334mm

so I got into my car the other day and noticed at night that my screen was blinding me. The screen didn't turn to night/blacked out version. Now, i swear it was my brother playing around with the settings to turn back on the DRL that i turned off. Now i can't seem to find the settings that makes it dim at night. Anyone know what to do? Or is it just broken? note: lol noticed i spelt sat nav wrong. my computer has stupid apple auto correct crap.

I'm getting confused lol.... Atlantis: what's you recommendations? yeah 235 is stretched! Can do it though :)

Yeah, i agree with that opinion, no real point... But then again, I'm not a fan of replicas or anything. When it comes to wheels you should only trust made in japan or germany or england.... lol basically nothing from the other parts of asia except Japan. Heavy heavy car, fake chinese wheels. Death awaiting.... or a big crash. again my 2c.

I would maybe go for 9.5 +30 front (any less and you may have trouble clearing the inner steering arm) 10.5 +15 will cause serious rub, 10.5 +22 should be fine with stretched tyres. You will need 235, if you are feeling lucky... 245! Get nice wheels nuts btw. Some nice kics or race nuts. The crappy duraluminium (or how ever you spell) are big no no for nice wheels. P.S I'm liking this thread :) k2sty1: A side note for CE28N's.... lol CE28N's are boring... Everyone has them these days. I know they are structure wise, they are better the the SSR with Ray's special forging method, but you are saving grams.... not kilos. SSR's are mighty fine wheels, light weight and strong. They are not heavy like works wheels or anything. (hmm mad rant much? lol yeah maybe... sorry haha)

The stock one sounds better imo.

9 and 10 is awesome. Everytime i see Terrrrrrrry's car i feel ashamed cause he's balling on 10's at the rear. Just a thing, you might need to get your rear guard rolled to the fender to clear wider wheels. And with the stated specs above, you want to run 225 front and 255 rear or less tyres. If you are going to get nice wheels like that, you got to run nice offset :)

Well first off, don't bother going with 8 at the front. that's the stock width and very weak. minimum 8.5 :) I don't think you want too aggressive, so you can go with 8.5 and 9.5 in the low +30 offsets. If you want a bit off poke then 8.5 9.5 and low +20 offsets, or 9 and 10 with low +30 offsets.

Sorry, i meant sketchy for jesse streeter cause he isn't a local dealer, and can't really give you warranty on anything. You shouldn't have any problems with fitting those specs over the brakes considering what the stock specs are. But if you can, go wider mate :)

jesse streeter is a guy in japan who deals direct with the manufacturers. He's really good, and he profits from a small cut in the prices. Is much much cheaper then going to jdmyard and crap like that. Only thing is that warranty is very sketchy, but then again.... if you buy japanese, you expect quality. I've never had anything japanese fail on me. Good choice in wheels btw, I love SSR's! That and Advan RS-D. Look much better than my volks.

The new cars come with clear. I have clear instead of the red.

If was super duper rich and loved to splurge on me then definitely. Maybe she'd get me a C63 :)

lol I'm lucky i got wheels in a dirty colour. Brake dust doesn't seem to change the colour much. As for the smell, it's not the resonator. I think we should all know by now a resonator is just a wave cropper. As they reflect and oscillate inside, waves get cropped. Also, stock resonators tend not to have rubbishy stuff inside (e.g. glass fibre) to cause such a smell. It's a chemical reaction that is based in their cats. The cats appear to reacting with the sulphur in the petrol. As we probably learnt from high school, hydrogen sulphide causes a bad egg like smell (similar to dormant volcanos), and this appears to be the chemical being created in the cat. I can't quite remember the chemicals exactly that are required to produce this, but if memory serves me correct, it requires high temperatures (e.g. in volcanos), this is totally possible considering that cats get (and require to get) hot. (This is to do with the cat only working with high temps, and why they tend to be double walled to rise catalytic light off etc etc).

Yeah, the car is reliable. Never had any real issues with the many Lex's in the family. I honestly don't really know the long term effects of the things i've described above. But i can't imagine all the metal shavings i saw is healthy. On that note, i didn't feel any improvement in engine response la di da di da etc etc after the flush. And on another side note, had a family friends hilux do over 100k without a service before it blew up. Yup no service ever! lol my dad freaked when he was actually the one who was driving at the time it blew up.

