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P2757 Code for Check VSC Warning Light 2007 IS250


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Hi all,

Anyone had any experience with P2757 error code? Reading the forum the first steps appear to be oil cycling and filter change, possibly solenoid change, and some comments saying once it appears it could be terminal for the transmission. Details on what's happened below.

A couple of weeks ago I got the Check VSC engine warning light, nothing dramatic happened while driving or any real noticeable change - the only thing leading up to this was that it had stalled a couple of times when I was reversing into the garage. I pulled the fuses and cleared the warning light (and ordered Techstream cable) if it happened again. The warning light didn't come back on and the car has been noticeably smoother since I pulled the fuses (this seems to be common in the threads I read on this).

Last night the warning light came back on and using Techstream I'm getting the P2757 code - again the car seems to be fine.

The timing just before Christmas isn't great, but I'm off to a Transmission specialist this afternoon (recommended by the mechanic) for them to have a look. From reading the forums (here and UK) the recommendation seems to be oil cycling and filter change (and possibly solenoid chance). When I spoke to them on the phone and asked about the oil cycling they seemed to think that this was a waste of time, interesting to see later if they have alot of IS250s come through.

Thanks,
Steve

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The transmission said that it requires a Vale Body Replacement and that this will cost $3,100 and includes the new gasket and oil.

They said this is a common issue that they see on the A950 transmission.

Has anyone come across someone replacing the Valve Body to deal with these issues?

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Steve see the last post on this.

Use a scan tool clear all error codes/diagnostic trouble codes in the ECU and reset AT (Automatic Transmission) using scan tool in order to learn new driving pattern. Your problem likely be solved. Merry XMas. 

 

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Yes I did the scan and cleared the code by pulling the fuses. The code came back.

The thread you sent through is interesting on the ECU being the root cause, I don't think I've got the other symptoms so it seems to be the transmission.

I haven't found many references to this being a common issue for the IS250 on the Aus forums, but there's a big thread on this being a common problem once cars gets north of 160,000 kms.

 
 
 
HERE'S SOME EXCERPTS FROM THIS THREAD
 
 
Symptoms - oil change and solenoid change
 
I'm having the same problem with the Code P2757. Changed the oil and filter twice and same code appears but its intermittent. VSC light goes away after a couple of days and goes back on. Transmission shifts the gear rapidly at times. I'm in 6th gear while doing 30 on the city street and I also feel the transmission doesn't want to shift to lower gear while I try to accelerate.
When the pressure valve is stuck open you won't have any problems at high speeds, but will have slight problems at lower speeds. A mechanic can test this for you by plugging a special scanner into your engine code outlet. While driving, he can use this device to see whether the pressure control valve opens and closes as it should. He can also open and close it manually with the same device.

My car had symptoms similar to yours, but barely noticeable. I think mine was OK finding lower gears for hard accelerations, but less reliable when speeding up slightly. I just assumed it was trying to save gas by using higher gears as often as possible. Of course, everything worked fine in sport mode, when choosing gears manually. Changing the solenoid made the car much better at lower speeds, with no problem finding the right gear anymore. At first, the car was confused with the new solenoid, and I had to unplug the battery to reset everything. Then it was perfect. Afterward, I brought it to Lexus for a full diagnostic and they seemed happy with everything, although one mechanic told me it was just a "band-aid fix that wouldn't last." But what he meant is that "the tranny is getting old and other parts will fail, and that it's not worth doing a bunch of repairs vs getting a new tranny." To me it WAS worth $500, even if I have another repair later. But take it to an independent transmission shop because Lexus will charge $800-$1000 for the same job. Incidentally, my car had 135k miles when I first changed the oil and replaced the solenoid. The oil was very old but there was no sign of mechanical wear.
 
 
Someone changed one solenoid and then got another error:
 
hi guys.unfortunatly after replacing slu solenoid 35280-30050/ error code p2757/ just 500mi ago.new error code just came with all lights/vsc,check,traction/ p0894.
any ideas?
is that onother solenoid-and if is solenoid which one is it?
if is onother solenoid isnt better transmission replace because i dont want to replace every each of them every 500mi?
Thanks in advance!!!
 
 
Only mention I could find of a complete new valve body
 
New to the groups but this is the issue I had last week and the fix...hopefully
VSC came on...
Codes read...

P0751 shift sol "a" performance or stuckoff

P2714 Press control sol "d" perf or stuckoff in fail safe

The transmission shop "AAMCO" who I am friends with refused to just fix the 2, said from the past only fixing 2 never fixes it. He was able to get a remanufactured valve body w/ solenoids shipped in 2 days later from Michigan. Cost for part and labor ran me $1100.

