_ISF

Yep either that or buy a 6L and a 1L

The oil campaign they have initiated is with Castrol, Penrite, Gulf Western and Nulon. So Mobil 1 is not part of the sale. Personally i wouldn't touch Gulf Western but the other 3 brands are perfectly fine. I just like Penrite and Nulon as they are Aussie companies, support motorsport, are well priced and are good quality full synthetic oils.

Supercheap Auto have recently started a huge oil campaign along with the Mighty Car Mods team, and all their oils are on sale. For example, the Penrite 5w-40 HPR5 i use in my ISF is currently on sale for $48.99 for a 5L bottle (usually its $62).

Yes and yes. That's all you need. You can see the new o ring in the photo. You may also need an oil filter canister tool to remove the old filter. These can be purchased or from Supercheap (i got mind from Supercheap for $15 (Ryco make them).

Nothing wrong with Ryco or K&N etc, but you can buy genuine Toyota/Lexus oil filters for around $25 so id just get genuine.

She's a beauty mate. Looks like i will have to get my wife to look this guy up on Instagram for me.

Back to the dyno again this week to see where i am at now after doing the following since the last dyno run: - header flanges opened up from 2" to 2.5" to increase flow - 200 cel hi-flow metallic cats welded in to the xforce front pipe - New larger and chambered stainless steel rear mufflers installed to replace the xforce mufflers (new mufflers are quieter but may also be a bit more restrictive) The car certainly feels a bit stronger up top with the header flange mod so it will be interesting to see what that actually translates to on the dyno. Im hoping for an extra 5-10kw which would be around 270-275kw.

The fact that it is rarely driven does not automatically place the car into "severe use" category. What does, are frequent short drives that most of us do every day where the engine doesn't really get to warm up properly (or for long). I know that both Pentire and Nulon sell their oils in 10L containers - thats how i but my Penrite to service my ISF. The ISF uses around 9.3L so that leaves me just a wee bit left over. I just bought some a few weeks ago (on sale at Supercheap) for $90 for the 10L...bargain. And no you cannot do any harm to an engine from too frequent oil changes - the more the merrier basically.....but in saying that, any more often than 6 month intervals for a normal street driven car is really just throwing your money down the drain.

Fairly certain its only 1x plug on the IS-F, but the IS250/IS350 have 2x plugs because they have indicators in the mirrors too. I have a mirror assembly at home from as IS250/350 so i can check after i finish work and let you know.

Just a 5w-30 or a 5w-40 oil that's full synthetic will do (around $60-70 for a good brand). These engines do not require any fancy grades/specs of oils (unlike BMW/Audi/VW etc) so you can't really go wrong. Personally i use Penrite HPR5 5w-40 in my IS-F. This is readily available at Repco/Supercheap Auto etc, is Australian made and good quality synthetic oil.

Im confused - you said it was your rear bumper which has been repainted but you show a photo of the front bumper? My brother works at the Lexus Newcastle dealership and they send cars to 2x different panel shops depending on the work required. The easy stuff goes to one place, and all the difficult colours and repairs go to another. I will send you a PM with the name of the place - i have seen their work first hand and its amazing (im an ex car detailer and have a very good eye for detail). I am having my own car repaired there soon (scratch on tailgate). If you are willing to drive your car to Newcastle and leave it with this repairer i would certainly recommend them. Otherwise, im sure you can find similar good repairers in Sydney.

Ever seen the metallic orange that Ford used on Falcon XR6/XR8's and some Territories in the mid 2000's. Each panel looks different - absolutely woeful. Check this out: https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/bayswater/cars-vans-utes/2004-ford-falcon-ba-xr6-auto-sedan-custom-paint-/1195583482

Is it the metallic white colour - that's a really hard colour to match well. Hard to recommend a body shop when we don't know which city you live in.

Not cheap - just like anything from USA. Their freight costs are ridiculous. Unless you go custom, i dont think you have any other choices for the IS250 and IS350. Cheapest would likely be to bolt in an Torsen LSD from a 2010 onwards IS-F. I know some IS-F guys in USA put in a IS350 diff to give better drive ratios for 1/4 mile drag racing so they must be interchangeable.

Hey mate - i cant help you with the diff question, but regarding extractors i believe the only options for a off-the-shelf setup are PPE which you will need to source from USA: https://www.rr-racing.com/RR-Racing-PPE-Racing-Headers-Lexus-IS350-RC350-p/ppe935001-ss.htm

OK apologies in advance if this is a stupid question - but i haven't been able to find out this information on the Grom website or from Googling.....can you use the Grom vline v2 if you do not have an Android smartphone? If yes, then is there any functionality you lose on the Grom unit from having an iPhone rather than an Android phone? All the videos/reviews i have seen always have the unit working with an Android phone. Does the phone need to by physically plugged into a USB port to connect to the unit?

The amplifier is in the boot on the driver side so this may be the source of the noise.

