Peterkay

Hahahaha i knew this would happen. In the US RR Racing motor sports have done this & found there to be a 6hp difference in favour of headers. They have a race car that they have just simply de-catted & left the stock headers on there. So for those that are looking to save dollars why not. I am sure that after your headers you have fancy cats also

Cut a long story short, no. Had the time to do it last xmas but was lazy, holiday mode. So we cut off the flanges from the stock headers & fitted 3 inch flanges.It was an easy mod with very good gains considering how cheap it was, only $260.00 with an exhaust shop we use. I am still thinking to do it, it is just a matter of making the time to do it & not tying up a hoist in our workshop for too long. The next best thing was porting out the inlet manifold. There were very good gains there, done it 4 weeks ago. This is what we did, same as this link below. We gave the inlet manifold to a reconditioner that we use & he did his work. The trick to our engines is flow flow flow. http://www.lexusfforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2219

There is a cheaper way to this madness. Remove the stock headers, cut off the stock cat/converters below the primary oxygen sensor & weld new 200 cell high flow stainless cats. Power difference of around 5kws less at the wheels as compared to headers ( proven in the U.S ) . To drop the sub frame and do this would take around 3 hours. Sikky headers have released a video showing how to install their headers, it is on the ISF usa forum. The work is easier than people think. High flow stainless cats around $180-200 each. But if you are to do this fit a cat back system to reap the benefits. Otherwise cut the flanges off the stock headers & replace them with 3 inch flanges as compared to 2 inch. There is a really good gain just from doing that. ( 13kws atw )

As 2bling says, how long you`ve had the current one, you must decide how long you are going to keep it if you decide to go that way. And then if you do keep the older one and spend more mouli on it you will need to keep it longer to reep the investment you have spent to get it where you want it. Lots of pros & cons. you do not want to look at it and think........ i wish i had a newer model. Cross your T`s and dot the I`s. As for the exhaust, if you have the old system you only need to modify the flange on the front of the mid section to fit to the headers on the older car. Then when ready do the header flange mod on the newer car and fit your system to it, easy done. You will lose the tune, oh well. keep the intake. Hope this helps to fry your brain more

As for me personally i would do it. When i went through the rim roll just over a year ago i looked at models like yours and went for the 13 model , more so because it is newer & all the little updates it has over the older models. Your exhaust, intake & ECU tune they can all be fitted to the next car you get. As for the flange mod you will have to do it again. My mod was cheap as back then only cost me $240.00, that was the easiest mod spent for a quick 15kw gain. For memory also the dark grey is not available in the 13 model, just the Mercury Grey and the paint on the 13/14 cars is better again. In regards to your bilsteins i drove a few 09 cars and the set up was rock hard so the 13 is a nicer ride with the Sachs struts. Just be sure to find one with much less ks than yours so it feels newer and is worth the swap. I have been recently keeping an eye on the market for a friend who wants a 13 plated one and they are a bit scarce, more so with low ks. Cheers Peter.K

Hey check this out http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/mobil_au/

Hey check this place out as they have nearly all the brands to choose from. And Aussie site too ( Brisbane ) http://brakesdirect.com.au/aus/catalogsearch/result/?q=vehicle&make=Lexus&model=IS&generation=XE20%2B%282005-2013%29&submodel=IS%20F Check out the QFM range DB1845QFM/HPX low dust, quite & heat range up to 550c. You can call QFM also as they are on the Gold Coast. I`m nearly due for fronts on mine so I`ll more than likely go with QFM/HPX and if my rotors can not be scimmed and are screwed will go for DBA42759S | DBA 4000 Series T3 Slotted Brake Rotor

Way to go HOONAGAIN

The latter of the 2 part numbers is specified for the CVT transmissions so why they would price you that one is strange.......maybe someone got their wires crossed ??? As for the trans service kit it is only the pan gasket & filter that is required if you choose to go that way , depends on km done. Otherwise drain plug removed & fluid re-filled, preferably cold, aprox 3.5ltrs

Ha too funny Ebay / Sydney City Parts sell that container for $69.95. The Penrite equivalent http://www.penriteoil.com.au/products.php?id_categ=3&id_products=709 sold at Repco for $51.00. Boys it does not harm to replace the the trans oil every service or 2nd service. Cleaner the oil the better. I serviced mine not long ago ( 40,000km service ) and replaced the trans fluid. Will do next service as well. We service a lot of Toyota`s here that use the WS fluid and and most places neglect to change the fluid. Seen various Aurions, Klugers, Hi Lux & so on with 40-60,000km where the fluid is already dark. So for me the cleaner the better. DFH6B-11A NGK spark plug $38.00 each WACF0040 Wesfill cabin filter $24.00 each

2blig I have had my xforce cat back system ( non varex ) on for nearly a year now & quality is very good, so i think anyway. 5 year warranty also. If you are not sure ring Xforce head office in Sydney & speak to Dean there. Ask him all the questions you like & as for the sound Also no check lights on & we disconnected the battery before we fitted it aslo to be safe & to also help the ECU to do a re-learn. Finally, NO DRONE.

