Jump to content

1G-Fe Engine Conversion

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

I've been trawling the net for a couple of weeks now trying to find the exterior dimensions of the 1G engine. I'm specifically after 1G-FE details (going for the narrower cylinder head), but anything would be helpful at this point.

To give you a bit of background, one of my cars is a 1965 Austin Healey Sprite IIIA, currently in storage, and in dire need of some TLC. I was considering a new body for conversion to a Sebring Sprite, when I came across the the Works Falcon Sprite (http://www.sebringsprite.com/EdLeavensNassau59.gif). Apologies to the moderators for linking to external sites.

Anyway, I fell in love with the look of the car, and I will be restoring the old IIIa in its likeness, but my current 1 litre engine seems wanting; enter the 3.8 liter Jag engined Sprite (http://www.coupers-cars.com/sprite_restoration.htm), I've always loved a straight six, so this seems like a obvious solution.

Unfortunately getting the car registered in NSW after an engine conversion is not without it's own difficulties. Because of the original weight of the car (just over 700kg) I'm limited to 2.1 liters NA or 1.7 Liters forced induction.

The answer? 1G-FE. (I hope) Before anyone suggests it, I think the 3S-GE is probably too wide, and too expensive.

In short, I'm planning on turning my 1965 Sprite into a replica of a 1959 Works Sprite, and replacing the engine with a 2l Straight Six 1G-FE.

I've managed to source either the engine alone ($500) or a half cut ($2500 - $3000) but I'm not willing to part with my money until I'm sure of the fit, and the parts I've found are all interstate.

So, to return to my question, I'm looking for the dimensions of the engine:

1. from bottom of sump to top of rocker covers

2. length from bellhousing to belts, and

3. width from manifold to manifold.

I'm not suggesting anyone head out to their garage and measure their engine (unless you want to), but if anyone has this info it would be a great help to me.

Obviously I'm going to have issues with the ECU (I've never had a computer controlled car before, and it seems a long way from tuning twin SUs). I am, however, a programmer by trade, so I'm sure I'll be able to muddle through the ECU tuning somehow. Probably just need to find a way to avoid the engine fault codes for all the sensors I won't have, like ABS etc. etc. And I'll definitely need some kind of aftermarket ECU.

Just for fun, I also estimate the new fiberglass body will take my kerb weight down under 650 kg :D

Cheers, and I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about the IS250 V6

they come in Manual too

Thanks for the suggestion ilv, but the main issue is the limited width between the driver and passenger footwells. I'll be removing the battery/heater tray to move the engine as far back as possible, to reduce weight distribution issues, and I'm only left with a trapezoidal space <400 wide at the back, <500 wide at the front, and <600 tall.

To give you an idea of how narrow a car we're talking about, The track (front & back) is less than 1200. Most other engine swaps have had to steal space from the already narrow footwells; something I'd rather avoid. Hence hoping I might get away with the slim FE head.

And, due to daft restrictions, I can't go over 2.1 litres NA...

Thanks though!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...