Sapphire Cam

@ldc - Ha! I got you (there were other comments here about rear windscreen/rear parcel shelf as well). You describe exactly what I had - when my car was less than 12 months old. I understand from the technician its actually a bit of insulation that has moved over time. They had a look at it - and readjusted the insulation. The clicking sound disappeared for a while but then returned for a bit - then went away for good and has never returned. Only annoyance with the IS for me have been a few niggly rattles. Car has been pretty close to spot on otherwise. What is interesting is that my car 6 years on has no rattles at all. Most have just seemed to work themselves out. I wonder whether its because the car is assembled very tight (tighter than most vehicles), and over time the gaps loosen a bit and there is a bit of give and then no rattles. But as I said, from about Year 3 to today (Year 6), car has virtually been rattle free.

I'm wondering whether the rattle that some of you are referring to is a misaligned lug inside the C-pillar. You think its coming from the rear window and its not, its just a plastic lug that has slipped out of alignment and is a simple fix for the technician to remove the velour trim off the C-pillar and tighten the lug. Moonroof has been a big let down for this vehicle. Reckon its the single biggest source of rattle complaint for the IS. Reckon the designers/engineers back in Japan will have ringing ears about it.

There are other threads in the forum on exactly this topic. Have a read.... Related to a couple faulty VVTi controllers for memory. Fixed in vehicles post-2008 I understand. Still can be an issue for 05-07 makes. Mine did it - got it fixed under warranty. Not critical I understand, don't think its going to cause any abnormal wear on the engine - just sounds a bit unnerving. If your car is post-warranty period, then best to speak to your nearest Lexus dealer. If it was listed as a 'quality recall' (as opposed to a safety recall - there is a difference), then Lexus should still repair out of warranty. But don't quote me on that!

Frustrating because it could a number of things - how about just taking it down to a suspension place independent of Lexus - pay your $20-30 for an inspection of shocks and brakes and see what they say? Just an idea. The other (unlikely, but possible) is a 'spot weld' issue. Some IS250s have a couple of spot welds in the C-pillar that can creak a bit. Quite rare but can happen to the IS250 (happened to mine - fixed by dealer under warranty). Dealer and I initially thought it was suspension related, but we got to the bottom of it, after pinpointing the noise (incidentally from the back left of the car, as I said in the C-pillar, but initially the sound felt like it was coming from the back left wheelarch. 'Clunk' maybe not the right word to describe - perhaps not - certainly didn't feel 'heavy', like anything with mass moving, more of creak/pop but a noticeable sound. Does it do it only on potholes. What about on sudden accel/decel? turning? braking hard? Mine happened randomly, but was associated with acceleration from stand still and some potholes. As I said, this idea is from leftfield (spot weld), but don't rule it out.

Mate - that simply sounds like a loose connection to me - simple as that. If under warranty, take to a Lexus dealer for an immediate fix. If not, a trip to a car audio professional and they'll sort it out surely. If the unit itself is sounding crap, (buzzing or clicking) it still could just be the result of a poor connection. Just wonder whether the problem is at the amp terminal for your Sub channel? Also check there is no moisture around the terminals either. You audio professional should be able to isolate the sub and run it through another amp and sound source he would have to determine if the sub unit is damaged. In my experience, its very difficult to 'blow' a half decent sub, so Im thinking (hoping for you), that is a terminal issue (short/moisture/loose).

Yeah, its a massive excess! ($2k). If Lexus dealers were smart, they could make some more money by adding a little bit extra to your service bill or something (as an option if the customer wishes) by dropping the excess down to a more reasonable $400 or something, just like the hire car companies typically offer.