Hope this helps and any questions let me know. He also agreed that the 350 is rare to see major transmission issues.

Thanks,
Joe
 
 
Some US dealers saying transmission lifetime is 100k miles
 
Originally Posted by DRivera250
At the dealership right now. I have 135k miles on the car. Service advisor said it may need a transmission flush, but may not solve the problem. $4k for a new transmission. Asked him what is the life of a transmission he stated 100k miles. Which seems really low. But many of us seem to be running to issues at around the same mileage.
My story is exactly the same, mileage, dealer, whole thing.
 
Temperature will show the fault
 
I read something online that these solenoids tend to show their wear and tear and possibly reveal their defects when you drive for an hour and the transmission oil temperature goes way up, causing some metal expansion and eventually causing a solenoid to jam either stuck open/close, followed by a bright CEL in front of you while driving. When the transmission cools down and a battery disconnect procedure for a few minutes on your part will put your vehicle back to normal transmission shifting (until you drive a long time again). This is a cycle I had to confirm for a few days before I dropped-down the transmission oil pan one more time this past weekend. In short, I essentially replaced both the SLU and SLT solenoids this time around, and I must tell you these parts from eBay really work (so far, for me anyway)!
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Steve It may be UR tranny. But these transmissions are solid as a rock !

You said "Yes I did the scan and cleared the code by pulling the fuses. The code came back."

You can't erase the codes by pulling fuses out !

You need a scanner to excetute that. If you used a scanner and error codes re-surfaced soon after erasing them, obviously there is a problem/fault. Most common problem may be a glitch causing the the ECU to throw out codes on these cars.   

Here are the DTC examles of what I had few years ago with the GS 300

P0751 SHIFT SOLONOID ‘A’ PERFORMANCE OR STUCK OFF.

P2714 PRESSURE CONTROL SELONOID ‘D’ PERFORMANCE OR STUCK OFF.

P0751 SHIFT SOLONOID ‘A’ PERFORMANCE OR STUCK OFF.

P2714 PRESSURE CONTROL SELONOID ‘D’ PERFORMANCE OR STUCK OFF.

Having worked on these ECU's in the past, what I found is that, CLEARING the DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES and RESETING the TRANSMISSION ( Transmission control  is part of the ECU and it is not a seperate control unit here) more often than not fixes the problem. In my case it did.

If in your case, if it is a mechanical problem to do with valve body, solenoids or other, than you would want to get that correctly diagnosed. Your best bet is likely to be the dealer. As for the repair, once the correct diagnossis is on hand, it will be up to you where to go.  

 

GL

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi GL - yes the codes have been cleared with a scanner and they came back, this time round much faster but that could be because the car was already warm.

It looks mechanical with the different mechanics I've had check it out.

The latest has recommended to have the solenoid replaced as a first step - $500. If that doesn't work then they recommend a full reconditioned transmission for $3500.

The P2757 could be the solenoid or the torque converter clutch. Apparently they see Lexus' come in at 250-300k with this problem, and while 185k is early it is isn't unheard of. They had a GS in at the same time where they were replacing the solenoid.

And they echoed what has been shared on this forum that having the oil changed in the transmission is important to do, even if Lexus say it is lifetime and doesn't need changing.

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3 hours ago, IS250-2007 said:

Hi GL - yes the codes have been cleared with a scanner and they came back, this time round much faster but that could be because the car was already warm.

It looks mechanical with the different mechanics I've had check it out.

The latest has recommended to have the solenoid replaced as a first step - $500. If that doesn't work then they recommend a full reconditioned transmission for $3500.

The P2757 could be the solenoid or the torque converter clutch. Apparently they see Lexus' come in at 250-300k with this problem, and while 185k is early it is isn't unheard of. They had a GS in at the same time where they were replacing the solenoid.

And they echoed what has been shared on this forum that having the oil changed in the transmission is important to do, even if Lexus say it is lifetime and doesn't need changing.

just go with another trans
$500 is a start 
by the time u pin point which ones cooked
ur already wasted same or more money as a new trans and wasted about x 6 more time and ATF (which is not cheap)

if your thinking your gonna get away with $500 your gonna be in for a good ride
iv been doing these trans for years
people who dont wanna spend the initial money (Service or just replacing 1 part ) always end up spending more

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IS250-2007 Have it properly diagnosed by Lexus, before you let some of these so called experts start replacing solenoids or even tranny. 

Have you had the tranny serviced using genuine Toyota WS fluid and original Lesus/Toyota tranny filter and gasket ? If you haven't, that is something to consider before anything else. I have had that done at a Lexus dealership. And I am glad I did it. For general service, I use my own mechanic.

