christodav

Hey mate . Are you still around these parts? Have you seen me post elsewhere? Chris

I have ordered stuff from them b4. They were okay, but don't hold your breath in getting the goods in a hurry. It took almost 4 weeks! The prices are very good though and based on that I would probably use them again. Chris

Bugger! OK. First get in touch with Castle Hill Toyota and find out what the genuine Toyota one costs. To do this, go to their website and you be able to sent them a message with your details etc. I have bought all my Genuine parts from them so far via email. Then call The Toy Shop (www.japimports.com.au), speak to Troy an see if he has one and how much. Aaron at Rampant (www.rampant.net.au) is another bloke to try. He has an Aristo himself as well, so he knows what he is talking about! To give you an idea, I had to replace one on my EF Falcon Ind I bought a non Ford one brand new and it still cost $120-. From memory, Ford wanted triple that! Lastly, check the unit out first if possible as you never know, it may be fixable? If it doed not work at all it could be the switch. Chris

Nick, Hehehe! I really did think about it as my new company car, a Mitsubishi 380 Platinum has a blue dash. It does really look really cool, but as you say, every other light in the car is blue as well. I kinda went for the white to be safe. It just depends on if you were game enought blow $20- or so if it didn't look good. I think it would look good in the Aristo if the heater controls were blue as well, or at least an aftermarket stereo with blue lights. Now there's a thought. Chris

Scott, This is a tricky one as the US spec model came out with the Nak' or Pioneer unit and I believe all of our one use are the Fujitsu Ten. (Mine is anyway.) I have not touched my radio except I have pulled it out and apart cos I thought I could fix the faulty CD, but it has died. :D You also have an option of sourcing a set-up from here. http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=e...2Bkit%26hl%3Den I don't think its cheap, I have read somewhere over $300- and I have no idea where I can get one in Australia. If anyone finds out let me know. I guess it would make it an easy job. Beware of other surround though as you may find that they are US companies that make them and my not fit in our RHD cars. Check out UK stes instead. As far as the engine goes, I hae used www.MKIV.com for my reference as just about everthing is the same. They have some great articles and some extracts from the Toyota workshop manual. Even if you got your hands on the US GS300 workshop manuals, there would be quite a few differences, for a start LHD, NA engine and I know the stereo etc. Have you got a modulator for the radio? I have and it is not the best really. I get confused with what station is what. Chris

LOL! I hope you learnt your leason! "Use the Force......" but don't over do it! Chris

Greetings, I am the first to admit that I am in love with my Aristo. However, when it comes time to look for a new one I must say that I will be a little more wiser. I have only had it for about 2 months and already I have spent a small fortune since. Obviously there are a few ways of ways to buy a grey import like the Aristo. Privately, through a dealer who has imported and complied it and doing all of that stuff yourself. This was my first import so I took the dealer path. I guess not a bad option but there were of course pluses and minuses. Try to have a couple of grand set aside in addition to your landed and complied costs and registration etc. The complience place, whoever they may be, are really only willing to get the car OK'ed for roadworthy. Just like any 2nd hand car dealer really. If they can avoid spending extra money I believe most of them will. You may be almost due for new plugs for example, or a new timing belt. Sure they put oil in it and do a basic service, but are you prepared to trust what oil went in it etc? Maybe you are, but be prepared for dealing with shortcuts performed along the way. Brake pads may be another example as they may be roadworthy but due to be replaced in 5,000km. Don't forget also that this is car is a 'special car' that needs special attention, so you may choose those 'special brake pads and not just the OEM ones. There you go, you have just doubled the price of your pads! On the Aristo, make sure you get your suspension and steering checked out. These are common to be worn and cost thousands depending on how far you wish to go. Most people have gone for the HSD coilovers as they are about $1350- plus fitting and I have heard that the Toyota genuine strut replacement cost is astronomical. One of the reasons th strut are so expensive is that the Aristo uses an electronic setup in which when the power button is pressed the suspension stiffens up to a degree. (Obviously, This would not be utilized if you got coilovers). Steering rack ends, wheel bearings etc. Watch for oil leaks, my main seal is leaking slightly, the only way to fix it is to pull out the gearbox. If you get the opportunity to have the vehicle before complience, try to get it checked out by a qualified mechanic first and then give the complience blokes the list of things that need to be done. At least give it a go. All this even before getting that shiny new boost guage or turbo timer. While I think of it, make sure you get an alarm or immobilizer that is compatible with turbo timers if that is what you want to do later. (Turbo timers are not exactly legal). I had an immobilizer fitted at the time of purchase and now have to upgrade it to use a timer! Overall the car is great, but it is still an 11 year old car regardless of it having low milage, so expect to pay a few dollars to get it up to scratch after your initial purchase. Something I did not fully discover until now. I think the low milage thing and the shiny well looked after paintwork blinded me and I failed to look at it as a secondhand vehicle to some degree. Happy Aristo'ing! Chris

