Iggy

I ended up buying the same intake from Japan and I love it, the sound coming out of it after 3500rpm is very throaty...make you want to drive the car at those revs all the time. Below that it is very quite and refined just the way I like it.

just make sure you get 2 x 1l cans, as you will need approx. 1.1l of oil.

I changed the all the rotors and installed bendix brakes front and back last year and they were squealing when you are just about to stop + they had a good bite but it was too much for me compared to OEM it lost its smoothness.

Changed over to OEM and no issues what so ever (well....except dust)
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I was using a Nulon 5-30w (changing oil every 12 months) and the same was happening to me, now I have switched to Toyota 5-30W (mineral i think) every 6 months and it looks promising after 3k. Also I noticed you used 6l, you need around 6.3l of oil to fill her up (inc Filter) so I suspect you may have under filled a little initially.

Acceptable time lag when engaging a gear:

Time lag: N → D less than 1.2 seconds Time lag: N → R less than 1.5 seconds

mine also does that and it always did for the lat 5 years....I just assumed its normal...about 1/2 sec delayed response.

i got mine from battery world liverpool, they helped me choose a correct battery.

my 2 cents....just looking at it, the unit is for a left hand drive since the temp buttons are on the wrong side?

i had RDA rotors and bendix pads and the setup was to grabby and not progressive. It was good for confidence, less dust but bad for smooth driving. I changed back to OEM pads and the pedal feel is a lot better but the dust is back...

just remember that the paint on the lexus is very soft. if there are no scratches on the car the dent removal guys can do with easy assuming that he can get a little access behind the panel. (thats my 2 cents)

I hit a garage wall on the same spot and had to get it repainted.....regret it to this day (damn you capital SMART)

I am not an expert and just a home diy guy but I have done some internet research and most suggest that glazing is the probable cause. The downside none agree on a solution, some suggest regrinding the rotors and replacing with new pads others light sanding the pads and/or both. Also some pads could have a little more metal in their pads which are more prone to grinding/squeaking .

is the grinding noise occurring when the car is about to stop completely? The pads could be glazed if they weren't bedded properly.

sorry to resurrect a dead thread, I had a similar experience of uneven/almost shuddering feel after replacing the rotors and pads. It was weird because there was none of that when braking harder only when normal pressure is applied. I took apart the whole rotors and pads and found nothing wrong but discovered that the pins were not sliding very smoothly, one side was almost ceased completely. I took them out cleaned and applied brake pin grease and what a difference it made. The braking is progressive and smooth like it was when I first bought the car.

I have changed brakes/rotors on all my cars for the past 15 years but none needed pin lubrication, so I learned a lesson here and maybe someone can learn from my mistakes and lubricate pin every time.

The reason I asked I have the same rattle from time to time and my car is out of warranty. It has gone better since I changed the oil recently but still there at times.

have they ever done a recall on that rattle issue?

I bought my rotors from out local parts shop, from memory it was just under $500 for 4 rotors and all the pads. I changed them myself but I remember someone on the forum getting quote around $1800 mark for genuine fitted.

Your rear rotors should be minimum 8.5mm thick and your front rotors more that 25mm. Your pads should have at least 1mm fat on them. I have used RDA rotors with bendix brakes and so far very happy, according to bendix there is not need to bed in these pads?

I am happy to see a little more storage space and 2 cup holders....

I use 5w-30 and have been adding about 0.5-1l of oil between oil changes 10-12k per year

Has anyone notice a change in the fuel reading when they change wheels?

Mine's reading less than i upgraded 10.4L vs 9.6L. Wouldn't it be the opposite going bigger?

I have noticed a difference in tyres, when we had the original Turanza? we used to get under 9 consistently, changed to Pirelli P7 , we struggle to keep it under 10...same roads traveled every day.

I think its always wise to get a NRMA/RACQ etc inspection.

All direct injected engines have little louder that usual injectors so the sound that comes out is similar to the sticky lifters.

I they checked the wheel and tyre balance and rotation and the discs are good, it could be the wheel bearings or possibly worn suspension bushings.

Hi All I just bought a second hand 2006 IS250 in black and very good condition. The car is excellent and love it so much compared to my previous car; 2009 Honda Accord. It is far more superior. No regret in purchasing it.

I have got a couple of questions I hope someone could help me.

1. The service interval for the car is 12 months. I am just curious what sort of oil viscosity and brand do they put in the car? Most of Japanese cars service interval is 6months. I dont like the idea of 12months interval although it is much less hassle.

2. When putting the gear in N with foot-brake engaged (?), opening the door would set off the warning chime on the dash. Is there anyway to turn this warning off?

Thanks.

According to Lexus service sheet:

SAE 5W-30

API grade SM “Energy-Conserving” or

ILSAC*9, multi grade engine oil

I use 5w-30 Nulon , you need 6.3l per oil change with filter.

I have the same issue with my is250, but it does get better when the tyre pressure is on the higher side 35+psi. Worth a try?>