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Peterkay

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Posts posted by Peterkay

  1. 1 hour ago, Jim G said:

    Paid $150 on sale through Sparesbox.

    Man you stole them 😆 well done. 

    I have fitted plenty of Nolethane & Superpro bushes to various vehicles and i really don`t see any difference between the 2. Superpro probably a little stiffer.

    May your lockdown end soon 👊

  2. Ela Jim

    No not on my car yet, it`s only just over 60,000km old so i`m not bothering yet, as for those with a more kms & think they see the need to these are a great option.  Then the Superpro equivalent is more expensive, SPF3491K from Burson retails for $290.00 the kit, possibly cheaper when surfing the net.  If i was looking at replacing mine i would just go with the Nolethane. We have our own business so Repco and Burson are our major suppliers. 

    Hope this helps Jimmy 😀

    I`m on the Facebook Lexus Aus if you want to message me.

    Peter.K

  3. 45853 - NOLATHANE FRONT LOWER CONTROL ARM INNER REAR BUSHING KIT 

    $115.00 from Repco or .......

    Fitting time estimated 2 hours.

    They will do the job just fine.

    And Backed By A Limited Lifetime Warranty.

    Win win 😀😀😀

    Peter.K

  4. Welcome SexyLexy,

    I`m on the GC also. Northern end. This place is usually quite slow ( website ) 

    There is more action on the Lexus AU Facebook page. Search it, it is only for ISF, RCF & GSF.

    Hope this helps.

    Peter.K

    P.S 2013 White ISF, yeah baby ! ! ! ! !

    Owned it for 5 years and always look 🤣🤣🤣

  5. On 4/29/2020 at 3:25 PM, Slopshua said:

    Looks like you still cant get the PS91 in 275/30 off the Kumho website. Shame, probably would've given them crack. I'll probably order new bushings, install first then go with the MPS4S. RR racing USRS at the moment $675 landed.. not cheap but Figs just as expensive. I remember reading somewhere there was an aussie suspension company that had a bushing for the OEM housing that was a cheaper option. Anyone had installed that bushing can share their thoughts? 

    Nolethane do a bush kit, part # 45853. Repco sell them for $115.00 kit/pack. All you have to do is have them fitted. Personally i`ve not done it yet. Although i have set my front toe to 0mm. If i see that i have to do it i will use the Nolethane kit. The superpro kit is a little more expensive. Part # SPF3491K

    Both brands have limited lifetime warranty.

  6.  

    23 hours ago, andymac said:

    Hey Mate 

    Who did the exhaust work for you? I'm looking at header options atm and this sounds like the best value option by far. 

     

    Hi there, 

    It was a exhaust shop here on the Gold Coast that did it for me. We have our own workshop but i don`t do exhaust mods/welds/cutting etc.... just standard fitting only. So because i know these guys,  when i took the car to them and raised it on their hoist i then showed them exactly what i wanted them to do. Took them 3 hours all up & was quite easy. All this rant about how hard it is to remove and replace the headers is utter bull crap. So with that i can say it was well worth the mod. Yes it made the car louder but it is a deeper loudness. We love it. 

  7. The cat efficiency code you got is exactly what the description says, we see it from time to time. Stay off the blended mix as it is not suitable for our cars especially when tuned because it leans them out more. Without getting too technical stick to the 98 PULP. I only use BP98. It,s proven to be one of if not the best here in OZ. Wait for about 3 tank loads full of 98 and see if the error returns. If so the cat is RS depending on which bank the error code was for.

  8. 4 hours ago, _ISF said:

    I do 6 month oil changes on my cars (overkill perhaps, but cheap insurance to know the oil is clean and not contaminated) and it was time for another one over the recent Easter/Anzac break. Its super easy to do a service on this car, no need to remove the whole under tray as they designed little windows that unbolt to allow access to the oil filter canister and sump area.

     

     

     

     

     

    In regards to the overkill, NO IT IS NOT. Fuel is the killer of oil so the cleaner the oil the better. I do mine every 6 months also. We travel roughly 150-200 kms a week. I keep an eye on the Repco retail catalogues in regards to oil specials. I use Castrol Edge 5w30. But the Penrite oil you are using is great also. I also change the diff oil every 2nd service as well as the transmission fluid. Extra nutcase fussy i guess. And when i do the service i also through a bottle of Nulon PEC Fuel Additive.

  9.  I just want a pad that will dirty the wheels in the same speed the car itself gets dirty - im not looking for a magical no dust pad.

    9 hours ago, _ISF said:

    Wow that's a good price for the EBC Redstuff pads - i have seen them advertised previously but were much more expensive. 

