E910

I'd go with Redstuff. I've got Greenstuff in my Altezza & they're more dusty than Redstuff. Got them for free so can't complain

If you put something like EBC Red Stuff in & drive exactly the same way you do with OE pads then they should last just as long. The problem arises when people put better pads in & change their driving style. They start braking later & harder etc but this puts more stress on the pads & rotors and they wear out quicker, hence where all the stories come from sliq.

To the OP, I can do you genuine front pads for approx A$85 + freight. Rotors are best sourced locally due to the weight vs. freight cost. Depending on the mileage you've done you might get away with skimming/machining the rotors & new pads. No point throwing away good rotors if they're not under size.

Mobil1 is far superior to Castrol Edge sliq. You've been sucked in by the marketing if you think otherwise.

The reason you're fuel economy has improved is more down tho the fact a 90K service replaces trans & diff oil as well as spark plugs. 10w40 will never improve fuel economy over a 5w30

If you want to learn more about oil then there's only one place on the net worth looking http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

If you want the best >> https://www.facebook.com/motulaustraliacars

You said high mileage? 100K isn't high, 200K+ is what I'd class as high mileage these days. I'd stick with 5w30, I definitely wouldn't use 10w40, not good for VVTi or fuel economy. If you must run a 40 weight then 0w-40 or 5w-40 synthetic only but you've got another 100K before you even need to think about going that thick. Back to your 5w30, Motul 8100 or Mobil1 are very good options.

I see plenty of Toyotas that have oil usage issues. It all come down to what oil you're using. Google NOACK >> http://www.1st-in-synthetics.com/what_is_the_noack_volatility_test.htm

If you're experiencing evaporation loss then you need to look for an oil with low NOACK & a high base number. 10w30 were generally good for this but I'm finding mineral 10w30 struggles in late model VVTi engines. I'd try an oil like Motul 8100 X-clean 5w30 & see if that sorts the problem, if not then Motul 8100 X-cess 5w40 will

i run elf turbolite

I can not find this oil on the Elf/Total site. Motul make a "turbolite" but it's 10w40?

The Elf Excellium Full-Tech 0W-30 looks quiet good on paper. PAO base stocks (100% Synthetic) rather than Group3 (fully synthetic) too. Be good for 15K

LOL Lexus oil. It'll be cheap bulk 10w30 in what ever brand that particular dealership uses. It wont be synthetic Mobil for $50 I can tell you that much. $8.00 per L isn't going to get you anything flash.

That platronics report isn't worth the paper its printed on either, they're absolute rubbish.

You'll be looking at a cambelt change at 150K along with fuel filter, transmission, brake & diff oil. As you can see from the chart below the factory service schedule is 15K, you'd want to be using a decent synthetic 5w30 & genuine filter for this though. If you're going to use semi-syn then drop it back to 10K.

Front lower ball joints are pretty common on these although they may have been changed already, most don't seem to make it past 100K.

My diff oil was well overdue to be changed. Last time it did it was about 4 years/45K km ago. I used Castrol SAF-XA 80w140 as that's what we used at work in all the RWD Fords. I'd been contemplating what to use this time round. Had been looking at Redline but could decided on 80w140 again or 75w140. Since moving to Toyota & becoming a Motul dealer the question was answered for me. I put in some TRD/Motul Gear Competition 75w140. The factory Torsen LSD loves this stuff, its so smooth again. The Castrol was well past its use by.

Didn't replace the washers last time which made it a bit harder to get the plugs out hence the penetr8. Mind you if I'd had the right bit to fit on my 1/2" power bar it would have been a lot easier.

Wow that's terrible mileage from a 1GFE. I'm averaging 9.5L per 100km from my 3SGE running on 98. Been using an app on my ph to keep track of it.

The sound you describ sounds like air trapped in your cooling system. This is usally caused by a slow leak somewhere in the system, water pump, hose, cap etc. You need to "burp" your system to get the air out in the short term, in the long term you need to find & fix the leak.

Remove the radiator cap (when cold) & start the engine. Get an empty 2L coke bottle, 3/4 fill it with water. Place it upside down in the filler neck any any air in the system will bubble up into the bottle

Mobil 98, BP Ultimate, Shell V-Power or Caltex Vortex 98. I'd stay away from the ethanol blends.

sorry for bringing up this old thread again but i was wondering if anyone knew of a way to improve the fuel consumption because my is200 is killing me at the moment

What grade oil are you guys running? If its a thick old 10w-40 then by switching to 5w-30 you can improve economy by a few %. Upgrading your platinum plugs to Iridium will also help.

That E10 98 isn't as good as normal 98 for milage.

If yours is a transponder key then the cheap eBay blanks may not work. I'd cheap with your Lexus dealer or email me for a price

No recal that I'm aware of but plenty replaced under warranty. Aurion & Kluger have the same issue.

If it was my car I'd be runng better oil than the cheap 10w30 the dealers use. Splash out on some Motul, Redline, Mobil1 etc etc once you've had them replaced under warranty.

This is going to be a build to watch. Looking very impresive already

Blue with yellow strip is 12v constant

Grey is accessory power

Brown is earth

KU31 rated last in EVO's 2010 test. PS2 was 4th due to its poor aquaplaning results but fastest in the dry.

http://www.tyrerevie...D-Tyre-Test.htm

From my personal experience with other Kumho tyres, they're ok in the dry & shocking in the wet. I've got F1 A2 on my Altezza & they're amazing.

Michelin Pilot Sport PS2

Yokohama Advan Neova AD08

I'd also look at Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetric2 (amazing tyre), Hankook Ventus S1 Evo or Toyo Proxes T1 Sport. Any of these will be far superior to the Kumho you have one the front. The Bridgestone Potenza RE002 is also worth a look.

You'll probably need more like 3-4L. A 4L pack of WS is NZ$212 over here (AU$165) Although if the price Lexus AU charge for spark plugs is anything to go buy then they probably charge a lot more for WS fluid.

What oil are you running?? It can't be designed for long drain intervals. I've run a few different synthetic 0/5w-30 (Mobil, Castrol, Takumi etc) in my 3SGE & even when I went out to 12K once I didn't notice any difference with the new oil. It was still pretty clean when it came out too.

Admittedly some engines are harder on oil than others & the 2GRFE has the odd problem with VVTi pulleys which may be due to this. Spend another $20 & get some Mobil1 or Shell Helix Ultra you can leave in for 10-15K. Oil & tyres are two things I wont skimp on.

change your oil engine every 5000kms yourself. save you huge $$$.

genuine lexus oil filter is also very cheap.

If you're using decent oil then you're just wasting your money dropping it every 5K. The average synthetic like Castrol Edge 5w-30 will be good for at least 10K-15K. If you're that concerned get a UOA (used oil analysis) done to see how well it's holding up.

A 30K service is only oil, filter & brake fluid change. Over here in NZ that be about $300-$350 max at Lexus service agent. Whats the labour rate over there??

As long as your local mechaninc is using genuine parts & oil that meets factory specs or better (i.e. synthetic 5w-30) then there should be no reason it would effect your warranty.

Having your car serviced at the agents does have it's advantages though. Campaign, tsb & warranty issues will be sorted. PCM updates done. Someone working on your car that is factory trained & very familair with the vehicle etc etc.

I doubt this sort of wear is due to the age. I'm guessing thats just a nice way of the dealer saying you've pucked your suspension on a pot hole or the likes. Lower ball joints are usually the first thing to wear out

Are you sure? Coils going are pretty common on these things.

Try some genuine Toyota injector cleaner (08813-00830) with a tank of 98 if you still think it's an injector issue.