Sirnixalot

ouuu nice build up so far. I missed what happened to the car in the first place but i sure hope ti doesnt happen again. Forged pistons ey? You sure? They might just be really good quality cast? I dont want to get my hopes up lol

well ..whilst fiddling around with the nitrous install i noticed the flapper door on the intake box. Its for the induction scoop that gets the air from the front of the bonnet. This thing is closed most of the time...after revving the engine it would open up after i let off the throttle (was doing it in the engine bay by hand). Ive since removed the electronic bit and plugged the vacuum port on the throttle body. HOLY *BLEEP*! the car is a butt load more even.....no where near as peaky as it was before. The top end power is just amazing! It just pulls and pulls. I can break these 45 series tires like my old 35series now :D If any of you havent dont this yet...do it! Ill post pix of what im talking about later on tonight.

:D thats huge for an NA 2cyl. Using 340cc as the injector rate should give us a rough idea of what the fuel pump should flow. 340 x 4 = 1360cc/min 1360 x 0.001 = 1.36 L/min 1.36 x 60 = 81.6 L/hr Looks like an 81 liter per hour fuel pump. It might be more but deffinately not less.

lol thanks for the replies guys I havent tested the nitrous line for leaks as yet because the bottle is empty. Ill be testing everything out tommorow. If all goes well ill be able to test everything tommorow :)

Did the install today. Ran into a few snags ...no -3an hose on island and i had to rape a banjo bolt from my pulsar. I had to reposition the battery box to allow the nitrous bottle to be mounted in the spare tire well. I ran the nitrous line under the drivers side carpet and had it pop through the wiring harness grommet The nozzle is positioned right after the MAF I had a banjo bolt for the oil line on my pulsar. Turns out this banjo fits the fuel rail on the altezza...my ass is saved :D Over view of engine bay...not many changes visible A shot of the pricariously mounted solenoids....they are bolted to a C bracket i made and i have quite a few zip ties as saftey lines. This is a temporary measure till i get the -3an lines from summit. The arming swtich is at the back of that useless pocket under the radio Im going to order some -3an hose from summit soon as well as some new jets. Right now i am using some hardline that i got with the kit and 40hp jets.

Greeneyes there are too many unknows but those formulas are just used for estimates. I used 0.5 BSFC to err on the side of caution. Better safe than sorry. 330cc injectors will support 213.7hp @ 85% duty cycle and 0.5 BSFC. It may very well be 330's :o

Anyone know the size of the stock injectors? Im making a guess at like 310cc or something near there. Just making an educated guess but i want to be sure Four 310cc injectors will support 200hp at 85% duty cycle. 310 / 10.5 (to find fuel flow rate in lbs per hour) = 29.52 lb/hr 29.52 x 85% = 25.092 At a BSFC (brake specific fuel consumption) of 0.5 this yeilds 25.092 / 0.5 = 50.184hp per injector 50.184 x 4 = 200.736hp I know the Beams 3SGE is rated at 210hp but i think its safe to say they wont be larger than 310cc's...maybe 320cc (using the same method as above yeilds support for 207hp). Can anyone verify?

ive just smothered mine with vaseline...there is a spray for this as well. It coats the terminals...its yellowish if i remember

i dont think anyone makes a 7x10.....the adapter plate isnt that hard to make...just get a sheet of aluminum and make an outline of the stock speakers...cut that out then use the cut out shape for the 6x9's...voila adapter plates. If you use metal to make the plates line one side with dynamat ...the side that will contact the rear deck. This is to prevent rattling.

the rear speakers are 7x10. You have to make up an adapter plate to properly fit 6x9's. I can email you pix of mine...i cant put any up as ive run out of space on my host You have to take out the rear seats and rear deck then you can use a 10mm socket...the smallest one you can find prefferably and take out the speakers. Add about 2-3hours labour to take out the seats and make up the adapter plates.

