E910

Version 21 is the latest update that I'm aware of PN# 86271-76042 .There maybe an updated part number in the Lexus EPC but you would need to check with your local Lexus dealer.

Yes EBC RedStuff pads are ceramic http://ebcbrakes.co.nz/ProductOverview/RedStuffPads/tabid/1057/Default.aspx Good upgrade if you want to stop in a hurry. I'd recommend machining the rotors when installing new pads

Strange part numbers they use, JDM numbers are RH = 85214-53080 & LH = 85214-53090

This thread is still going?!! Anyone tried Mobil1 0W-40, Motul X-cess 5W-40 or Motul X-clean 5W-40 in their IS#50 yet? Motul have a new oil coming out in the Australasian market soon called Sport Ester 5W-40. http://www.opieoils.co.uk/pdfs/motul/MotulSport5W-40GB.pdf Ester is an amazing product, rather than me ramble on about it you can just read this link >> http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/esters-in-synthetic-lubricants/ I run Motul 300V in my 3SGE which is a full Ester oil, the car has never run so good. Only down side is it's a race oil so needs to be changed every 6K km. The PAO & Ester Motul Sport should be able to handle a few more km than 300V, say 10-15K. This will be a great oil for the Australian climate to use in the IS#50. I highly suggest you try some once it becomes available. https://www.motul.com/au/en/resellers Wind Chaser if your car is using Edge 5W30 then a cheap 10W40 isn't going to fare any better, see above my recommendations above or if you're really on a budget then Shell Helix 5W40 is then next best & very reasonably priced. Anything else is a waste of time IMO

I had RE001 on the rear of my Altezza. They're not a bad tyre, reasonable grip but still allow you to have a bit of fun with the TRC off. I replaced them with F1 Asymmetric 2 & they have phenomenal grip in both the wet & dry. Even in the wet it struggles to break traction. I highly recommend them

On badly carboned up engiens you may need to use a second bottle of genuine Toyota D4 injector cleaner (in another full tank). No need to change the oil after using the injector cleaner only after using upper cylinder & throttle body cleaner. I would avoid using throttle body cleaner on a running engine, best to remove the throttle body to clean it. Heard a few horry stories from people using it especially on older/high mileage cars. You guys really should be running a mid saps oil, ACEA C3 specd with your direct injection motors. It's specifily designed to help reduce carbon build up.

Damn that's a lot. I can do genuine shocks for NZ$200 each + freight

To help reduce this carbon build up in direct injection motors I recommend you use a low ash oil, i.e one with an C3 specificastion. Thats basically what the BMW & VW specifications I mentioned earlier are based on. Toyota/Lexus also do an injector cleaner specifically designed for their direct injection engines. Part number is 08813-00830. I'd recommend using a bottle at least once a year

What oil are they currently using in it? Brand, specs etc? These engine are very particular about oil, especially once they've got a few KM under their belt. I would not use 10W40. A thick 5W30 or 10W30 synthetic would be my first choice. Look for 30 weight that meets VW 502/505 or VW 504/507 failing that BMW LL-01 specifications. If you must use a 40 weight then I look at 5W40 or 0W40 that meets BMW LL-01 spec. Mobil1 & Shell Helux Ultra should be the easiest to find. Ideally you should track down some Motul 8100 X-clean. I think Autobarn sell it. Don't waste you money on semi synthetic or inferior brands like Penrite, Nulon, Valvoline, Castrol etc

+1 EBC Redstuff

Mobil1 is good but Motul is better again (speaking from personal experience). All the Motul products you mentioned are designed to meet different specifications whether they be manufactures specs, ACEA or ILSAC. Look at the performance standard for each range & you'll see they're all different. C3, C1 A5/B5 etc. They're to to with ash content, fuel economy, HTHS etc. Have a read to see what they all mean http://www.infineum.com/Documents/ACEA/ACEA%202012%20oil%20sequences.pdf & http://www.infineum.com/Pages/ACEAandAPITables.aspx I can vouch for the X-clean 5W-30 being a very good oil, we use it in a lot of Toyota/Lexus direct injection motors here. That would probably be my choice although the Eco-nergy looks interesting but probably a bit on the thin side I run 300V 5W30 in my own car but that's another story...

Looks good! Nice choice of tyre too. I don't rate Bridgestone anymore, there's far better tyres on the market & for less money. I considered PS3 for the rear of mine but went with F1 Asy2 instead. Got F1 Asy1 on the front so wanted matching. Paid about the same as RE002 go for as well.

Have you got factory fog lamps? You could just replace the halogen HB4 bulbs with LED ones or replace them with something like this http://www.narva.com.au/products/detail/9-33v-led-daytime-running-lamp-kit-with-adjustable-bracket14753/noheaders/1/?KeepThis=true&TB_iframe=true&height=500&width=720&modal=true&parent=driving-fog-lamps-popup-layout You could put them on a separate switch/circuit if you didn't want your tail lamps & dash bulbs illuminated. I've also seen people insert LEDs into the factory spot lamp blanks, I can't find any pictures though. Saw it on a forum a while ago

Specialist tools? A spanner to undo the drain plug? They only change about 3.5-4L but that is enough to refresh the additive pack in the oil & protect your transmission for another 90K

Toyota make a specific injector cleaner for their direct injection engines. Part number is 08813-00830. Run a bottle through every service if you're concerned (I use it in my Altezza 3SGE & it works very well). Also running the engine on 98 octane helps reduce carbon build up