What would Lexus charge you for diagnosing the fault ? You may want to ring and ask. At least you will have some direction to follow thereafter once it is properly diagnosed. I am not suggesting to get it repaired at Lexus just diagnostics no more to start with. After that what you do, where you go  is up to you.

What controls the solenoids is the ECU. It may be a faulty ECU as simple as a dry solder joint in the circuit that drives the solenoid. But Lexus guys should be able to tell you the source of the problem/remedy and the cost in rectifying it.

GL

 

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  • 1 month later...

Lexus sent me to this transmission repairer. They said this is common and to go straight to the specialist, who they send other customers to with similar issues.

The mechanic explained the $500 fix was possible to work with the solenoid replacement, but may not and would be taken off the $3,500 bill for the full transmission reconditioning.

That's my next step is the full transmission service, which includes sending the torque convertor clutch to be reconditioned.

The other transmission specialist I went to recommended replacing the valve body, but nothing else, for $3,000.

I've looked online and finding a low km transmission to replace this transmission seems challenging (I could be looking in the wrong place) and getting a higher km transmission could just end up with the same issue.

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  • 2 months later...

Hi all,

 

2007 is250 262km in Melbourne - bought it 3m ago at 259k and did around 3k in that time.  300-400km ago got c1201 + p2757 code.  Cleared it with toyota techstream and it came back after 90-100km. Car drives and shift fine but when warm shifting from R->D - not always - but will stall the engine. I have read almost everything I could find on the web about this topic.

Right now I have checked with 2 mechanics  both said to replace AT (one for 2k other one for 6k)

What I want to do is:

1. I will get car back next week, and I will do another code clear + transmission reset. (after that want to see how quickly the code will come back)

2. Need to find someone to do:

- AT fluid flush + replace filter

- Replace the solenoid. (OEM is around 120-140aud for 1) or I can go all out and buy all 9 from ebay (for around 200aud for non OEM ones - to see what will happen)

3. Replace AT - I have found one for around 1k near me.

 

Will update you guys after step 1 😉 

 

 

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Hi fargate,

I'm yet to resolve my issues with the transmission, from what I've read you probably want to go straight to replacing the AT if you can get one for 1k and replace it for 2k. If I could get one for 1k and fitted for 2k, and it was guaranteed, then I'd do that.

I had the lock-up solenoid replaced, it was meant to be the first step that if that didn't work then the mechanic would refurb the transmission including the TCC. The mechanic went quiet on that work.

In my research on the a960e transmission I've come across Sonnax Zip Kits which are designed to fix issues with the valve body. I've raised this with different transmission specialists and nobody seems to have heard of these to fix issues with the a960e. When I read the Sonnax website it sounds very similar to the issues I'm having. I've been quoted $1,600 to fit the Zip Kit.

I was quoted $2,850 for a brand new valve body fitted.

https://www.alltranz.com.au/shop/drivetrain/automatic-transmission/A960/product/596/

https://www.sonnax.com/tech_resources/345-diagnosing-solenoid-performance-faults-in-a761-ab60-a960-6-speed-transmissions

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  • 3 weeks later...

Steve: In your situation I would probably took a gamble with used trans (my 3 step) if you can't do it yourself (Zipp kit or valve body replacement) it would probably be cheaper and faster to just buy used one and gave it to mechanic to replace your current one. 

 

I have an update about my situation. 2 weeks a go I went to transmission specialist, after quick drive he suggested AT rebuild for 6k. I have explain to him my plan (from my last post) and decided to go to stage 2 - Trans fluid + filter + solenoid - and after a week of testing looks like I'm  in the clear.

Things I noticed right away (I did not noticed them before)

- I had a slight jerk when changing from 1st to second gear (gone) (could be torque converter will see if it need to be replaced later)

- I had very minor vibration all the time (gone)

- AT stopped dropping gears when going uphill (now keeps 5 gear easy - was dropping from 5- 4)

- Car feels more dynamic - like I got some power back.

- Overall smoother operation (engaging and disengaging gears or switching from R->D and D->R - and no stalling the engine)

- No codes after 200km so far.

Looks like it I caught it very quickly - not much if any damage was done to it.  The person that I bought the car from (Older Woman - 1st owner from new)  did not used car much last 3-6mo and did not drive the car hard (assumption on my part). So when I got the car and did some WOT stress test on it the AT oil gave up (completely black - never replaced) - got lucky that solenoid got clogged (another assumption) and just a service + solenoid replacement was enough (fingers crossed) 

 

 

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