Tony1234

Hi.Welcome.My answers to your questions.

1.Redbook values this car private sale at $25700-$28900 so based on that price seems still a bit high.

2.Based on the kms it's done just take it for a good long test drive,in traffic and on open road if possible.

3.Again you state it has full Lexus service history so i'd concentrate my efforts on looking for any accidents,panels and paint not quite right in a certain light etc.

4.This car is pretty much the previous model prior to the current series 3.Others here can expand on this question.

5.Luxury,comfort and efficiency i think Lexus > Liberty.Turbo power is always nice!Comes down to preference.Lexus is better all round car .Liberty is bit more sporty.

Either car will be easier on your wallet than any euro car.particularly ones out of warranty!

This is my opinion only.A lot of people buy badges not cars so if you want the luxury car feeling with all the benefits and only a few minor negatives then buy a Lexus.

7 hours ago, jessegt said:

Hey guys, 
Does anyone know where to get a good deal on DBA brakes- either fitted or on its own. 

GSL Rally Sport in Qld.http://www.gslrallysport.com/ 

DBA street series to suit Lexus IS250.$76.85 each delivered.QFM front pad set $79.00 delivered

Fit yourself.Dead easy.

Hey everyone,

Just picked up a new IS200t EP 2 F-sport in Sonic Titanium with all black interior.

Loving it so far. I plan to do some small tasteful exterior mods.

Just looking at a front & rear lip spoiler.

Maybe a set of new wheels too.

Ive had an is250 in the past, and i have loved the quality and feel of the Lexus.

Im in Melbourne, so if there are any other Melb owners, Im up for a meet/cruise.

Hi and welcome.

What are your thoughts of the IS200T as compared with the IS250?

Performance,handling etc.What model IS250 did you have?

From what i could work out it's something to do with the size of the tread blocks.At a certain speed range you get a humming like sound.

I agree with your mechanic.

My limited experience with Pirelli tyres is the same as yours.Twice i've had them on my cars and twice i've swapped them for another brand.Michelin PS3s are a low noise tyre

Lexus America have low-dust brake pads to specifically combat this complaint.

Do you have a link please.

I too would like recommendations on replacement rotors and pads as i have an MY13 IS250 and the dust is driving me mad,not to mention the rotor wear.I've only done 21K!!

2013?

do you have a 3rd gen?

or the 2nd gen IS

Sorry 2nd.gen IS

I too am interested in swapping out the ordinary looking grille on my 2013 IS250 series 2 for an F sport mesh grille.Are there any options available?Genuine or a copy.

So for this to be successful you'd need to do minimum 3-4 drops maybe more!(one every 2-3 weeks) of trans fluid to eventually replace the old fluid with a substantial amount of new fluid?I've used this principal on a few other cars i've owned and it works well.In saying that the cars i've done this on have approx.8L of trans fluid and i've drained approx.3L from the pan each time.

Being an American unit wouldn't there be compatibility issues??

Photos ?

^^^ As above we need photos.

Cable tie should do the job

Greetings - when I got into my IS250 this afternoon the CHECK VSC message, plus the Master Warning Light (Red Triangle) the Check Engine Light - Not flashing and the Slip Indicator light all came on and did not go off. I had noticed that the revs seemed down when stopped at the lights when I had driven it earlier. Unfortunately I do not think my service centre is open tomorrow - is it OK to drive or do I put it into the garage until Monday?

Pull the positive terminal of the battery and leave disconnected for a few minutes then reconnect.This will reset the ECU.If the CELs return then it's off to Lexus service or auto electrician to itentify the fault codes.

Bilstein.Had them on an Accord Euro.Reasonably compliant driving round town,as soon as you push it into corners they seem to firm up.Car handles like it's on rails.

I've just come back from the AE. They ran another scan, same fault code as yesterday being (p2195) oxygen (a/f) sensor signal stuck rich - bank 1 sensor 1. On the graph itit shows sensor one flat lining but sensor 2 seems to be working fine. They have also checked the battery sensor switch and couldn't find an issue with that. Looks like I will definitely have to replace the front sensor in order to stop the warning lights appearing on the dash. They have cleared the codes again but it won't be long till they appear again (usually within 15kms of driving).

I think you should wait and drive the car more on 98.It may take a while for the O2 sensor to sort itself out on the new fuel.Maybe take it for a good highway run.

I've also heard it's a good idea to alternate between 98 fuels eg.2-3 tanks of BP then 2-3 tanks of Mobil 98(7 eleven) then Caltex 98 as they each have different types of detergents/additives.

What is the difference between the two Shell vpower and Bp ultimate aren't they both 98 octane? Or is Bp aa better quality fuel.

Heard too many negative things about Shell fuels from mechanics,other car forums etc.I've nothing to back up what i'm saying but i figure why take the chance.Never heard anything but good reports about BP ultimate.

Hi all,

So I decided to take my car up the road from work to an auto electrician. He ran a scan and determined the cause was from an o2 sensor. He asked me what type of fuel I had been running (I run normal unleaded) then he told me I should only be running premium as the o2 sensors are quite sensitive and any crap fuel will usually set the warning lights off. $132 later I've filled up my car with premium fuel (shell vpower) and I'll see how I go. Hopefully that's all it was. My husband laughed when I told him - he's always getting up me for using unleaded! If it turns out that the fuel doesn't fix the problem it will cost me $318 for a new front o2 sensor. Fingers ccrossed I won't have to replace it.

Just my opinion stay away from Shell fuels.There's better fuel out there.BP ultimate.

Damn I was hoping I could avoid taking my car to Lexus. Being a female I have a fear of being ripped off! Did they charge to do a diagnostics also?

You can take your car to an auto electrician.Because you're female ask the mechanic,service person lots of questions to reduce your chances of being"ripped off".

Just out of interest Chris how much did it cost?

Email this guy.He's a trader here.6x Denso Iridium FK20HBR11 for NZ$180 delivered which is approximately AU$165

cbarber@manukau.toyota.co.nz

I have a 2007 is250. I currently have 225/40/18 on the front and 255/40/18 on the rear. Thinking of changing the rears to 255/35/18, would anyone know if there is an issue with this?

Also, currently the front tyre doesn't seem to be flush with the rim.. tyres look like they're a bit stretched. Always been like that since I bought the wheels privately. Took it to Bob Jane T-Mart recently and they say I might have the rims back to front. The guy said I might have 8" wide rims on the front and 7" wide on the back, hence the front not being flush. Anyone familiar with this?

Personally i cant see the point in changing your rears from 40 to 35 profile.Benefits would be minimal.

As for the fronts looking stretched i have the same tyre/rim setup.They are supposed to be like this.The guy from Bob Jane is clueless.You could put 235/40s on the front to get rid of the stretched look and better rim protection,not sure if you'll get any rubbing though.I'm going to look into this when i'm up for front tyres.

I use Meguiars Soft Wash Gel and my cars have been paint protected with Opti-coat so no wax needed.

How do you find the Opticoat?I've been considering getting this.

I would suggest taking the back seat out and having a look at the sub it self to see if the surround has a tear/crack in it as well as the sub woofer has not come lose from the parcel shelf.

I needed a bit more punch from the ML system and installed a after market sub instead.

I to am looking for a bit more bass too.Where did you install it and what brand did you get installed?