Me personally, the GS250. But it comes down to what you are really after. If you are keen on a performance-weighted car, you'll have to go with the IS350 - in a straight line its nearly 3 seconds quicker to 100. But I feel the current special edition that is being promoted through the dealerships at the moment, doesn't seem a huge advantage price wise. Over time, the higher-spec models of any car (not just Lexus, but any make) will depreciate faster - but I'm sure that's hardly a main consideration at this stage! You'll probably find the standard level of gear on the entry-level GS is comparable to the top-spec IS anyhow. You also need to bear in mind that the IS350 is based on a chassis, design and drivetrain that is 7 years old (shows how good it has stood up over that period - it still competes favourably with some of its German counterparts that have undergone 2 or sometimes 3 (in the case of Audi) major model updates over that time). As such, the IS range is due for a complete overhaul I believe next year (there is a rumour that the new 3rd-gen IS might have its world debut at the Motor Show in Sydney in October for it to hit dealerships in Q2 2013). The GS250, whilst using the same engine as in the current 250 is a brand new vehicle - with lots more goodies as standard, and is a better ride, larger cabin and superb interior. It still goes ok (0-100kmh in low 8s - not fast enough for some, but would be for many). From what I've seen in the flesh, the $80k base GS rivals the 100-110k Germans in terms of equipment, refinement and finish. So in summary, my choice - clearly the GS250, because its the car is essentially 7 years "fresher" than the IS. But if you really want some grunt on the road, the IS350 with 18"s will get you class-leading pace and handling - but it could be a obsolete model in under a year.

WOW! Didn't know hardware like this was avaiable - thought it was more programming and tuning only. Sounds very interesting indeed - and even more so if you can install discreetely into your dashboard as a one-button job, as seen in the example image of the ISF dash - not some tacked on box with exposed wires! However, I wont be considering anything like this whilst my warranty is still valid! I also would be giving my insurance company a call first as well. Those barrstads look for any possibly way out of a claim these days.

PRICE - For 35k you could get a 2007 Sports Lux, or 2008 Prestige. With any second hand car, the premium you pay on the extra 'bells n whistles' diminishes, so the difference between Prestige and SL is about $15k new, its only about $3k after 5 years! RELIABILITY - One of the most reliable vehicles on the road. Mine is 6 years old, and over that time have only had a slight squeak in the sunroof (fixed by dealer), and a weeping rear diff seal (fixed by dealer under warranty). So pretty trivial you could say. PERFORMANCE - Certainly not a performance car, but 0-100km/h you'll do in just over 8sec. Some would say this is slow, but its over a second quicker than its direct competitors (entry level 3-series, 159, A4, C-class etc.) Also consider the IS is RWD, unlike the Audi and 159. Many reviewers and owners say the driving dynamics are comparable to a 3-series - very well balanced car. But keep the car well serviced, always run 98RON (even though you dont have too - SHell V-Power is the best I find for performance and economy) and use the paddle-shifts to drive it 'manually'. The car is a different beast then. In standard auto mode it does feel pedestrian - but hold the gear just that one second longer, and its a completely different car, esp as the torque kicks in at higher revs! FEATURES - The features you mention in stop-start and leather are all standard. In fact the basic Prestige (which I have) includes many features that are/were options on the comparable Euros. You'll find the far far majority of all IS' come with sunroofs, so you should'nt have a problem there. Satnav/DVD is either in the Prestige with EMV pack fitted, or standard in the Sports Lux. You talk about re-fitting the sound system. Check out other entries in this forum on the current sound systems. The 14-spkr 5.1 300W Mark Levison fitted in many cars is brilliant, and even the 13-spkr Pioneer 190W standard system on the Prestige puts many so-called premium systems in other makes to shame. SERVICING COSTS - Generally speaking - through a Lexus dealer they sit half-way between your standard Japanese makes (ie. Mazda, Nissan, Mitsubishi @ $300-400/service), and the Europeans ($800-1,300/service). The major 90k and 180k services for the IS are expensive if through dealer though (iridium spark plugs the main culprit). THINGS TO LOOK OUT FOR - Just the usual things when checking a car (look for major collision evidence, tyre wear, alignment etc.). Nothing mechanical to look out for that Im aware of. Of course, always check service history too. COMMON PROBLEMS - Hardly problems, but little niggles. Squeaky drivers seat, 'eggy' exahust smell (but only after sudden acceleration, with windows open, and varys with fuel types). LIttle rattle in sunroof. Soft paintwork (Take care of it). As I said, one of the most reliable vehicles on the road. Scan this forum to look for other 'problems', but as I say their mainly little niggles. BODY - Plenty of after market DIY options available, esp imported from the US. Again, scan this forum and you'll see 1,001 different ideas! It's not my cup of tea personally, but there are plenty of options, esp with Lexus bringing in the F-sport concept a couple of years back. ..........Lets just say, when time comes for me to update - its going to take something bloody good for me not to seriously consider the next-gen IS (due out late 2013 I believe). The IS for me has been brilliant.

