Sapphire Cam

I forgot to add (I'm not sure if there's any relevant/correlation though), front rotors replaced and brake service done by Lexus just before this started - hence me looking further into any potential brake issue.

Haven't been able to replicate the issue since. The very last time it happened though, I put in into neutral, revved it, dropped back a gear and so on. This time I didnt notice too much of a power loss - eventually the shudder gradually disappeared and hasn't returned. I have had half a dozen goes at it to try and get it happening again, and haven't come across the problem since. I have been doing a fair bit of reading around on other motoring forums and a few other makes recently (Ford, BMW, Merc, Toyota) have had a few owners mention exactly the same problem. Most of them went back to a brake issue where a sticking piston may actually not be retracting enough leading to a pad that is 'dragging' - eventually the piston retracts. The car didn't 'pull' or lurch any particular way though when it happened however. No high flow air filter fitted (as far as I know) - no mods done of my vehicle whatsoever. As I said tyres recently balanced and aligned, but I'll find some time to check them out. I really can't ascertain whether its chassis or engine - it was difficult to determine where the shudder was originating. Simon, thanks so much for hypothesising on where the shudder may've come from.

Emailed Lexus dealer to let them know this morning. They told me half as much too (no leads but coils - you learn something every day!). You're right, it might be a plug (as my old C'dore years ago after a service felt exactly the same way - shuddering, and it was a dodgy plug in that instance), but wondering why its only happening at speed. Incidentially I believe plugs were replaced as part of my 75k service, and it was only after the service that this issue has come to light. Lexus refute this (ie. dodgy plug), as the ECU would be issuing 'code' if that was the case, and there has been no code.

I'm running 98RON - currently Shell V-power. It happened again tonight on the freeway, but given I was less panicky this time I drove for a fair bit longer through the shudder. I put it in neutral and it still did the shudder, also went into sports mode and changed up and down a gear - still did it. That little experiment probably rules out the transmission then. Opened window to try and listen to engine - sounded normal. Still no warning lights/beeps/messages. Didn't notice any loss in power, just a little bit of lag associated with the shudder (as the car is having to work harder as its running rough). Noticed as if the sound was coming more from the rear this time. After about 20-30 secs at 95-100kmh the shudder gradually subsided - it didn't instantly subside, it did over time and at a constant speed. So the mystery deepens. Spoke with my mechanic today who looks after my wife's Subaru and he said if I could rule out the transmission (which I reckon I have done), then it could be possibly a hairline fracture in a plug lead and at speed and vibration there might be a slight loss in current to the plug, leading to some mistiming, as the graphite material in the lead moves apart and then perhaps compacts back over time. But I revved it to 4,000 during the shudder and it felt and responded normally. As baffled as ever....

Thanks for the quick responses guys - but no after-market HIDs - standard factory halogen headlight assemblies. Happened twice with headlights on initially, today without! - so no link there - nevertheless a frightening wake up for owners with certain aftermarket HID setups.

Hi gang, Here is a mystery for you all to sink your teeth into.... Symptom: Random shuddering and reduction in power at >85-90km/h. This happened on the freeway all of a sudden a few weeks ago one late evening. I instantly thought I had a flat tyre, as shudder was significant and very worrying. Pulled over on the freeway - checked tyres with pressure gauge all good. Took next exit off freeway. Car drove fine - hit a 80km/h downhill stretch 10 mins later - cruised without any power or brakes, shudder occurred again at 85-90. No warning messages, no beeps, no warning lights. Called Lexus the very next day to alert them. Dropped the car in the following day. Gave an inspection and drive test. Said it was some unbalanced tyres. They rebalanced all 4 tyres and re-checked the recent alignment. Embarrassed because I said it was more than unbalanced tyres, because that doesn't happen randomly or all of a sudden. Have driven at >85km/h a few times since even on same stretch of freeway - all good...... But today on the freeway, same thing happened again. Called Lexus who asked me to drop the car in. Went with a long test drive with Chief Technician - and typically it didn't occur for us!! Afterwards, they ran a diagnostic on the engine, no codes or messages came up. Also checked transmission fluid colour and viscosity - all good. Driveshaft also inspected at my request. All fine. Due to its complete randomness I have ruled out brakes, suspension, steering and wheels (all freshly balanced and aligned). Lexus said if it was a lead or plug it would be happening frequently and come up with a warning message on the dash, as well as come out in the diagnostic report. Three things perhaps - 1. bad fuel (but I have filled up a few times over this period at different outlets);2. it's transmission related (torque converter maybe??). But to have bad fuel (water?) impacting performance on just three occasions over 4 weeks and at high speed seems unlikely. So do I have an issue with the transmission? - despite Lexus giving it the all clear. 3. The other thing I thought (and thought initially after Lexus replaced a weeping seal on the driveshaft at the 75k service) was a misaligned driveshaft. Perhaps it is random slipping out of alignment occasionally and when I hit 90km/h it causes the effect of wobbling the wheels. Then perhaps the driveshaft slips back into alignment and therefore no problem. They did allegedly look at the driveshaft and said it was fine. Any ideas - would love your thoughts. Lexus are completely baffled, as am I!