Greennick, I got these ones as each of these globes, (all 9 of them actually),cover a wide range of the dash. For example, one globe lights up 1, 2 and 3 of the tacho and the x1000 sign on the bottom. If you use a standard LED, most of them a re prpbably too directional and don't have the same coverage as a conventional light globe. I did not mention that I have changed my mind a bit on some of the other LED's that I replaced such as the "D" green light. I may even swap that back as I am finding it too bright at night. I would recommend, especially in your case going for the dash ones as mentioned for the time being and then stuffing around from then on in once you have sorted out the car etc. Make sure you replace all of these ones as it looks pretty stupid with half your dash white and the other half a yellowy colour. Good Luck. Apart from that, everything else I am pleased about. I especially love the LED's in the doors. Chris

Hey guys, As the title suggests, I ended up with an arm full of V Power Racing today. I sourced a Genuine Toyota fuel filter that came with shiny black paint and the bracket attached. This made it a fairly easy job to complete. In case you didn't know, the filter is located under the rear passenger side door just forward of the back wheel. I was able to lie on my garage floor and see underneath fairly comfortably, however, if your car has been lowered, this may make the task almost impossable without a hoist or jack. You need to undo the cover plate/heatshield using a spanner or ratchet. The bolts are 10mm from memory. I disconneted the Plug connected to the tank from the fuel pump and turned over the engine a couple of times until it would not turn over. I don't know that this helped that much cos I still ended up losing probably half a litre of fuel into a container I placed under the car. You will need to use a flat tray container so that you can still work on the filter. I loosened both end of the filter and then tightened them just enough to stop the flow. I then removed the 2 bolts holding the bracket. Then you have to work really quickly to remove the filter. I loosened the again and then turned them both by hand as swiftly as I could and repeated the same in reverse on the new filter. After tightening the filter and replacing the bracket bolts, I made sure I wiped off any excess fuel from the filter and started the car after re-plugging the fuel pump in. A quick look to check there were no leaks and job done. Chris

Tones, I have been looking around too and I am convinced that the HSD coilovers are the best value for money. Chris

1996 JZS147 Toyota Aristo 3.0V (GS300) GENERAL Body type Sedan Drive FR Transmission Electronic control type 4 speed automatic (intelligent) ECT-i Displacement, cc 2997 Frame E-JZS147-BEPVZ Price of new car, thousands yen (Tokyo area) 4790 (~$39900) SPECIFICATION (SPECS) EXTERIOR Exterior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 4920 x 1795 x 1420 Interior dimensions (LxWxH), mm 2005 x 1535 x 1150 Wheel base, mm 2780 Treads (F/R), mm 1535 / 1510 Ground clearance, mm 150 Curb vehicle weight, kg 1690 Gross vehicle weight, kg Seating capacity, persons 5 Doors number 4 Min.turning radius, m 5.5 Fuel tank capacity, l 80 Displacement, cc 2997 Engine model 2JZ-GTE Max.power (Net), kw(PS)/rpm 280 ps (205.94 kw) / 5600 rpm Max.torque(Net), N*m(kg*m)/rpm 44.0 kg*m (431.49 N*m) / 3600 rpm Power density 6.04 Engine type Water cooling serial 6 cylinder DOHC24 valve twin turbo Engine information 2 way twin turbo Fuel system EFI (electronic fuel injection) Turbocharger Twin Turbo Fuel type Unleaded premium gasoline LEV system (Low emission vehicle) No Compression ratio 8.5 Bore, mm 86 Stroke, mm 86 Final gear ratio Fuel consumption at 10-15 modes, l/100km 12.9 Fuel consumption at 60 km/h, l/100km CHASSIS / TRANSMISSION Power steering Yes Tires size, front 225/55r16 94v Tires size rear 225/55r16 94v Braking system, front Ventilated disk Braking system, rear Ventilated disk Suspension system, front Double wishbone type coil spring Suspension system, rear Double wishbone type coil spring EQUIPMENT EXTERIOR EQUIPMENT Sunroof / Moonroof Front fog lamp Rear fog lamp Xenon headlight (Discharge lamp) Projector headlight Rear wiper Front spoiler Rear or roof spoiler ABS (Antilock brake system) TCS (Traction control system) LSD (Limited slip differential) Privacy glass UV cutting glass Aluminium wheel 16inch standard INTERIOR EQUIPMENT Air conditioner Full automatic Wood panel Cruise control Centralized door lock Power window Steering wheel telescopic Steering wheel tilt Leather steering wheel Power front seat Power rear seat Leather seat Falling down type rear seat Child seat fixed with seat belt Rear ELR3 point seat belt Front seat pretensioner seat belt Fourth limited front seat belt Side impact bar Airbag (Driver) Airbag (Passenger) Airbag (Side) Audio deck AM/FM radio equipped cassette player CD-player Single equipment Car navigation system - present - not present - option Colors Color spectrum Color Black Dark blue mica Grayish green mica metallic Silver metallic Option Dark green mica P.I.O.Toning G White pearl mica toning G