Cheers - thanks for the tip. Thanks for the reminder re. the new paintwork!

Im wanting the give my car the 'once over' after it comes back from the panel beaters (just a minor bingle - idiot colleague hit my stationary car whilst parking in my work car park!)....I've been a big fan of Meguiars through reputation and the leather products and the waterless car wash products I use from them. I want to do a very light 'cut' (just to remove the 'spider webbing' - my car is 6 years old, always garaged but over the years has got that typical lightly scratched/swirly look now). What do you all recommend from Meguiars as an 'all-in-one' polish/wax with a light (#1) cut needed? Would the NXT 2.0 wax discussed here give me the 'all-in-one' result (a very light cut and final shine?)

Certainly, if its a brand new car (and therefore brand new set of speakers), "burning in" the speakers will help a little. I wouldn't say it makes any material change, but it gives the chance for the speaker diapraghms/cones to soften and settle a little bit - I wouldn't call it a huge difference, but it will help. I find for studio headphones, especially the top-end ones I've had from Audio-Tecnica and Sennheiser it can take months for them to wear in. For you, it may indeed take a few months as well! zBad - For your .mp3 issue, it sounds to me its how you are encoding. Freeware or standard conversions done via iTunes etc. don't do the best job. Don't underestimate the importance of decent software when converting to mp3. Of course, you should be selecting 320kbps if you can, to get the best possible sound, 192kbps as a minimum. Anything below that (128 is the typical default for most software) and the quality drops away fast. I use Steinberg Wavelab for most of my encoding/decoding for mp3's. Its a professional software suite and it takes its time to encode/decode and it makes a big difference. Also there will be some loss as well as the audio signal is going through cable from your iPod/media player (as an analog signal) into the unit via the AUX input, whereas with CD/DVD its a digital lossless signal via the laser. If you want the best sounding mp3 experience, encode your tunes to 320kbps using a good piece of software, and then burn them onto a CD (you can set them up in folders of course). You will notice a difference - I can assure you of that!

It mainly because decent systems are now incorporating sub-woofers. Cheaper in-car and at-home systems won't pick up the low bass regardless of how much is on the recording. On cheaper speakers, too much sub-bass will actually interfere with the reproduction of bass in a system without a sub hooked up (sorry too hard to explain in not too many words). So it can be a double-negative of sorts - especially with those cheap n nasty iPod docking station type "hi-fi systems". So I don't think the sub-bass enhancement of the past decade is due to the onset of cheaper systems, its the fact the technology exists (I believe primarily due the work in the early 80s by Lucasfilm (THX etc.)) Back to the original topic (sorta), why can't ML/Lexus etc. offer a lovely touch screen 10-band EQ or something on future audio systems, (where you could slide you finger up n down on each freq) instead of being left with crude Bass/Mid/Treb controls. Surely the programming would be there for drivers to save EQ settings and have pre-programmed EQ settings like we see in iPods etc. That level of functionality would sort out many of the issues we have, especially as it is very individual. It's why seperate add-on EQ units have been around for 30-odd years for car audio enthusiasts. I believe there might be some after-market set-ups you could install using existing touch screen that might offer a bigger, more user-defined EQ.

