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Posted

Hello

I have ordered my new rotors and pads and will be needing to install them shortly.

Has anyone done this before? I did it years ago on another car with a mechanic friend, but he's not available this time.

Is it easy? and are there any tips or tricks to help make it easier to get it right the first time?

Thanks

Posted

theres not much to it

if your changing rotors and pads should be easy

make sure you get a G clamp to push the brake pistons back in

other than that it's pretty straight forward

just on top of my head

1. jack the car up and take the wheel off

2. unbolt the bolts on the back of the caliper and slide the caliper cover upwards (might take abit of effort depending on how worn your rotors are)

3. unbolt the bolts that are holding the caliper to the hub assembly

4. take off the rotor (might need to hit it with a rubber mallet)

5. use the G clapm to push the pistons back so you can fit the new pads in (more worn your pads are the further the pistons will come out)

6. install new rotors and pad in reverse order

thats just a rough guide to a brake change

if your in sydney i can def help you out or even install the new 1's for you

Posted

Thanks ilv

I'll give it a whirl as I'm not in Sydney.

So no tips or tricks to be aware of? Just pretty straight forward?

Posted

*** WARNING ***

When you push back the pistons, watch that the hydaulic oil does not come out of the master cylinder (under the bonnet (hood) - it has got to go somewhere!

So, I suggest a new "Step 0": Remove some fluid from the master cylinder. (then jack the car up, etc)

The fluid is VERY corrosive and can eat the paint and metal if it spills.

Otherwise, the job you are contemplating is straight forward and well in the reach of the average car enthusiast.

I note that ilv1004s has offered Sydney assistance - that's a very useful offer in case you need help by phone.

Posted

It does take a bit off muscle and effort to undo the rotors behind the rotor. ilv1004s and i have done this before including an IS350 brake upgrades and it is pretty self explanitory once you stick your head in there!!

As Ashpoint said. You do have to be carefull yes but, generally if your brake fluid reseviour isnt full before you start you shouldnt have much to worry about.

Have fun!!

Posted

It does take a bit off muscle and effort to undo the rotors behind the rotor. ilv1004s and i have done this before including an IS350 brake upgrades and it is pretty self explanitory once you stick your head in there!!

As Ashpoint said. You do have to be carefull yes but, generally if your brake fluid reseviour isnt full before you start you shouldnt have much to worry about.

Have fun!!

Hi LEX51S

Not sure what you mean by "rotors behind the rotor", can you clarify??

I haven't pulled a wheel off yet to have a look. Waiting til I get a few hours up my sleeve.

Posted

Oops i meant behind the caliper if your gonna take them off to do pads. U will see.

Posted

Oops i meant behind the caliper if your gonna take them off to do pads. U will see.

Thanks

Makes more sense now :)

Posted

Oops i meant behind the caliper if your gonna take them off to do pads. U will see.

Thanks

Makes more sense now :)

Hi Bluey

Just wondering mate, where did you get the parts from. Just curious as I might need to do that in the next 12 months.

Thanks

Jeff

Posted

Did you get the oem rotors or dba? or something similar?

Posted

so how'd ya go mate

tackled it yet?

Should be this weekend

Did you get the oem rotors or dba? or something similar?

DBA rotors and Bendix CGT pads. Should get me less brake dust.

Posted

Hmm rough price? This is for your 250 brakes, you didnt/aren't upgrading to 350/BBK

Posted

so how'd ya go mate

tackled it yet?

Should be this weekend

Did you get the oem rotors or dba? or something similar?

DBA rotors and Bendix CGT pads. Should get me less brake dust.

I'm running DBA rotors and Bendix GCT combination too. 20K later no noise and much much less dust. Loving it :)

Posted

Hmm rough price? This is for your 250 brakes, you didnt/aren't upgrading to 350/BBK

Just over $300, and for the 250, no upgrade.

Posted

Got the job done this evening.

Took a while doing the first side just trying to work out what went where and how to get it all back together properly. As previously suggested, it's not difficult I just wanted to ensure attention to detail, and get it right.

Second side took about a quarter of the time.

Stuff to remember

1. 2 bolts at the back of caliper, top and bottom. Take some effort to loosen.

2. take the shims off the back of each pad. 2 shims on each pad and place on the new pads

3. take the spring off the end of the pad and put onto the new pad.

4. Compress the caliper piston. Very easy with the compressing tool. About $11

5. Use rubber mallet to loosen the rotor. Couple of brisk whacks will get the job done.

6. Re assemble

:P Very chuffed at my efforts this evening. Can relax and enjoy my weekend now. :P

Posted

Nice work. Good to hear it went well and no dramas.

Posted

yes well done and thanks for passing on any pointers

Posted

Thanks ironfist. Any change in stopping power or feel when you changed?

Like you I did it myself too. I would say there's slightly more initial bite but pedal feels the same.

The significant difference is the less dust generated on the wheels.

I think you'll enjoy it mate :)

Posted

Well done Bluey...

Did you happen to take pictures?

Posted

Sorry, no pictures.

Hands get far too dirty from the brake dust. But it was quite simple as long as you check how everything comes apart so you can reassemble

Posted

What do you guys think of this price? I got a quote from GoodYear Autocare to install Bendix CT brake pads for $170. (I'm not even sure how much the brake pads are on it's own). And I'm assuming $170 is per brake pad? so changing the front set would be $340.

Thinking about doing this to reduce the brake dust.

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