Neurus

Reverse camera problem was introduced by the firmware update they sent me to stop the screen blink.

When initially installed, reverse camera worked as expected but all VLine screens blinked every 3 seconds; they sent me that patch to stop the blinking; that is when the camera issue started.

Installation is plug and play; the time consuming part is to get all bit and pieces out and back in carefully not leaving any marks.

Android Auto is the best idea in my opinion; you just ask Google to take you to an address rather than typing it. And it is the phone actually doing the work.

Also, the screen layout is nicer. When you are looking at them map, you get a bar with the music controls and vice-versa.

AA worked but the first few seconds of every sentence where not audible; as if the communication channel used for the voice needs to be reconnected for every sentence rather than been available all the time.

There is also the other inconvenience you mentioned: a phone call takes the screen and you get nothing else (no GPS)

Believe me, I tried all possible things I could think of for every problem.

I had high expectations for it... 

Just wanted to share my experience with VLine2.

I bought it, installed, it never worked properly in my car, battled it with support on a daily basis for over 2 weeks, and ended up returning it. 

The main problems I found:
1- Installed out of the box: screen blinked. Support sent me a firmware update that fixed the blinking.
2- Half the time, VLine would not start, just hanged. Every time this happened I had to fully stop the car and start again. Not resolved.
3- Reverse required getting out of VLine before engaging R if I wanted to get reverse camera image. A real pain when you spot a parking space while driving. Not resolved.
4- Android Auto: google assistant, maps, weather, etc.: only fragments of sentences were audible. The first second or two were never audible.  Not resolved.
5- In 2 occasions I had reverse camera image no matter in what gear position I was. Car restart reset it.

Support was responding, they had the alternative firmware for the blinking available. That was quick.
After that, even though they responded the messages, responses weren’t useful. They asked me for information and to do things that lead nowhere.

I returned it before the 30-day trial period expired. At least, I got the USD 550 I paid for it back; I lost the cost of shipping it from and back to the US.

I believe there are many variations of the same radio; they developed it using an early one where it does work. In my car being a 2012, it was a disaster specially considering it is not cheap.

19 hours ago, istatic said:

I put 235x40x18 's on my front wheels (350X) instead of the standard 225's (got them a little cheaper) and i've had no issues with them whatsoever.

No discernible difference in steering feel or ride.No rubbing on guards.

Hi, can I ask what brand tyres were those 235x40x18?

I have an IS350X too; I wanted that little increase to protect the rims a bit more. I am interested in Michelin Pilot Sport 4.

Information on the internet is contradicting... 

My car came with these wheels from factory:

Front: 18x8 and 225/40R18

Rear: 18x8.5 and 255/40R18

I wanted to increase just the front tyres going to 235/40R18 keep stock height and stock rims, no spacers, no other change. The change would represent a 1.2% increase in the front diameter and 10 mm in width.

The guys from the tyre shop insisted I kept the factory settings to avoid trouble. They think this change could upset sensors as the front wheel would be rotating at a 1.2% slower than the system expects.

Does anybody have 235/40R18 and 255/40R18 in a 2IS with stock rims and stock height?

Does this cause any issue with sensors, abs system, any rubbing, or any trouble at all?

How does the car feel with these slightly bigger front tyres?

What wheels provide the input for the speedometer? Front or rear?

Let me know please.

Many thanks, Ruben

12 hours ago, BLK ISF said:

Hope that makes sense.  

It does! 

Many thanks

I have been reading about Grom but there is something I cannot answer.

I have even asked them, they simply said “All stereo functions will be working the same way” without much detail.

Without VLine my “Audio” button takes me to a screen menu where I have tabs for AM, FM, CD, AUX, USB. 
AM gives me access to memorise 6 radios and jump from one directly to another, FM gives me 2 sets of 6 memories, CD allows me to select which CD, etc. for each set I can customise individually front-rear, left-right, bass, mid, and treble settings.

If pressing “Audio” will enter in VLine mode, then how will I be able to get back to the Factory menu for all audio source options?

Will pressing Audio twice take me to the factory menu?

Or will I be losing the ability to memorise radios and customise the sound settings for AM, FM, CD once VLine gets installed and therefore the “Audio” button gets reassigned to enter VLine?

Could any of the VLine users explain this? My car is a 2012 IS350 with Navigation and standard sound (non ML)

Many thanks

Hi, Does the display dims itself while in VLine mode when your turn or you headlights?

On 11/12/2018 at 12:48 AM, Mansoor said:

Open the side panel and tighten the screw should resolve the problem.

Just do not rush the job remove the interior door panel gently without breaking the plastic studs.

Good Luck!!!

Which screw should I adjust?

I had already taken the interior trim out, lifted the internal plastic to access the service hole and adjusted the 2 bolts that hold the glass to the mechanism that lift it. 

Those 2 bolts were quite tight already. I still adjusted them half a turn. That did not solve the problem.

On 11/2/2018 at 11:01 AM, ilv1004s said:

glass on the window regulator is probably lose

if you buy a 2nd hand car you dunno whats been done to it prior to your ownership

door trim has to come off and then the bolts can be accessed from there

I took the door trim off and adjusted the 2 bolts that hold the glass. Although they were pretty tight I put another half turn on them.

The noise is still there; apparently less frequently now. I believe the noise comes from the plates touching each other. 

See attached video. I wouldn't have a clue how to quite that down....

I guess I just have to learn how to live with it.

I was expecting a bit more out of a Lexus; I have had a Toyota, a Mazda and a 29 years old Honda, all of them with less rattles that this 2012 30,000K Lexus.

Hi,

My car is a 2012 IS350.

I usually drive with the window about 3 centimetres down to let a bit of fresh air in.

Whenever I go over a bump or small pot hole or some road imperfection the glass seems to be a bit loose as if it vibrates a bit; it sounds like glass hitting metal somewhere.

If the window is all the way up or down or even more than half way down, then this does not happen.

I could not find information about this anywhere.

Has anyone else have or had this problem? Any ideas how to tight this up (if possible)?

Many thanks, Ruben

On 5/20/2017 at 9:39 AM, st87 said:

Dude. This thing. Get it.

http://www.tp-link.com/us/products/details/cat-5526_HA100.html

This is the one I'm currently using. It's paired to my Xperia Z3+. Absolutely awesome.
The issue I have with other ones (I haven't tried every single one) is the fact that you either need to connect to it via the phone each time, or press the "connect button" on the device itself.

With this one, like my previous older Blackberry Bluetooth Stereo Gateway, it automatically connects when powered.

Not sure if iPhones perform as well, but with my Xperia, once you turn on bluetooth (when the device was already powered), it will find the device and automatically connect to it.

It's also got the NFC tag. Now sure how well it performs, but could be a brilliant idea to stick it somewhere if someone in your family wants to play music from their phone too.

I have an xperia phone too. Can you connect the phone simultaneously to TP-Link for Audio and the to the car for phone calls? Will a phone call interrupt audio?