Your car audio friend refers to 'mid-bass' as being a concern for some Lexus owners. Well that's exactly where I was coming from too as well (with my standard Pioneer system) - i made mention earlier that I thought the woofers let my system down a bit. So Im glad to hear him saying exactly the same thing. And when I have remastered crappy mp3s given to me by friends to decode them back to .wav and re-master them back onto CD for driving, Im having to add a lot more than I should in that 150-500Hz to make them sound good in my in-car system. Its that mid-bass (your car audio friend is right in terming it that) from about 150Hz to 500Hz or so where with older recordings this is as low as it gets, so bass guitars and the kick drum and the lower end of guitars etc might sound like its missing. Over the past 10-15 years or so, sub-bass treatments are commonplace in mastering which artifically boosts the harmonics created and also artifically accentuates the frequencies below 100Hz or so (65-80Hz is typically the 'hot spot' for sub-bass boosting in the studio - makes a huge difference to bass guitar/synth). Now earlier comments by a few owners on this thread make mention about how good classical sounds on the Lexus systems. Well don't hold this against me, but I'm actually a classicly trained musician and was in a variety of orchestras for years (despite my preference to listen/write/produce rock/electronic). Orchestral music does not have deep bass - no instrument naturally generates anything below about 150Hz, unless its a harmonic. Even your deep basoons, tubas, double bass and timpani are not that bassy at all - compared with electronic instrumentation. (Many modern classical soundtracks - Harry Potter, Avatar, Star Wars etc. now subtley have bass synth overdubbed in certain sections to get the bass effect that is inherently not there with orchestral) So this again adds weight to this whole thread about the deficiency in the IS (ML and Pioneer) and even other Lexus systems being the mid-bass, as your audio friend quite rightly says. Sounds to me now that the ML and Lexus boffins have been tuning their systems based on a pre-conceived (perhaps stereotypical!) notion that all Lexus drivers listen to classical!!! (The 'POS-ALL' setting is a Pioneer setting - not sure its offered in the ML - but its by far and away the best DSL setting for the Pioneer)

Yeah it does....music is certainly very personal. All I can say is Im fussy, and I have driven some bands mad with the amount of fine-tuning I do when it comes to finalising and mastering a recording. However there are a number of extreme steps you could do if you are really particular (but this is ridiculously extreme, however I have heard of it being done)... - Grab a laptop with some half-decent music editing software (even trial demo 'lite' versions are probably good enough - just need the metering functions) - Get/borrow/hire/steal a half-decent studio microphone (stereo preferably to determine stereo imaging), yet most mics are mono - Play your favourite track through a car stereo system you really like - Record the mic input and take a snapshot of the EQ and loudness profile (with a stereo mic you could take a snapshot of the stereo field as well) - Then do exactly the same in YOUR car (same track, at the same volume with same mic placement) and compare. Most music editing software these days has a comparison function, when it can highlight where the differences are. It should highlight to you where your system is lacking in what you want, and overcome it by EQ &/or updating the speakers. - You could go even further by doing the same with the track directly from your hi-fi CD player, and see what the differences are. - This is what we do for bands who say they want their tunes to have a final mastered sound like a particular CD (and I 'profile' the CD for its EQ fingerprint, loudness, stereo image etc.) and then master according to that profile. Various styles of music, audio engineers, hi-fi systems have their own 'fingerprint' that you can discover if you are pedantic about it. Yes, this sounds over-the-top, but I have heard of this being done, and I believe its one of the tools used for car companies to 'tune' their upper end systems. Using your eyes to analyse music is all the go these days. I've never done it - I'd love to do it one day if I had so much spare time on my hands! Not having the ML system myself, I'm just wondering if there is any fine-tuning that could be done through the (hacked) diagnostics menu. Maybe there might even be a discussion forum/FAQ page on the ML website? Audiophiles are a fussy lot, but audiophiles that also own a Lexus are uber-fussy!!

