E910

Version 21 is the latest update that I'm aware of  PN# 86271-76042  .There maybe an updated part number in the Lexus EPC but you would need to check with your local Lexus dealer.

Yes EBC RedStuff pads are ceramic http://ebcbrakes.co.nz/ProductOverview/RedStuffPads/tabid/1057/Default.aspx

Good upgrade if you want to stop in a hurry. I'd recommend machining the rotors when installing new pads

Strange part numbers they use, JDM numbers are RH = 85214-53080 & LH = 85214-53090

This thread is still going?!! Anyone tried Mobil1 0W-40, Motul X-cess 5W-40 or Motul X-clean 5W-40 in their IS#50 yet?

Motul have a new oil coming out in the Australasian market soon called Sport Ester 5W-40. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/motul/MotulSport5W-40GB.pdf

Ester is an amazing product, rather than me ramble on about it you can just read this link >> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/

I run Motul 300V in my 3SGE which is a full Ester oil, the car has never run so good. Only down side is it's a race oil so needs to be changed every 6K km. The PAO & Ester Motul Sport should be able to handle a few more km than 300V, say 10-15K. This will be a great oil for the Australian climate to use in the IS#50. I highly suggest you try some once it becomes available. https://www.motul.com/au/en/resellers

Wind Chaser if your car is using Edge 5W30 then a cheap 10W40 isn't going to fare any better, see above my recommendations above or if you're really on a budget then Shell Helix 5W40 is then next best & very reasonably priced. Anything else is a waste of time IMO

I had RE001 on the rear of my Altezza. They're not a bad tyre, reasonable grip but still allow you to have a bit of fun with the TRC off. I replaced them with F1 Asymmetric 2 & they have phenomenal grip in both the wet & dry. Even in the wet it struggles to break traction. I highly recommend them

On badly carboned up engiens you may need to use a second bottle of genuine Toyota D4 injector cleaner (in another full tank). No need to change the oil after using the injector cleaner only after using upper cylinder & throttle body cleaner. I would avoid using throttle body cleaner on a running engine, best to remove the throttle body to clean it. Heard a few horry stories from people using it especially on older/high mileage cars.

You guys really should be running a mid saps oil, ACEA C3 specd with your direct injection motors. It's specifily designed to help reduce carbon build up.

Hi all, I have some leaking rear shocks on my IS250 :(

Quote to replace $610 each + labour.

Damn that's a lot. I can do genuine shocks for NZ$200 each + freight

• The IS 250 engine suffers from carbon buildup.

To help reduce this carbon build up in direct injection motors I recommend you use a low ash oil, i.e one with an C3 specificastion. Thats basically what the BMW & VW specifications I mentioned earlier are based on.

Toyota/Lexus also do an injector cleaner specifically designed for their direct injection engines. Part number is 08813-00830. I'd recommend using a bottle at least once a year

What oil are they currently using in it? Brand, specs etc? These engine are very particular about oil, especially once they've got a few KM under their belt. I would not use 10W40.

A thick 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic would be my first choice. Look for 30 weight that meets VW 502/505 or VW 504/507 failing that BMW LL-01 specifications. If you must use a 40 weight then I look at 5W40 or 0W40 that meets BMW LL-01 spec. Mobil1 & Shell Helux Ultra should be the easiest to find. Ideally you should track down some Motul 8100 X-clean. I think Autobarn sell it. Don't waste you money on semi synthetic or inferior brands like Penrite, Nulon, Valvoline, Castrol etc

+1 EBC Redstuff

Mobil1 is good but Motul is better again (speaking from personal experience).

All the Motul products you mentioned are designed to meet different specifications whether they be manufactures specs, ACEA or ILSAC. Look at the performance standard for each range & you'll see they're all different. C3, C1 A5/B5 etc. They're to to with ash content, fuel economy, HTHS etc. Have a read to see what they all mean http://www.infineum.com/Documents/ACEA/ACEA%202012%20oil%20sequences.pdf & http://www.infineum.com/Pages/ACEAandAPITables.aspx

I can vouch for the X-clean 5W-30 being a very good oil, we use it in a lot of Toyota/Lexus direct injection motors here. That would probably be my choice although the Eco-nergy looks interesting but probably a bit on the thin side

I run 300V 5W30 in my own car but that's another story...