I have the stock exhaust off my 2011 IS-F in my garage. Only done about 45,000km before i removed it. Im in Newcastle, but if you are willing to pay for a courier then perhaps we could work something out.

Yes i have read that thread of yours previously. My issue with the headers is that they are ludicrously expensive to buy, then its 6-8hrs labour to install (so im estimating around $4.5k in total for headers, shipping, import fees and fitting) which is an insane amount of money for 10-15kw ATW. I'd much rather put that towards a forced induction setup or just keep the money in my bank. And yes i know the stock headers leave a lot to be desired in terms of design and flow capability, but i think having the lower flanges opened up is a decent compromise between some increased performance and flow without breaking the bank. FYI my header flange mod cost me $500 and this was on the expensive side (around $150-200 higher than others have paid).

So 249kw before tune (Mods were: xforce exhaust, gutted primary cats, AFE drop in filter and HPS silicone intake pipe) So 265kw after tune (no changes to the car other than the RR tune....also same dyno and dyno operator). I will link up my dyno sheet, but its around 8-10kw all through the rev range, and then above 6,000rpm where the stock tune died right off, the RR Tune keeps making power until redline - so the majority of the gains are 6,000rpm and above. I am going to go back to the same dyno once again in the next month or so to check power gains after having my stock header flanges opened up from a tiny 2" to a more reasonable 2.5". The car feels like it has some extra get up so id like to see how much if any it has gained from doing this. When i go back to the dyno i will get him to re-print the dyno run so the scale is smaller and therefore easier to read and see gains. I will also get him to change the torque to "Derived Torque" which is much more realistic. The derived torque reading for the stock tune was 378nm - i expect this will equate to around 390-395nm with the RR Tune.

Have a look at this topic which was raised only a few days ago and is basically the same question. There are people who specialise in carbon buildup removal (either a chemical removal or they use an abrasive walnut shell blast to physically remove the build up) and given the IS250/350 engine and inlet manifold is pretty easy to work on, the cost of labour to remove/replace the inlet manifold etc should be pretty low. As an alternative, there are DIY sprays which you can buy for around $20-30 at Supercheap/Repco etc that will help to remove some of the buildup (they wont do the same as a proper clean but are better than nothing). Liquimoly make one that i have used quite a few times: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p-petrol-engine-intake-decarb---366g/348781.html

Just find a vacuum line on the inlet manifold and spray it in that way while the engine is running - its better than nothing. With my previous car (VW Golf R) i used to do this every 5,000km before an oil change to try and help keep carbon buildup to a minimum (#directinjectionlyfe)

A few years ago i changed the spark plugs on my uncles IS250. While i had the inlet manifold off i used the Liquimoly equivalent of SeaFoam to clean as much of the gunk off the inlet tracks and valves as i could. It did a very good job - certainly worth doing while the manifold was off.

You dont want to skimp out on a cheap timing belt - if the belt snaps or stretches you can ruin your engine very quickly. Stick with a kit containing either Dayco or Gates brand belts which are very good quality. You will probably find your current timing belt is a Dayco as they supply many parts for Toyota/Lexus. Timing belts themselves are quite cheap (<$100), the more expensive part is the tensioners etc that you need to replace at the same time (included in the kits) and the labour for a mechanic to do the work. Either of these 2x options will be good for your IS300. Note the Gates option includes a new bearing that the Dayco kit does not. Both kits are essentially identical otherwise and both kits include the cam/crank seals which is what is probably leaking on your car now. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TIMING-BELT-KIT-FOR-LEXUS-GS300-JZS160R-97-05-IS300-JCE10R-2JZ-GE-3-0L-DOHC/192325416683?hash=item2cc77cf6eb%3Ag%3AiCoAAOSwLhZbJbp~&amp;fits=Year%3A2001|Make%3ALexus|Model%3AIS|Plat_Gen%3AJCE10|Submodel%3AJCE10+Sedan+300|Variant%3ARWD+Petrol+3.0L+6cyl+157kW+2JZ-GE https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Dayco-Timing-Belt-Kit-For-Lexus-GS300-JZS160R-IS300-JCE10R-6cyl/232862663619?hash=item3637b243c3%3Ag%3AzL4AAOSwbsRbbvvF&amp;fits=Year%3A2001|Make%3ALexus|Model%3AIS|Plat_Gen%3AJCE10|Submodel%3AJCE10+Sedan+300|Variant%3ARWD+Petrol+3.0L+6cyl+157kW+2JZ-GE

Just wondering what oil people use in their IS-F (assuming some of you service the car yourself - even in between the dealer/mechanic log book services). I always service my car myself (just oil and filter change) at the 6 month point in between a yearly log book mechanic service, and i use Penrite HPR5 5w-40 https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-5-5w-40-full-synthetic and https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/penrite-hpr-5-engine-oil---5w-40-5-litre/14911.html Its a good quality synthetic oil that's Aussie made and wont break the bank. It exceeds the oil specification designated by Lexus for the 2URGSE engine and can be purchased from just about any Repco/Supercheap etc. What do you guys use?