Sapphire Cam

Just a heads up to all IS250 owners.,. I've just had my front engine seal done as it was starting to weep/leak. My vehicle has just hit 7 years of age (95,000). It wasn't a major leak (yet), but it was noticed by a Lexus technician when I had the car in for a 'look over' just prior to the end of my extended warranty period. This is a major piece of work - 2 days labour, and this did not come cheap - $1,860! It was covered under my extended warranty, but only just, as I decided to drop the car in just before it expired to ask the team whether they could see anything that could be 'claimable' They were doing another IS250 of similar age as well at the same time. I'm not sure if the same can be said for the 350 (different engine) So I'm just posting this as a heads up for owners with IS250's nudging 7 years of age to have a look and if under extended warranty, bring your vehicle into your dealer to get it looked at.

Insane! My IS250 is nudging 7 years now, and never had anything remotely like this. And I never heard/read/seen anything in all my years of keeping up to date on all things "IS250y". Bizarre. Apologies. Once again - my boring reply to most things like this would - just give your dealership a call. Even if its out of warranty or you aren't affliated with any dealership. It's not solely related to when driving in the wet is it? If so, just wondering if the drainage at the base of your windscreen could be clogged with dirt, leaves, bugs, grime etc.

WOOOAH!!! Had the same issue myself a year ago or so. I posted it on this forum. It came down to an overtightening of the park brake by the technician during the brake service/replacement. The symptoms were exactly that samchuang mentions here in his initial post. At speed. The hypothesis goes: - Park brake overtightened slightly. When disengaged, the shoes of the park brake are still ever so slightly touching the barrel/drum of the park brake. If you then hit high speed within 10-15mins of being parked (I found it at 85km/h+) you could get a shudder as the park brake has heated up and is starting to give a warped feel (ie. shudder). It eventually goes away, as the park brake loosens over time. OR go to your dealership and get it slackened slightly. For this shudder my Lexus dealership/technician checked: pads, calipers, rotors, transmission, driveshaft, suspension, did two road tests, checked ECU/readouts. I also had my tyres re-balanced and aligned at a third-party tyre centre. I also did some braking tests at various speeds. It eventually was determined it was an overtightened park brake.

I'm not being flippant here, but it's probably because a lot of new Mercs these days are fitted with fake leather, and real leather is not available through as OEM - not even as an option. I believe this is the case with all the C-class models now. Audi are going that way too I believe, as is BMW. So for those Merc buyers who want real leather are getting real leather installed before taking delivery.

I only topped up with about 1.5L-2L with the Valvoline, and if anything it was quieter, especially on start-up (on the fact that it just had more oil in it!). Didn't really notice any changes to running volume once the car had warmed up.

Had a similar issue of late (around the same kms as you! - 85-90k). I topped up with a standard Valvoline oil (its decent, but hardly top shelf, as I use it for my wife's Subaru) and then mentioned it to the sevice manager when taking it in for my 90,000 service. Apparently this can be solved by using an oil of different viscosity. I know little about oils, but they certainly put in quite a different oil (the W rating was quite a bit higher for memory). I'm now at 95,000kms and I haven't lost a drop! Perhaps Lexus are realising this is the case for the older IS, and now are realising the issue goes away with different oil? Who knows. Someone else more familar with engine oil might help out with some knowledge on thios.

Well done on the purchase by the way - would love a 350F too, but alas my focus is now on updating the wifes Forester to something nice (RX? Volvo XC? X3?) in the next couple of years, and to have space to carry all the kids cra...stuff when on road trips......but I digresss.... Rear room - do you have ventilated front seats? This might be the reason - the foot space in the back (or lack of!) is due to the space needed for the fans in the front seats). I know in the latest Prestige 250s, they've taken the ventilated seats out of them (only have heating). Maybe that's a good move (for more foot room), although I needed my venitlated seats yesterday here in Melb when it hit 39c!! They also slightly changed the shape of the back of the front seats too,in the last model update to make them less bulky. Sound quality - you may have to "burn" in your speakers for a period of time. I consider myself a bit of an audiophile, and I do find with headphones, hi-fi speakers and car systems, that speakers take a while to 'wear in', as the diaphragm and cones start to loosen up a bit. I have noticed on the 250, that I reckon they have used cheaper speakers in the latter models on the standard Pioneer 13-spr system, and they've taken away the positioning function too. But on the ML systems (as you have), I doubt there has been a change. So I'd give your speakers a month or two to 'wear in'. BTW, your ML system is a 14spr system - on paper at least that's what is marketed.

I have a 2006, and same thing - found it was "underreading" by about 10%. Queried it with my dealership and they said it was an issue with pre-2007 speedos. Their response - they replaced the dash display module with a brand new one under warranty at no cost....... it's been pretty much dead accurate ever since, about a 1-2% discrepancy tops over the past 5 years or so. I could confirm it was a new module, because there was a different symbol/light for a couple of warning symbols (traction control and oil leak I think) then on my initial display. So I'm a little confused with the talk on this post to date (dealership responses to an issue that I thought was remedied by the speedo module maufacturer several years back). If your dealership is being difficult, in terms of recalibration, I thought this service was available through independent providers. If you're in Melbourne, I know there is (was?) a place in Ringwood on Maroondah Hwy near Heatherdale Road that only did speedometer re-calibration, replacement and modification. I wonder if there is a TSIB for it somewhere??