Looks good! Nice choice of tyre too.

I don't rate Bridgestone anymore, there's far better tyres on the market & for less money. I considered PS3 for the rear of mine but went with F1 Asy2 instead. Got F1 Asy1 on the front so wanted matching. Paid about the same as RE002 go for as well.

Have you got factory fog lamps? You could just replace the halogen HB4 bulbs with LED ones or replace them with something like this http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/9-33v-led-daytime-running-lamp-kit-with-adjustable-bracket14753/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout

You could put them on a separate switch/circuit if you didn't want your tail lamps & dash bulbs illuminated.

I've also seen people insert LEDs into the factory spot lamp blanks, I can't find any pictures though. Saw it on a forum a while ago

Specialist tools? A spanner to undo the drain plug? They only change about 3.5-4L but that is enough to refresh the additive pack in the oil & protect your transmission for another 90K

Toyota make a specific injector cleaner for their direct injection engines. Part number is 08813-00830. Run a bottle through every service if you're concerned (I use it in my Altezza 3SGE & it works very well). Also running the engine on 98 octane helps reduce carbon build up

You can't ? I must tell my service guys to stop changing it then :P They take Toyota WS fluid. We change it every 90K. In Japan they call it lifetime fluid but thats only because most sell there cars before they get to 90K. WS is similar in spec to Dexron VI & Mercon LV. It's basically a low viscosity ATF for improved fuel economy over older specs i.e T-IV.

Edge 5W-30 is okay but I don't think it's a good choice for the IS350. Edge 0W-40 A3/B4 would be better suited IMO

I think if you guys want a decent oil for the 4GR/2GRFSE then look for something with BMW LL-01 approval

I've used Mobil 10w40 and the problem did persist.

I think you've missed the point, that is still only a semi-syn (mainly mineral oil), I said try a decent 100% synthetic 0w40/5w40 or 10w30 like Mobil1, Motul or Redline etc

At the end of the day all you need to do is take the car into your Lexus dealer & get them to document the oil usage. If it's excessive then they can go back to Lexus AU to see if they'll cover it under goodwill. From what we've found here in NZ the problem is with the oil not the engine.

Don't use Penright, it's average at best. Try something like Mobil1 0w40 (or if you want something a bit cheaper Shell Helix Ultra 5w40) next service & see if the problem persist. These engine require decent oil, something with a low NOACK

Those temp vs viscosity graphs should be taken with a grain of salt, they're very vague. I guess they try & make it as simple as possible but they seem to cause more confusion. You really need to look at the data sheet of the oil you're using. A 5W-30 with a HighTemp/HighShear of 2.9 isn't going to deal with heat as well as one with a HT/HS of 3.5.

Have a read of http://www.bobistheoilguy.com for more on this

I think so, it is factory recommended viscosity, however i've seen people using 0-40W just so their engine oil can last longer, none the less always asked your dealer if ur not sure, good luck!

Who told you this???

The broader the viscosity in oil the less stable it is and the shorter the lifespan. 0w40 will give you more protection as it is suited to run at colder and hotter temperatures than 5w30 BUT it will not last as long as the 30 weight oil.

Neither of you are correct. An oils longevity has to do with the additives, base stock & specs it meets. You want to look at an oils HT/HS, Noack & TBN to gauge how long it should last. You'll find this info in the PDS (product data sheet) on the manufactures web site. Have a read of this to see what the ACEA specs mean http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf

Most 0w40 are made from PAO base stock where as your common 5w30 ( Castrol, Valvoline, Shell etc) are made from Group 3 so in theory the 0w40 will last longer. Either will do the 15K service intervals of an IS250.

+1 for RedStuff

Yes that is part number used in Australia. The JDM part number is 04152-31080

If you're doing your own servicing pop down to your local autobarn & pick yourself up some Motul.

I'm yet to see one in the flesh yet, get some pics up.

GGPIS300 why would anyone want a 300h? 350 FTW! Buy a BMW 320d if you want fuel economy

Which one did you get? Eco-clean or Eco-nergy? Hopefully the nergy. That's a good price for Motul. M1 is $87 for 5L at supercheap. You get what you pay for with oil, don't be fooled by cheap "synthetics" like castrol which are made from group 3 (hydrocracked) base stocks rather than group 4 (PAO) like Motul & Mobil1