bazzle

Just like WATO I have done similar in the past on VW R32 and Audi S3. Seemed to do no harm and certainly gave an effect of better running even if not much was done, didnt take any before or after shots 😃 BTW Subaru intake cleaner is seafoam in a diff can. I have done it both ways. 1. In a vac line 2. In the intake.

Sorry no reply 😪 Im guessing Subaru

Bugger 😠 Ill try and ask the other poster where he got the file from.

Thats real good of you 😄 Will watch with hope

Try this https://mega.nz/#!zmRQ3DrI!_32i7OIC7sifYSQX7Q2zHl_HOfWGyci3SF0saT2xUl8 They are having issues atm Baz

Im wondering if its for a Subaru. One version is the same but not all?

Tried it on an -R Not working for me will try and find an +R later

Might have some luck here http://fixmygps.info/forum/showthread.php?tid=5015&page=4 Post #55 Downloading tonight for a play over the weekend. If anyone else has a go please post up. Baz

if... ..... .........you're worried re legalities also check if you can go more than 1" bigger in diameter in your state. You may also get a harsher ride and may also get more inner wear due to shorter and stiffer sidewall not absorbing camber changes.

No but I did see a post on this forum (USA area) where someone used CF wrap and it looked OK

Also ISF section in this site https://au.lexusownersclub.com/forums/forum/37-lexus-is-f-club/

Probably. You need to list the $300 + worth of bits but at dealer prices would be pads, oil etc.

Would'nt you need to run it for a week or so for computer to properly adjust to get max advantage. Toyota engines are know to take up to a months driving to get full benefits from changes (workshop chatter from my customers)

@18ADF Please Hi. Please educate us more on your findings.

Could you not use E10 undiluted?

Ive never changed a crush washer on about 20 vehicles. Doesn't mean you shouldn't but they are not normally a problem. Never had a leak or nor do I over tighten. Years ago when they were copper we used to hit them with a flame to re anneal.

Dunno..your maths is prob better than mine😕

Ive been running on 98 for the last year or so. Car goes well and returns average commuting inc freeway, of 10.5 l/100ks Been trying E10 for the last 5 tanks. (min 95) 23c a litre cheaper, $10 a fill approx less. Still runs the same, actually feels to have more mid range torque. Economy of 12 l/100ks same commuting. Injector rattle under low speed accel is also a bit quieter. Savings of about $7 a fill for same /same 🚗

Info only http://lexus-europe.epc-data.com/is_f/use20l/2913/body/8202/82817C/

re cabin filter IMPORTANT: Please ensure that the vehicle is in recirculate mode. If not, you will force open the computer controlled damper and damage the HVAC system.

Its up to you BUT ensure you follow the correc procedure to change the cabin filter or you will stuff up the recirc switch.

Was a spare F Sport wheel I had in good condition. I just did it as a trial. Took about 2 hours with wheel stripped back. Not a perfect job from my end but would turn out better next time or if I re did it. One of those things where you learn a lot 1st time making it easier 2nd time .

Just fitted one of these to try it out on my IS. Came out pretty good, similar to pic in add. I asked for grey thread. https://www.ebay.com/itm/DIY-Hand-stitched-Black-Leather-Steering-Wheel-Cover-for-Lexus-IS250-IS300-IS350/122368545860?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648

I have found if I close and reopen door it stops. Allows some peace when working with door open.

As I said. Take your own oil. Get it at a Repco sale. Dealer wont care if you supply oil as long as it meets spec. Cost me $726 (90k service) Only parts I paid for were filter(s), brake fluid and key battery.