Driver

Um I am not holding my breath at beating the rotary thats for sure its a 12A J port with 48mm IDA in a Toyota DX, I know he will probably beat me but I want to know by how much, My old AE92 Levin I had was a pretty close match with him so he wants a comparo as well.

No problem holeshoting him he is a bit of a mutant at the wheel. It is going to be a planned drag with a starter so that should even up the cards a bit. Got another mate who wants to pit his rotary against me as well so will make a threesome I think:) Matt I got the filter today thanks so that is all installed, (just finished) good excuse to take the car for a drive to see how it goes. I see what you guys mean about the crapy airbox system, real unipressive, I blocked off the holes into the baffle box so hopefully that will generate a bit more induction roar.

Thanks all It is a 2.3 litre, that sounds pretty hopefull then I might have to give him a call and sort out a drag then, I figured as much that I would be able to wax him as it didn't feel that quick when I was in it and I agree that it isn't worth the asking price of 50 k, so stay tuned....

Hey all I was wondering if anyone knew any spec data on the Mazda 6. I have a mate that has one and wants to race me, however I want to know what I am getting my self into before I commit to a race. I feel pretty sure I will be able to suck his doors off but thought I better do my homework first. :) Have anyone ever raced one or know anything about them I would apreciate a heads up. Thanks Shannon

Hey Matt White Please. Shannon

Hey guys Yeah I got that Highspeed driveline vibration as well from in 6th 5th and sumtimes 4th, I am guessing that it is just resonating at a certern rpm in the drive line, I havn't had a look yet but maybe a rebalence of the driveshaft may fix it. The clunking of first and second is also apparent in my box, nothing to worry about though as once the gearbag warms up the shift quietens dwn abit, trust me its nothin, if you want to hear a noisy gearbox you should hear the one in my truck when it's cold. Shannon

Gee I like the Look of them in that colour.

Hey Muzza Electrical mate, Well thats not entirely correct actually it is both, Usually a mechanical measureing or reading probe/meter and then electrical inputs to your gauge. The easiest way to tell is the oil pressure needle has a slight delay between the time that you put your foot on the go peddel and when the needle settles on its reading, as opposed to being instantanous. This is because the unit for measureing the oil pressure is a small impeller contained in a houseing much like a water turbine or a turbo or something along these lines, anyhow the engine oil pressure spins this turbine wheel which in turn is interpreted into electrical signals that the pressure gauge indicates. The reason for this is a more acurate and less jumpy needle indication. So to you as the motorist you will see a nice stable and smooth needle indication with no fluttering at low engine rpm and low engine oil pressure e.g idle. Hope this is of help Shannon p.s Sorry about the shoddy spelling. I'm not exactly a rocket scientist.

Hey Muzza Depends on what you are after. Platinums are good for extended running between changes however they do not perfrom as well as an iriduim plug or other non platinum performance plug due to the fact that they are built different to last longer. There is always a trade off somewhere. I wouldn't reccomend a splitfire or similar v shaped electrode plug as the tips break off after a while so you have to change them twice as often. (Trust me been racing bikes and into motorsport for years so been there tried that. Enjoy Shannon. :) p.S when and where does toyspeed meet in palmy?

Hey Muzza Go to Belt drive at 179 cuba st they are beside a chainsaw outfit I think, its been a while since I been there, Anyhow thats where repco and all the other cambelt retailers buy there belts fromas they are the importer for Gates Cam belts, Make sure you get the idler pully replaced at the same time as I have seen a few stuffed belts from seized idler pulleys in the past. For the sake of a few extra dollars it is the cheapest insurence you can buy. As for where to get it done in palmy they all charge about $45 to $50 an hour so it is your choice really. If you want to go through a dealer go to TRC Toyota in feilding not manawatu toyota, or non dealer I would reccomend AutoKraft in Palmy or Rob Garrett Auto Services in Feilding, Both places I know as I have mates that work there and they know there *BLEEP*. But Feel free to price up anyplace you want. Hope this helps Shannon.

My choice would be engine, especially if the tooth faily is paying, can always fund the suspension myself :) Nothing wild prob just decompress the cylinders and stiffen up the bottom end a wee bit and bolt on a supercharger (Have to be different) motec comp and maybee a 100hp nitros kit. Would want to keep some reliability so just some mild mods. If exhaust is part of the engine catagory then 2 1/2 inch with some stainless headers. Thats all I wont be too greedy :) Shannon

Jase beaut job. Put me down for side and rears when they get done. My thoughts on colours would be a brighter colour if you have tints so as to have them seen better, my car is blue so either white or gold etc.

Hey there just in the middle of throwing my whole factory system in the rubbish and the rears are 6x9 as Corey said, and wattage are.... wait for it... 15 watts paper cone, genuine crap. :) Fronts are 61/2 inch mounted in a plastic pod about 71/2 inches that require drilling out as they are riveted in place to the door skin. About the only thing I have to gripe about with the tezza sound system but real easy to work on. Front wattage about 10watts. Factory tweeters arn't to bad, don't have a wattage on them but they are lieing in the bin as well. Hope that helps Shannon

Hey 1/ Shell Helix 10w40, (Have always used it in my road bike and other cars) 2/ $55 to $65 on 98 octane 3/ 500 ish kms only county driving as I live in the sticks.

Hey Chief Yeah thats normal for your battery to go flat over that period of time especially as you have an alarm, They draw a bit of current in active mode and depending on the reserve capacity of your battery will depend on how long it will run the alarm before the battey goes flat. one option is you could start your car up for 10 minutes or so every couple of days to keep the battery charged especially if you want your alarm active while you aren't there. Another option that you could try is to put a trickle charger on your battery while you are not using the car this would keep your battey fully charged and allow you to keep your alarm active instead of taking your terminal off, Especially as batterys don't like being subjected to rapeats of going flat as this will cause it to have a fit and die. Hope this helps. Shannon