E910

If you're using decent oil then you're just wasting your money dropping it every 5K. The average synthetic like Castrol Edge 5w-30 will be good for at least 10K-15K. If you're that concerned get a UOA (used oil analysis) done to see how well it's holding up.

A 30K service is only oil, filter & brake fluid change. Over here in NZ that be about $300-$350 max at Lexus service agent. Whats the labour rate over there?? As long as your local mechaninc is using genuine parts & oil that meets factory specs or better (i.e. synthetic 5w-30) then there should be no reason it would effect your warranty. Having your car serviced at the agents does have it's advantages though. Campaign, tsb & warranty issues will be sorted. PCM updates done. Someone working on your car that is factory trained & very familair with the vehicle etc etc.

I doubt this sort of wear is due to the age. I'm guessing thats just a nice way of the dealer saying you've pucked your suspension on a pot hole or the likes. Lower ball joints are usually the first thing to wear out

Are you sure? Coils going are pretty common on these things. Try some genuine Toyota injector cleaner (08813-00830) with a tank of 98 if you still think it's an injector issue.

Make 10 stops from 50-60 km/h down to about 15 km/h using moderate braking pressure and allowing approximately 30 seconds between stops for cooling. Do not drag your pads during these stops. After the 10th stop, allow 15 minutes for your braking system to cool down. This is usually enough for standard pads, if you want to go further then make another 5 consecutive stops from 80 km/h down to 15 km/h. After the 5th stop, allow your braking system to cool before driving again. Avoid heavy braking during the first 500km as well.

That's not how you bed in new pads

Stick with an off the shelf axle back muffler set up specifically designed for the 250. Badly designed universal set ups can drone & effect power.

That thing is so cool! Found another vid of it, turn the sound up & enjoy

If you look at the service schedule it recommends changing the fluid (WS) every 90K. Yes you don't change all of it but it does help by replenishing additives in the oil that will have broken down over that time. The synthetic oil its self technically doesn't break down, just the additive pack.

It's a bit more complicated than that unfortunately. The number on the front of the bottle only tells half the story. You need to look at the full specs like the Kinematic Viscosity & High Temp/High Shear Viscosity. Basically you can get thick & thin 5w-30 etc. If you're running 5w-30 & it's not using any oil then I'd keep using it. I'm running 0w-30 in both my cars, one has done 134K & the other 156K. Neither use a drop between 10K services. Which Royal Purple are you running, standard or HPS?

Yep, they're usally just 3M tapped on. Got a set on my Altezza

What made you try Q8 oil? What grade did you use? I assume 5w-30. It looks alright but nothing outstanding in their line up.

Not saying semi syn is bad just 10w-40. It's full of VI additives which can break down easly when the motor is hot thus reducing protection & turning to sludge. Not saying this will happen in a car that is driven under normal conditions but it can. I'd rather avoid the chance of it happening altogether by running a grade that will hold together when the going gets tough. 5w-30 is the perfect all round oil for NSW & VIC, especially fully synthetic. Give it a try next service iseekool & tell me if you don't think your engine runs smoother & is more responsive. kamanli, I wouldn't bother with engine flush, just drop the oil when it's hot so it runs out easier. Stick with a genuine toyota/denso filter or if you must go after market then try track down WIX brand & yes you have to change them every service. The Havoline 5w-30 C3 you got is a good choice. (I just chose those 3 out of what was available on the supercheap site.) I use 0w-30 in my 3SGE but that still quiet hard to find downunder. It's pretty much standard use for the yanks. A lot of them even use 0w-20 & 5w-20 but I wont confuse you with that just yet.

Personally I'd go with a good quality 5w-30 like Mobil1, Shell Helix Ultra or Castrol Edge (in that order). The Nulon long life looks alright to with a VI of 169. Stay away from 10w-40 semi syn.

You might gain a couple of HP & better throttle response. I can get my hands on TRD panel filters if you're interested. See my signature for details

Have they had a look at the VVT solenoid?

Couple of guys who lurk on the Altezza forums have done the IS>RS conversion. Will you be retaining the auto or going manual?

Not sure about how you'll get on with sat nav + aftermarket headunit but you'll need one of these if you want to keep the amp http://www.metraonline.com/part/TYTO-01

There's two different disc, one for Lexus & one for Toyota. Both are V.6 They retail for over $500 so you'd be better of with a Garmin but then I can't see the point of a GPS in NZ. It's to small to need one IMO.

There must be a band expander installed for you to pick up local radio as Japan uses a different frequency range to us. Disconnecting the power shouldn't effect it. Check it isn't damaged & still has power going to it. As for the Japanese to English thing the only way around that it to swap everything out for AUDM gear.

You've most probably damaged the ECU. Are any fault codes coming up? I'd be looking for a looking for cheap 2nd hand ECU if I was you, but maybe get it checked out by Lexus first.

We had issues with factory pads in Territory's when I was at Ford, we tried everything from chamfering them to trying all sort of aftermarket brands that FNZ recommended. It wasn't until I stumbled upon the Bendix GCT Stealth range that we found a fix. Looks like they do them for the IS250 as well >> http://bendix.com.au/catalogue?manufacturer=lexus&model=IS250&variant=&oepart=∂= << Could be a cheap fix for your problem. Not that you should have to pay, it should be a warranty issue if you ask me.

That's not a bad price for a genuine sensor TBH. When you fit a genuine part you know its right & wont cause any issues. If you stick to OEM brands like NTK & Bosch then you shouldn't have any problems either but getting the correct part can be the biggest issue when going aftermarket.

Learn how to drive :P Once you go RWD you'll never go back. It's a pure driving experience