I have the humble Pioneer in my IS, and I reckon its the best standard/non-optioned audio set up in any car on the market under $80k. The ML is better (Ive tried it a few times during my time with loan cars from services), but not by a lot - certianly not worth the $ premium that is commands. It took me a while to get sound I wanted. I found bass response is best set as 'POS ALL'. With 'POS REAR', 'POS DRIVER' and the other positional settings on the Pioneer seem to cut the response to the sub a bit. So with the ML - yes, turn off the DSP/Surround - definitely!! @UltrasonicISF - the signal from a DVD is always going to be better than from the iPod. Always! The iPod and other digital media players are playing from a compressed audio file (such as an .mp3, .aac etc.). No matter what encoding software and settings you use, you will NEVER EVER get the same audio quality as from a 16-bit, 44.1kHz signal that you get from a CD or DVD. .Mp3 can reduce the original .wav file size by as much 90%, so that data is lost. What .mp3 encoding does is essentially remove through what is known 'psychoacousticanalysis' the bits that the human ear is going to miss the least (sorry, but Im a part-time music producer, engineer and performer!) Its that lost data that is the 'polish' - that crispness, depth and the dynamics. You also get a pink-noise 'warble' with a mp3/aac too which I hate. For what it's worth, my EQ settings are Bass +3, Mid +1 and Treble +2 on the Pioneer. Never have to fiddle with these settings, no matter what style of music I have on. For some recordings, the bass response is simply massive (Unkle, Gorillaz, New Order, Black Grape are just a handful of CDs I have with extraordinary bass response on my system). On some recordings, its a little lame. It often does come down to the recording and whether they've applied any sub-bass processing in the recording process (I have Waves MaxxBass in my studio - this is what I mean!) What disappoints me just a little with both the Pioneer AND ML systems are the in-door woofers - I think they are poorly matched to the rest of the system. The squawkers and tweeters are nice - the sub I think is ok (its tight which is more improtant than loud I think), but the woofers let the whole system down. I also get a much better sound with my sunroof glass exposed. The sound is deadened a little bit when the cover slide is closed. The higher fequencies typically head upwards and will get absorbed by the cover slide. With glass the higher freqs deflect back to the passengers. One thing to consider is that the ML and Pioneer systems were developed for the IS way back in 2004-05, so some of its 'rivals' might have newer technology by a good 5 years. I reckon if you were to hop into a new GS in a few months with its 17 spkr? ML system you'd be blown away.

I haven't tried it! I have a 2006 model, and I know that the pre 2007 vehicles were suceptible to a slight issue with the steering rack - where whilst I didnt have a problem at the time, the dealer did a replacement back at about 30,000kms for memory (under warranty). I didn't notice anything prior, nor raise anything with them come service time. It wasn't a recall or anything for memory, but I would hop on the phone to your Lexus dealership and have a chat with Service about the issue. I know you might be out of warranty, but if indeed it was a 'quality' recall (where they will do improvements or preventative fits under warranty) (it wasn't a safety recall) - Lexus may still do it for you I understand. I might be off the track here - it could be a completely different issue, but I would at least give them a call to discuss. The steering rack kit may include (again for memory) the series of servos/sensors along the rack - you might have a faulty one, which causes your steering to stay locked in position. Im purely hypothesising here - but again, give Lexus a call.

Doesn't sound quite right - had my front rotors replaced for the first time at 75k. by my Lexus dealership for $580 for memory (which included a 'mini' brake service (flushed/replaced fluid, cleaned brake sets, readjusted park brake, checked pads etc.)) Im going to get my rear rotors replaced at 90k.

Turanzas are a really good all-round tyre. You should get at least 50k out of those. Bridgestones do have a tendancy to go a little hard on the sidewalls after a couple of years, so if you're doing lots of kms, no dramas, but if you're not doing a lot of kms you might notice it later on.

Back on the tyres.....that's appauling!! No matter how hard you drove the car (legally, ie no burnout/cricle work), you should at least get 25-30k out of Potenzas at WORST. I got 45k out of mine (now on Pirelli P7s just to try them out) - they are a soft tyre (the Potenzas), but Id be thinking anything in the 35-45k range would be satisifactory. If anything, perhaps give Bridgestone a call - maybe their customer service hotline or something and mention it to them. Grab any identification numbering you can find on the sidewall - maybe there was a bad batch where the compound was even softer than normal. Bad batches of tyres can happen (rarely) from time to time (according to my friend who's manages a national tyre franchise). Also perhaps you've had your tyre pressures consistently low as well. Remember to check your tyre pressures COLD.

In following up from my first post here, Id now have to retract some my comment and say that after a couple of weeks driving with them, the Pirellis are a little noisier than my Turanzas now. So keep that in mind if you're considering them. (90% of the time I have the stereo system up so I'm not hearing anything other than that, so it doesnt bother me).

Can't do anything about it! According to the service manager at my dealership it has been the #1 complaint by a fair way for all IS250 owners - and Lexus Australia have regularly nagged Japan for an answer. I believe there is a fix for US vehicles, but for Oz they can't (won't?) do anything about it.

