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_ISF last won the day on May 17

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  • Lexus Model*
    Lexus IS-F
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    New South Wales

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  1. Heres what you need. $6k for a running engine, gearbox and all wiring/ecu is a bargain.
  2. If you look at the cost of other IS-F exhaust options on the market, the Xforce will be even more desirable. It is very affordable in comparison. As for noise/sound, we are all different so while many will love the sound, for me it was too loud for everyday (also i have a young child) which is why i started looking at options to quieten it down. I wish i had just bought the varex option to begin with as it would have saved me a tonne of cash. The ability to adjust the sound is great, i run the valves at 50% open for everyday driving which just takes the edge off the boomy sound but still has a nice tone to it (certainly still louder than stock). If i want to go for a spin on my own, i can open the valves up to 100% for max noise. And when i have my daughter in the car or am on the freeway etc i can make it quiet. The bluetooth "Smartbox" is definitely a nice option and i would recommend it. Varex version: https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/xforce-cat-back-exhaust-stainless-steel-w-varex-fits-lexus-isf-2007-es-lisf-vmk-cbs Non Varex version: https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/xforce-cat-back-exhaust-stainless-steel-fits-lexus-isf-2007-es-lisf-cbs
  3. For rotors either buy the OEM Brembo's from ebay USA (much cheaper than sourcing locally) or buy aftermarket DBA rotors from Brakes Direct: https://brakesdirect.com.au/aus/catalogsearch/result/?q=vehicle&make=Lexus&model=IS&generation=XE20%2B%282005-2013%29&submodel=IS%2BF I run the street x version (the gold ones, although i painted mine black) which are both slotted and cross drilled. I have had them on the car now for about 2 years and 10,000km and they are great.
  4. The (japanese made) Project MU NS400 are supposed to be the lowest dust and are very well regarded worldside. I am thinking of buying some and this is the best price i have found: http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_ns.php Otherwise the Winmax W1 are a good option (Japanese made). I have a set of front Winmax pads that were on my car for honestly about 2 months if you want them cheap. $80 and they are yours. I removed them and replaced with Bremtec Euroline pads because of a squeal (which turned out to be my rear pads,...not the fronts as i had thought). The Bremtecs are good, a bit cheaper but more dusty hence why i am considering getting the Project Mu's. I was going to just keep the Winmax pads as spares but if you are interested then snap them up, they would be lucky to have done 1000-1200km's.
  5. Plenty of 1JZ and 2JZ swaps into the older IS200 or IS300 chassis, but that swap is relatively easy because the IS300 comes with a non turbo 2JZ from factory. Im not sure if the inline 6 setup will fit in the nose of the IS250/IS350 given it was designed primarily for a V6. Even the 2URGSE is a very tight fit length wise in there. I doubt the inline 6 would fit to be honest. Sounds like you might need to do either: 1) Swap to an IS350 engine/driveline package. Speak to Lexmania in Sydney about this as they have done some of these conversions. This takes you up to 230kw. 2) Supercharge the IS250 engine. RR Racing in USA have recently released a supercharger kit for the IS250.
  6. Im not sure if anyone can answer this question with 100% certainty because i am not aware of anyone putting the 2URGSE into an IS250, but it is the same chassis so in theory it should fit ok. But it would be a headache sourcing all of the ECU's, sensors, dash cluster, etc etc. Have you tried trading your car in at a dealership on an IS-F?
  7. Hi Niro, Anything is possibly with great sums of money and time. But given you can buy a genuine IS-F that's both newer and has less km's than your current car for around $40-45k (and sell your car for $15k) i say why would you bother with what will be no doubt a very expensive and time consuming conversion on your current car. If you buy a genuine IS-F then you get the engine, gearbox, brakes, bodywork etc etc that was designed around it.
  8. I use the Varex app on my iPhone 6 so i can only offer feedback on the iOS platform. No issues what so ever so far. I dont even carry the backup remote in the car i have that much trust in the app.
  9. If you think you might want to buy the smart box, keep an eye on Sparesbox website as several times a year they will do sales on all xforce products. I got my smart box recently and paid $400 when it was on special (i also got my 2x varex mufflers on special). https://www.sparesbox.com.au/part/xforce-varex-smartbox-varex-control-unit-vksb01
  10. I just replied to your PM. Just a note regarding the standard varex remotes vs the smartbox. WIth the remotes, i could only have the valves fully open or fully closed - there was nothing in between no matter how briefly you pressed the button. Fully closed is very quiet and restrictive and i would use this option very rarely. Full open is quite loud and i will use this every so often if i want to go for a nice drive on my own etc. With the smartbox, i adjusted the preset valve positions to be CLOSED / 15% OPEN / 30% OPEN / 50% OPEN / 70% OPEN / 100% OPEN. I tend to use the 50% Open option for normal daily driving, but have used the 15% and 30% Open on the freeway a few weeks ago and it was much more enjoyable to drive the car on the freeway for several hours with a quiet exhaust.
  11. No rattling in mine (not yet anyway) regardless of whether the valves open or closed or anywhere in between. I have only closed them completely a few times, i mostly leave the valves at 50% open which is a good mix of some noise but not too much for everyday driving.
  12. Apparently its around 8hrs work, but if the shop has experience doing them then it might be a bit quicker. Still wont be a cheap install though.
  13. I must agree with LTuned above. Even if Lexus Chatswood cost a few hundred more than somewhere else, i would be taking my car to them purely because they have the experience of installing headers on IS-F's previously. I was interested in doing the headers myself, but decided that unless i could find some 2nd hand (which isnt easy, especially in Australia) it just wasnt worth the cost (to me).
  14. _ISF

    Tyres for IS-F

    Thanks for the comments and feedback - i am getting 2x Falken Azenis FK510's in 245/35/19 fitted to the front of my car today. Cost was $256 each from Bob Jane (best price locally i could find).
  15. It's been about 4 weeks now and i have filled up several times with the E85 blend with the most recent fill using 15L of Caltex E85 and the rest BP Ultimate 98 octane (which would mean somewhere around a E25 mix, which is still shy of what the yanks are using but im slowly working my way there and making sure the engine is happy along the way). Fuel consumption is noticeably worse. After filling up about 10 days ago with the E25 mix, i have driven 230km's and the vast majority of that has been sedate driving (given that its been double demerit points over the past few weeks). I only have 3 bars of fuel left whereas normally i would have 4 or 5 bars left. And yes the engine feels more responsive and a bit more eager, but im not sure if i will continue down this road for a car that does not go to the dragstrip or track. Given that its a small inconvenience to have to visit 2x fuel stations each time, not knowing exactly what the fuel/ethanol mix is because you always have some fuel left in the tank when you fill up, and a car that is already pretty woeful on fuel (and a small fuel tank) is now even worse on fuel for the couple of times a week i will put my foot down and give it some. I will fill up again sometime this week, and i think this will be the decider. I might do 18-20L of E85 this time for the full E30 blend effect.