that sit below the road level. Was yours the same?

Hi Lex

Yes, standard suspension, and all they told me is that it was at the top end so it's hard to get to. I think it is a bush or similar, but can't be sure.

Thinking of going to pedders or similar and getting suspension people to give me a better idea.

Hi All

My 07 250SL is giving a clunk noise from the left rear suspension every time I go over a pothole, rough ground etc. Has anyone else experienced this?

I took it my Lexus service team and was told it is only minor and not a hazard, or dangerous to the integrity of the car, and If I really want it gone they would charge about $2000!!!

I haven't taken it anywhere else for a check as yet, but wondering if anyone else has experienced this and what was the outcome.

TIA

Yes. Only downside is the lack of control from the steering wheel.

I have an App that I use when the phone is in it's cradle. It plays music in a full screen mode (can easily see artist and cover art) and allows you to easily swipe left or right if you want to advance to next song, or go back.

I bought a blackberry bluetooth stereo gateway that I have connected into the audio input in the arm rest. The whole unit and power supply sits in there out of the way. Whenever I start the car it automatically pairs to my phone and is available via the AUX button on the sound system. I have had this working for the last 3 years on my 2007 IS.

Autobarn for DBA rotors and Bendix pads

The general CT pads does not require to be bedded (from Bendix Website) and the mechanic guy told me that he already bedded it anyway thats why it almost took all day to get it done. The feel of the brake pedal is very different, if you suddenly brake, these pads does not give you the instant stopping power like what the OEM pads does rather, you need to pump the brake really really hard for that sort of braking power. And theres a significant difference in braking distance, you can feel it! It take much further to come to a complete stop with some hard pumping. The car's brake feels so soft after the change. Maybe it does require more time to adjust? I will update this in the future. These pads are not all negative though, it does offer much much quieter and smooth braking, theres no hard grinding or squeal at all but whatever it is i should have gotten the Bendix Ultimate or something better. It was just a bad decision in going for convenience and lack of research that lead to all these frustration.

Hi Bowen

I certainly did not have this experience. I changed the rotors and pads myself, and even when first installed did not have to pump the brakes at any stage, let alone after they were 'bedded in', and that is also using the standard DBA rotor, not slotted or drilled. The brakes have not felt any different under foot, or in stopping distance, to the OEM. I hope yours have settled down and your need to pump the brake has gone.

Just had mine done today, got the DBA slotted rotor with the Bendix General CT pads. And i was surprised to the fact that these pads are pretty *BLEEP* compare to OEM, the whole braking experience feels more softer and not sharp like the OEM brake pads and i am definitely not happy with this. I was really going for the Bendix ultimate but the mechanic guy said it was too dusty, now i am in remorse. next time maybe

They won't have had a chance bed in this quickly. I have the same pads with the DBA non slotted rotors and found them to be just as good as the OEM's once they had a short period of bedding in.

So I started looking at a a 370 skyline sedan, new 350, used s4's an s6 (v10 loving!) 335 sedans and convertibles, 550, cls500 My budget was around the 60k mark. The idea was to get something that I could cart the kids around in occasionally.

Dare I suggest looking at the Volvo s60. Took one for a spin and was very impressed.

I am now struggling with the concept of possibly buying a Volvo. It's a very hard sell to myself, but the car was better in price and performance than almost anything else in the price range.

Does anyone know how much fuel is left in the tank when the display reads 0km to empty? I thought I read somewhere it is 8L, but would like confirmation.

looks like an old nokia unit.

May be best to find an installer of these sorts of things and ask them. Someone like an audio installer.

Had car serviced and had them look into this.

They have quoted me about $1200 to fix by replacing the shock absorber and the bush.

They also said it's not too bad (their opinion, they have heard worse!!!) and that they guaranteed there is nothing dangerous about it.

Don't want to part with that much cash, but hate the noise. Any idea how much it would be to fix at say Toyota or another service department??

Atlantis, so you are saying the car will always take off in 1st, except in snow mode? I thought otherwise in certain circumstances.

Samsung, if you have the gear display up then I would expect that to be correct. May need to chat to your service department.

Do you drive in sports mode?

In normal mode the car will usually take off in 2nd if taking it easy so the first change is 2nd to 3rd, but I believe that sports will lead to first gear takeoff leading to a more noticeable gear change to 2nd.

Hopefully that's all it is.

as my question hasnt been asnwered yet

anything done to the car?

modification wise?

Nothing. It has done 60K km, and i have had since new in 2007. Saw a guy this afternoon that put int on a hoist for inspection and could see nothing obviously wrong in the lower suspension area, and suggeted taking it to OEM for checking as they may know of this issue and therefore know what needs to be done.

I have it booked for service later this week, so will get it checked by Lexus then.

Thanks Sapphire

It's a definate clunk/thump, like a mass movement as you put it, and only over potholes when there is a sudden movement of the entire wheel suspension assembly. At least that is what I am noticing.

Car is due for a service so will get Lexus to have a look and tell me what they think. May get an independant opinion first, then will know if the prognosis is the same and what the relative quotes are.

Hi

Lately I have been getting a clunk noise when my left rear wheel goes over a pothole. And we have plenty of those in Adelaide.

I am wondering what it may be and what the likely repair is so I can determine if it's a self fix or dealer/mechanic fix. Is it simply a bush, or likely to be something more sinister?

Anyone had experience with this?

Hi Susie

The seats in the Lexus, if not leather, are alcantara, not velour.

Google "cleaning alcantara seats" and you will see a lot of links to car enthusiast sites that can help answer your question.

Hope that helps.

Hi hmmd

These three are almost mutually exclusive. You cannot have premium performance with exception tyre wear and minimal noise. It will always be a compromise.

I opted for quiet Yokohama av550 tyres. Firstly they are designed to be quiet, and they are. I am happy with the performance, but I don't push this car as hard as I did my WRX, and as such the tyre wear has been good. Very happy with these tyres.

The other consideration was getting the same tyres on all corners which does prove more difficult with the SL sizings.

It's definitely more serious than tyre pressure. Maybe put the old wheels back on to see if it goes away again. If so then it would seem to be the rims/tyres.

Increasing the tyre pressure simply put less tyre on the road by pushing out the centre of the tread. It will likely just shorten tyre life, as will keeping the current alignment/pulling issue.

I was thinking ceramic pads or similar?

Found this http://www.ebcbrakes...rake_pads.shtml

You don't need ceramics to stop the dust. I changed to Bendix CGT and have no more dust issues. Now takes about 3 weeks for them to start looking dirty. But it rarely gets that long between washes, so is no problem for me.