that size and series tire on a 17" wheel will also enable me to turn the wheels over easier...which is what i think contributed to the cars tendency to over steer with the previous Toyos. I was able to turn the tires over easier. I kind of like the car with the thicker tires. It is teaching me alot about car control. I cant just rely on the power of the car to go into a slide anymore, i have to consciously control the weight balance of the vehicle in the corner. Left foot braking is the hardest thing i have had to learn. Brake modulation with your left foot in clos proximity to the right foot and the gas pedal while being pressed against my seat is challenging....and fun as all hell :D

yeah i still have the stock wheels. It will give a little more bias but i have more tire out back to grip if i get myself into trouble. Besides...when i can finally afford sways it wont really matter :D

no rubbing at all and thats with a 2" drop B) I had about 1cm of clearance from the strut body Next tire change i plan on using 225 40 up front and 235 40 in the rear

its not as easy as it sounds. The 180sx has a machpherson strut design where as the Altezza has a dual a-arm. The springs and shocks will be hard to manuver through the a-arms with all of them connected. The brake lines will also get in your way. To make your life easier you might want to disconnect the top or the bottom a-arm from the hub to give you some room.

your right :) i was hoping to help regain some of the oversteer i had when the car had 245 35 Toyo T1S's all around.....with these new tires in the stock size 215 45 the car has sooooooooooooo much understeer. Ill probably move the box farther back.

Ive found some cheap sparco steering wheel hubs.....but they dont list the IS300 or altezza....they do how ever list the supra. Im hoping that some one knows :D

I decided i would rape the battery box and wire from my race car (its down semi permanently) and chuck it in the altezza. I used a factory grounding point that was right next to the battery, after i cleaned it up a bit of course. I ran the batter cable across the engine bay to avoid the headers and exhaust. I used 4 bolts with large washers to secure the box to the trunk floor. I had to drill holes in the trunk floor for the bolts. I also cut out the middle of one of the stock grommets and used that as the entry point for the posifive cable. For the ground i used the spare tire thingy....after i cleaned it up. Ill post driving impressions in a while...gotta clean up now <_<

it seems i need more practice...or it was alot colder where you are

the fastest ive done was a 15.67 @ 99 MPH. Thats with the gas light on My mods are Apexi drop in filter Blitz Nurspec De-cat Home made grounding kit Cobra Suzuka Technology bucket seat (worth about 7-9kg over the stock seat)

:P thanks....im going to clean the engine as soon as i get some degreaser

it took me about 2 hours to do the engine cover, fuse box covers and all 4 calipers. I cleaned all the parts to be painted thoroughly with "Windex multi surface with vinegar".....soap and water will do but i cant resist spray bottles lol. Just make sure you get them really clean. You can then go over the part with some 1000 grit sand paper if you like to help the paint bond (after sanding clean thoroughly again). I didnt do this with the engine cover because if i messed up i could clean it off and have the sparkly grey left unscathed. I masked off the stripes, the dual vvti logo and the beams logo. That took the most time. I found it best to use a strip (or a few as the case may be) of masking tape for each stripe and logo seperately. Its a waste of masking tape but you dont get the tape sliding off one strip while your cutting the tape for the strip next to it. Just get a razor blade and go slow. I did 2 coats of the stuff but i didnt do a clear. The can of clear said it would dull the sparkly ness a little...so i left it off. When spraying do it in 2-3 light coats. The first coat will look uneven and you will still see the base color...wait about 5-7mins (or see the directiosn on the back of the spray paint can) and do the other. Repeat till you get an even color. I didnt use any kind of special heat paint.....im dont think this stuff will burn off. I put the cover in the oven (shhhh dont tell my mum :D ) for about 3mins @ the lowest setting to help the paint cure. You dont have to do this....but it helps. Dont bother with the fuse covers...cause you could melt those. thats it really....its not too hard and wont cost you the earth. And i feel the results are well worth the effort B)

Wanted a cheap semi labour intensive project to do today....and here is what i did Did the front calipers (rears to come...just having a rest :P ) Did the fuse box covers and the valve covers...cover as well what you guys think?

im interested in knowing this too. i intend on putting a 100hp shot of nitrous on mine but i if the pump is like a 90lph unit ill take the walbro 255 out of my race car (Pulsar GTi-R) and pop it in the altezza.

you can default it to off alt the time but you cant ever turn it on again...unless you resolder the wires. Ive done this to mine. Just take the 2 wires that go to the traction control switch and solder them together...voila instant off as you turn the key B)

to be honest....dont bother with the pod filter or induction kit without an APexi heat shield. You will lose hp without it. Drop in filter of your choice or Apexi induction kit & heat shield.