    I was looking into those Endless pads the past few days, but for that price they would have to be a VERY special pad....i don't know if i could justify the insane cost unless there was some sort of group buy discount etc.

    I think i might try the Project MU NS400 next - i was talking to a few guys who were running those pads at the recent Sydney Lexus F meet up and they all said they were great pads with low dust. I just want a pad that will dirty the wheels in the same speed the car itself gets dirty - im not looking for a magical no dust pad.

    In regards to washing the car as you say, ours is White Nova & we only wash it every 2nd week. So dust wise the EBC`s are fantastic. No need to wash every week because of the frkn brake dust all over the frkn car. Love them. Any pad that is semi metallic will cling the the paintwork. Also don`t forget the original pads fitted to our cars are rated at 650 deg. The NS400 are just that, 400 deg. Hence why I chose the EBS`s

  10. ISF man sorry to say but all those prices you have quoted are a fkn rort. My flange work cost me $250.00. My stainless 100cell cats $300.00 for the pair. $900.00 for 2 mufflers WTF. There must be gold in all of those bits.  

    In hindsight if you were concerned about excessive noise, you should have tampered with the stock exhaust until you achieved the sound you were after.

    Any time you fit an aftermarket exhaust system with the intent of a power increase there is no quite, more so the sound and the power increase.

    Quite is the stock exhaust fitted to your car.

    Don`t waste any more of your hard earned money. I feel for you ya poor bugger . You have been ill informed. 

    Sorry mate that was my rant too 🤬🤬🤬

     

  11. Your problem of drone lies in the gutted cats. If you have knocked the honey combe out of the manifold that is where your drone issue is. I went with the xforce system 1st, no drone. I then opened the manifold flange to 3 in tappered down to 2.5 inch and still no drone. And now better still now we`ve cut the manifolds above the cats & fitted 2.5inch stainless 100cell cats & still no drone, a good deal more power but no drone. Knocking the guts out of those primaries is not the way to go. I chose the way i did mine because when you look at the shape of the lower section it bellows out for the cat. Take the honey combe out & the noise from there would be droney. Hope this helps.

     

  12. In regards to your stone chips, up here i had my front bar wrapped with a clear gloss type wrap for stone chips. The type of wrap used is a little thicker than normal wrap, specific for stone chip prevention. Best thing i did. No stone chips yet. A white bar with chips does not look good as the base colour of the bar is black and it came with 5 year warranty. 

    As for insurance i used Bingle. 

  13. Congrats on the new beast :yahoo::yahoo::yahoo:

    18 hour drive home :wacko: :wacko:.  When i leave work soon will try that move on the C/C, never knew that one, well done :yes:.  Suppose it`d help reading the manual too  :whistling:  All this time i`d bee peed off with radar crapola. Can`t wait to test it. Funny enough now you made me youtube it, there is some Lexus dude there showing how it`s done. After all this time  :wallbash: 

    Which beast did you settle for ? ? ? 

  14. Ha your first question is a good one. Unfortunately no. Unless someone has worked it out let us all know. I have tried different ways to try it but to no avail.

    As for tyres. My set up now is 255.35.19 front & 275.30.19 rears. Both sizes are pretty much within the o.d of the original tyres fitted to the car. Here in QLD your are allowed 15mm above or below the original tyre o.d size fitted to the car. My fronts now are pretty much bang on size aprox 2mm under. The rears are aprox 12mm under.

    Any more than 15mm over or under the o.d affects the speedometer accuracy. 

    Here in QLD you can see that info on their DOT website. I would have thought VIC Roads would have similar info on their website. If in doubt call them.

  15. The MY13 went to Sachs ( ZF )  dampers. Which were then used again in the MY14. There is a Sachs label halfway down the strut. Sometimes you can see the label when looking through the wheel. Hence on mine i can see the label through the right rear wheel.

  16. I`m on the Gold Coast so i hear you. I haggled with 1 in Adelaide, 1 in Sydney & 1 in Townsville as well as one here, which was the one i purchased in the end as it was the youngest. 

    There are sooo many reputable vehicle freight companies. I looked into that back then ( 2.5 years ago ) . I was prepared to buy from interstate without a visual from myself. I was prepared to pay RACV or RACQ or NRMA to check the car out with heaps of pictures & then decide from there. With the one up here you can get RACQ to inspect it and they rate it also.  They could probably recommend you a transport company also. For the money you are about to fork out you want the best deal possible. Plus the private sale one would probably move more on the price compared to the dealers. I wish you luck, hope i`ve not confused you too much :yes::yes:

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