Lexus servicing intervals are bad. Lexus didn't want to service my car at 1,000km. I took it to get it serviced myself, and saw the filter. It was FULL of metal shavings, and same as the oil. I can't believe that lexus is okay with running that amount of metal shavings in the filter for 15,000km. Just as a note, most filters (for most other japanese cars) will tend to get blocked and not filter correctly after 5,000km (roughly) and they will simply push the diaphragm's spring and totally bypass filters to run straight back through unfiltered. I'm not sure if this would be the same case as the IS350, cause I haven't got my 5,000km service, but I'll report back. Bets are that the filter is totally crapped out though.

If you are parking about the parker lights then yes T10 is what you are looking for. Try not to buy the $1 ones, cause they tend to blow up quickly, and they are annoying to install.

Try different types of fuel. I only get it bad when i use shell V-power. For the RX350, BP all good, shell all Shjt Same case for the ES300 (this was the worst of them on shell) Same case for the RX330 Never touched shell on the IS though

These came in. PM if you want some. $10 each. And a note for people who get new cars, i would recommend servicing at 1000km yourself if lexus doesn't drop the oil for you. I got mine done, it was full of engine/metal shavings on the filter. Oil colour was pretty clear i must admit, but again with shavings running through the oil.

I suspect that the fronts with that offset and width will hit the suspension arm

Okay. Will be ordering tomorrow. Last chances guys!

I can bet they are going to be much better then your stocks. But i'm not sure if they make them for IS250/350/F. Someone might want to chime in with better knowledge. Price? Not sure, but usually they go for somewhere in the 3k range for the V3.

Okay so when people talk about how much clicking their dampeners can do it doesn't really show anything. It's all about how much of an effect each of these clicks will do. I've driven cars (is200) with bc coilovers or G4's and plenty of other taiwan/china coil overs. Those clicks really mean nothing, they don't have real effect. Now i've driven with teins, and the clicks make an effect, but they suffer from the fact their compression and rebound were single adjustment (i've never sat in N1 spec or driven, so I'm not sure about whether they are good). But here is the good stuff, KW and OHLINS have NOTICEABLE differences when you click just once. Easily one click on KW makes 15 clicks on a bc coils. And to that, most of them will have compression and rebound adjustment which makes a real difference. So why do i say it offers better ride then stock with these? Well it comes down to the valves. The valve technology is just that.... its technology, its real researched stuff, each car is usually tested individually sometimes on a suspension dyno. They offer variable valving rates, dependent on the force and rate they will compress and rebound at different rates. So e.g. when a pot hole is hit, it will open valves at a larger rate, some with twin rates, will automatically open the larger valve. But when cornering, the large valve is not opened, and it bleeds into the reservoir at a flow adjusted rate. Spring rates? Well springs only play a small part of the whole package. The damper is by far more important. Some other brands that i can recommend from personal experience (limited, cause they are not my cars): Arigosta, Bilstein, HKS, tein and probably some others i can't really remember. But having said that for the money, i quite like the tanabe ones, but the adjustment is a gimmick. The BC golds, they are ok for the price, older models were not so good. Please note, apart from they tanebes, these are all based on other model cars. Every car is different right?

That's not always true. But true usually in the case of springs. Some coilovers will have variable dampener valving ratings which will make a comfortable ride (basically stock) but can be dropped to nice height with slight improvements in stability. I've seen this in two coil overs that i know. But not for IS's Ohlins and KW. They both offer BETTER ride then stock. But offer better handling with ride height adjustability. I believe KW has coil overs for our cars, but they are expensive.

So was that whole situation where the front sway bar only give "6%" increase in torsional rigidity for IS350 solved? I'm still considering getting front, but not if its going to give me such little gains.

haha really? These come with the later of the models pre installed only comment I got was from Terrrrrrrry lol. But yeah this is a really good thing to have. Love it!

So I've been able to work something out. It looks like it would be around $10 for each filter, which is considerably cheaper then what you can get from here. I've been quote by a friend who works in the servicing department at toyota/lexus that its $25 a filter. I'm looking for people to send me PM with how many they are looking at buying. I will finalised the numbers by the end of the week. So please PM me by this friday. And just as another reminder, I am located in sydney, so this is most likely only worthwhile for the sydney people.