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Hey guys I'm brand spanking new to these belt driven cars and i have bought my partner a 1uz-fe. Unfortunately I'm her half arsed mechanic wannabe. So I'm here for help!! I bought it about 1 week ago with over heating issues. I started it turned on the heaters A/C and ran it. It spat water straight out of the overflow after about 5-10 minutes idle. The heaters ran cold so i could only assume it had something to do with a water pump. I have now replaced the water pump and done the timing correct and put her back together. When i took it apart it didn't have a thermostat inside the housing. I'm yet to receive one. Now that it is back together it's now spitting coolant out of the thermo housing oh so slightly. "Gasket comes with thermo that I'm waiting for" but no longer out of the overflow. Heaters are still running cold. What do you reckon could be the problem?

1. Bad gasket? No signs of steam on the sides of the engine. No mixture in oil/water.

2. Bad water pump? Brand new

3. Thermostat? Waiting for 1 but flow is constant for the time being.

4. Clogged lining from old peoples gasket glue and so on?

5. Buggered radiator?

Any suggestions or even possibly the solution would be great! Thanks people!!!

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water heater switch is not working? it is at the firewall behind the LHS bank.  also bleed the system correctly to remove any air bubbles.

 

go here for info  http://soarercentral.com/cgi-bin/sc-forum/discus.cgi      and also here     https://www.facebook.com/groups/412287448810494/

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Hey tom thanks. I'll check out those links thanks. My heater controller is a dial. I can adjust the temp up by turning clock wise as i turn it up it goes from ice cold to normal air all the way from say 19° to 29°hot. So i think the controller works. Maybe it's the bleed part. Do soarers have to be fully bled to work.

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bleeding is very important. i used to cut a plastic drink bottle in half.  At the thermostat there is a 19mm? bolt, remove the bolt and screw the drink bottle neck into the housing. With the heater full on, run the engine and continually top up with water thru the drink bottle until engine is at normal temp and no further topping up is required. Remover bottle and refit the 19mm? bolt.

 

there is also good info here

http://planetsoarer.com/indexfull.html

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Just an update tom. I did the bleed. Went to work fine which is a 10 minute drive and as i drove back it started to overheat again just as a got home and then reached max temp as i pulled up the drive way and shot water out of the overflow. Even at full bleed heaters ran cold still. I thought maybe the radiator could be blocked but when i poor water through the top of the rad it flows out the bottom fine. But maybe it could have some blocked vents/jets what ever they are called. Thermo seems to be working as far as i can think. Hose from bottom of rad to thermo is hot/warm and the hose from the top of rad to the what ever it is going into the engine is boiling hot. Along with the top of the radiator. Maybe it could be *BLEEP*ty coolant cap not letting air out and releasing coolant before it can fully pressurize but the coolant cap looks in good nick and the spring is tough so would take more then enough pressure to push it up. Idk I'm seriously out of ideas haha. There is no leaks absolutely anywhere. It just gets so hot it shoots out of overflow, thats the only leak. Heat fuse is fine. 

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are the radiator fans operating?  my only other thought is install a new thermostat . regarding the heater, check if the switch on the firewall is actually operating. when you turn the heater on

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Buy a infrared heat thermometer off ebay and check radiator temps, it sounds like a semi blocked radiator. Does the car run smoothly ?? I hope its not the head gaskets.

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Hey tom. Yeah I'll have to try a new genuine thermo. Because the new 1 i got with the car is totally different shape. Rad fan is operating. I installed a new hydraulic pump. I'll look into how to get to the heater switch. Thanks again.

Hey 2bling  runs and idles smooth. Only issue is tappets tapping. I'll fill it with more oil and run some engine treatment threw it. It has about 5L of oil in it atm. I hope it isn't because this engine looks a mess and easier to fix outside of the car. But it shows no signs of escaping into any other chambers.

Coolant>oil=milky - oil is perfectly clean              Coolant>air=smoke? - no smoke at all                  Coolant>outside= possible coolant burn smell with signs of smoke from evap. But there is no signs of that and at the rate and speed its over heating it wouldn't be an unnoticeable drip. I will definitely buy 1 of these tools, thanks.

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if fans are operating and the car is overheating (heater problem is different), either the thermostat or radiator is faulty. The infra red thermometer should identify areas of the radiator that are "not working".

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So i broke down. Topped it up with coolant once it cooled down. I decided to drive with the cap half turned so it releases steam. So i drove home with steam shooting out of the hood but it didn't over heat. Got home and turned the cap to full lock and it over heated almost instantly lol. 

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3 hours ago, 1uzkillingme2018 said:

Thanks 2bling. Getting my new radiator this weekend. Car will sit. Any idea on what the coolant capacity is and what brand you would reccomend.

Just get Nulon or Penrite coolant from Supercheap/Repco. Not sure if these 1UZ's use green or pink/red coolant - but you can get either type readily these days. You should be able to easily find the coolant capacity either in your user manual or googling.

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