IS2500

Mainly it is due to the car defaulting to recirculate settings every time it is powered back on, but I’ve tried it without and it’s the samw 

I’ve recently started experiencing odd AC issues. My ac runs very cool when the car is first started for about 5 minutes and when I take off and drive at a constant speed 50+ it runs very cold.

However when I come to the traffic lights it works for a while then starts to cool as if the AC button has been clicked off, as in not very well. The more traffic idling I do, the more the issue persists until I can get it at a decent speed for a consistent time again.

The only way I can get around this is if I switch the AC button off, wait a few seconds, then switch it on at which point it will be very cold for at least a minute of idling and then start again.

i have checked the fans and can hear them running when the issue is happening. I can also notice a change in RPM when the compressor kicks in which stays like that even when the problem is occurring so I’m assuming the compressor is still working. 
 

Refrigerant levels checked and they were only slightly low. Adding some extra to the levels made no change.

I hosed my condenser out clean from top to bottom and it made no change.

If anyone knows anything about what could be causing this please reach out.

i think its up to V29 now? been some years since i found a file for my 2010 is250

Fastly approaching 65,000kms on my 2010 IS250 GSE20R and can’t remember the oil I used last time to replace it. Pretty sure it was the one above if I have to guess. Would it be a good oil choice?

And, we have a winner 

https://www.repco.com.au/en/brands/penrite-oil/penrite-vantage-full-synthetic-5w-30-6l/p/A9625785

5 minutes ago, _ISF said:

The oil campaign they have initiated is with Castrol, Penrite, Gulf Western and Nulon. So Mobil 1 is not part of the sale. Personally i wouldn't touch Gulf Western but the other 3 brands are perfectly fine. I just like Penrite and Nulon as they are Aussie companies, support motorsport, are well priced and are good quality full synthetic oils.

Gulf and wester? Man, havent used that since i had my old excel 😁

Leaning towards the Penrite i think.

6.3 liters capacity is annoying though. I can buy a 6 liter and just mix some of my old 10-30 Valvoline in there should it require some.

2 minutes ago, _ISF said:

Supercheap Auto have recently started a huge oil campaign along with the Mighty Car Mods team, and all their oils are on sale. For example, the Penrite 5w-40 HPR5 i use in my ISF is currently on sale for $48.99 for a 5L bottle (usually its $62).

Oh nice, i'll check them out. I've always liked Penrite, but I need an 5-30. Trying to follow the manual as closely as possible. I wonder if mobil 1 is on sale... 

1 minute ago, _ISF said:

Yes and yes. That's all you need. You can see the new o ring in the photo. You may also need an oil filter canister tool to remove the old filter. These can be purchased or from Supercheap (i got mind from Supercheap for $15 (Ryco make them).

Thanks. Yeah i already have the tool in my cart (local auto shops are all sold out near me)

Now, to find a good deal on some oil.

Cheers mate

3 minutes ago, _ISF said:

Nothing wrong with Ryco or K&N etc, but you can buy genuine Toyota/Lexus oil filters for around $25 so id just get genuine.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-x-Lexus-IS250-IS250C-IS350-Genuine-Oil-Filters/252487015187?fits=Make%3ALexus&epid=1189985773&hash=item3ac9661b13:g:pvMAAOSwoFZas091:sc:AU_StandardDelivery!3025!AU!-1:rk:2:pf:0

like this one? does it come complete with everything needed aka o.rings and what not?

ALRIGHT! You all got me. I'll do the damn oil change myself! haha

Honestly, toyota were going to throw some semi-synthetic 10w30 oil in my baby with not only 60K on the clock! Thats blasphemy!

Anyway, i'm going to go with a 5-30, not sure what brand, the best deal i guess, but what is everyones opinion on oil filters? Ryco or K&N?

Lemme know, sitting on ebay right now ready to hit buy it now on one of these...

9 minutes ago, 2bling said:

Just buy 2x 5ltrs then you have extra next oil change (supercheap have 6ltrs Penrite) 6.3 ltrs oil change for IS 250 just think yourself lucky the ISF uses 9.5lts good luck.

I've got my eye set on Mobil 1. If i were to buy 2 bottles, it would cost me around 150 + 40 for filter ..

Toyota have a deal going on right now for an oil change for $230... might as well just take it to them and have them sort it out. Toyota Genuine oil is apparelty rebranded Mobil 1..