Lexus have made a rod for their own backs a bit in the materials they use and by developing class-leading quietness in the cabin. By using the nicer tactile, less malable plastics, they aren't able to move around as much as the cheaper more flexible plastics you'll see in anything from a Commodore through to a 3-series. Also the panel fit is very tight. This can all lead to a few little creaks and squeaks about from time to time. Probably the single biggest complaint about the IS series are the little annoying creaks that are around. You know what - Ive had a few, and the dealership have fixed most of them, and others actually just disappear and never come back. I have found as the car ages and from other owners comments too, the creaks tend to go, as the car loosens up just that little bit over time and "settles in". I certainly wouldn't call them rattles, just creaks (growing pains!) Around the 25-50k mark is when there seems to be a 'peak' in complaints around creaks. Also this time of year with changable weather (certainly in the southern states), the cabin can raise a few creaks as the car is going from hot to cold and back constantly. Still doesnt make it right though - so make a list of the annoyances and drop it back to the dealer, so they can get done all in one hit. I would hazard a guess that the technicians would have a 'fix' for them all.

The 90k book service is massive - every filter in the car as well as what I mentioned above. Most noticeable change in performance over the life of the car to date - just need to get myself a couple of new tyres next month to complete the package as it were. (BTW, Im based in Melbourne!).

Sounds if you are looking at the AVG figure, and not the TANK AVG figure. The AVG figure is not zeroed unless the battery is disconnected, so that's why I can appear 'stuck' on a figure for a long time, where as after your tank receives more than a few litres of fuel, it resets.

Got my car serviced at my Lexus dealership. The car post-service has been driving as good as ever - but that's attributable to a number of service items (tightening of chassis, new spark plugs, injection cleaning etc.) , not just the oil.

Had a similar problem at 85,000 (Im at 91k now). Every 5k or so, I check the oil level anyhow, and occasionally have had to top up over the life of the car. Some consumption is to be expected (it is actually made reference to in the Owners Manual), but perhaps not as much as you've experienced. Made mention of it at my 90k service to the Service Manager, and they put a different oil in this time (I think it was 80W viscosity, as opposed to 30 or 40 - sorry I dont know much about oil!). But they said that was the issue - that Lexus are finding with the IS250 that by putting a different type of oil in (different viscosity) it is fixing the problem. Perhaps someone with more idea on engine oil could post a reply?!

I don't discount it at all. I remember driving from Deniliquin to Wagga on my roundabouts road trip from Melbourne to Canberra, and for that stretch I actually got 5.9L/100km. Amazing. (Once I hit the Hume and some hilly terrain on the way to Canberra it went up a bit). But Ive never got as close since - a few low 6s on some return trips Melbourne > Geelong (flat freeway). But provided you're averaging under 7.0L/100km you should comfortably do Melbourne > Sydney, given as its freeway for about 880 of the 890kms now!!

Wouldn't be also attributed to the larger wheel circumfrence and what they will do to your speed readings, and in turn odometer and therefore fuel consumption calculation? With bigger wheels, your wheels are turning just that little bit slower, therefore the odometer and trip computer think you're travelling less kms than you really are.

Just my five cents worth here - purely my thoughts, after driving one around for the past 5 years!), I actually think there are a few reasons. Firstly, the IS250 is a very heavy car - in fact I think the larger GS is slightly lighter that the IS. Secondly the automatic transmission in the IS250 is not ideally 'mated' to the 2.5L engine. The maxmium torque is achieved quite late - I agree, almost the antithesis of a diesel engine! However, what I have done is Ive had the ECU reset so the car is now re-learning my driving behaviour - which is actually using paddles to hold gears as well. After 2,000kms since the 'reset' the automatic is starting to hold gear about 300-500RPM more in 1st and the changes from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th are much smoother. I prefer to do the gears myself and hold about 500-750RPM more than what the automatic would do normally. It's a completely different car as a result, and enough toe for me. If only the automatic would be programmed this way! I do feel a bit 'flat footed' though off the mark regardless, unless I'm holding 1st to about 4000-4500RPM, but once the car is going whereas many cars in the IS250's class start to lose grunt in that 60-90km/h range and plateau off, the IS250 keeps going. I actually think the auto has been programmed 'tall' so as to achieve better fuel economy results on paper (especially for the European market and also the Californian market, which is a critical (and successful) one for Lexus - Lexus's are everywhere in California) - but having said that, I've actually have found a slight improvement in economy if I do the gears myself. Less gear changes, smarter gear changes and actually not making the car 'labour' by strolling in a too lower gear before having to kick down and rev its guts out, perhaps gives me the better economy overall. Average about 9.8 around town doing the gears myself as opposed to 10.2 on full auto (which I no longer do). On the fuel side of things, you'll actually find, despite the labelling on the fuel lid, the IS250 engine can safely run on RON91 and E10. Performance suffers of course and Lexus service reps will advise against it, and I'll always chuck in RON98, but it can live off '91'.