Geez I thought that wasn't bad considering all the driveaway costs plus you have the EMV, which would bring it to 65k driveaway without any negotiation. Having said that, Lexus are keen to move more IS250s after a few disappointing months sales wise.

I use 'Melbourne Auto Check' (for Melb: (03) 9850 8000 for all my pre-purchase inspections. I think these guys ARE 'State Roads' as you say - but that is misleading, they aren't affiliated with any agency. They aren't the cheapest, but I find the most rigorous. I think you may find that dealers typically use "Subject to RACV inspection" as a generic phrase. Call up the dealer and say the provider will be 'State Roads'. Shouldn't be a problem - if the dealer has a problem with that, then that should be a warning for you!! The guy Ive used from Melb Auto Cehck is actually a Lexus owner too! Even though I was buying through a Lexus dealership I got him along and he did a 90min inspection, drive test and compression test too. About $200-220, and he picked up a couple of minor things which I got rectified before getting hold of the keys. Its a good bargaining tool also - one thing picked up was that one panel had been resprayed (no accident, was a 'keying' incident). They check paint thickness as well. I could see it had and wasn't overly fussed, but because it was picked up independently and was 'in writing', I went back to my sales consultant and said I was annoyed at that and therefore wanted some 'sweetening of the deal'. I got another $2k off the purchase price! These guys are very good - after they've inspected the car, they'll have a chat on the phone with you about their findings and then e-mail through their report. They also sometimes deliberately come early, so they can do a 'cold start' test - as they've found a number of dealerships (of all makes) will warm the car up before the inspector arrives!!! Oldest trick in the book! Highly recommended. I was set on this Forester for my wife 2 years ago, and it looked and drove good - all service history etc. - ready to buy, until the inspection showed it had had a major rear ender a while back (current owner was shocked and upset that he wasn't aware from the owner before him) and some questionable welds and repair work done, and was strongly advised by Melb Auto Check not to purchase. Next Forester we looked at, the inspector couldn't get on the phone quick enough to say 'buy buy buy!' - as the seller had the price at an absolute steal given the great mech condition of the car.

Jarc - I'm very surprised and disappointed. My 2006 Prestige recently had its 75k service (current 78k on the clock), and the car is practically running as if its just come off the showroom floor. My dealership in Melbourne (MCL) has been 'second to none' in its level of service and support, so I hope you'll be getting the same treatment up in Sydney. The Lexus 'Extra Care' warranty is quite comprehensive so make sure that your dealership squeezes every drop out of the warranty to get this work done. Trim is a bit of a grey area under the extended warranty however - but given you are a new customer and have just picked up your vehicle its in your right mind to get this repaired/replaced. The other option is to take the car to another Lexus dealer and speak to them honestly about what has happened.

Chris, sorry to hear that mate, and I don't have any specific advice other than to ring another Lexus dealer and perhaps part company with Sutherland and try another dealer. I can't recommend my dealership highly enough, but they're in Melbourne so that won't help you! - but in the Lexus family as they are franchised (like most car dealerships), the level of service and attitude does vary. It might provide an opprotunity for another Lexus dealer to show you a better level of service in order to get you to switch as it were. Any one from greater Sydney that could recommend another dealer??!

