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ISF dyno run this week....how many kw?


_ISF

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I've booked my ISF in to my local dyno on Friday afternoon (Mainline dyno @ Newcastle Dyno Centre). Curious what everyone thinks it will make based off best guesses and some of you with first hand experience.

Engine related Mods:

  • AFE filter
  • HPS silicone intake pipe
  • xforce exhaust
  • gutted primary cats


Im hoping for around 260kw at the wheels which with a 20% drivetrain loss will equate to around 330kw at the crank. Considering the car came with 311kw from the factory plus the mods im assuming will be about right.

The other thing im going to do is test back-to-back whether there is any loss/gain from disabling the airbox flap so that it remains open at all times.

Curious what others think? 

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3 hours ago, 2bling said:

240 rwkw if its a Mainline dyno. Mine was 237 same mods but still had primary cats, 270 after tune, good luck.

270 after the tune for you? Which tune if you dont mind me asking? Im unsure whether to just go with the RR Racing OBD II tune (convenient, well priced and saves me having to drive 2.5hrs to get custom tuned) or go see Autowerks for a custom tune. Id really like some more low end power and a few extra hundred RPM up top would be great too.

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Yep autowerks but they stuffed the tune (car went into full limp mode no power had to truck it back and they only payed for half the cost not impressed ) go RR they are the people that cracked the ECU in the first place, in hindsight I would have gone RR 7200 red line would be nice, and it looks very easy to load cheers.PS RR tune is half the price. Someone on here went full RR tune intake etc. and got very good results  

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Pre-Tune Dyno Check

Well the car was very consistent (all 4x runs were within 3kw of each other) and there was no difference in power/torque delivery by keeping the active airbox open. The best run today was 249kw.

Im currently researching tunes and will be getting the car re-dyno'd at the same place once tuned to see the different. Hopefully 20-30kw more after the tune and some stronger mid-range.

Dyno Run Graph2.jpg

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9 hours ago, 2bling said:

Good power but I haven't seen a torque figure go down like that ??

Its the scale he used on the graph that exaggerrates the torque dropping off at high RPM. 

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9 hours ago, 2bling said:

No I meant at low rpm??

The dyno operator said he had issues with the car wheelspinning on the dyno so he had to feed the throttle on rather than just mash it.

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On 5/9/2018 at 4:54 PM, 2bling said:

Yep autowerks but they stuffed the tune (car went into full limp mode no power had to truck it back and they only payed for half the cost not impressed ) go RR they are the people that cracked the ECU in the first place, in hindsight I would have gone RR 7200 red line would be nice, and it looks very easy to load cheers.PS RR tune is half the price. Someone on here went full RR tune intake etc. and got very good results  

And now he’s up for a rebuild 🤔

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On 5/13/2018 at 6:46 PM, _ISF said:

The dyno operator said he had issues with the car wheelspinning on the dyno so he had to feed the throttle on rather than just mash it.

If he’s got spin with 250kw he’s not strapping it down correctly, feeding the throttle sounds like a bs excuse 

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I thought the gearbox went bang not the motor after all he was at a track flogging the date out of it, please correct me if I'm wrong.

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You cant blame the tune as the sole issue when the car had 120,000kms on it and they guy flogs the heck out of it at the track on a regular basis. Do we know if the car had any previous or existing issues/faults? 

I have a sneaky suspicion that something else was at play with that particular car. 

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It all seems shady as lol, had a warning light for the auto also... I guess we will have to wait and see after it’s been diagnosed. My guess it’s run lean 

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On 5/19/2018 at 10:13 AM, 18ADF said:

And now he’s up for a rebuild 🤔

 

On 5/19/2018 at 6:42 PM, 2bling said:

CAN YOU EXPLAIN THIS ????????????

 

On 5/20/2018 at 11:58 AM, 18ADF said:

It’s on the lexus isf/rcf/gsf club Australia fb page 

 

On 5/20/2018 at 5:13 PM, 2bling said:

I had a quick look on fb but couldn't find anything, so can you fill me in cheers.

 

On 5/21/2018 at 2:36 PM, Sparky said:

Faaaaaark he was so impressed with RR etc, and then bang, so hard when its overseas product and not individually dyno tuned. Personally would not do it.

