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2009 , 2010 Mark Levinson Wiring pin outs for line out converter

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Hey guys.

Been looking into a line out converter for the ISF to add another amp/sub.

Found a lot of wiring information for pre-MY10model ISF / IS250, but was finding it hard to find a wiring diagram for the late 2009+.
As many would know, heaps of colours changed, and for some reason they had an obsession with running pairs of 'white and red' wires in the one harness.

There are a couple of threads with information here and there, and a couple of snippets of information or screenshots, but I wanted to know basically every wires purpose at the amp for this year model.

After digging all over, and obtaining the diagram which suited my car, I made a coded reference chart.

Please note that a diagonal black line means the pin is not in use. Not to be confused with the 1st power plugs 2 pins which are half coloured black, half coloured white (which are the 2 grounds).

This was for a Lexus IS , ML MY10 late 2009 build, I believe 2011 to be the same. 

In any case, hoping this wiring chart will help someone else in need in the future. Cheers



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  • 3 weeks later...

You're welcome.

I also wanted to add some additional information for anyone else looking to do their own install.

I made up my own 'T harnesses'.  i.e. OEM harness plugs into custom T harness, custom T harness has some wires tapped in the middle, and the other end plugs back into your amp. Makes things 100% reversible with no damage or modification to any OEM wiring.

Suitable for someone needing subwoofer signals, front door speaker/woofer signals, remote wire, grounds, constant 12v etc for aftermarket line out converters.

Here is the info, again for this particular year range and plug type:

Plugs A+B.
Standard Toyota 6+10 pin plugs.
I bought male ends to plug into amp, and female ends to plug into the factory amplifier wiring (and then connect them together to make your custom harness and tee off whatever signals you need)
I didnt need to use plug A, but plug B comes in handy as its a speaker plug and used to Tee off subwoofer signal wires

The only reservation I have with a pre-made 'Plug A' , is that the OEM Toyota 12v harness wires appear to be a thicker gauge than the rest of the harnesses for the 12v wires going into the amp.
The aftermarket pre-made 'Plug A' 6 pin (where 4 wires are used) would not be to my liking as a 'pass-through'
If I had to actually tap into 'Plug A' (which I dont in my setup), I would have either de-pinned the aftermarket harnesses to put replace with a thicker gauge to match OEM, or just buy a 'crimp it yourself' solution for this plug and make one from scratch.
The pre-made aftermarket stuff seem to be fine as a pass-through in terms of wiring gauge for plugs B+C (speaker wires). Visually they appear to be the same gauge and copper wires.

Male end: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32670180830.html
Female end: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1245505321.html

Plug C
One of many 12 pin plug combinations. Another speaker plug per the above diagram. This one is commonly referred to as the "5+7" plug for Toyota.
This harness already had both male and female ends, and a 'Tee off' already done for you into a 3rd plug (which you could cut off). Plugs into amp wiring, and other end into the amp.
Good to take front door woofer signals etc.

Plug D
Another 12 pin. Mainly data signal based stuff
Only real thing to 'tee' off here, is a remote wire (That is, if you dont want to run a fresh one from your fuse box, or use a 'remote turn on' feature from many modern line out converters)

I couldnt find anything pre-made, but this is a male and female end, with crimp pins.

You can get this from Digikey, Mouser etc.
Female side part 1473407-1 . Pins part 1674742-1
Male side, part 1318774-1 . Pins part 1123343-1


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  • 1 month later...
  • 1 month later...

Awesome work my friend.  I haven’t done the install yet, but I love the idea of non cutting into the factory harness.

Do you happen to have the 3D CAD file for the left tray?

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Hey. Replied to your pm. I left a link in the youtube video description for the guy in australia (3d printing company) who can sell you one printed up. Cheers

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  • 1 year later...

2012 is250 Base. I Ended up cutting the wires going to the sub and running them directly to my line level converter. This did not work. It would cut in and out and did not understand the ohm load.  I found that the factory amp needed the ohm load from the factory sub. 

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