Also check out this chart http://www.etyrestore.com.au/tyre_calculator.php If you compare our original size tyres it gives you an insight on what tyres are suitable without throwing the speed out too far. In QLD you are allowed 15mm under or over the oem spec tyres overall diameter. Hope this helps

BLK Hey i know what you are saying re the STI. But the MPS is a much better car as a daily driver & MUCH more luxurious. The Subi was a fkn pain in the arse as everyone wanted to race & in the end it was like fark offff. With the MPS no one had a clue, until they saw it move. It was a much better choice for us back then family wise. Suitability wise with yours 265.35.19 is better. Although others will differ. Check out this http://www.federaltyres.com/index.php/tyres/ultra-high-performance/595rpm.html I might fit these next time as the wholesaler we use sells Federal. I had/have Formoza FD2 on the MPS now & they are great grip & wear, dry & wet. It currently sits on CX9 20`s and has done for the last 5 years & the Feds are great.

BLK I have had the car a year exact this month & the last owner fitted them 6 months prior to me getting it. i have done around 8,000km. Tyre wear is still quite good & i am thinking i will sneak 20,000km out of them. Just got to keep the right foot a little lighter, hahaha. I even spent an hour & half on QLD raceway at one of the meets there this year & plan to do another one soon. So with that i quite like them. I run 40psi all round also. As with traction loss, well our cars do put power to the rear quite easily I know what you are saying though, as i have had 02 WRX, 04 STI & 2007 6 MPS. I found the MPS 200kwatw the best of the bunch. We still have it now as it belongs to my son, lol.

Hey I have 265.35.19 on the rear of mine. Kumho Ecsta. Been on the car for just over a year. No prob at all. Rear guards untouched. Thinking 275.30.19 next. Fronts are 245.40.19.

Sparky Could not agree with you more . I checked this place out like 6 months ago when i was looking around at prices & so on. Some not to bad bits & pieces there but some of their prices are like fire, ouch ! ! ! This is another mob http://vipautosalon.com/store/index.php/toms-is-f-carbon-fiber-rear-diffuser And another http://lexusboutique.net/?mode=grp&gid=40592

Hey guy,s Check out this place in the U.S http://www.japanpartsmaster.com/IS_F_s/1850.htm

Black ISF, No power loss at all. Any time you fit new larger exhaust work in front of an o2 sensor it will generally throw the engine light on. The ECU is tuned to the stock exhaust. Usually if you disconnect the battery before the work is carried out the ECU on the start up will perform a re learn & thus no fault light. Though this is not the case on all vehicles. Same goes when fitting cold air intakes, disconnect the battery before the work. The idea of the fitting ( picture which you posted ) is to pull the o2 back a little so the ECU will not feel the new extra exhaust flow. When i fitted my system i disconnected the battery. Same when i fitted the cold air intake. As for the price of those fittings, wow that is cheap. I just looked on the Xforce website & the are 50 odd dollars. As you see in the picture it pulls the sensor out roughly 10mm. Hope this helps Peter.K

Black ISF For memory the Xforce part # was BNG08. They fit in the original sensor spot, but the sensor then does not feel the full flow of the new system as such. As for the VCS light that should not happen. Scan the ECU to see what error code comes up. I`ve had my system on since Dec last year & never had this at all. You may have another issue so safer to just get it checked.

Better still, cut the flanges off the primary cats, cut out the honey comb & weld some new 100cell full stainless high flow cats. Of course a little bit of pipe work will be required. Xforce then sell o2 sensor spacers to fool the ECU, thus no check light fault. Very easy power upgrade.

Hey good question. As i am at home now not 100% sure as the paper work is at my workshop. I am the one that made Ryco themselves aware of the wrong filter listing weeks ago and went through the rimroll to work out which one was required. Turns out the correct one listed fits numerous Toyota V8`s. The difference between the 2 filters is only the overall length. R2651p is the correct one for memory as it was the longer of the 2 part numbers.

Go to Isf Exhaust on this forum. Plenty of us there with different views & so on. I have it & personally think it is fkn awesome. If in doubt speak to Dean at the xforce head office in Sydney. Nice fella to chat to. Took me an hour and a half to fit. Although i took my time and crossed our t`s and dotted the i`s. Better still 5 year warranty ! ! !

Ha too funny. Sometimes us tradies like to help too much 😜😜😜 Enjoy your beast Cheers.

Ok now that is different. Being that you just had it serviced go back to that dealership & get a Ltr of the oil they used in your car when they did it. Most oil brands do NOT recommend mixing oils as they all have their own blends & additives. If you were topping up before a service different again. But 2k from last service, get what they used. Toyota packaged oil is not necessarily genuine oil, as oil companies design oils to meet the requirements & specs that Vehicle Manufactures have asked for. Some use Castrol, some Mobil, some Shell & Valvoline and so on. Generally it is whoever gives them the best deal. Guess 32 years in this trade teaches you a little.

2bling Yes some of us do, hahaha. I am about to use Dexos2 full synthetic 5W30. I purchase this oil through GMH, 20Ltr. The oil is actually FUCHS oil is is long life spec. The thing is our cars take nearly 10Ltrs. Will also replace my transmission fluid with Penrite ATFLV fluid as my car now has 38k on the clock. Depending on where you are ring the nearest GMH dealership to yourself & get put through to spare parts & ask for it. Regards Peter.K