12 hours ago, Tony1234 said:

Hmmm, never heard that too frequent oil changes can harm an engine???

If you look in your service manual I'm sure it says for a car being driven under severe operating conditions,which i believe yours is they recommend 6 month oil and filter changes.

My driving habits fall under 'severe'? How does that work, I barely drive the thing mate 😄

4 hours ago, _ISF said:

Just a 5w-30 or a 5w-40 oil that's full synthetic will do (around $60-70 for a good brand). These engines do not require any fancy grades/specs of oils (unlike BMW/Audi/VW etc) so you can't really go wrong.

Personally i use Penrite HPR5 5w-40 in my IS-F. This is readily available at Repco/Supercheap Auto etc, is Australian made and good quality synthetic oil.

What annoys me about buying oils is that most of them are all sold in 5ltr qty, and every recent car ive own takes over 6 liters for a chance so you can never get the job done with just the price of one bottle of oil. 

Been thinking about just getting it done at toyota tbh. will enquire on monday.

6 minutes ago, Tony1234 said:

Dealer i go to for service(Lexus of Sutherland) use 10W30 semi synthetic(Castrol) or you can pay extra for 5W40 full synthetic.So based on that when i book my car in for a service I've been supplying my own 5W30 full synthetic oil.Been using either Castrol Edge or Nulon. Due to the kms.you do i'd change the engine oil every 6 mths. instead of every 12.

Why do you reccomend that? I heard too frequent oil changes actually harm the engine...

My IS 250 is due for an oil change soon, problem is, there are lots of different grades that people seem to use for this car, and i want to know which you guys use AND which one would be best in my car.  It has 60K on the clock, IS250 SL 2011 model. Do less than 2K driving a year - all local.

cheers

On 10/4/2018 at 3:38 PM, murry_is250 said:

Yeah mate, Molika on here also had it done recently with great results.  If you're having carbon build up issues, give it a go 🙂 My car still feels a lot more responsive.

I think given time, hydrogen decarbonizing will become a lot more popular here in Aus.

I actually dont know if i am experiencing any carbon build up, just read a lot about it online and wondering if there is any preventative measures i can take. My IS is still yet to reach the 60K mark, but i gave it a flog the other week (first time since i bought the car) and noticed an abnormal amount of smoke come out of the exhausts, indicating the engine is probably suffering from it already.

I've got a 2011 IS250 almost about to hit 60K mark, and i'm starting to worry about the dreaded carbon build up on these models. Honestly had i have done some more research on these cars, i would have gone for the350 instead, but its too late now. 
 

So i have read quite a few different stories about this issue, some saying that this problem is more widespread in the US due to the lower grade of fuel used there and so on, so i've come here. Has anyone dealt with this issue before in their 250? if so, at how many K's did it start giving you problems?

I'm one who does very little driving with this car on a daily basis and i drive it like an old man at best, so when i discovered this issue  online, i gave my car a good flogging around some corners and the amount of smoke visible in the rear view mirror was outstanding. Like a semi had just driven past, so i'm assuming my car already has some degree of carbon built up inside. 

What do you use to clean out the carbon if anything? Specific fuel additives or what not?

Interested to hear some stories about this.

9 hours ago, Atlantis said:

Sounds like a dodgy burn. I have seen v22 on DVD-R work perfectly fine in a 2009 model.

Perhaps try a different brand disc or burn speed.

That's exactly what it was. Re burned on a Sony DVD -R, with 0 issues!

Hi

I downloaded I believe its V21 off here quite some time ago and burned it to a DVD + disc, but its never been working reliably. What I mean is upon entering the search function, the system lags up and freezes sometimes for minutes on end. It eventually works and progresses, or it either gets so slow that I have to turn the car off as the whole NAV unit simply crashes.

I'd like to know what the latest stable version of maps is, and if possible what format DVD it must be burned to?

Can anyone help me out?

Thanks.

I’ll be picking up an IS250 pretty soon, but I’m STILL having trouble distinguishing between the models and respective features of this car.

Being a Lexus newbie that I am, I can seem to identify 5 potential models:

- Prestige 

- Sports

- Sports Luxury

- X

- F Sport

Firstly, am I correct in assuming that I have listed the models above from lowest class to highest class? If not, what would be the correct order?

Secondly, there are so many different interior color options, but which would be my best bet of finding black on black? I’ve seen a few X models in black and red which I dislike.

Ill be going for something 2010 -2013 if that makes any difference.

Thanks all