Somethings not right there Lift-yo'. Unless you are crawling all the way, stop-start and never getting past 20-30km/h. I'm doing about 30km distance a day, mainly at 40-50 km/h, a little bit of stop/start, one good 2-3km stretch of driving at 70km/h and getting between 9.8 and 10.2 L/100km - week in week out. I'm not revving the bejeezuz out of the car, but I drive in sport mode and push the car a little at times and (like most other drivers) getting 7 on the open road and 10 around town. I'm assuming you're running it on 95RON as a minimum and has been tuned by your Lexus dealer. That sounds far too rich, and nudging the economy figures seen in the IS-F!

"Personally i believe ppl in general don't complain enough, they either can't be bothered going through the process or they get put off by some BS business's usually come up whit. But they should if they are not happy, cause lets face it we all work hard for our money and nobody tells us you can have an extra couple of hundred bucks for doing a *HIT job." I got an admission from an insider within this insurance company that they (and most insurance providers) are now doing jobs on the cheap now because for the majority of the repair jobs most customers either don't notice the faults in the work, are too busy, just want their car back quickly, couldn't be bothered to complain. Therefore they get away with it, and can offer lower premiums as a result = more customers on the books. The far majority of minor 'dings' are typically (their words!) caused by women in car parks who don't have the keen eye for panels and paint, and don't drive a Lexus, which have some of the tightest/precise panel gaps of any make. As a result they make money from their stingyness - and for the odd customer that still complains and the job has to be done again, they are still ahead financially. So for the 100 jobs where they have saved $1,000 by doing a below-average job, there might only be a few jobs where the customer has said 'not good enough' so they have to spend $5,000 more to get it to the customers satisfaction - they're still ahead aren't they?! Perhaps the same "philosophy" adopted by Solartint? Best of luck and keep at them. Don't threaten them with any tribunal/litigation just yet. That can have the opposite effect.

My 5 cents worth....Get a recommendation from your dealership. Go through them possibly - I know it wont be the cheapest, but if they come recommended by your dealership and something goes wrong (as what has happened with PLZ17 unfortunately) your dealership might be able to throw their weight around a bit. As an aside - I had a terrible experience with a body repairer in Melbourne recently (yes, a Lexus preferred outlet), but these problems were compounded by an inaccurate assessment by the insurer (was a very minor accident). Rather than losing my cool (which I sometimes do when unprofessionalism is evident!!), I acted professionally, calmly and wrote to the insurance company as well as Lexus, provided tangible evidence (emails, photos) and then followed up with a series of civilised phone calls. Needless to say this approach paid off and in the end I got an agreeable outcome and (finally) some first-class rectification work done by a different Lexus-preferred repairer. So keep on Solartint and stay calm and professional and hopefully you'll get a desired outcome.

It sounds as if its NOT the motor, if its eventually closing and therefore doing its job, albeit with confused messages from the circutry. You may have tried this but.....Turn on accessories, and push in and hold the sunroof button for 5 seconds. See if that works.

Had my 75k service a few weeks ago at a lexus dealer.... Dont have the receipt with me, but was low 700s, and that included a fuel system clean (which I asked for). You should not bring your car along for its 75k service with a full tank of petrol either (they will ask you to re-book it in). Tank should be half-full or less (due to the replacement of the fuel filter). My car is on extended warranty (2 years to go), and I'll probably only get one, possibly two more services before that expires. Once the warranty expires, I'll be going to Toyota after that. Silver250 - as for the extended warranty being a dealer warranty, Im surprised at that - I thought it was a standard Lexus Australia product. My warranty is known as 'Lexus Extra Care', where my dealership may need to ring Lexus Australia to log any work done.

Be VERY CAREFUL with Armorall, or any similiar product as on contact with some perspex areas (notably the stereo + A/C displays on the standard non-EMV centre console as well as the perspex in front of the instrument cluster) will go cloudy if not wiped off immediately. Armorall is fine for the hard opaque plastics around the interior like door openings for example. I actually use a very light silicon spray (spray on cloth then rub, not directly on dash) for the rubber dash area and rubberised areas on top of doors etc.. which works well.

