BigDenis

If you know the parts required, you can buy it from a wrecker. Much cheaper.

Can anyone recommend a place to get this done in the Sydney metropolitan area?

Can you please tell me how to quote the last post on your reply page, I hit the quote button but nothing happens.

Cheers..

Don't use Internet Explorer. I'm using Chrome to quote you.

I have 18" wheels and can easily do over 650km on a tank full of petrol travelling to and from work, with a few litres still left in the tank. In December last year, I drove from Sydney to Melbourne without the need to refill, until I reached Melbourne.

Wow how do you get it so high?

What is your tank usage (km/100? )

do you use unleaded 95 or 98?

I'm actually a really sedate driver. According to my car, I'm averaging 8.2litres / 100km city driving, although in reality it seems to be closer to 9 litres.

I use 98 in summer and 95 in winter.

I have 18" wheels and can easily do over 650km on a tank full of petrol travelling to and from work, with a few litres still left in the tank. In December last year, I drove from Sydney to Melbourne without the need to refill, until I reached Melbourne.

I guess not many people compare prices. It's the same service at both dealerships, as it was the 45,000km log book service. And sadly, the $590 price was actually at my "regular" Lexus centre.

Hi Tony1234

I have just sent you a private message.

I rang two dealerships for my 45k service. The first one gave me a price of $590, the second one $480 - BIG difference!!

I re-encode my MP3s with AUDACITY before copying them onto a USB stick for my car. I have about 3000 songs in my car, and they all work.

Hi dis-lex-sic - I've already organised it. What I will say is that it *IS* worthwhile asking several different dealers as their prices do vary.

Reviving an old thread.

So my factory warranty ends in a bit over 2 weeks time. Who do I contact for extended warranty? Does anyone have any particularly person/contact that they would recommend? Email address would be appreciated. I'm in the Sydney metro area.

Thanks in advance.

What date do we need to confirm/RSVP by?

Please keep us updated.

Specialist tools? A spanner to undo the drain plug? They only change about 3.5-4L but that is enough to refresh the additive pack in the oil & protect your transmission for another 90K

Read what "Kurtz" has to say about that method in the following thread: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/618722-i-had-my-transmission-fluid-changed-at-the-dealer-is350.html

Also here: http://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-second-generation/643544-diy-transmission-fluid-change-question-for-is250.html

Edit: A "full" transmission fluid change on the IS250 is 7.5 litres, and on the IS350 is 7.9 litres.

You can't ? I must tell my service guys to stop changing it then :P They take Toyota WS fluid. We change it every 90K. In Japan they call it lifetime fluid but thats only because most sell there cars before they get to 90K. WS is similar in spec to Dexron VI & Mercon LV. It's basically a low viscosity ATF for improved fuel economy over older specs i.e T-IV.

You can't, unless you have a part that replaces the heat exchanger built into the side of the transmission - and this is very specialised equipment that had not even been developed until a couple of years ago. Google it.

Edit: you can only change a little at a time, you can't change all the fluid with the abovementioned.

I'd recommend a transmision oil change using good quality full synthetic fluid.

You can't change the transmission fluid in the IS250.

Update: just had my brakes installed today, and to me, there is no discernible difference between the Bendix General CT pads and the OEM brake pads. I certainly did not have any of the issues described by Bowen Yong.

I bought my stuff from Mekong Spares in Canley Vale.

@bigdenis: so ultimate is also no good as well? which pads would you suggest? (less squeal and less dusty, and performs)

Bowen Yong, I have no idea on which pads are good. It's just generally well known that the Bendix Ultimates are dusty - a Bendix rep had said this in a Ford forum: http://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=3943692

Are Bendix brake pads dusty? Is Bendix heavy duty a better option, for member who requires less dust?

As a whole, Bendix brake pads are very specifically NOT dusty. That is, we have our mainstream product line, General CT, which is not dusty. I think it's really important to squash any talk of "Bendix is dusty", because our core product absolutely isn't. On the other hand, Ultimate is dusty. Brake dust is mostly made up of rotor iron.

I should add that I just bought the Bendix General CT yesterday and will have them installed on Tuesday. I'm a pretty sedate driver, so the Ultimates were just overkill for me. The General CTs were inexpensive, and besides, I hate the how dusty the OEM pads are.

Overall, I purchased the following:

2x DBA2726S (DBA Slotted Rotors) $330.00

DB1852GCT (Bendix Front General CT Brake Pads) $82.00

DB1854GCT (Bendix Rear General CT Brake Pads) $82.00

Total: $494.00

...i should have gotten the Bendix Ultimate or something better. It was just a bad decision in going for convenience and lack of research that lead to all these frustration.

Bendix Ultimate are known to be extremely dusty.

All Aluminium Welding Chipping Norton

They do an excellent job, but you need to remove your wheel and leave it with them for a couple of days.

I hate them as well. I wish I could change mine but I can't, as they're auto-dimming and heated.

I bought mine from ebay.

That's a strange request. What are you trying to do?

Jeffsa, do you have rough idling issues? There is a TSIB in the US regarding carbon build-up, and one of the symptons was excessive oil use.