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MR2QIK

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Posts posted by MR2QIK

  1. Yep, I've read that. There's quite a few variables there though, the ECU adaptation, large delay between runs, different dynos & conditions obviously. I also think he's comparing against a stock intake with the charcoal removed, so it's not actually stock with simple panel change. I think the difference between modded stock & Injen (which I'd guess is about the same as a K&N) are about the same & a gain.

    The MotoIQ test was actually more controlled in comparison. Same car, dyno & day. Back to back, results averaged out to the conservative side & backed up at a later date. Textbook to be honest.

    My background is playing with forced induction (I also own a single turbo built S8 FD RX7 & 350rwkw+ MR2 turbo on pump fuel). The IS-F motor is simply a high compression, newish tech 5.0L naturally aspirated V8. I'd bet money if it can be done, it'd sit around about a 10% power increase, which is pretty much inline with other relatively highish strung all-motors. About equal to headers. Not bad, but not that impressive $ per kw. Compared to the upgrades for the new breed of turbocharged supersedans (new C63, F80), their gains will be far more substantial. What I would be interested in though, would be a proper ECU solution, true head porting, camshaft & flex sensor fuel upgrades (if it'll ever be possible & tested). That won't be cheap, but it would be rather nice.

  2. I noticed no loss in power anywhere in the rev range. Looking at the dyno results, ignore the numbers as they're on a US Dynojet, but it's clear there was a power increase from bottom to top.

    1163238553_Z7YWX-L.jpg

    Personally, I like that I'll have to end with bolt ons. The ISF tends to react well to them. Even if tuning were an option, I'd rather keep it well within its limits for longevity. I've been tinkering with different cars/motors for years, & doubt a tune would yield a huge amount. Not enough to justify the cost once a true solution is found & still be behind the new breed of super sedans.

  3. There's a post in the regular 2IS section. Someone added a second sub (not in the boot) to their 350 & it improved. I'm considering following suit down the line. I had an 08 250 & the ML audio was MUCH better than my ISF. Night & day. Funnily enough, I found my Dad's 2013 350's ML system is better than my ISF's but not as good as my 08 250 was.

  4. Great info there.. From what i can gather though the stock intake does a pretty stellar job power wise, and its important to maintain the dual intake system for low down torque. A drop in filter and intake pipe (HKS etc) seems to be the best option.

    I don't quite agree with that. MotoIQ did a test on their own ISF with a K&N intake & recorded one of their largest power increases for an aftermarket intake modification.

    http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1827/Project-Lexus-IS-F-Part-1-We-Test-the-KN-Typhoon-High-Flow-Air-Intake.aspx

    They also backed up the result months down the line & no power loss was found either.

    I have an Injen intake & love it. Not a huge increase, but I could feel it (appreciate the sound too). Suspect the metal pipes would heat up faster than the silicon ones, which would probably have an affected during a prolonged track session where heat becomes more of an issue.

  5. It's not a difficult job at all. Exhaust shops that spring to mind would be Castle Hill Exhaust, Performance Exhaust Centre in Northmead & Windsor Exhaust. More an matter of convenience for you.

    You won't be able to make it a true dual system at the exit retaining the OEM rear mufflers. If you want to de-restrict, the restrictive bits would be the cats & Y pipe (the crushed section). If you plan on headers without primary cats, replace the secondaries with high-flow units. If not planning headers, delete the secondary cats altogether. Wouldn't ditch all the cats given the EPA risk.

    I was hesitant to butcher the factory exhaust, so bought aftermarket instead.

  6. You can probably hit up GreenGlobal/Danny/ilv1004s to do the install on whichever suspension you source. You can have Road & Race in Rydalmere do the alignment afterwards.

    Pretty much spot on as far as your options are concerned. I'm actually about change my low mileage 2011 suspension for BC coilovers. Not sure if I'll put them up for sale afterwards or leave them as a backup. I also have new Swift lowering springs for the OEM struts which I'm yet to decide what I'll do with.

  7. Hi everyone,

    Ended up going Toms kit all round to match my sides. Bought this before I even picked up my ISF.....lol Best pass it on before it gets lost or broken around the house. Tempted to hoard it but that's a bad habit.

    It's a Jap made Aeroworkz 3pc front lip with carbon fibre middle section. Sides are fibreglass & flat black (I intended to paint match the sides to car).

    Great looking lip, flows nicely with the OEM front. Never been fitted, so in perfect/new condition.

    Located in Western Sydney

    Price $300 ono (shipping at buyers expense)

    Contact - Jason 0407018031

    Very hard to find pics of this, so I'll post all you're likely to find online :)

    20150516_085221.jpg

    IMG_20141125_153935.jpg

    IMG_20141116_144234%201.jpg

    ad_1431600863579.jpg

  8. As a base:

    19x8.5 Front (+35 safe, +22 aggressive)

    19x9.5 Rear (+35 safe, +22 aggressive)

    Safe means fatter tyre options, aggressive is a bit of acceptable stretch. I ran that aggressive spec on my 250 with Tein S Tech (225/35 F 255/35 R). No guard roll, only rubbed on big hwy bumps & full passenger load. Can prolly fix that with stiffer dampening.

    This isn't based on large drops though, which changes the game with camber/stretch etc. You can tinker with the above when considering thinner or wider rims.

    DSC_0776.jpg

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