I see you havent had a reply for a while, so I'll thrown in my five cents.... How about head to your hardware store and grab a high pressure cleaner and have a go yourself. Might be a P.I.T.A to get down on your back and get to your undercarriage. I have a base model Karcher pressure cleaner, bought it new for $90 and it does a good job for removing any stubborn mud-dirt etc. If you took it somewhere several times, you'd probably get up towards your purchase price. Anyway as I said, just a thought.

Mam1 - run a search on this forum for both VVTis and extended warranty - I'm confident there are dedicated topic posts for both. There is a fair bit of discussion on both issues (rather than repeat ourselves here).

Hmmm, don't discount Domdom's comment about oil. I'd be chucking a litre or two in if the dipstick shows allowance for that. The IS250 does go through a fair bit of oil (which is normal - check owners manual for confirmation of this) and for a car that's a few years old, it may go through a few litres between services. Don't wait for the scheduled services to get the oil level rectified. My car (2006, 75k) got a bit noiser about 67-68k too, a little similiar to what you're saying - but certainly not unnerving. Checked the oil level, and it was down a fair bit. Put in about 1-1.5L, and voila! the engine ran a lot quieter, esp. when cold. Or the oil you have in is not viscous enough and is a little too thin. Just a thought, but don't discount something as simple as that.

I understand the programming of your automated garage door to your remote key is a US feature only#. I could be wrong, but you can ask your dealer, but Im pretty confident that we can't do that in Oz. Also re. your phone, I know the 'techies' at my dealership are often helping clients with the phone/bluetooth set-up, so again give them plenty of time and get them onto that as soon as you arrive. # - the other one is low tyre pressure sensors - another US feature only. Not sure why we in Oz don't get these 'radio emitting features' - might be a legal thing.

See attachment for the Lexus TSIB for squeaky front seat. Lexus TSIB - Seat Squeak.pdf

Don't quote me on this, and don't get upset but just a warning... but I was told by my service manager that under Lexus policy, technically they are not obliged to address minor rattles after a certain period (and its not the warranty period either). I forget what it is - my service manager told me a couple of years ago - I think it may actually be 30,000km or 2 years or something along those lines. Nevertheless, your service team will typically ignore that directive from Lexus Australia - but it's just a heads up for you all, just in case. But I got the guys to address a minor buzz on the parcel shelf during a recent service - no questions asked - fixed the problem, and my car is a 2006 with 75k on the clock. The rattle that is referred here near the RH AC vent, sounds similiar to one I had near the LH AC vent a long long time ago. It actually just disappeared one day, and has never returned! My car is 5 years old now, and along the way Ive had a couple of little niggling buzzes and rattles, and if one has been current at the time of the service, Ive had my service manager get the team to look at it, but I have invariably found that these rattles (which is probably a harsh word really - not a rattle in the trueist sense, more a 'creak or 'strain') disappear over time. Its almost as if the panels/componentry 'settle in'. One correlation I have certainly noticed is that (and goes the same for other forum members too) is that the change in seasons tends to bring these creaks out more. Lexus has made a rod for its own back, by making such a quiet and snug cabin that we owners hear everything!! SQUEAKY SEAT - If anyone wants it, I can post the Lexus TSB for that, however Ive already done that in another post somewhere. (Sorry for long post!)

Acceleration 0-100kmh, I think officially is 8.1sec. Have seen a claim somewhere of 7.8 (that might be the 0-60mph figure though - 96kmh). In the real world, you'd have to say 8.5sec give or take. Not that quick, but fast enough, faster than many of its rivals and significantly faster than the 320i and C200. If you can afford the extra 8-9k (driveaway at the end of the day - the gap is more like that), grab a is350. If you can wait 4-6 months, reckon there will be some 350 demos out there by then for low-mid 50s and that would be a top buy. Still a top buy new, but better value as a demo. I bought a demo through a Lexus dealer - was 9 months old, only 10k on the clock, but I saved about 8k!! With the is350 also I understand the satnav and rev camera is standard in the base model whereas in the is250 its not, so if you're keen for satnav, then it almost becomes a no-brainer....the 350 obviously. Moonroof is widely known as the only real option (in any vehicle) where it will be factored into a resale price. I may do the same in a couple of years when the new IS range comes out (grab a demo), or the pressure comes from the missus and we'll look at an RX at the time instead.