 

On 5/21/2018 at 6:20 PM, 2bling said:

I thought the gearbox went bang not the motor after all he was at a track flogging the date out of it, please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

On 5/22/2018 at 5:25 PM, 18ADF said:

It all seems shady as lol, had a warning light for the auto also... I guess we will have to wait and see after it’s been diagnosed. My guess it’s run lean 

Just to set the record straight - the issue being discussed here has nothing to do with the RR Racing tune. This guy has posted on FB about how the engine has been stripped and all bearings, pistons, crank etc look fine. He is guessing its an issue with one of the heads or possibly valves but its yet to be correctly diagnosed. The guy has terrible punctuation so trying to make sense of his FB posts is not easy.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Im booked back into the dyno this week to see the difference the RR Tune has made (no other changes have been made to the car at all except for the RR Tune). The RR Tune has been loaded on the car for approx 1 month (give or take a few days) and i have driven around 600km in that time (incl around town driving, some full throttle pulls and around 300km of highway driving)

Info from RR Tuning recommends doing some pulls in 4th gear from 3000-6800rpm to allow the 4x knock sensors to "re-learn" after loading on the tune. I have already done this on a section of freeway at night about 3 weeks ago, but will do it again the night before the dyno run to make sure everything is set right.

The car certainly feels more responsive (throttle response is much better) and as a result the acceleration feels more urgent - it will be interesting to see how this translates in actual power gains on the dyno.

RR Racing quote between 20-50 wheel horsepower (approx 14-37kw) and 25-50ft/lbs torque (approx 30-65nm) with the tune and my mods. 

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To put your best foot forward at the dyno, you need to max out this particular value in the ECU.

To do that, you need to subject the car to wide throttle and high load.  So pulling up a long hill in a high gear is perfect.  Be mindful that there is a value for sub-3000rpm and over-3000rpm, so you need to ensure that you load up the car above 3k rpm with a wide throttle.  Easier said than done without doing huge speed 🙂 but if you can find a hill, then 2-3s stabs of the throttle in a high gear at say 3300rpm will do the trick.  Rinse and repeat a few times.  I find that rapid acceleration runs don't quite re-sample fast enough, you need to get the motor to strain against a load.

Also be mindful that being stuck in traffic and getting the underbonnet all hot can cause the value to drop, as the ecu dials things back to protect itself.  So rolling straight out of a traffic jam onto the dyno is not a good idea 🙂

 

Techstream10a.png

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^ yes that value you have circled in your screenshot is what is mentioned in the RR Racing information (they say to get that figure between 20-23 for optimal results but you need the Techstream software to see that value...which i do not have). 

I was planning to take the car out tonight to the freeway and do some 3rd and 4th gear pulls (using the freeway so that im not exceeding the speed limit any more than i have to) with minimal traffic. After doing this (and the fact i have already driven around 600-650km since loading the tune on) should mean those figures should be in the optimal range on my car.

Dyno is 8am tomorrow - i live in Newcastle to no traffic jams here to worry about, and the air will be cool and dense.

Below is a quote from the RR Racing document:

"Your ISF ECU uses 4 knock sensors to continually monitor for engine knock (detonation) and increase ignition timing over time to make more power. Your ECU has a learning correction factor that ranges from 15 – 25 (note, this parameter can only be dataloged using Toyota Techstream software). When you reset your ECU (by removing the ground cable from the battery), ECU learning correction drops to 15. As you drive, that number goes up.

In order to optimize power, the learning correction factor needs to be in the range of 20-23. The most effective way to get this number to go up as quickly as possible is to do long pulls from 3000-6800 rpm, in 4th gear. Doing so can bring your correction factor up within 50 miles of driving. Otherwise, it will take longer.

Please note, RR-Racing does not condone exceeding the speed limit on public roads, all testing should be performed on a race track."

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Results are in....265kw at the wheels. Same dyno, similar/same weather conditions, same dyno operator, no other mods or changes to the car other than the RR Racing ECU tune.

Previous results (prior to the tune) were between 247-249kw, so the tune has increased power and torque all through the powerband with a maximum gain of around 16-18kw at the wheels.

Attached dyno graph shows a comparision between the stock tune and the RR Racing tune (gains in power and torque all throughout the rev range, but where the stock tune died off at around 6,000rpm, the RR tune keeps going until redline).

 

Dyno run v2.jpeg

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Hey pretty good results and nice power curve.  Looks like you gained everywhere, i know most times you'll gain most top end but some loose a touch mid etc

From memory with my local tune i gained about 13kw but at that time i had less mods than yourself so i assume with more mods my first tune would of netted better results, similar to yours.

Different dyno so hard to compare but good to see your before and after improvement, thats the main thing.  I ended up sticking to the same tuner throghout my mods so my final after result is more meaningful to compare to my early days.

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