I purchased on the weekend! I started with BS Potenzas then dropped back to a touring tyre (BS Turanza), (after back to back sidewall punctures!) which were good, but the touring tyre or "all-rounder" (a bit of this and a bit of that on wet/dry, performance, wear, noise etc.) tend to go a bit hard after 18 months or so, notably the Bridgestones according to a few in the tyre business that I know, so if you're not doing a heap of kms, after a few years your ride and performance may suffer a bit on the BS', even though you may still have plenty of tread left. So therefore I was going to 'upgrade' again to the BS Adrenaline Potenzas but I was a bit put off by the cost. In the end after strong advice from an acquaintance who manages a tyre franchise, I went with Pirelli P7 Cinturatos. Newish range that is a performance tyre more than 'touring/all-round'. Already noticing they are as quiet as the Turanzas, but handling is very good and I'm getting some nice steering feel I've never had before. Maybe its this apparent low tread resistance that Pirelli has been spruiking about this range - not sure, but my car is gliding through the corners beautifully. I think you can get them on line as cheap as $200 (but who's gonna fit and balance them?!) and the retail outlets I think charge between $230 and $280. I got a bit of a 'staff discount' and got them fitted/balanced/aligned for $200. Very early days of course - so you'll have to take what I have to say with a grain of salt I guess. Think the Dunlop Sport Maxx get a good wrap from some members on the forum here as well. Don't quote me on that. Yokohamas also come highly regarded for sport-oriented sedans as well. Stay away from the Continentals and Michelins - you'll get 30k if you're lucky!

Reckon we could have a 'case closed' now... Did those two tests you mentioned - both tests 'passed'. Went on a drive with some intentional hard braking - heat levels from both sets of brakes consistent. No hot smell. Rolling to a stop - all good there. No grab, no lurch, no veer. More freeway drives - all good there. Tyre check - all good there as well - tyre specialist said existing tyres were 'all round' and still in balance. Nevertheless the rear tyres were down a fair bit, and they said were getting quite hard on the sidewalls - got two new tyres (which I was going to do anyhow). Rang Lexus dealer on Friday evening to get their tyre recommendation and spoke to them about the 'overtightened park brake hypothesis' you provided, and they said yes that have seen that happen on a few previous vehicles, and suspected that when they did the impromptu inspection for me a fortnight ago. They didn't notice it at the time - since that inspection there has been no shudder whatsoeever, so perhaps it was a case of the brake loosening back after the first few weeks after the brake service.

Starting to put 'two and two' together a little here..... Now that you mention it, the park brake was noticeably tighter immediately after the service - since then it has slackened to how I remember it through the vehicles entire 80k life. What I have noticed the last few weeks is a very faint shudder under braking at all speeds (but most noticeably when braking at 30-70km/h) which I reckon is coming from the rear rotors (well it couldn't be from the brand spanking new front rotors - could it?!). I've just gone through my entire service history (receipts, job sheets), and rear rotors have not been machined/replaced at all on the vehicle. I don't see this as unusual but I was planning on getting them looked at when my rear pads need replacing which I've been advised should be at the next service (90k). Maybe, just maybe the scenario you describe has led to a bit of recent warping on my rear rotors? Also the shudder felt like it was more through the seat and floor (centre armrest shook and felt it more through the seat), so again perhaps pointing towards the rear? Steering wheel did not shake too much and steering performance was not compromised. I DID notice the car smelling a little hot during this period when I was experiencing the random shudder, but it was just after coming off a 'freeway run' and on a very cold evening, so whilst it caught my attention, to the point of once even opening up the bonnet to check coolant levels and hoses - I didn't suspect anything as insidious as a grabbing brake. Wasn't a 'brake' smell as such, just hot metal - like as if the engine was running a bit hot (but all is fine there). That smell has not returned since even in same driving and weather conditions. The location of the 'smell' was hard to pin point though - walking around the car I could not locate the smell from a particular location (bonnet, wheel etc.) So perhaps we are closing in on a possible cause, and perhaps it has self-rectified as you suggest. I'll be heading to a very good tyre centre (I know the manager and they are a pretty serious lot!) down the road from me on the weekend to give all my tyres the "once over" to rule out any 'out-of-round' as well. Thanks for your help again Simon. Much appreciated - you're a very handy resource! I'll try those braking road tests on the weekend (I'm off interstate for work at the moment).