My five cents worth.....(sorry for the long post) I have two negatives - 1. the programming of the automatic (it hits the next gear too early - but thats overcome by driving it in Sports mode and doing the changes yourself - heaps more fun, and you get far more out of the car) and 2. back seat leg room. The back seat is beautiful and incredibly comfortable, but that's after you've contorted yourself to get in. Not that my back seat gets used much, but if you're taking more than 1 passenger often you need to consider it. The main problem is with the fuel tank being placed over the back axle (for balance) leading to no foot space whatsoever underneath the rear seat. That's the negatives out of the way!..... Too many positives to mention, but the overall one for me is build quality and driveability of the car. It is simply beautifully put together (and rivals the mid-Europeans (ie. 5-series, E-class and A6 etc.) in finish, and the only cheap finish in my eyes (which youll see plenty of cheap finishes in the base model BM or Merc) is the faux-aluminum trim on the door handles and the digital clock, but that's pretty trivial when you think about it. The rest of the car is second-to-none in its class (at the time 2006/07) on materials used, finish, panel fit etc.). Driveability is first class, and I've test driven plenty. It beats the C200, 159, A4 and Passat. It would be just pipped by the 3-series, but only because the steering is more fun and direct in the BM. BM ride is nice also (the run-flat issue with BM is a bit of a beat up). The FWD makes I mention below dont come close in terms of handling and road manners. BTW, its still a head turner even 4 years on. Im still being cornered in car parks by people wanting to comment about the car, and ask about it. People are stunned when I tell them its nearly 5 years old - a garaged well cared for Lexus will stay more youthful than just about anything on the road. Other options to consider for 35k would be a 2008 Accord Euro (Luxury spec, but brakes a worry for me - plenty of fade), 2008 Mazda 6 (Luxury spec - still an underrated car IMO), 2007 A4 (but Ive never liked the steering, ride and front-wheel dynamics of the Audis), or perhaps an Aurion (plenty of guts and reliable). Personally, Id give Merc and BMW a wide berth (and Audi to a point) - great makes and vehicles but in this budget you have to do those 3 brands properly (never go base-model, you'll feel you've cheated yourself and you bought a badge and nothing else) - so that means getting a much older vehicle for your budget, and could lead to higher running costs and reliability issues (ever noticed how many 5-8yr old BMWs you see broken down on the road?!). A 3-yr old 325i from a BMW dealer with an extended factory warranty would be a great buy, but for $35k? Nup. I had a Audi 1.8T for a week (on loan from dealer) a few years ago - found the turbo-lag very unnerving and a fair bit of understeer as well. I'd never ever buy Audi new (due to their extortionist polices re. options lists), but a 3 year old one might be ok - still think their driveability is a fair way behind BMW and IS250. In the "entry-level prestige" class at $35-40k (ie. 2006-2007) I simply can't go past the IS250. Id put far more trust in the reliability also in a Lexus that age than a German. I researched and researched and test drove to death over a dozen models back in 2006 and as desparate as I wanted a European, in the end the IS250 won hands down. Surprised even myself! No drivetrain issues to look out for on the IS250, and if its been serviced through Lexus, a few little niggles that the model may have (like all cars), would be fixed promptly. Here endeth my essay!! Good luck with your hunt. This is one of the hardest classes to make a decision on. The German badge does have strong pulling power (nearly sucked me in), so stay as objective as possible. You might find a Honda or Mazda or even Nissan might be to go. Just don't buy a French car!!! Again, sorry to all for the stupidly long post!

Thats very nice to hear. Can you tell me which dealer you got the key's cut n programmed? I think i've read it somewhere that it would cost $500 to program the key.. And that scared me... There are specialists out there (autoelectricians particularly I think) who'll do this service for next to nothing. Classic case was my wifes Golf key died one day. Went to VW and they quoted $350 for new battery and programming. Took it to our local mechanic who whilst servicing the car for half the price of VW, also got the same thing done for the key (new battery from Battery World and programming from autoelectrician around the corner) all for $40. Gotta love VW. Needless to say (and for other quality and service reasons too), the Golf is gone, and we'll never buy another VW ever again!