Given that I am reasonably good with a spanner and my old man is my mentor, I think I could install the coilovers myself as well. The olny issue I fear is the fact that I don't have a hoist so it would be one corner at a time. Am I correct in saying that this would also be a pain in the butt in terms of adjustment? How long did it take you the first time? I am just considering taking it somewhere and getting them to do it. Chris

Tones, With all due respect. VVTI? The JZS147 2JZ-GTE engine does not have vvti. Not untill the 2nd Gen Aristo which we can't import under SEVS. You are getting mixed p with something else. Chris

There are easier and cheaper ways of checking! However, maybe just not as fun! Chris

Great looking ride man! I am considering those HSD coilovers. What is your opinion of them? Did you experience the standard struts before they were installed? Difference? Chris

I have edited this on the 12th April 2007 Hey everyone, I have almost completed my LED interior upgrade in my 1996 JZS147 Aristo, including the dash cluster and the interior lights. I haven't tackled the gear selector or radio/heater controls as yet but I may soon as I am getting a bit addicted to to it! I am planning on posting a more detailed step by step 'how to' including photos if anyone is interested. Here is just a quick outline for now. Please bare in mind, this is based on a JDM Aristo install and Australian globe numbers etc. It is a guide and I hold no resposibility should anything go wrong if you go ahead and try it. As I didn't want to do any soldering and I knew the new LED type lights were available anyway, I went in search of the right replacement LED's. LED's require resistors to work in this application but specially manufactured automotive LED's are available that have the resistors built-in! Finding the right ones is the hardest part, but I have done all the hard work for you. The dash consists of basically 3 types of globe holders. There are a total of 32 globes I think. (I'll check later when I post some pics). Toyota have even colour coded the 3 types of holders to make life easier. The holders are black, (smaler ones, mainly warning lights), grey, (slightly bigger and are used for the gear selector on the dash) and green ( which are the ones used to illuminate the dash in general). What was not easy was tracking down the right LED sizes as it seems that different parts of the world call the different sizes different names. To make things more complicated, 2 of the types required are very similar and are both really known as 'T5' size. I was able to get these from my local Autobarn store but could not find them in a shop anywhere else. The 2 brands available at my local Autobarn were Monza and APC. The Monza ones were slightly smaller and the APC ones in my case, were actually stated T10 on the backing card but were actually T5's but only ever so slightly bigger than the Monza T5! Both these globes fitted into either the grey or black holders although I did find that the APC brand was better fit on the grey and the Monza on the black. These issues are what I am talking about and why it has taken 4 weekends to get it right! If you happen to find another brand, I would recommend taking a globe with you to check the size and also measure the size if you are searching the net. Trust me, it is hard to find the right ones on the net if you don't have the measurments! Also, while I think about it, don't be suckered into someone charging huge amounts of money to do it for you. If you have the right LED's, it should ony take about 2 hours max to do the job. I used mainly red and green ones to suit the various warning lights and gear inicators etc. The advice here is, if it is a red dash light use a red LED, if it green, for the inticators for example, use a green one. There are a couple of orange ones as well including the engine check light etc. ( I will detail this when I do the big article.) You may even wish to skip replacing the warning lights etc and start by replacing the main instument 'background lights'. The main instrument 'background lights are actually called T6.5's and here lies the hard part. The only place I was able to find the right size LED was on E-bay from a supplier in Hong Kong. You need to have a Pay Pal account to purchase the LED's, but the items arrived safe and sound within just a few working days. Be aware that I have read that these are also called '74' globes. The LED is a weird looking thing with 3 LED's attached to a base. They only just fit and are available in brilliant xeon white or spark blue. I chose the white, but I would be interested if someone tries the blue! My Mistsubishi 380 has a spark blue dash and I love it! You need to buy 9 and they are priced in pairs for about $4-. Postage is reletivly cheap as well, but they are small globes and next to