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Spec

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Posts posted by Spec

  1. It took a while to sell mine... have to find a Lexus enthusiast, most others are looking for European performance cars. 

    The guy I sold to was the same, once I told him how much (little) it costs to maintain/insure this compared to ze germans... and drove him around the block - he was convinced that this was a better buy than the other's he'd been looking at. TBH, around 5 years back, I was in similar situation, looking for an Audi S5 (or maybe M5) till someone told me about Lexus - I didn't even know that Lexus had a performance car at the time other than the LFA. 

    @rysith - it maybe worth considering removing the aftermarket parts (except the body kit) and selling on this forum - it's likely you'd get a few interested folks. you've got more than 10K in upgrades, Unlikely you'll get the value of those upgrades in the price of your car as  single sell. 

    best of luck with the sale.

    • Like 1
  2. Yeah, probably 8 months or so. Was off market for a while and also over Dec/Jan as I was not around. 

    The person who bought this had never driven Lexus before - but was into Japanese performance cars. He was pleasantly surprised once he started driving it. Lexus still needs to go a fair bit in promotion/motor sport in order for people to realise that they can make performance cars. 

  3. On 22/02/2018 at 3:01 PM, avpharm said:

    Hey guys,

     

    New to the forum really want to get myself into an IS-F. Have had a few jdm cars in the past s2000, rx7, mx5's, evos .

     

    If you guys know anyone selling I'm after a 2010 plus and have a budget of $40,000 might be pushing my luck there but happy to look at older cars.

     

    Regards,

    Andy.

     

    I'm selling mine - low mileage (mostly fun miles, not city driving) - if you're open to getting a VIC car. 

    No mods on the car, nice and clean - and some of the forums folks can vouch for the condition of the car. 

    https://au.lexusownersclub.com/forums/topic/13817-for-sale-lexus-2010-isf-my-2011/

     

  4. The BT stack is bit odd - there's a pairing sequence that is initiated when 2 devices have to pair, and sometimes the timing of this results in failure. 

    Here's what I recommend you do -

    - If you have ever connected the Samsung S5 to this car before, try removing the link first. Also remove all other phones listed there which are no longer in use and make sure that there is at least 1 space available to store a new phone

    - If the phone was removed in step above, switch off and restart the car (just ACC mode is fine, no need to start the engine)

    - Switch on bluetooth on phone and then 'long press' the BT icon, under paired devices, remove all that are not relevant

    - Switch off BT on phone

    - On car screen, from the phone menu, select add phone - this forces the car to broadcast the BT availability and wait for pin, immediately after this, turn on BT on the phone, the car device should be visible and you can try to pair it. Sometimes during this you'll get a popup on the phone stating that the car wants to pair with PIN 'XXXXX'. Depends on if the phone makes the connection or the car does. Once done, click accept on the phone first, then on the car screen

     

    Alternatively, you may also see a message on the phone stating that the car wants to access Phonebook and messages - you'll need to allow this.  

  5. 3 hours ago, banserki said:

    Will 265/35 make a noticeable difference over 255/35 in the rear? The 255 are $50 cheaper than the 265. Will 255/40 work? 

    265/35 vs 255/35 - There is a difference - I notice that it slips less on 2nd gear in wet conditions. Also the ride is a bit more softer. 

    AS BLK says - 255/40 in the front will not work. Essentially, the tyre you choose should not have more than 15mm rolling dia difference to the original spec. 

    In the front, stock is 225/40 and a 255/35 will be 1.5mm smaller in dia, which is ok. a 255/40 will be 24mm difference, that's unlikely to pass road worthy. 

    In the rear, stock is 255/35 and a 265/35 is 7mm diff and a 275/30 is 13.5mm diff.

    a 285/30 rear will be better at 7.5mm difference, but it won't fit the stock rims - BLK should be ok, since he's got aftermarket rims.

  6. On 03/10/2017 at 10:20 AM, Noodle Boy said:

    Steering feels odd as in it feels heavier? I remember the steering felt like proper power steering with the stock 225 tyres, but since I switched to 245 Michelin PSS they feel rather heavy at crawling pace.

    Yes, this is normal - the steering was tuned for 225 width tyres, at 245, it will feel heavy and quite noticeable at slow speeds under 10kph. 

    On the hills though, it feels really nice with all that grip on the front, it feels nice and planted. 

  7. 6 hours ago, banserki said:

    I don't track but drive quite harshly. I have decided on the Michelin Pilot 4s. Are the sizes 245/35R19 front and 265/35R19 rear ok? When I order them is there a left side and right side model or does it not matter?

    yeah, these will be fine. 

    At 265/35 the rear will feel a bit more softer (since the air cushion is increased using this profile compared to 255/35 stock). 

    The front is significantly better in the fast sweepers and corners, but steering will feel a bit odd at very slow speeds 5-10kph like during turning in and out of a driveway or parking. 

  8. Stock setup is:

    Front - 225/40 R19

    Rear - 255/35 R19 

    Michelin PS3 should be just over 300 per corner, Michelin PSS would be closer to 350 each

    You could also opt for Continental CS3 which should be around 300. 

    If you want more grip, go 245/35 on front and 265/35 on rear.  The extra rear width helps a bit with power traction in the wet and wider front is much better in the hills.

    There will be a slight difference in the speedometer indicated speed - on stock mine was off by 4kph, now it's off by only 1 kph.

  9. On 17/08/2017 at 11:52 PM, Stamatic said:

    Thanks Spec. I love how it is so comfortable to drive. Drop the foot and it comes alive. I''m guessing an exhaust change will turn me into an 20 year old again :D

    Probably will :) 

    My preference was not to mod my car - especially on the exhaust. Lexus gave this exhaust to Yamaha to tune the sound; I think it's got a very good balance in terms of tone and loudness. 

    It's just enough that you can hear it even when cruising and remind you that it's there should you wish to push that pedal. I've heard a few aftermarket ones; not a fan of the additional drone; takes away from the luxury when cruising. 

    Driving spirited on the roads; I don't think this car needs more power, so no Intakes and exhausts - needs wider tyres and could loose a little weight. I've gone wider with tyres and it has made a difference on my drives through the hills.

    If I were to track this, I probably would have gone Intake, exhaust and front splitter & rear diffuser; but on the road, for what I use it for, these additions don't make sense. 

  10. welcome... These cars are quite reliable, I think Toyota uses bin parts which have least amount of issues from the other cars they make... 

    Interesting about the Audi - I had a A4 B7 and never had any issues with it - it was a 2L Turbo S-line; and I used to give it a lot of juice from the right foot.  The only thing I had to replace on it was the driver's side window regulator which I strongly suspect was because of a really bad 20k drive on rough terrain which I should have turned back instead of attempting.  The plastic housing broke and only option was to replace the whole unit - since no one makes these small parts anymore. 

  11. when driving an IS-F there's no such thing as too far :yes:  

    I've done great alpine road on my motorbike this Easter - it was awesome; got lucky with some fantastic weather as well. 

    It does need an overnight stay though so that you're fresh when you drive/ride that road; stay up in Bright or Omeo and then drive the next day. Well worth it. 

    Even the road up from Bright to Hotham and all the way to Omeo is fun. All summer roads though... 

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