Its not my thing personally, but you could pick up a bargain. My first bit of advice would be to look through the manual to see if the book is stamped as required, and where it is stamped. If it has been stamped by either a Lexus dealer, or other reputable dealer, you're on a winner. The second step would be to look for major structural damage. Difficult for the non-mechanic (like me), but there are some ways that you can check. Look for uneven tyre wear, changes in paint (especially in door hinge areas), check for Lexus panel ID markers on the doors, look at the 'lines' of the car, look for little bubbles or pitting on the surface, especially the plastic parts, which would indicate an average re-spray job. As for whether the vehicle has been thrashed, look for the colour around the exhaust too - want to see a dark graphite grey residue, not a light ashy or jet black colour. And then of course, there's the general 'running sound' and 'start up' and of course the electricals (check windows, mirrors, lights, dash, stereo, locking, seat controls, A/C - check EVERYTHING), provided you're able to turn the car on at the auction house!!!! The sound on start-up would be important to me too - would not to want to hear a rough or rattley sound. Also with auction houses you typically don't get much time to inspect the car, but as a third check you might be able to ring through the rego and VIN through to a friend on the phone and they could check on-line for you if it 'checks out' (Whether the car is written off and/or still subject to finance). I'm sure some of the community here could also pass on more "what to look fors". And of course, lastly do you research on-line and determine what a typical price range is based on year & kms, and set your limit considerably below that.

I love Merc - been surrounded by them in one way shape or form over the years (family, friends with C and E class) - but each one had a common problem - yes, they were all electrical (incl computer). Anyway that's probably all been sorted out now across the range, but just a historical note from me. Its actually those issues seen first and second hand that made me wary of the C-class when I looked it prior to getting my IS. Mind you, and I have to declare this, that that was 6 years ago!

Thanks for the 'lead'. Didn't think the Kluger came with an upper-spec deriviative as I last looked at then several years back, but the Grande looked packed with gear, and is very nicely finished, and has the 7 seat option - something that the RX still doesnt offer. You might've saved me $30k!!! Anyway, will stick with the IS for the forseeable future, and my wifes Forester - which is bluudy boring and a thirsty car, but its bulletproof and my wife likes it, so why upset the apple cart :)

Thought I'd have to part with the IS when our first child was born. The baby capsule was a PITA for 6 months, making it very difficult to use the front passengers seat. My wife is tall, but she just managed. Eventually we upgraded our second car to a Forester which took the ease off for long trips. Have had a child seat in the back for our son (who's now 2) and its fine - plenty of space for him and the front passenger. Boot is still quite a good size for this size of vehicle. Someone above mentioned the GS250 - not a bad idea. Could look for a demo by the end of the year and save 7-10k potentially. You could hang onto the IS until the 3rd gen due this time next year. Once Im transiting our second child (who's only 7 months) around the place in a couple of years time, I think my IS will go. I do like the RX, which would be an option for us. Looking at the Volvo XC70 as well. Don't rush into anything - see how you go.

Yep - told by service manager last week (as I had mine in for its '90'), when talking about brakes (which I didn't need anything done) that the "rule of thumb" for the front brakes on the IS250 is "40 to45k". Cost wise (through your dealership), its actually not much more to get the rotors and pads done as opposed to just the pads. Same with machining - I was told its not really worth doing, as machining really cuts into them (as the OEM rotors are quite 'soft') and cost wise, better off putting new ones on rather than machining. For the rear on the other hand, you should get close to 150k on the rear rotors allegedly.

Yep - that is the OLD price range, so as I said if what my dealership told me, get in quick if you're close to 90k because those numbers on that price range is about to get a whole lot bigger!.

@BigDenis - it was just some drivers seat tightening, as well as adjustment to the auto transmission and a fuel injection system service - so these items plus the 'book service', and my 6 1/2 year old car now drives like the 6 month old loan car I had for the day. As I mentioned, the benefits from the chassis and suspension tightening (as prescribed in the scheduled 90k service) are really noticeable. Car feels much tighter.

Hi gang, I had my vehicle in for its 90,000 service yesterday. Car has come out the back door of the dealership as good as new. I'm very happy. A notable change in performance and handling (won't bore you with details but I got them to do a few other things as well), but the chassis and suspension tightening is really noticeable. What bowled me over is what the Service Manager told me their new retail price is for their 90,000km service. I paid the old price, but let's just say it was a $700 difference!!! So a heads-up to you with vehicles close to the 90,000km service to either shop around, get in early or put your foot down and demand the 'old' price. I'm not sure whether this price change was a dealer specific decision, or a directive from Lexus Australia.

Yep - have asked a couple of time about this. Lexus dealerships in this country can not / will not source OEM low-dust pads. Lexus Australia have not endorsed them as a supplied part or something to that effect.