nothing in weight. I would only recommend, at this point in time buying these main globes from this E-Bay store at this stage as I can say that without a doubt, they work on my car! You need to look for the lights that say something like "2pcs T5 T6.5 3 Power LED (Xenon White) Dash Wedge Bulb". Here is the link to his store. http://stores.ebay.com.au/warden-jp2002_W0...Q3aFQ3aSTQQtZkm The other issue is, that unlike standard globes, LED's only work one way, so if you put it all back together and find that they don't work you will most likely have them in the wrong way and will have to turn them around. FYI, I never worked out a system using a multimeter, I just used trial and error. Be very careful with the holders as alot of mine were very fragile due the many years of heat generated by the globes. They are all OK, however, I almost completely damaged one at one stage as it did start to fall apart. The globes seem to be quite tight in the holders. They do come out. I used a pair of small multi-grip pliers to pull the original globes out and this seemed to work fine as long as I was gentle enough not to squish the globe. Believe it or not, use the pliers on the globe and not the holder! hold the holder with your fingers. Be very carefull when undoing the cluster as well as I would hate to have to replace anything other than the globes! Except for my next point. OK, I also took the opportunity to remove that stupidly anoying reverse beeper from the cluster!!!! I hope I am not alone here is saying that I think this is one of the most anoying sounds of all time! It is located on the main board and can easily be uncliped and chucked in the bin! It is a small grey circular plastic beeper, not much smaller than a 5 cent piece. It is on the main cluster board in the top left hand corner. Here is a handy hint. The third wiring loom from the left, is the one for the main dash lights. If you want to check to see if you have the LED's in the right way, simply pop the board you have to remove back on, pop a couple of screws back in and plug the 2 conectors back in and plug in the loom. Turn your ignition on and check. This will save you from having to put all the screws back and undo them again etc 4 or 5 times! Now, I have cheated and I have included a link which explains how to remove and install your cluster. http://www.luxurymods.com/tutorial7.htm I cannot believe the difference it has made. The dash has gone from a very dated and ordinary yellowish colour to a bright modern clean white. Trust me, you won't be disapointed. Also, I changed the glovebox with a white LED T5. Make sure you turn your headlights or parkers on before you check the glovebox! The light is only active with the lights on. I replaced the passenger and driver side foot wells with white T5's too. The front and rear door lights use the bigger T10's. I found that these were easy to get in Autobarn. (Not to be confused with the incorrectly labeled APC T5's mentioned above.) There are also a few to choose from at the E-Bay store. Take em out and measure them up! I again used white ones, but I guess feel free to experiment. Oh and don't forget the boot! Be carefull when replacing the rear interior lights. I lost the clip on both sides. If it does happen to you, I used a small strip of Gaffa tape and this seems OK for the time being. Toyota use metal clips on the side closest the the rear screen. Both of mine seemed to drop inside the cavity never to be seen again. Remember, Perform this mod at your own risk although most of it is reasonably easy to do if you are patient and careful! Cheers, Chris

Well done mate on a great thread. I'll keep that in mind when it comes time. Chris

Gab, I don't think we have veiwed this thread 500 times each....but you never know! As far as the oil change goes - do yourself a favour and get yourself a pair of ramps. You don't have to pay a fortune for them nowdays either. It makes the job so much easier. While you are there buying them, also buy an oil filter tool , but make sure you get the smaller one. The best one I think, although, I don't have one myself yet, is the kind that attaches to your ratchet. I used a traditional one but still had trouble cos of the limited space. I think the other type is the go. Apart from that it was quite easy I thought, as long as you have the ramps! Yes it was a fantastic F1 race. I only have a hard copy of the Truli, however I'll see if my co-worker mate can drop them onto a DVD for me and I'll see what I can do. He had hundreds of pics in high-res. The other point I guess to make with a car that is just over 10 years old is that it is just over 10 years old. In Japan the car probably hasn't done as many km's but it may have still spent alot of time idling in traffic. Not good for an engine. And, when are we going to see a pic of your car? :gav: Chris

