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Oil Change- Now Smoking

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I recently changed my oil, used MOBIL 1 however then had white smoke coming out of my exhaust and within 2 weeks oil was down.

Rang lexus and they said the oil could be too thin and going through pistons, strait through exhaust.

So i changed my oil to 15-40 penrite synthetic blend still have smoke

Especiialy when cold and seems to go for a while.

I dint have this problem before, seems strange,

Can anyone advise ...thanks in advance.

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"Especiialy when cold and seems to go for a while."

This is water vapour, very noticeable at this time of year. Oil smoke is blue/grey, (petrol smoke is black and old carbon deposits come out brown...) and occurs either under acceleration constantly (rings) or just when accelerating from idling at the lights (valve guide seals)

I wouldn't worry about the smoke, just monitor the oil usage. If you cruise round town a lot & it dosen't go down, but suddenly uses some when on a long trip, it is from water dissolving in the oil on short trips and being heated out on a long trip. This is quite normal also.


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cool thanks

I think i missed a bit on the original post...as one day when i got home i heard a noise from the engine , it was boiling water after inspection i found that the radiator cap was broken. waited for it to cool down then added water and brought a new cap. and then changed oil.

I spoke to one guy today who said it will probably be the rubbers on the head, but u cant change them as u need to get the head reconditioned. which is very expensive.

He said " dont worry just put in some good " no smoke " which will close the gaps in the rubbers and this will stopthe smoke.

From the knowledge i know that no smoke stuff isint that good for the engine. Anyone have any knowledge regarding this.

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Hmmm... Where are 'the rubbers'?? In the head gasket?

Do you have-

Water drops in the oil filler cap, or the oil showing a light milky brown colour yet? (water getting into the sump)

Oil film on the top of the water in the radiator? (oil getting into the radiator)

Do you lose-



If you lose water, fill the rad up before starting the car, leave the cap off, then let the car idle for 10minutes. Watch the water level at the top of the rad. If it suddenly boils over and runs out, but is cold, then you have warped the head. If it warms up quickly without boiling over, head gasket is sealing the compression OK.

Let me know what you can find out-


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Also i noticed sludge built up when i took oil cap off inside the top part of engine . what is going on i sont understand im in the garage with my wireless connection sending this post...maybe i can get an answer while im here ::) thanks guys

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Sludge buildup, usually with drops of water in, shows rad water going into sump. New head gasket needed.

I used to take the plug leads off to stop it starting, not sure if it is OK in these fancy computer-controled fuel injection systems.

Starting from cold with rad cap off will show you the same as rad pressure test. If the head gasket is leaking pressure from cyls into rad then the rad suddenly overflows as the bubbles get trapped under the closed thermostat and go to the bottom of the rad instead. This pushes all the water out until the thermostat opens.

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Thanks greeneyes,

There was no water in the sludge and no milky in the oil,

can the valve seals on the head gasket be changed or does it need a full re-condition. and someone mentioned " no smoke additives"

what do these do i thought they were just a temp fix. and usually to hide the smoke only anyone have info about these no smoke addtives .?

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Any head gasket work means lifting the head and usually skim it flat again. (overheating warps the head into a curve on the bottom where it sits on the head gasket.)

Valve guide seals (on the top of the guides under the cams) can usually be changed (with a few tricks) without lifting the head off, but if they fail (through old age only) they give oil smoke (grey) at traffic light acceleration.

It sounds like head skim time. You shouldn't have to touch the valves, but I'll bet the mechanic will try to get you to have them ground and the seats cut. Last head job cost me $5000 on my turbo Nissan Cifero @ Turbo Vehicles here in Aucks.

You're right about the additives. They're all just variations of thick oil and are temp fixes for selling dud cars.

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