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Everything posted by E910
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This thread is still going?!! Anyone tried Mobil1 0W-40, Motul X-cess 5W-40 or Motul X-clean 5W-40 in their IS#50 yet? Motul have a new oil coming out in the Australasian market soon called Sport Ester 5W-40. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/motul/MotulSport5W-40GB.pdf Ester is an amazing product, rather than me ramble on about it you can just read this link >> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/ I run Motul 300V in my 3SGE which is a full Ester oil, the car has never run so good. Only down side is it's a race oil so needs to be changed every 6K km. The PAO & Ester Motul Sport should be able to handle a few more km than 300V, say 10-15K. This will be a great oil for the Australian climate to use in the IS#50. I highly suggest you try some once it becomes available. https://www.motul.com/au/en/resellers Wind Chaser if your car is using Edge 5W30 then a cheap 10W40 isn't going to fare any better, see above my recommendations above or if you're really on a budget then Shell Helix 5W40 is then next best & very reasonably priced. Anything else is a waste of time IMO
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I had RE001 on the rear of my Altezza. They're not a bad tyre, reasonable grip but still allow you to have a bit of fun with the TRC off. I replaced them with F1 Asymmetric 2 & they have phenomenal grip in both the wet & dry. Even in the wet it struggles to break traction. I highly recommend them
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On badly carboned up engiens you may need to use a second bottle of genuine Toyota D4 injector cleaner (in another full tank). No need to change the oil after using the injector cleaner only after using upper cylinder & throttle body cleaner. I would avoid using throttle body cleaner on a running engine, best to remove the throttle body to clean it. Heard a few horry stories from people using it especially on older/high mileage cars. You guys really should be running a mid saps oil, ACEA C3 specd with your direct injection motors. It's specifily designed to help reduce carbon build up.
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To help reduce this carbon build up in direct injection motors I recommend you use a low ash oil, i.e one with an C3 specificastion. Thats basically what the BMW & VW specifications I mentioned earlier are based on. Toyota/Lexus also do an injector cleaner specifically designed for their direct injection engines. Part number is 08813-00830. I'd recommend using a bottle at least once a year
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What oil are they currently using in it? Brand, specs etc? These engine are very particular about oil, especially once they've got a few KM under their belt. I would not use 10W40. A thick 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic would be my first choice. Look for 30 weight that meets VW 502/505 or VW 504/507 failing that BMW LL-01 specifications. If you must use a 40 weight then I look at 5W40 or 0W40 that meets BMW LL-01 spec. Mobil1 & Shell Helux Ultra should be the easiest to find. Ideally you should track down some Motul 8100 X-clean. I think Autobarn sell it. Don't waste you money on semi synthetic or inferior brands like Penrite, Nulon, Valvoline, Castrol etc
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Mobil1 is good but Motul is better again (speaking from personal experience). All the Motul products you mentioned are designed to meet different specifications whether they be manufactures specs, ACEA or ILSAC. Look at the performance standard for each range & you'll see they're all different. C3, C1 A5/B5 etc. They're to to with ash content, fuel economy, HTHS etc. Have a read to see what they all mean http://www.infineum.com/Documents/ACEA/ACEA%202012%20oil%20sequences.pdf & http://www.infineum.com/Pages/ACEAandAPITables.aspx I can vouch for the X-clean 5W-30 being a very good oil, we use it in a lot of Toyota/Lexus direct injection motors here. That would probably be my choice although the Eco-nergy looks interesting but probably a bit on the thin side I run 300V 5W30 in my own car but that's another story...
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Michelin Pilot Super Sport Tyres Installed! (245/35R19 275/30R19)
E910 replied to - Raven -'s topic in Lexus IS-F Club
Looks good! Nice choice of tyre too. I don't rate Bridgestone anymore, there's far better tyres on the market & for less money. I considered PS3 for the rear of mine but went with F1 Asy2 instead. Got F1 Asy1 on the front so wanted matching. Paid about the same as RE002 go for as well. -
Hey Guys Your Advice/ Questions
E910 replied to Lefty's topic in Lexus IS200 / Lexus IS300 / Toyota Altezza Club
Have you got factory fog lamps? You could just replace the halogen HB4 bulbs with LED ones or replace them with something like this http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/9-33v-led-daytime-running-lamp-kit-with-adjustable-bracket14753/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout You could put them on a separate switch/circuit if you didn't want your tail lamps & dash bulbs illuminated. I've also seen people insert LEDs into the factory spot lamp blanks, I can't find any pictures though. Saw it on a forum a while ago -
You can't ? I must tell my service guys to stop changing it then :P They take Toyota WS fluid. We change it every 90K. In Japan they call it lifetime fluid but thats only because most sell there cars before they get to 90K. WS is similar in spec to Dexron VI & Mercon LV. It's basically a low viscosity ATF for improved fuel economy over older specs i.e T-IV.
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I think you've missed the point, that is still only a semi-syn (mainly mineral oil), I said try a decent 100% synthetic 0w40/5w40 or 10w30 like Mobil1, Motul or Redline etc At the end of the day all you need to do is take the car into your Lexus dealer & get them to document the oil usage. If it's excessive then they can go back to Lexus AU to see if they'll cover it under goodwill. From what we've found here in NZ the problem is with the oil not the engine.
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Those temp vs viscosity graphs should be taken with a grain of salt, they're very vague. I guess they try & make it as simple as possible but they seem to cause more confusion. You really need to look at the data sheet of the oil you're using. A 5W-30 with a HighTemp/HighShear of 2.9 isn't going to deal with heat as well as one with a HT/HS of 3.5. Have a read of http://www.bobistheoilguy.com for more on this
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Who told you this???The broader the viscosity in oil the less stable it is and the shorter the lifespan. 0w40 will give you more protection as it is suited to run at colder and hotter temperatures than 5w30 BUT it will not last as long as the 30 weight oil. Neither of you are correct. An oils longevity has to do with the additives, base stock & specs it meets. You want to look at an oils HT/HS, Noack & TBN to gauge how long it should last. You'll find this info in the PDS (product data sheet) on the manufactures web site. Have a read of this to see what the ACEA specs mean http://www.acea.be/images/uploads/files/2012_ACEA_Oil_Sequences.pdf Most 0w40 are made from PAO base stock where as your common 5w30 ( Castrol, Valvoline, Shell etc) are made from Group 3 so in theory the 0w40 will last longer. Either will do the 15K service intervals of an IS250.