I believe that they are the same

The JZZ30 Soarer has the same front brakes. Chris

Welcome Jodes! I have have just got an Aristo myself. Feel free to post in the Aristo section. We are getting lonely in there! ;) I would like to get some really good ideas on modding my car and you having experience with the Supra I am sure you have alot to share. Chris

Gab, As far as the F1 goes, yes I am a pretty big fan. However, I must say, even though I live 40km away from the track I have never been. Hehehe, further to that, I probably have the opportunity to work there as I work for a BIG imaging company that has a stand at the GP every year to service the pro photographers gear! One of the guys took some great photos though on a 5D (hint on the company I work for) and I have a great close shot on my wall in A4 size of Truli wizzing around the track. You do get to see more on TV, but I should go next year at least for the atmosphere. I dropped the oil tonight and put the TRD oil filter on and Mobil 1 in. It seems to run alot smoother. I even used an engine flush which I have never done before on any of my cars but I figured it may be worth it due to the fact that most Japanese cars would have spent most of their life idling. My mechanic is going to do the rest of the tune-up later this week or early next week and the timimg belt etc maybe next month. I might even get the thing Dyno'ed then as well. Cost reasons. Funny about you strut Gab, cos it was my front passenger one that was gone. Should they go after only 75,000km, or were we ripped off? I had mine replaced and I will keep it for the time being. I think I will go with those ones you were talking about as well cos $1350- brand new sounds good to me. Maybe you could tell me how they go on your Aristo first! I hope we are helping others at least.......it seems we are the only ones talking here, but this thread is getting READ! Please feel free anyone to contribute! Chris

I have just fount out that the FMIC that was featured in HPI #77 is available in 3-4 weeks for AU$549- delivered (within most of Australia -call for comfirmation). The intercooler and the hoses are ready to ship now but they are waiting on the pipes to arrive. This kit, available from Otomoto in Sydney, is small enough to fit behind the standard bar without any many major modifications. All that needs to be done is the bottom bar grill to be removed, the bar cut with a cutting tool of some sort and the tranny cooler bent back a bit. No metal needs to be cut! The great thing about this cooler is the size. It is thick, long rather than high and easily beats the stock unit that sits infornt of the driverside wheel. Most other kits require cutting of metal and aftermarket front bumper bars to fit. For someone who loves tinkering with their car, (and who doesn't), I think it would only take a relaxed day and a few beers afterwards to complete the job. The worst part looks like removing the bumper in the first place. I always like to take my time and start it on a Saturday just in case. I haven't ordered mine yet, but I am really serious about doing it. Anyone else game? :gav: (I don't work for the company that sells the unit. I only know about it from the article in HPI magazine that I picked up from my local newsagent.) Chris

From looking around on the net, it seems to be that the (front) pads to suit the Aristo are the same as those on the JZZ30 Soarer. Is anyone able to confirm this? Anyone recommend pads they have? It would be great if they are as the local brakes places have reference to the Soarer but not the Aristo. I know I can get pads from Japan myself, either genuine Toyota or aftermarket, but it would be handy to do it the other way. Chris

Hey Moooey, thanks for your comments. You will be able to get one from Japan without the wing, or with an aftermarket kit. Like any bodywork, it will come off, however it will require some re-spray work. I think your best option without too much time and effort is to find one from Japan without it if you don't like it. To be honest, the factory boot spoiler looks alot better in the flesh than it does in the photos and believe it or not, as it was only an option in Japan, alot of the Yanks and Poms actually have made comments about mine saying how good it looks! I am with you though, if I had a choice, I would go without it, but now I have it, I am not interested it spending money on a kit just yet as I am looking at other mods well before that! A decent second hand full kit would cost you around the $1000- mark plus fitting and spraying. The kits are generly all fibreglass which means they are probably more prone to getting damaged; especially the bumpers. I am really enjoying the sleeperish look of my car at the moment. I am getting heaps of looks around town and its only been the other import car guys that seem to look and not have a puzzled loook on their face, but a grin as if to say, "I know what you have there." I love the look on the Commondore guys and girls epecially when I blow them away at the lights. I give it just enough to scare the heck out of them....not to mention me! I am not a hoon by any stretch, but I love having the 2JZ-GTE power under my right foot! :P BTW; My 65 year old father enjoys taking it for a spin too! Chris